In need of help/advice?

[Hogwildz]

Here is one thing i do not understand .................

If the stove is made for an outside air kit / out side air supply and outside air IS supplied to a stove the stove should put out hotter then 73° from the top of the stove when the thermometer shows 500°

The outside air supply does not connect directly to the stove, they say to use the ash cleanout with a piece of screen over it, and back the stove up to it, being careful not to cover it. If his front temp is 600 or what not, that blower air has got to be hotter than 73*. Its got to be. Now if he actually doesn't have outside air, and they didn't knock the side knock out in the side casing, for inside air draw, he may not be getting free flowing air to the blower. That may be the problem.
BTW how do you do the "degree" symbol on a kewboard? LOL

hahahahaha , i waited over a year for somebody to ask me that , YOUR THE FIRST !

************************************************************************
degree symbol :

Hold your "Alt" key the same time you type in 248 on your key pad on the right. °

Well I had to ask my daily question LOL °?°

 

[acosta2269]

Here is one thing i do not understand .................

If the stove is made for an outside air kit / out side air supply and outside air IS supplied to a stove the stove should put out hotter then 73° from the top of the stove when the thermometer shows 500°

The outside air supply does not connect directly to the stove, they say to use the ash cleanout with a piece of screen over it, and back the stove up to it, being careful not to cover it. If his front temp is 600 or what not, that blower air has got to be hotter than 73*. Its got to be. Now if he actually doesn't have outside air, and they didn't knock the side knock out in the side casing, for inside air draw, he may not be getting free flowing air to the blower. That may be the problem.
BTW how do you do the "degree" symbol on a kewboard? LOL

Should that hole be knocked out? You think that's part of the problem too?

 

[Hogwildz]

Here is one thing i do not understand .................

If the stove is made for an outside air kit / out side air supply and outside air IS supplied to a stove the stove should put out hotter then 73° from the top of the stove when the thermometer shows 500°

The outside air supply does not connect directly to the stove, they say to use the ash cleanout with a piece of screen over it, and back the stove up to it, being careful not to cover it. If his front temp is 600 or what not, that blower air has got to be hotter than 73*. Its got to be. Now if he actually doesn't have outside air, and they didn't knock the side knock out in the side casing, for inside air draw, he may not be getting free flowing air to the blower. That may be the problem.
BTW how do you do the "degree" symbol on a kewboard? LOL

Should that hole be knocked out? You think that's part of the problem too?

It depends if they used an ash cleanout for outside air or not? HOnestly, now that I think about it, your getting temps, and the sotve is going to get air one way or another,
I don't see why it wouldn't just suck through the grille if the plate wasn't knocked out. But like I said, its one or the other, Either the old ash cleanout, or that knockout.

 

[Roospike]

I dont understand the 4' knock out hole . the insert looks like it draws the house air from the side vents and then out the top.............where does the 4' hole come into play ?

 

[acosta2269]

Thanks for the offer. I'm about an hour north of NYC, probably a little too far.

Hmm, well if you need help, just lemme know. Can't be more than a few hours. Figure your plan, and let me know. I'd personally figure for a blockoff plate, but we have to find where the hot air is going, and where the cold air is coming from. Did you look to see if the installer knocked the inside air circle out on the side casing? You can look thorugh the side surround grille to check. Mine is on the left side as I said earlier. The manual sayd right, but mine was on left, and seeing your blower is on the right like mine, I think yours inside air knock out is also going to be on the left side.

I checked the left side and the side is still in tack. The hole was not punched out. I can't tell on the right side, because the blower is in the way.

Should it be punched out?

Ok, you only use one or the other, Outside air, which is drawn in the lower rear intake from an old ash cleanout in the extisting fireplace.
Or the inside air drawn from that circle on the left side casing. Which yours is not knocked out. There wont be one on the blower side. Just the left side one.
So do you remember there being an ash cleanout in the old fireplace? THey might not have it set up for either, which may be part of the probelm.

I don't remember if there was an ash cleanout. If there was, I never used it. I'm almost certain they didn't install it using the ash pan, if it exists. How do I know if they knocked out the rear hole?

 

[Roospike]

Combustion Air
Consult local building codes regarding combustion air supply.
Intake or combustion air can be supplied to the Insert in one of
two ways:
1) Outside air supply: Remove cover from ash clean out in
existing fireplace. Place a rodent screen in place of the
cover. Install the Insert as described in the "Installation"
section, making sure not to cover the opening of the air
inlet. When installation is complete, seal surround to fireplace
and anywhere else air may enter. This will ensure
combustion air is drawn from outside the house and into the
9" x 2" intake at the lower rear of the appliance.

2) Room air supply: Remove the 4" knock-out plug from the
casing right side prior to installation (Fig. #14). Install the
Insert as described in the "Installation" section. The Insert
will now draw its air from the room through the front grill.

 

[acosta2269]

Combustion Air
Consult local building codes regarding combustion air supply.
Intake or combustion air can be supplied to the Insert in one of
two ways:
1) Outside air supply: Remove cover from ash clean out in
existing fireplace. Place a rodent screen in place of the
cover. Install the Insert as described in the "Installation"
section, making sure not to cover the opening of the air
inlet. When installation is complete, seal surround to fireplace
and anywhere else air may enter. This will ensure
combustion air is drawn from outside the house and into the
9" x 2" intake at the lower rear of the appliance.

2) Room air supply: Remove the 4" knock-out plug from the
casing right side prior to installation (Fig. #14). Install the
Insert as described in the "Installation" section. The Insert
will now draw its air from the room through the front grill.

My money is on niether one. I will call him tomorrow and ask him. Is there a way I can figure it out myself in case he BS's me?

 

[Hogwildz]

I dont understand the 4' knock out hole . the insert looks like it draws the house air from the side vents and then out the top.............where does the 4' hole come into play ?

I have no clue, but thats what is instructed for room supply air. Which it states knock this out, the insert now will draw its air from the room through the front grille. Maybe it comes through grille, then through that hole, around the outside of the casing to the back intake. Thats the only thing I can think of.

 

[Roospike]

OK so the manual says the 4" knock out hole is for "house air supply" so if your drawing air from the outside then you leave the 4" knock out on the panel

Sense acosta knock out hole is ..........not knocked out then the stove must be drawing air from the outside .............assuming there is outside air to be supplied.

 

[Hogwildz]

OK so the manual says the 4" knock out hole is for "house air supply" so if your drawing air from the outside then you leave the 4" knock out on the panel

Sense acosta knock out hole is ..........not knocked out then the stove must be drawing air from the outside .............assuming there is outside air to be supplied.

I think this is part of the problem. I don't think he has an ash cleanout, and the knockout should prolly be knocked out to draw air.

Acosta, there is no rear knock out, the inatake in rear is already open, then it travels throught a chamber undernearth to front on bottom where the air control lever is.
You really need to know if there was an ash cleanout that they may have used for outside air intake. If not, you need to knock out that 4" plate in the left side.
Which is easy. I can walk you throught it. You will have to take some pieces off to get to it though.

 

[Roospike]

no air supply ? could this be it >

acosta , how much air is coming off the front of your stove from the blower?

the heat from the stove is stil going somewhere but with out the proper air supply to the stove it could be dampened a lot.

 

[Hogwildz]

no air supply ? could this be it >

acosta , how much air is coming off the front of your stove from the blower?

the heat from the stove is stil going somewhere but with out the proper air supply to the stove it could be dampened a lot.

Exactly, but hes still getting up to temps.
Oh hell, I'll brb need a smoke.

 

[acosta2269]

The blower blows pretty strong. the air coming off of it is warm (not hot) but it does blow strong.

If I were missing an adequate air supply, wouldn't the fire have trouble burning?

 

[Hogwildz]

The blower blows pretty strong. the air coming off of it is warm (not hot) but it does blow strong.

If I were missing an adequate air supply, wouldn't the fire have trouble burning?

Thats what I am thinking.
But as far as the blower, The blower takes its air from the grille in front of the blower on right side.

 

[Roospike]

must be the supply combustion air is separate from the blower supply

 

[Hogwildz]

must be the supply combustion air is separate from the blower supply

Correct, the blower sucks its air through the right frong grille.

 

[Roospike]

the stove gets 500° at the front so the wood is burning. that does not mean the supply air for the combustion is correct tho.

 

[acosta2269]

Blower blows strong. Fire burns strong (insert reaches 600 degrees). Very little heat comes out of the blower.

 

[Roospike]

Blower blows strong. Fire burns strong (insert reaches 600 degrees). Very little heat comes out of the blower.

again , that has to be magic. air pulled around a 600° stove and the air blows out at 73°


acosta, Do you get fires going looking like this in your stove ? Secondary burn: http://invite.filmloop.com/x?TiGQ7F6rkWljtamOMeI1Ev2k1CLKdfik

 

[Hogwildz]

I say knock the damn side knockout out.
And I am still thinking since there is no damper blockoff, the blower might be somehow drawing cold air from the chimney also and mixing it with the hot air to = just warm air.

 

[Hogwildz]

Stupid question, but is the air blowing out the top or through the right grille? Wondering if they switched the blower wires during install. Mine came offf a few times, but I did take notice of where they were attached.

 

[Roospike]

sounds like the blower is drawing really cold air from somewhere besides the room return air inlet on the side of the stove.

 

[acosta2269]

Blower blows strong. Fire burns strong (insert reaches 600 degrees). Very little heat comes out of the blower.

again , that has to be magic. air pulled around a 600° stove and the air blows out at 73°


acosta, Do you get fires going looking like this in your stove ? Secondary burn: http://invite.filmloop.com/x?TiGQ7F6rkWljtamOMeI1Ev2k1CLKdfik

Yes I do. AFter your tips from last time, the fire has been burning great. I'm just not getting any heat. It looks pretty though.

 

[Roospike]

another odd ball question ...............is the part with an X in the pictured installed on your surround ? Can you see if its a tight fit ? The shield should fit under the circled tabs

 

[acosta2269]

I will meet with the building inspector in the morning and let you know what he says. I will definitely ask him about closing off the vents. I'll also point out the direct flue instead of the full flue. I think the manual says it must be a full flue in a pre-fab fireplace. It also says it must be sealed, which I'm guessing the block off plate does and the insulation doesn't. Also, the lack of the hole punched out. Basically, he's not going to approve the inspection of the stove. Then i can force the installer to install it properly. Problem is...I don't know if we completely know what all the problems are. If I do get him to come back and re-install it for these corrections..chances are I won't get him here a 3rd time if we missed anything.