Well, I am having trouble finding a sweep or installer that services my area. I had one that did but had a bad experience. Canceled for a refund after he showed up with scrap liner from other jobs and tried to install it un insulated. I may take a crack at installation myself. I already have the stove in the basement on the pad I just need to get a liner installed. I was thinking about getting a Duraliner Rigid liner. They come in 6x48 sections. The exterior width is 6 5/8in. My clay liner is 7x7.25 interior so I am pretty sure it will fit down. The only issue I have is the T. The wall thimble is masonry and very tight. It is not perfectly round at about 6in. Could I connect the 6in rigid liner with an adapter to a 5in T?
Jøtul F45 v2 install
- Thread starter VermontCrapstings
- Start date
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EbS-P
Minister of Fire
It does look displaced. How does one remove the baffle?? Definitely something I’d prefer to learn on a clean stove!
If I am reading the manual correctly, remove the rear heatshield underneath are two 10mm bolts that secure the secondary air manifold.
It was separate from the baffle but the tension on the baffle holds it in place. I got it lined up. Still unable to find anyone that will install a liner. It looks like I will just have to wrestle it back into the clay chimney for this season and try to find someone next year.
So the sweep that did the cleaning this year did not have a staircat. I got this wheely jack to try to get the stove into place. It is already on the hearthpad but getting the flue collar into the thimble is like wrestling a hibernating bear. Wish me luck, hah .
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Well, the wheely dolly worked like a charm. Highly recommend for anyone moving a stove on a flatish surface. I could basically do it one handed. I am a little concerned about the level of the connector though.. the hearthpad may have been a little too high afterall. What do you guys think? Its 12in to the wall.
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I'm currently using a 6DVL-12ADJ would switching to 6DVL-6ADJ to decrease the length of the slope help? 22ft chimney so it drafts pretty well. I'm not sure why it is sloping down, I had the base of the pad measured 25 7/8in to the CL of the thimble...
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It is. Just incase I needed to disconnect it and make adjustments. It is lowered though.
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My current thought is to use the shorter 6in connecting pipe with a Selkirk 256240 Double Walled Steel Chimney Pipe Adapter that will give me roughly 8 inches from the wall to meet clearance as well as give better pentration into the flue collar. Then use the levelers to raise the front of the stove a smidgen to bring the slope further down. Sound plan?
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
A full bubble over 1 foot is what 1/4 to 3/8”? I’d just see how it does. If it was a full bubble for a long run I’d feel differently.
Well, I have not fired it yet. It's still a little warm in Eastern TN to letter rip. I know it has a strong draft from the previous stove I had hooked up. That was a VC Intrepid Flexburn, I would think the F45 will breath much easier than that stove to boot.
So I tried using the leg levelers in the front of the stove to compensate for the downward slope of the rear vent. Visually it helped but by the bubble it was not much of a change.
![[Hearth.com] Jøtul F45 v2 install](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/331/331823-8b6cfdc9da42f059caac93c2d3343e32.jpg?hash=FkA9uvZWK- "[Hearth.com] Jøtul F45 v2 install")
![[Hearth.com] Jøtul F45 v2 install](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/331/331825-1199a3f64dbbedcd7cba12cd968b4cdd.jpg?hash=dKSgEGSo4C "[Hearth.com] Jøtul F45 v2 install")
Done. I'm waiting for a night chill enough. I still have not done the break in fires and I figure I will need an especially low outdoor temp since those will be smaller less established fires. Overnight temps here are still in the high 40s after 70s during the day.
perhsps you have taken care of this but that deflector piece hangs from the 2 studs. Mine was off the studs after I got the f45 home. As I didn't take the top off, I didn't notice it until I heard some clanging. After I installed it on the studs it drafted way better of course.
Good call. I just re-aligned it but did not position it on top of those. After referencing the manual I see it mentioned.
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Interesting. My V1 does not have chapter 7.5 for secondary air chamber maintenance. The V1 does not have turbulators. I've never taken the top off. Anyway after a couple break-in burns years ago I started getting a loud singular "bang" . Looked in the firebox to see if the manifold was loose, found that the deflector had come loose and was blocking the exhaust flow. Hanging it properly increased the draft substantially and no more bands. I top exit 18" up to a 90 then thru a 16" thimble/snout and into a 20' heavy flex chimney liner. The draft is excellent. I do not have to keep the door open for startups. I do not block the secondary air nor the boost air ports(yet). I am burning very dry wood making control on the low end sometimes difficult... I wish you well with your setup. Crab
