Fire Chief FC1500 install

[Mrpelletburner]

Not sure I have enough of non oak to mix woods.

I have tried to mix 3 year old cord wood with 18 month cord wood and the outcome is the same.

What I keep going back to is my the draft pull of my 32’ chimney. Seems as if most people posting have a shorter double wall pipe stack, potentially with a different draft.

I have zero issues getting the stove going or putting out heat, just short burn times.

When loading for the night I rake the coal bed forward and try to stack as tight as possible. The load takes off within 20-40mins. Because the stove outputs so much heat the draft blower does not kick on until there is almost nothing left in the fire box.

HY-C has stressed not to install a baro and the stove is not designed to have one installed. In fact anyone with the newer FC model stove does not have a baro installed.

 

[brenndatomu]

What I keep going back to is my the draft pull of my 32’ chimney. Seems as if most people posting have a shorter double wall pipe stack, potentially with a different draft.

Why you need a baro...you could use a manual damper if you are going to run the furnace totally manual too...I'd never put a manual damper on a furnace that has an "auto intake damper" that's hooked up...

 

[Case1030]

I agree with Bren. Looks like you have a few options.

Put a simple manual damper in and cut off the power to the forced air. Or use a manual damper in tandem with a baro to achieve 0.06 draft.

Ether that or find a way to close down the primary air intake (forced air will active when call for heat from thermostat) along with adjusting 2ndary air intake air half the amount. Should be able to reduce linkage to achieve that.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Well the big guy did not deliver! All I wanted for Xmas is not to wake up to a cold stove. Loaded the stove at midnight and at 7:30am the stove was toast and had to cold start the stove.

Cannot express how frustrating it is to wake up to a cold stove when the stove is advertised to burn for 12+ hours.

 

[brenndatomu]

Sounds like you need to talk to elves that are a little further north to get 12 hour loads...

 

[Case1030]

Well the big guy did not deliver! All I wanted for Xmas is not to wake up to a cold stove. Loaded the stove at midnight and at 7:30am the stove was toast and had to cold start the stove.

Cannot express how frustrating it is to wake up to a cold stove when the stove is advertised to burn for 12+ hours.

Not trying to brag here... woke up to a nice coal bed after 8-9 hours on half firebox. Probably could have pushed it to 10hours.

 

[Case1030]

Overdraft my friend. Until that's addressed don't expect much control.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Not trying to brag here... woke up to a nice coal bed after 8-9 hours on half firebox. Probably could have pushed it to 10hours.

What do you have for a stove?

 

[brenndatomu]

Not trying to brag here... woke up to a nice coal bed after 8-9 hours on half firebox. Probably could have pushed it to 10hours.

Pretty much my experience with the Tundra too...at least after the control mods anyways...

 

[Case1030]

What do you have for a stove?

Drolet Tundra 2. On full loads im able to get 13 hours no problem. Rake coals forward and repeat. I also use a tempurature controller that opens and closes based off the flue temp.

 

[Case1030]

Pretty much my experience with the Tundra too...at least after the control mods anyways...

Thats exactly it, when similar results are achieved by other members. Makes it easy to trouble shoot and in general a better understanding what to expect out of your unit (when setup/installed accordingly).

 

[JRHAWK9]

More details to come.....but I just got between 19-20 hour burn times. During the 15th hour the house went up a degree from 78° to 79°. It was a balmy 28-30° outside though, but still. I loaded the 4CF firebox full of Black Locust before we left to go out of town. I was monitoring the vitals remotely....

12 hours after loading, the firebox temps were still ~80° from the computer going to pilot. I'll be posting my handful of data points later in a different thread.

 

[brenndatomu]

Yeah, I got a matchless re-light last night, after 15 hours, on a half load!

 

[sloeffle]

During the 15th hour the house went up a degree from 78° to 79°.

How do you sleep with the house that warm ? Our house gets to 74 and I’m ready to open the windows.

 

[Case1030]

How do you sleep with the house that warm ? Our house gets to 74 and I’m ready to open the windows.

I hear you, my place climbed upto 78f last night in -8f outside weather on load of elm. Got a little carried away with my self... 10 hours later house still 72f.

 

[JRHAWK9]

lol...we were gone, so my sole purpose was to keep the LP furnace from turning on so I didn't care how warm it got in the house. I'm sure the cats loved it though.

 

[JRHAWK9]

Yeah, I got a matchless re-light last night, after 15 hours, on a half load!

turning the "electronics" off is cheating though.

 

[JRHAWK9]

I hear you, my place climbed upto 78f last night in -8f outside weather on load of elm. Got a little carried away with my self... 10 hours later house still 72f.

impressive! small house??

 

[brenndatomu]

turning the "electronics" off is cheating though.

Meh...just a technicality...

 

[JRHAWK9]

How do you sleep with the house that warm ? Our house gets to 74 and I’m ready to open the windows.

More details of the situation can be found -HERE-

I completely agree with you, high 70's is way too warm. We seem to like it in the 72°-74° area.

 

[Case1030]

impressive! small house??

Not terribly small... there is a large heat demand in my climate.

I have a single level 1400 Sft house in Manitoba on a 1000 sqfoot sealed crawlspace. The house has quite a bit a Windows dual panel with storm windows on the outside, and being that it was built early 1960-1970 only has 4 inch studs but built quite well with proper vapor barrior. The attic has regular r20 bat insulation with a good foot to 1.5 feet of blown in on top. Last winter was pretty brutal many days in a row of (-20 to -25 Celsius daytime/ -28 to -35 celcius night) or in Fahrenheit -4 to -31 not including wind chill.

 

[JRHAWK9]

Not terribly small... there is a large heat demand in my climate.

I have a single level 1400 Sft house in Manitoba on a 1000 sqfoot sealed crawlspace. The house has quite a bit a Windows dual panel with storm windows on the outside, and being that it was built early 1960-1970 only has 4 inch studs but built quite well with proper vapor barrior. The attic has regular r20 bat insulation with a good foot to 1.5 feet of blown in on top. Last winter was pretty brutal many days in a row of (-20 to -25 Celsius daytime/ -28 to -35 celcius night) or in Fahrenheit -4 to -31 not including wind chill.

We only have a 1,344 SF footprint. This is why house area, to me, is useless. House volume seems to make more sense when looking at heat loads.

 

[Case1030]

More details of the situation can be found -HERE-

I completely agree with you, high 70's is way too warm. We seem to like it in the 72°-74° area.

We only have a 1,344 SF footprint. This is why house area, to me, is useless. House volume seems to make more sense when looking at heat loads.

100% agree large ceiling peaks take a huge amount of heat. My place is only 8- 10ft flat ceiling.

 

[JRHAWK9]

100% agree large ceiling peaks take a huge amount of heat. My place is only 8- 10ft flat ceiling.

Ours has a metal roof overlaid on top of an existing asphalt shingle roof. On those cooler fall mornings when there is frost covering everything you can really see where on the roof the house is losing some of it's heat. On the roof peak along the whole length of the house, about a foot or two down on both sides, there will be no frost at all. Then we also have a handful of other smaller spots on the roof where frost is missing as well.

When we get snow it doesn't take long at all for the snow at the peak to disappear either.

 

[Case1030]

Ours has a metal roof overlaid on top of an existing asphalt shingle roof. On those cooler fall mornings when there is frost covering everything you can really see where on the roof the house is losing some of it's heat. On the roof peak along the whole length of the house, about a foot or two down on both sides, there will be no frost at all. Then we also have a handful of other smaller spots on the roof where frost is missing as well.

When we get snow it doesn't take long at all for the snow at the peak to disappear either.

$hit I'd at least hope you have fans to push that heat down out of the peak. Not really any easy solution to better insulate your roof without having an attic.