How to burn wood pellets in 2006 Auburn corn burner
- Thread starter Rxwoman1961
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Yes. Weird thing, before the green on/off light flashed when I turned it on. Now it doesn't.
But yes, it runs with the vacuume switch jumped.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Let it run for half an hour then bump it to heat lvl 2 and see how its burning. I’m thinking the elbow that the hose hooks to in the firebox is plugged
Ok. But with pellets only, right? Also would I have been able to blow through the hose if it was clogged in the elbow?
And in the firebox, how much air/draft should I be able to feel up behind the burn bowl. I took it out and I could see a metal tube leading away from that area behind one of those exhaust slots. Should there have been noticible air flow when I feel there while the exhaust fan is on?
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
no you couldn’t have blown through it
duhh.You wont feel a lot of air. It might hold a post it note.
Ok Ssyko,
I got impatient and frustrated and I didn't follow your instructions this time. I had it going but doing the same thing as last time...fire getting smaller and smaller while pellets dropping in. So I grabbed my blow dryer and blew into the fresh air intake. Whoosh! I had a nice hot fire for a minute. About 5 minutes later I tried to raise the setting to #2. It wouldn't let me. I seemed to be locked out. Then I noticed funky smoke in the fire box so I tried recording it. While I'm doing this the whole stove shut down and started blinking #3!
I turned it off and turned it back on, so it's running on #2 now. I'm getting a BIG fire ( no more blow dryer). I'm wondering if my proof of fire switch went kapute when I took it off?
I got impatient and frustrated and I didn't follow your instructions this time. I had it going but doing the same thing as last time...fire getting smaller and smaller while pellets dropping in. So I grabbed my blow dryer and blew into the fresh air intake. Whoosh! I had a nice hot fire for a minute. About 5 minutes later I tried to raise the setting to #2. It wouldn't let me. I seemed to be locked out. Then I noticed funky smoke in the fire box so I tried recording it. While I'm doing this the whole stove shut down and started blinking #3!
I turned it off and turned it back on, so it's running on #2 now. I'm getting a BIG fire ( no more blow dryer). I'm wondering if my proof of fire switch went kapute when I took it off?
Oops, spoke too soon. My "big fire" just went out.no you couldn’t have blown through it
You wont feel a lot of air. It might hold a post it note.
Attachments
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Ok the proof of fire snap disc are somewhat fragile at the terminals where they connect to the body. If they get loose it could cause intermittent connections. But that only controls the convection blower. Is that coming on? So we still have a big draft issue. I’m going to dig a little more into the exhaust motor and control board when i get home from work. Cant read this fine print on the phone I’m old also 
Oh! You're at work! So sorry. Yes, thank you.Ok the proof of fire snap disc are somewhat fragile at the terminals where they connect to the body. If they get loose it could cause intermittent connections. But that only controls the convection blower. Is that coming on? So we still have a big draft issue. I’m going to dig a little more into the exhaust motor and control board when i get home from work. Cant read this fine print on the phone I’m old also
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Well if the stove is warm, and you a comfortable with jumping the low limit switch after the stove has turned on and in start up for 30 sec. this is live voltage 120vac. We can’t do the jump before because the board will see it as a err and shut down. If your not comfy with that it’s cool.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
So I'm going to have to stick a paper clip in there (that's how Ive been jumping these things) while the stove is plugged in? And that will stop the #3 blinky blinky and keep the convection fan on?
Both fans ran for quite a while before finally shutting everything off.
But that doesn't fix the dying fire problem, does it?
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Yes it should eliminate #3 blink. Running is what we need it to do. Im hoping we can get it cooking and burn some of that tar out of the stove. But jumping the disc will also make it keep feeding pellets. This will be a last ditch effort short of being ther
Ok, so then this happened. As the fire was about to go out I turned the on/off button on and off and I wasnt locked out anymore, so I augured more pellets to keep it going. I got the fire cooking again and the convection fan kicked in. A few minutes later the convection fan made a sound like it was going into overdrive, started blowing like crazy (noisy thing) and the on/off button FINALLY stopped blinking!
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
Ok that means you got it through the startup and now it's in run mode. what kinda noise did the convection fan make/ rattle squeal?
out of the manual
The Ignition Cycle works as follows: a. The Combustion Fan comes on at high speed and the control board checks to make sure the Vacuum switch locks in. (See section on Diagnostic features on page 34 and 35) b. If the Control Board senses the Vacuum switch the Exhaust Fan drops to a lower start up speed and the Room Fan shuts off. c. After 5 minutes the board starts feeding Fuel on the #1 setting until the board senses Proof of Fire or until the ignition cycle times out after 15 minutes. d. If the board fails to sense P.O.F. after 15 minutes it will shut down and flashes the #3 alarm. e. If the board senses P.O.F. the stove has started successfully and the Igniter shuts off. The unit is now in “Normal Operation Mode”. If the Stove went into “Shutdown” and the #3 LED is flashing repeat the Start-Up process. (See section on Diagnostic Features on page 34 and 35.) C
out of the manual
The Ignition Cycle works as follows: a. The Combustion Fan comes on at high speed and the control board checks to make sure the Vacuum switch locks in. (See section on Diagnostic features on page 34 and 35) b. If the Control Board senses the Vacuum switch the Exhaust Fan drops to a lower start up speed and the Room Fan shuts off. c. After 5 minutes the board starts feeding Fuel on the #1 setting until the board senses Proof of Fire or until the ignition cycle times out after 15 minutes. d. If the board fails to sense P.O.F. after 15 minutes it will shut down and flashes the #3 alarm. e. If the board senses P.O.F. the stove has started successfully and the Igniter shuts off. The unit is now in “Normal Operation Mode”. If the Stove went into “Shutdown” and the #3 LED is flashing repeat the Start-Up process. (See section on Diagnostic Features on page 34 and 35.) C
Last edited:
Well I was going to upload video of it running but it wouldnt let me. Too large.
It's just really loud. Reminds of of the noises of a jet engine, high pitched and whiny. And it seems to change speeds
when it feels like it and there's a faint beeping I cant pin point. I thought my up stairs smoke detector was going off, but no, it comes from the stove.
In any event, it's still going so far.
Seems to like pellets way more than it liked corn. I have awful creosote building up on the glass already, but oh well, I have some heat finally too.
Ssyko
Minister of Fire
yes that's normal on a lot of stoves.. now i gotta ask, I was just reading the manual for your stove. Is your coal rake rod pushed in? under the door on the front of the stove there is 2 rods) The Coal Rake & the Slide-Out bottom must be in the correct position for the unit to operate correctly. The Coal Rake must be pulled out or the burn pot will overload. top rod out bottom in
Last edited:
Similar threads
