Jøtul F45 v2 install

[VermontCrapstings]

I got the 6in DVL pipe to try and shorten the horizontal run. Unfortunately it is a little loose in the flue collar. Being shorter also pulls it upwards from the wall thimble slightly more. My plan is to get some 1/16th gasket tape to take care of the gap in the collar.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

I tried putting the insulation in the flue collar but it would not fit. I got 1/8 flat gasket as well as 1/16. It was just too tight and the DVL pipe displaced it every time I went to mate it up. I still had a small gap showing with a flashlight. My solution was to use a peen hammer to flare it out once I had the pipe seated within the collar. At the point that I could no longer see light penetration through the collar I closed it up and started the break in fires to see how it drafts. So far so good.

 

[begreen]

After the breakin, if the stove achieve good temperature and secondary combustion, then it should be good to go.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

After the breakin, if the stove achieve good temperature and secondary combustion, then it should be good to go.

Well, it seems to be functioning well. Good draft and the stove responds well to control inputs. I did the 3 break in burns and tonight I am doing a full fledged burn under less than optimal outside temps(50F) just to test the draft. I also have a key damper ready to install if required. The plan now is to have an insulated liner installed in the spring just for the sake of longevity even if it is operating well at the moment.

 

[Todd]

Should be interesting how she works with a full load with your setup. Even if it’s a little warm out it’s good to test and burn the stink off while you can still open windows.

Looks like temps will finally be dropping here the next few days. Lately I’ve been just burning a fire in the evening. Looks like I’ll be 24/7 with 12 hour reloads for at least the next week.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Should be interesting how she works with a full load with your setup. Even if it’s a little warm out it’s good to test and burn the stink off while you can still open windows.

Looks like temps will finally be dropping here the next few days. Lately I’ve been just burning a fire in the evening. Looks like I’ll be 24/7 with 12 hour reloads for at least the next week.

Yeah, I am worried with colder outdoor temps it will overdraft. I was surprised how quickly it heats up. I did a hot reload after the startup burn with larger kindling. I loaded 3 4-5in splits and it shot up to 800F on the center griddle within 15 minutes. The center griddle temp reads 100-150F hotter than the rest of the stove. I will definitely need to shut it down faster than I would have thought.

 

[Todd]

I’ve burned on a couple outdoor block chimneys like that years ago and found that they were mostly sluggish in the shoulder seasons but once it got cold and kept that chimney warm burning 24/7 they would draft pretty well.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

I’ve burned on a couple outdoor block chimneys like that years ago and found that they were mostly sluggish in the shoulder seasons but once it got cold and kept that chimney warm burning 24/7 they would draft pretty well.

When I had the Intrepid going the first season on a cold night it would draw so hard it made a strong WOOSH it was almost a rumble. Spooked me at first and thought it was a chimney fire. It was just the way the exhaust goes down and through the cat box. I did not have a cat installed at that time and I suspect the void just made the draw more pronounced.

 

[begreen]

When I had the Intrepid going the first season on a cold night it would draw so hard it made a strong WOOSH it was almost a rumble. Spooked me at first and thought it was a chimney fire. It was just the way the exhaust goes down and through the cat box. I did not have a cat installed at that time and I suspect the void just made the draw more pronounced.

That's known as the afterburner sound in the non-cat VCs and Dutchwests. The F45 will have none of that but will need the air turned down sooner. Packing the wood tighter will also help slow down the burn.

It will take a bunch of fires to learn the new stove's behavior and make changes in how you operate the stove. This is typical even for seasoned wood stove owners. Each stove and install has it's own personality. The fire looks great. You'll have a nice warm winter this year.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

The stove is running wonderfully. The draft is more than adequate and the F45 itself is much more controllable than the Intrepid. It responds immediately to any control input. I just need to learn when to turn it down. I would like to install an auber probe into the DVL. Any advice on that account would be welcome.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

On a secondary note. The dollay jack that I got was a lifesaver. Anyone that needs to move their stove by themselves should seriously consider it. I was able to move a 450lb stove with one hand.

 

[Todd]

That’s a slick looking Jack! An Auber probe would be a great tool to let you know what’s going on and when to turn your stove down. It may read a little high since you will have to install it close to the flue collar but it’s still worth the investment imo.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

That’s a slick looking Jack! An Auber probe would be a great tool to let you know what’s going on and when to turn your stove down. It may read a little high since you will have to install it close to the flue collar but it’s still worth the investment imo.

It is a relatively inexpensive motorcycle Jack I found on Amazon. I used the 2x4's from the stove shipping crate to keep from damaging the lower heat shield while lifting the stove. How should I go about drilling and installed the probe? Would you use any gasket cement? My concern would be only being able to apply it to the outer wall and no way to apply to the inner wall.

 

[begreen]

The stove is running wonderfully. The draft is more than adequate and the F45 itself is much more controllable than the Intrepid. It responds immediately to any control input. I just need to learn when to turn it down. I would like to install an auber probe into the DVL. Any advice on that account would be welcome.

View attachment 332304

That's a beautiful sight. Congratulations.

It is a relatively inexpensive motorcycle Jack I found on Amazon. I used the 2x4's from the stove shipping crate to keep from damaging the lower heat shield while lifting the stove. How should I go about drilling and installed the probe? Would you use any gasket cement? My concern would be only being able to apply it to the outer wall and no way to apply to the inner wall.

That was the right way to do it. It needs to be supporting the frame. On some stoves like our heavy Alderlea this would not be possible because the ashpan hangs down like a belly below the sides of the firebox.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

That's a beautiful sight. Congratulations.


That was the right way to do it. It needs to be supporting the frame. On some stoves like our heavy Alderlea this would not be possible because the ashpan hangs down like a belly below the sides of the firebox.

I'm sure you could rig blocks to rest on the edge of the frame just like you would lift a car via the frame on a garage lift. A little ingenuity goes a long way.

 

[Todd]

It is a relatively inexpensive motorcycle Jack I found on Amazon. I used the 2x4's from the stove shipping crate to keep from damaging the lower heat shield while lifting the stove. How should I go about drilling and installed the probe? Would you use any gasket cement? My concern would be only being able to apply it to the outer wall and no way to apply to the inner wall.

I would just use the same size drill bit as the probe. You shouldn’t need any cement unless the hole is oversized.

 

[Crab]

It is a relatively inexpensive motorcycle Jack I found on Amazon. I used the 2x4's from the stove shipping crate to keep from damaging the lower heat shield while lifting the stove. How should I go about drilling and installed the probe? Would you use any gasket cement? My concern would be only being able to apply it to the outer wall and no way to apply to the inner wall.

I installed an Auber probe into DVL. 1/8" hole thru both outer and inner walls. No cement, it is a relatively tight fit. A sheet metal screw holds it on the outerwall. Attached are pics of my hearth and one of the probes attachment.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Just a little update. I have been stepping up my load size. About a day ago I loaded up what I would consider a 5/6th load. I am still learning how to adjust air controls but I am very pleased that despite my ignorance or lack of attendance the stove responds immediately to changes in air control. I imagine it will take at least 2 burn seasons to have a full grasp of the stove. That is a very pleasant change to the Intrepid. Where if I let the stove go nuclear(which took but a moment of inatantivenes) no control input would bring it back into stable temps. I have not had to resort to secondary air blocks as others have. That may change as outside temps drop. It has been in the low to mid 30's. Later this week is projected to be 20F or below.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

All is well.. for the most part. I have noticed on larger loads reloading on a substantial coal bed even when I turn it down right away temps get to be 800+ at the center but in the corners of the top griddle it is 600-650. I walked away from the stove for no more than 5 minutes and the center was 1000F. I immediately turned it from 95% to full close and it dropped down to 800F. But the center is always 100-150F hotter than the edges of the griddle and about 200-250F lower than the sides. I know this is a steel core iron jacketed stove but is that center removable griddle steel or cast? I'm starting to think installing the damper/blocking the unregulated intake holes may be called for.

 

[Todd]

You beat my record! 😂 I think I hit 900+ center top. The top is cast iron. I have mine unbolted for easier maintenance.

I think I have my stove pretty fine tuned with blocking the boost air and about 25% of the secondary hole covered by a magnet. I rarely go above 700 STT.

 

[bigealta]

Blocking the boost air is easy enough. I'd do that to test it.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

You beat my record! 😂 I think I hit 900+ center top. The top is cast iron. I have mine unbolted for easier maintenance.

I think I have my stove pretty fine tuned with blocking the boost air and about 25% of the secondary hole covered by a magnet. I rarely go above 700 STT.

Do you have the 2 boost air holes in the front completely blocked?

 

[VermontCrapstings]

Blocking the boost air is easy enough. I'd do that to test it.

It looks like the boost air holes are just under the heatshield. Did you block from inside of the box or the bottom(outside)?

 

[bigealta]

It looks like the boost air holes are just under the heatshield. Did you block from inside of the box or the bottom(outside)?

I don't have that stove and i'd defer to Todd, but either a magnet on the outside or a bolt, which i'm not sure if it really matters for that to be inside or outside? Probably whatever is easier.

You could probably just drop a bolt in each hole at least for testing. Just a loose bolt is probably fine for a test.

 

[Todd]

Do you have the 2 boost air holes in the front completely blocked?

Yes