Hearthstone truhybrid
- Thread starter nortcan
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
That’s the available range of safe and clean outputs. Bound on the bottom by cat stall and pollution, bound on the top by stove material limitations and design.
The numbers aren’t perfect. Epa screwed up by adding the crib wood or cord wood option which makes comparison impossible unless they both use the same option.
Not to de-rail the discussion here but to the same extent one stove was tested with “mostly maple” and another with oak. Hard to get an apples to apples it seems
Yikes good catch. That’s a bit mind boggling to me. That would suggest hearthstone in a hybrid design is getting better burn times than basically anyone including standard cat models. Seems highly improbable but would be very impressive
again though, principal of the matter aside, I’m not certain I personally care that much as I would not require (or typically want) to be running the stove as low and slow as would be needed to achieve those times even if it were possible
If you want to use those published ratings to that level of detail then you would benefit from reading the test methods. It’s kind of a rabbit hole. If there was a way to pass the test easier and with better results I’m sure the manufacturers would utilize it.
OH_Varmntr
Burning Hunk
Well, I'm off to pick up my Heritage TruHybrid. If anyone wants specific pictures, dimensions not called out in the manual, etc... let me know.
Good luck with your new stove. If you get a weel made one, you will love your stove. If the stove is brand new, would you please take care on how the new doors open and close, I mean how smooth the lever action is, not comparable to other stoves systems. And it's that smoothness I try to bring back on my 2 Hearthstone. That butter like movement disappeared very fast on mines and it was impossible to get it back, I tried many many times to remove all the latch parts, cleaned them, lubricated with HT grease, removed/ add washers but all I got is a metal on metal rubbing/grinding feeling.
OH_Varmntr
Burning Hunk
Well, my initial reports on my Heritage TH is that it's a beautifully made stove. Very tight assembly tolerances and everything seems very high quality.
I seem to over-fire the thing constantly, even with the primary air control at its minimum.
I'll start a new thread for details.
I seem to over-fire the thing constantly, even with the primary air control at its minimum.
I'll start a new thread for details.
Nice to hear that, in fact the enameled black is very nice. Maybe your draft is too strong, have you tested the chimney draft with a mamo?
Make sure the front door rope gasket is not hardened from the liquid used to hold the gasket in the groove, I had to replace the gaskets on my Heritage and Castleton one. Hope to see the 25 number soon ! Good luck .
Do you have a on top of the stove thermometer ? Very important .
Attachments
electrathon
Minister of Fire
I think a more accurate statement is it will take 20-30 minutes before the stones start to heat. "Heat up" to warm is more like hours. Soapstone is an insulator, not a conductor. You need to drive enough heat at the stones that you overpower the insulation and let heat into the room. If there wasn't a glass front on the stove it is likely you would feel the stove never put out usable heat. I think that most of the heat in the room I get is through the glass door.
But dang, they look good.
The statement was misleading as well. Like in exchange for the extra 30 minutes of slow warm up you get 2 hours of “extra” heat at the end. Really, best case, the amount of heat released at the end is equal to that absorbed at the beginning.
Lots of hearthstones get melted and overfired by cold homeowners.
OH_Varmntr
Burning Hunk
The stone definitely takes some getting used to as far as how long it takes before you can start feeling heat from them. What's interesting is that the dealer I bought mine from never went over anything with me on the characteristics of this stove. I can have the flue and catalyst temps up to where I want them long before the top stones get warm enough that I cannot lay my hand upon them. The dealer had a 4"x6" piece of the 1-1/4" thick soapstone and I couldn't believe how heavy it was. It's a very interesting material.
I wonder how many folks are initially unhappy with them if they've came from a cast unit, then if anything is damaged from over-firing and they get a bill...
I came downstairs this morning and the stove top was 179*F. At least we can stay somewhat warm when re-lighting that fire.
I wonder how many folks are initially unhappy with them if they've came from a cast unit, then if anything is damaged from over-firing and they get a bill...
I came downstairs this morning and the stove top was 179*F. At least we can stay somewhat warm when re-lighting that fire.
The stone definitely takes some getting used to as far as how long it takes before you can start feeling heat from them. What's interesting is that the dealer I bought mine from never went over anything with me on the characteristics of this stove. I can have the flue and catalyst temps up to where I want them long before the top stones get warm enough that I cannot lay my hand upon them. The dealer had a 4"x6" piece of the 1-1/4" thick soapstone and I couldn't believe how heavy it was. It's a very interesting material.
I wonder how many folks are initially unhappy with them if they've came from a cast unit, then if anything is damaged from over-firing and they get a bill...
I came downstairs this morning and the stove top was 179*F. At least we can stay somewhat warm when re-lighting that fire.
I do believe that a 179 degree stove will be easier to start a new fire in than an ice cold one. Flue already drafting, less chance of creosote condensation.
Did someone install a manometer like a Dwyer 25 to the stove pipe for a Heritage ? If so, do the mano should be placed at the same level as the stove pipe connection or that doesn't matter , how far from the top of the stove I drill the inlet hole ? I got the mano but the included instructions don't show where and how to install it, I understand that the Dwyer 25 can be used for many purposes but I just would like to do the install. the good way and not drill too many holes in the pipe LOL.. Thanks
OH_Varmntr
Burning Hunk
You can put your gage wherever, but I would install it higher than the port so any condensation can drain (in industrial settings we commonly use double ball valves below a loop in order to drain off condensation traps without exposing the process piping to atmosphere). Just be sure to precisely level the manometer.
What are you using for tubing?
What are you using for tubing?
I will use brake tubing . What do you mean by : higher than the port ? Thanks for the infos.
OH_Varmntr
Burning Hunk
This isn't my picture but it accurately displays what I meant to communicate.
The port his manometer is hooked up to (a yellow arrow is pointing to it on the side of the stove) is physically lower than where his gage is mounted up on the wall. This way, if any condensation were to be generated in the tubing, it will drain back into the port rather than into the gage if it were mounted below the port.
Generally speaking with short runs of tubing, since you are measuring negative air pressure you don't need to worry about placement of the gage because as long as the tubing is leak-free, the pressure at the gage will be equal to the pressure at the port.
As far as the location to drill the port, again it shouldn't really matter as long as it is placed far enough away from anything that will generate turbulence in the flue stream like dampers or elbows. 6-8" above your stove connection should work just fine.
The port his manometer is hooked up to (a yellow arrow is pointing to it on the side of the stove) is physically lower than where his gage is mounted up on the wall. This way, if any condensation were to be generated in the tubing, it will drain back into the port rather than into the gage if it were mounted below the port.
Generally speaking with short runs of tubing, since you are measuring negative air pressure you don't need to worry about placement of the gage because as long as the tubing is leak-free, the pressure at the gage will be equal to the pressure at the port.
As far as the location to drill the port, again it shouldn't really matter as long as it is placed far enough away from anything that will generate turbulence in the flue stream like dampers or elbows. 6-8" above your stove connection should work just fine.
I see what you meant. Sorry for my poor Français Québecois . Thanks
OH_Varmntr
Burning Hunk
Here is a couple photos showing how the primary air port with 3 holes instead of one works. With one hole, the air *jet* was so strong that it was burning just in the center bottom of the load making a sort of U hole . Now with the adaptor having 3 holes, it burns a wider space as seen on the photos. The adaptor has gasket seals under it and is just laying down between the andirons, so it's easy to make comparisons with or without it.
You also can see the door handles in HT black paint , much more discret that way cause having 3 big brown wood handles was too much tractor transmission handles like ! LOL.
You also can see the door handles in HT black paint , much more discret that way cause having 3 big brown wood handles was too much tractor transmission handles like ! LOL.
OH_Varmntr
Burning Hunk
Yes that definitely improves the width of the primary air burn channel. I really like that!
I also like your painted handles, it looks much better that way.
I also like your painted handles, it looks much better that way.
Thanks OH_Varmntr, in fact if the stove had only one handle it would be ...probably OK, but there are 3 big handles plus the air control knob to catch the look and that dont matche the beauty of the stove itself. Only my/and my wife opinion. If you take a closer look at the air control knob (also in black) you can see on the photos 2 white dots to indicate the air adjustment from the closed position, much easier to fine tune the air feed rate.
Last edited:
