And a looking straight down view of the clearance between the stove back control box and the stove pipe.
I know every setup is a bit different, but will you be needing to take your stack down? Much? I haven't had mine apart since I put my boiler in 6 years ago. Except to replace a rusty T. If I need to, I can slip a shop vac hose inside my pipe thru the baro flap and vacuum each way from that. I have a T on the back of my boiler I can also pop a cover off to clean ash out if needed.
My cold return is thru ducts from first floor of house.Question....
How many of you guys have the return air ducted directly to the distribution blower vs just pulling air from the basement?
My setup gets the return air from the basement, leaving the basement door open.
If anyone reading this thread and owns the FC1500, please let me know if your door has also warped or is tough to open when the firebox is hot.
Yep, you beat me to it! No furnace can stand the draft speeds and temperature you're subjecting your furnace to. Took no time at all to get this far. Hope they stick behind their warranty, or maybe they will back out and say their furnaces were overfired.....?Hate to say it, but if they continue to believe that they (HY-C) can operate these units without controlling the chimney draft, they can expect to see a lot more of this kind of stuff.
Door is straight but expands and is harder to open on my furnace when it is hot.
Did you get the baro in?
The warped door, short burn times, and maybe even short limit switch life could all be due to too much chimney draft.
How was the house temp?Over night temps were in the single digits. Had to load the firebox twice, once at 10:30pm and again at 1:30am. At 1:30am and today at 7am the firebox was down to maybe 2 small ambers.
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How was the house temp?
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