Is 272xp enough saw for milling

[SpaceBus]

I got an induction tach before I messed with the tuning. That was the only way I felt comfortable messing with it. My first try at tuning my Ryobi and without the tach and I just couldn’t tell how high was too high. Didn’t want to make a mistake on my milling saw.

I ran the first 20L at 25:1. I’m running 32:1 now. I personally don’t think that mix ratio is as important as heat management. I knew from the beginning that I was going to be running right at the maximum capability of the saw. I wanted to give it every chance I could to keep it alive.

It’s worked well. no real carbon build up. I think it’s harder to build up when it’s decently tuned and run at WOT for 10 minutes straight at a time.

Ouch, can that hole be fixed? I broke off a few flywheel cover bolts because they kept backing out and I got a bit overzealous. I increased fuel mixture on my saw until it started "four stroking" after exiting the wood on a cut. I tried an induction tach, but mine was way too slow and I still killed a different saw tuning too lean with it. Tuning by ear seems to be working better for me, when usually it does not.

 

[EbS-P]

Ouch, can that hole be fixed? I broke off a few flywheel cover bolts because they kept backing out and I got a bit overzealous. I increased fuel mixture on my saw until it started "four stroking" after exiting the wood on a cut. I tried an induction tach, but mine was way too slow and I still killed a different saw tuning too lean with it. Tuning by ear seems to be working better for me, when usually it does not.

Someone could with a tig welder but the gasket was shot and I was missing an internal muffler bolt from the factory. New muffler gasket and bolts, 18$ to my door.

 

[SpaceBus]

Someone could with a tig welder but the gasket was shot and I was missing an internal muffler bolt from the factory. New muffler gasket and bolts, 18$ to my door.

Oh, I thought you broke the bolt hole in the cylinder head. That's not so bad.

 

[Diabel]

Merry Christmas everyone! Finally, today I had a day of complete f… around!! Took the 660 outside and pulled the rope three times, it burped and started as if nothing happened back in October! So is it the coil then? Cold runs, hot it does not. I remember back in oct when the saw was warm and i pulled the cord there was hardly any resistance. Today right away on the first pull you could feel the piston resisting. Coil looks like an easy replacement job.
I will also need help with saw tuning i think. I remember back in grade 4, my Mom signed me up for music lessons……after two sessions the music teacher said to me…..stick to sports boy…..

 

[SpaceBus]

Merry Christmas everyone! Finally, today I had a day of complete f… around!! Took the 660 outside and pulled the rope three times, it burped and started as if nothing happened back in October! So is it the coil then? Cold runs, hot it does not. I remember back in oct when the saw was warm and i pulled the cord there was hardly any resistance. Today right away on the first pull you could feel the piston resisting. Coil looks like an easy replacement job.
I will also need help with saw tuning i think. I remember back in grade 4, my Mom signed me up for music lessons……after two sessions the music teacher said to me…..stick to sports boy…..

I watched a few different videos to get an understanding of what to listen for. Likely the coil got coated in sawdust/oil and overheated, it happened to me with the original 395xp coil. When I'm milling for long periods I like to take my cordless compressor out and blow out the clutch cover after every log.

 

[Diabel]

I think before I get milling again in the spring, I will need to learn to tune the saw, sharpen the chains better (definitely not getting 3-5 min per pass) and take breaks while in the pass.

 

[Nealm66]

Merry Christmas! Don’t wait too long getting that hemlock milled.

 

[Diabel]

Merry Christmas! Don’t wait too long getting that hemlock milled.

Eastern hemlock seems to do well here in log form, off the ground.

 

[SpaceBus]

Eastern hemlock seems to do well here in log form, off the ground.

In the context of firewood, sure. I find older drier logs more difficult to mill than freshly cut trees.

 

[EbS-P]

I think before I get milling again in the spring, I will need to learn to tune the saw, sharpen the chains better (definitely not getting 3-5 min per pass) and take breaks while in the pass.

I got a tach to tune mine. From factory it was running 12800-900 RPM. I took it down to 12400. Doesn’t run very good now with 28” full skip in small diameter just keeps 4 stroking. Noticeable drop in power. But it may have been my larger width of cut.
I didn’t tune it in the milling cut but on the bench with a 36” bar. In the milling cut it cleans right up but now my power band is pretty narrow and it’s almost a fine line between in the wood and cutting nice and stalling. There are so many variables that it’s hard to compare one tune to another when a single cut is about 1/2 tank or more (two for me) and the chain sharpness and width of cut change with each pass.

I sharpened my 36” freehand. Not great results. File n joint sharpener on my 52” was ok. I don’t think I have gone back to my original 52” factory milling chain since I sharpened it. My factory out of the box archer full skip semi chisel off the roll worked but left a ruff cut and was grabby. File b joint it back to 10 10 degrees and a depth gauge across the rakers and it was very nice.
Hand crank winch is a game changer with stretchy paracord or a bungee. You can effortlessly keep the rpm more stable and cuts look nicer.

 

[Diabel]

I am determined and willing to learn. This shed will go up.

 

[Nealm66]

I fought that problem with my 395. Super bummer as it’s like the perfect saw for most of my milling but every time I turned around someone was walking up with questions and I’d fight getting it started so I sold it. The 385 doesn’t have the issue but the clutch gives up if I push it and don’t let it idle a few times during a cut. The 880 chugs along with no issues and I run it down to the 36” bar and use the 385 and the 372 for smaller. I wouldn’t think a stihl 66 would have the issue considering we used it in old growth fir up to 8-9’ and it chugged along ok up to a 42 although it really stopped pulling good after 32”. Maybe the China coil is crap or the fins aren’t drawing good

 

[SpaceBus]

My 395 starts easily since I replaced the coil. Mine was built in Brazil, and I suspect the coils used might not be the good ones from the 395's built in Sweden.

 

[Diabel]

It is hard to explain, the saw worked great. Turned it off to refuel, pulled the starter rope and there was no piston resistance at all. It felt like there was something seriously broken, it sounded “harsh”. Left it for few hours, tried starting it, it burped ran for 5 seconds and stopped. Then when pulling the starter rope felt harsh again. Yesterday, it started beautiful after couple of pulls and idled for 3/4min. I turned it off as I had to go. Will start it again today and let it run longer.

 

[Nealm66]

Is there a compression release on those?

 

[Diabel]

Yes

 

[Diabel]

And also, that decompression button felt rough to depress

 

[Nealm66]

Ya, any decent saw shop should have the plug for that if they do mods

 

[salecker]

And also, that decompression button felt rough to depress

is it an china decomp?
those have fallen apart and taken the top ends out on the kit saws

 

[Diabel]

is it an china decomp?
those have fallen apart and taken the top ends out on the kit saws

Yes it is the China decomp. The whole saw is Chinese G660. You mean the decomp button can cause the saw to fail?

 

[Nealm66]

Looks like Amazon has them for $9. I’d jerk that thing out of there

 

[Nealm66]

Hard to say what it is for sure being a cheap setup but every modded saw I’ve ever owned, husky or stihl has them removed

 

[Diabel]

Are you saying, replace the decomp valve with a plug. It sure will bw harder to pull, but that is ok if it is a common problem.

 

[Nealm66]

Yes. Not sure if it’s your problem. Surprised your able to get yours to work very well. I still have the one on my 880 but if I try to use it, it pops closed and I just end up not using it. It’s a pig to start when is cold. I need to jerk it out and get a plug

 

[Diabel]

Are you saying all decomp valves are bad? My 360 has one and even my brand new 261 has one (that one I am not sure why).