How do you load your insert

[velvetfoot]

Andiron? No andirons. Mine is more like the Regency I2400. It's not as flush as your, I guess. They brag about a 2.6" firebox size and the ability to load 22" pieces of wood in the CI2600, but I bet I routinely fit more wood in mine with the 2.3" firebox. The flush look might appeal to people, like my wife, lol, but not so much me, I guess.

 

[TradEddie]

I load mine E/W because it takes longer logs. I could fit two 15" splits N/S, but at the sides it's much shorter, so although I set aside suitable splits, I rarely have a full stove to load N/S. That's a shame because it burns much better N/S, due to the location of the doghouse air and the route of the secondary air supply.
Cutting and splitting to N/S size creates very narrow and unstable racks, so I go with the wider splits, and when the bucking results in some shorter splits I'm happy too.

TE

 

[Bagelboy]

In January, I stated that I load E/W. I've come to start loading N/S which started after reading this thread. For me, I will keep loading N/S for now on. One, I cut my own wood at 20"s, so it will fit. Two, I think the fire starts back up faster because raking the coals forward allows the wood to catch faster, and three, I don't ever place my hands over coals. So for me, the N/S loading has been better.

 

[Beer Belly]

small firebox, so load mostly E/W, but drop N/S when I can

 

[velvetfoot]

I've noticed with the combo method described above that sometimes the e/w pieces don't burn! Overnight, I gave it more air and it worked better. I think I'm generally going to stick with N/S, using the combo method once in a while.

 

[edge-of-the-woods]

I've noticed with the combo method described above that sometimes the e/w pieces don't burn! Overnight, I gave it more air and it worked better. I think I'm generally going to stick with N/S, using the combo method once in a while.

The EW pieces don't burn at all, or they smolder out? Is there enough space under them for air to get to the coals? I noticed that when I set my EW splits right on the coals, it would smother the coals out if they weren't red hot. If I dig a little tunnel under there first, or poke through the coal bed to expose it under the log in a few places, they light right up.

 

[prezes13]

I think that small pieces NS on the bottom and the rest EW would work the best for a long controlled burn. It's just hard to do with small shallow fire boxes

 

[velvetfoot]

The EW pieces don't burn at all, or they smolder out? Is there enough space under them for air to get to the coals? I noticed that when I set my EW splits right on the coals, it would smother the coals out if they weren't red hot. If I dig a little tunnel under there first, or poke through the coal bed to expose it under the log in a few places, they light right up.

I think there was not enough air getting to it. I think the key is try different ways and be open to experimentation.

 

[laxin213]

I am new to insert burning and have been loading EW. I was hoping to NS so that way I wouldn't have a chance to get a burning piece stuck up against the glass. I had a smoldering piece fall out and had some hot coal leave some soot on the metal mesh air intake. I don't think the stove shop installed something called a "fettle" on my insert which according to the manual was supposed to come with it. I'm going to have to inquire with them.

Finding it ahrd to really "fill" it for an overnight burn EW. Most of my peices are cut 16" to 17" and EW it can hold 24". I am going to have to start cutting to that length.

 

[seabert]

How do you guys load your inserts? east west? Or north south? 99.9 % of the time I load east west however I came across few short cut splits and I loaded it north south and I kind like it better. Better use of a fire box tighter fit, make me wonder if I will get a longer burn. What do you guys think? Is it worth it extra work when you cut your wood?

I have been following a few threads on the N/S E/W so I can better understand how to get a longer burn. Because I have a flush insert N/S requires very short logs. As a result I am kind of stuck with E/W stacking. The question I have is when I stack the logs air cannot get through between the logs resulting in a low temperature burn so what am I doing wrong? If I put 2 splits in the insert with space between them the insert burns very hot and clean but I have to reload every couple of hours.
I was thinking of cutting short splits so I can do the N/S but with a shallow box they have to be very short in order to fit. My thought is maybe just alternate N/S starting on bottom then E/W then N/S etc. The objective is to get air between the logs so they all burn.

Thoughts? I would really like to get at least 6 hours without reloading

 

[Beer Belly]

I have been following a few threads on the N/S E/W so I can better understand how to get a longer burn. Because I have a flush insert N/S requires very short logs. As a result I am kind of stuck with E/W stacking. The question I have is when I stack the logs air cannot get through between the logs resulting in a low temperature burn so what am I doing wrong? If I put 2 splits in the insert with space between them the insert burns very hot and clean but I have to reload every couple of hours.
I was thinking of cutting short splits so I can do the N/S but with a shallow box they have to be very short in order to fit. My thought is maybe just alternate N/S starting on bottom then E/W then N/S etc. The objective is to get air between the logs so they all burn.

Thoughts? I would really like to get at least 6 hours without reloading

I run a split diagonally (N/W lol) and prop the one end up on the lip of the door opening.....just enough to hold it up and not hit the door.....stack other splits on top of that, and we're good to go. Once it gets going, the propped end drops, and you've got enough burn going you can throw in what you want

 

[prezes13]

If you are reloading and you have a small bed of coals and stove cooled off already try to do first layer N/S and then E/W. From my experience if can load the stove E/W full that will be mine longer burn

 

[OhioBurner©]

I've got a huge brick fireplace but just a tiny opening. The Rockland was as large as I could fit. 24" across but only will take 13" deep and that's going over the andirons.

I have cut a lot at 13" and much prefer loading it n/s but the extra processing is a pain. And stacking is a pain. Big advantage is I can pack more wood into the firebox and utilize the full 24" width.

I've cut 24" but it wastes a lot of space unless your pieces happen to be as straight as dimensional lumber.

This year I tried out eco bricks (9.5") and they are working great and easy to go N/S of course. I'll typically put in 2 medium splits E/W than a row across the top of bricks and 2-3 at the end to fill up the full 24" width since most of my splits are ~18-20".

 

[TradEddie]

The EW pieces don't burn at all, or they smolder out? Is there enough space under them for air to get to the coals? I noticed that when I set my EW splits right on the coals, it would smother the coals out if they weren't red hot. If I dig a little tunnel under there first, or poke through the coal bed to expose it under the log in a few places, they light right up.

That's what I do too, or even throw a small stick in N/S to leave an air channel free. In my insert, possibly as significant as allowing air to the rear logs, it allows flame and hot air to heat the supply channel for the secondary burn tubes.

TE

 

[seabert]

That's what I do too, or even throw a small stick in N/S to leave an air channel free. In my insert, possibly as significant as allowing air to the rear logs, it allows flame and hot air to heat the supply channel for the secondary burn tubes.

TE

The EW pieces don't burn at all, or they smolder out? Is there enough space under them for air to get to the coals? I noticed that when I set my EW splits right on the coals, it would smother the coals out if they weren't red hot. If I dig a little tunnel under there first, or poke through the coal bed to expose it under the log in a few places, they light right up.

I followed the above advice and made a slight valley in the center of the firebox going N/S and decided to go for it. I put 3 small splits across the coals creating an E/W bridge and still made sure I had some coals in front. Then I stacked more E/W splits on top. The result was a real game changer in how I load and the longer burns I can get now without fussing with the fire. The logs burned perfectly and with a tighter packed firebox the secondaries were humming along. I was able to close the damper and still have a strong fire. My glass is still very clear after several loads. It is these little tidbits that make this forum so incredible.

 

[glennm]

I have the Montpellier insert and I can get n/s splits in there if they are around 16". I am a veteran wood burner (over 40 years) and have only had this insert for about 4 years. This year I tried raking the coals to the front and leaving a tunnel in the middle. I put a large piece at the back of the stove and put another piece on top of it. I then put a long heavy piece near the andirons (e/w) so that it will take a long time to burn down allowing the air to get below the load. I the fill the rest of the stove with what will fit (e/w). This gives me a very nice hot fire and helps burn down the coals. This insert is small for my space but the fan is always running 10-12 hrs later and many hot coals when you move the to the front for the nest load. Btw, use welding gloves when loading, it is really hot in there!

 

[Adios Pantalones]

N/S- loaded to the tubes.

 

[David.Ervin]

E/W mostly, since my splits are usually too long to fit N/S. I've had some loads that were combinations of E/W, shoved off to the side and a couple N/S pieces on the end to really pack it full.