Is 272xp enough saw for milling

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Well, you’re going to earn them for sure. Dang, I shouldn’t say anything but I probably would have used those limby cuts for the support beams and kept my clears for the rafters but that’s just me. I’d consider doing 2x8”’s if it’s much of a span . Be careful on those and take your time
The shed is to be 20x10. One 10x10 bay for wood, and one 10x10 for storage. 6posts.
 
Anything is possible but over time where you try to connect them will be your weak link. I would mill the 12’ 2x6 and then frame my overhang with some cheap 2x4’s
 
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Those logs on the hill, just 6 “ slab them and pull the slabs down and finish might be an option. They’ll still be good for support beams. Use the limbs and make a skid road and they should pull easy. I don’t know, just trying to help. Wish I was closer
 
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Those logs on the hill, just 6 “ slab them and pull the slabs down and finish might be an option. They’ll still be good for support beams. Use the limbs and make a skid road and they should pull easy. I don’t know, just trying to help. Wish I was closer
All good ideas.
 
Couple of more pics. 4 posts ready. I needed to slap together some shelves in the storage room, needed 4 9’ boards. One of the end pieces had enough meat on it to cut 4 1x3”s. I finished it on a table saw. I was expecting the table saw to struggle, it ripped through them with ease. Not the straightest but will do. As @Nealm66 mentioned sometime ago, ladder will sag in the middle if not braced making the initial cut bowed. Will try to brace correctly on my next log. Neighbor has fiberglass ladder which I might try. The 660 works much better with the 25” bar. I sharpen every 3/4 passes and it actually works well. Definitely not picnic but satisfying.

Just realized, my ladder section in 14’ and I need 15’ boards!! Crap.

[Hearth.com] Is 272xp enough saw for milling [Hearth.com] Is 272xp enough saw for milling
 
Couple of more pics. 4 posts ready. I needed to slap together some shelves in the storage room, needed 4 9’ boards. One of the end pieces had enough meat on it to cut 4 1x3”s. I finished it on a table saw. I was expecting the table saw to struggle, it ripped through them with ease. Not the straightest but will do. As @Nealm66 mentioned sometime ago, ladder will sag in the middle if not braced making the initial cut bowed. Will try to brace correctly on my next log. Neighbor has fiberglass ladder which I might try. The 660 works much better with the 25” bar. I sharpen every 3/4 passes and it actually works well. Definitely not picnic but satisfying.

Just realized, my ladder section in 14’ and I need 15’ boards!! Crap.

View attachment 282109 View attachment 282110
Lol, you’re definitely learning the same way I did. I try to do everything the hard way multiple times so that when I finally figure it out , even if it’s still hard, it seams easy ha ha!!
 
Those look pretty good. After you get the first slab off, tack some 1x3’s in the middle to support your ladder sag and slide it to stretch for longer lengths. You can do this also to make first cut that’s longer than your ladder
 
Just realized, my ladder section in 14’ and I need 15’ boards!! Crap.
Or that could be the solution. Shorter is lighter.
 
On the raw log, just working the saw back and forth to make a flat, little at a time till it takes the sag out but doesn’t lift it. Doesn’t have to be perfect as the next cut will true it up
 
You will see why I like to mill on some 4x4’s and why the metal studs work so nice( you just set them on the flat, don’t need supports and rungs don’t get in the way on raw log
 
Finally got back to milling today. Milled one log some time ago and then other priorities took over…..
Well, I set everything up nicely and timely! The first pass went very well and relatively quick. It still took a full talk of gas (which I am not sure that it is normal). Set up everything for the second pass……..and the saw just would not start. I pulled, I pulled until I smelt gas, flooded. When I pulled the sound coming from the saw was different “screechy” sounding. I let it sit fir 1h. Went back chocked it, pulled, it burped (as it should before switching to non choke), then no go pull, pull, pull and nothing until I smell gas.

Any ideas. I am not very inclined when it comes to small engines btw.
 
Pull the muffler off and take a look at the piston and cylinder. Post some pics if you can.
 
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Pull the muffler off and take a look at the piston and cylinder. Post some pics if you can.
Yeah, when pulling it does not sound normal.
I am hoping not to see what you are inclining. This would mean a 5h saw this 660 hahah!

Issue is I leave tomorrow morning for the city. Then as of next weekend I need to travel for a week. I wanted to get this second log done before the white stuff flies….
 
Finally got back to milling today. Milled one log some time ago and then other priorities took over…..
Well, I set everything up nicely and timely! The first pass went very well and relatively quick. It still took a full talk of gas (which I am not sure that it is normal). Set up everything for the second pass……..and the saw just would not start. I pulled, I pulled until I smelt gas, flooded. When I pulled the sound coming from the saw was different “screechy” sounding. I let it sit fir 1h. Went back chocked it, pulled, it burped (as it should before switching to non choke), then no go pull, pull, pull and nothing until I smell gas.

Any ideas. I am not very inclined when it comes to small engines btw.
Pull muffler look for scoring

No start diagnosis.
Pull the plug. See if it’s rich or not. Then put the plug back and make sure plug wire and metal spring that secures it to the plug look ok and make sure wire is seated on the plug. I thought it was really easy to flood mine when I first got it. As it would not start then I realized that the choke fast idle run stop lever only goes to full choke with fast idle with the throttle wide open. Pull trigger then set lever. But you had yours starting fine up to the last try.

Screeching noise hmm. I don’t know what to say.

Take chain cover off and check clutch and break anything loose? Any thing self clearancing. Same with the recoil cover. I’d hate it to be main bearings. Hopefully it’s something simple.
 
Screeching can also be poor spark timing, I think. The coil could have gotten too hot, it's a weak spot on every Husky saw I own.