Is 272xp enough saw for milling

[Diabel]

Cylinder looks ok, few tiny marks. But maybe that is not ok. Not sure if you can see them in the pics. J can take more pics

 

[Diabel]

Pull muffler look for scoring

No start diagnosis.
Pull the plug. See if it’s rich or not. Then put the plug back and make sure plug wire and metal spring that secures it to the plug look ok and make sure wire is seated on the plug. I thought it was really easy to flood mine when I first got it. As it would not start then I realized that the choke fast idle run stop lever only goes to full choke with fast idle with the throttle wide open. Pull trigger then set lever. But you had yours starting fine up to the last try.

Screeching noise hmm. I don’t know what to say.

Take chain cover off and check clutch and break anything loose? Any thing self clearancing. Same with the recoil cover. I’d hate it to be main bearings. Hopefully it’s something simple.

Thank you.
I made the last mix maybe a tad richer worrying about the Chinese cylinder. The saw did not smoke at all

 

[Nealm66]

I’m wondering if the screeching is the clutch. Those internal clutch housings aren’t great for milling and I doubt they used the very best components. Maybe it got hot and fried the coil. Hopefully it’s minor

 

[Diabel]

I’m wondering if the screeching is the clutch. Those internal clutch housings aren’t great for milling and I doubt they used the very best components. Maybe it got hot and fried the coil. Hopefully it’s minor

Hm
If that is that is the case, do I replace it with stihl coil?
I will check the plug and on… first

 

[Nealm66]

Pull the plug and hold it with a pair of pliers against the jug and give it a pull and look for spark. I have no idea if a stihl coil would work but I’m sure there’s something about it online. If it does turn out to be the clutch, you will want to give it a rest as your milling every so often to cool. Probably a good idea anyways with any saw

 

[Nealm66]

Shouldn’t be burning a tank per cut on those size logs. How’s you’re chain cutting

 

[Diabel]

Shouldn’t be burning a tank per cut on those size logs. How’s you’re chain cutting

Hm
I have no comps. It takes bout 10 min to go through 12’ log (with shim stops).

 

[Diabel]

Maybe 15min

 

[Nealm66]

Ok, ya, that’s a long time. The comp chains won’t help. It’s the round file chain. Well, just have to back off and let it cool more often. Those size logs at 12’ take me about 3 -5 minutes or so with the 880. That’s with stopping and letting cool here and there. The clutch on my 385 is crap and I only use it for the cants and still have to stop and let it cool. My 395 did really good but the coil kept getting hot

 

[EbS-P]

Hm
I have no comps. It takes bout 10 min to go through 12’ log (with shim stops).

That’s about what it for me. It takes two tanks to get through an 11’ by 33” slab with a sharp chain in soft poplar.

 

[Diabel]

I think the cylinder looks fine. Will quickly look at the spark plug this morning before heading back to the city.

 

[Diabel]

I always thought that symptoms of coil issue is when a warm saw will not start. Cold saw will

 

[SpaceBus]

Full comp is fine. It takes me less than five minutes to run a pass on a log that size, but I have very, very sharp chains, like cut your fingers handling it sharp. I run full comp round ground chain because it's easier to sharpen and stays sharp longer in milling situations. After seeing the piston and cylinder I am leaning towards your ignition coil and clutch. Could also be flywheel contact with something, and that would make it hard to run.

 

[Diabel]

I will take the saw to town with me. Will look at the plug etc. How can I tell the ignition coil is bad?
I was not expecting much from this saw but 5h of run time…..

 

[Nealm66]

You can check the coil by pulling the plug, leaving it connected and hold it against your jug while you give the starter rope a pull and look for spark. Use pliers to hold the spark plug or it will zap the shiat out of you if things are good. Just trust me on this one

 

[Diabel]

You can check the coil by pulling the plug, leaving it connected and hold it against your jug while you give the starter rope a pull and look for spark. Use pliers to hold the spark plug or it will zap the shiat out of you if things are good. Just trust me on this one

That is what I thought. Just wanted to make sure.
Thanks

 

[Nealm66]

That’s about what it for me. It takes two tanks to get through an 11’ by 33” slab with a sharp chain in soft poplar

That’s about what it for me. It takes two tanks to get through an 11’ by 33” slab with a sharp chain in soft poplar.

How’s your saw doing? Hemlock around here is pretty soft and rips about the same as poplar without the smell ( ha ha, my attempt at a funny)

 

[SpaceBus]

I will take the saw to town with me. Will look at the plug etc. How can I tell the ignition coil is bad?
I was not expecting much from this saw but 5h of run time…..

When my coil went bad I could get barely an idle, and then just a few barks, then no start at all. It went bad milling, back when I hadn't figured out the handle issue. Running a dull chain will also make things hotter, which is hard on the coil. I narrowed down possible issues before trying to replace the coil, they seem to run around $100 or so. I've also heard the coils used the Chinese saws are terrible, and that's why I'm thinking yours bit the dust.















Pun intended!

 

[SpaceBus]

You can check the coil by pulling the plug, leaving it connected and hold it against your jug while you give the starter rope a pull and look for spark. Use pliers to hold the spark plug or it will zap the shiat out of you if things are good. Just trust me on this one

Mine still sparked when tested in this manner, but not strong enough to run the saw.

 

[Diabel]

If it is the coil. Then the ms660 will be a direct fit. Or do I get something from amazon for g660?

 

[SpaceBus]

If it is the coil. Then the ms660 will be a direct fit. Or do I get something from amazon for g660?

Get the Stihl coil, it's going to run a bit more, but worth it. I would also tune your saw to run a bit more rich and run 40:1 fuel mix. Heat kills those coils.

 

[Diabel]

Get the Stihl coil, it's going to run a bit more, but worth it. I would also tune your saw to run a bit more rich and run 40:1 fuel mix. Heat kills those coils.

I am running 40:1 but did not tune anything.

 

[EbS-P]

How’s your saw doing? Hemlock around here is pretty soft and rips about the same as poplar without the smell ( ha ha, my attempt at a funny)

Good. Last time out I turned it down from factory settings of 12800 to 12200. Cuts are getting wider now. Definitely narrowed my power band and stalled easier but I added a wench with paracord so the stretch helps keep feed rate more consistent and stalls less.
I realized I messed up my chain tensioner when I ran it out of travel.

Took muffler off to inspect and didn’t get bolts back in tight enough. one cut was enough to break the mounting hole off. Trigger is sticking some now. Unnerving on a 90cc saw.

Let’s see what else. Won’t oil my 36” hard nose. needs the high output oiler. Have not gone down that path yet. I don’t like the air cleaner. I’m sure I’ve sucked in some sawdust.

Its still running well. Starts every time and has never let me down.

 

[Nealm66]

Ya, even the stihl brand stock filters are pure crap. About the best a guy can do is a cone filter and those get in the way and couldn’t run them on the coast like forks Washington cus of the massive rain amounts. My chains feed pretty good but about 1 pass and I’m pushing on a decent size live edge like your cutting. Need to run down and get a roll of Oregon 404 and see how it does compared to stihl. Definitely narrower and softer chain. Always bored better than stihl so we’ll see. Wife will shoot me if I bring anymore boards into the garage ha ha so will have to see if the neighbors got anything

 

[EbS-P]

I am running 40:1 but did not tune anything.

I got an induction tach before I messed with the tuning. That was the only way I felt comfortable messing with it. My first try at tuning my Ryobi and without the tach and I just couldn’t tell how high was too high. Didn’t want to make a mistake on my milling saw.

I ran the first 20L at 25:1. I’m running 32:1 now. I personally don’t think that mix ratio is as important as heat management. I knew from the beginning that I was going to be running right at the maximum capability of the saw. I wanted to give it every chance I could to keep it alive.

It’s worked well. no real carbon build up. I think it’s harder to build up when it’s decently tuned and run at WOT for 10 minutes straight at a time.