Fire Chief FC1500 install

[maple1]

That they dont recommend a damper in the chimney the furnace like my sf1000 has a 3/8 in opening on the slide on combustion blower so the furnace can only pull that much air in. They said the flue dampers were causing more problems than good

Yes, but. If that 3/8 hole means it is supplying proper amount of air when the chimney is pulling too much draft, it also means it would be supplying not enough air when the chimney is pulling the right amount of draft.

These guys are way off base in their thinking. There is a reason fossil burners spec chimney dampers tuned to present certain chimney draft - efficient safe combustion in all conditions with no manual intervention.

 

[brenndatomu]

Yes, but. If that 3/8 hole means it is supplying proper amount of air when the chimney is pulling too much draft, it also means it would be supplying not enough air when the chimney is pulling the right amount of draft.

These guys are way off base in their thinking. There is a reason fossil burners spec chimney dampers tuned to present certain chimney draft - efficient safe combustion in all conditions with no manual intervention.

Maple speaks truth!
Look at the OM on any one of the "premium" wood furnaces out there...they all say you MUST control the draft to XYZ level (usually 0-06") and most require a baro to be installed. Kuumas even come with one...

 

[JRHAWK9]

I have read the manual. With that said, the original release of the manual last season was a copy and paste from their previous stoves, which operate different from the newer style stoves.

The last time I added the baro damper, things did not end well. Therefore I am moving forward with caution and trying to operate the stove per their feedback even if it goes against all logic. The last thing I need is to go off on my own and have them tell me good luck, we tried to help. I also don’t want to tell anyone making good suggestions that they are wrong either as everyone here is only trying to help and learn so they can continue to help.

So far this week, following their suggestions...

- Distribution blower kicks on shortly after initial load or reload and stays on until all fuel has been burned and the stove is down to hot ambers. When the stove is down to ambers, the distribution blower cycles.

- Loading the fire box for the over night at 11pm results to the first floor hitting high 80’s at around 2 am and the fire box down to very small ambers at 7am. At 7am the first floor will be 71 degrees. Only complaint here is I should be getting a longer burn time and perhaps not so much of a spike of heat.

- No matter if it is 20 or 30 outside, the first floor quickly rises to mid 80’s with ease and the second floor maintains ~71 degrees, because the first floor is so hot. This happens even if I reduce the amount of fuel per load. Yes, shorts and a tee shirt is a must.

- Stove pipe looks like it is burning off the build up of creosol. Here is a photo of the inside of the stove pipe yesterday. I am assuming the flake off is from the previous state of the build up of creosol?

Assuming this is starting to look like cleaner burns?
View attachment 233559

I understand what you are saying, however, the results you are seeing are kinda scary. When it's 30/40 outside you should be able to have enough control over it so it doesn't burn it's entire load in 3-4 hours causing the house drastically overheat. The way it sits right now, you have zero control, besides the amount of wood you put in. A BD would help you gain some control. It's like having a car with on on/off switch for a throttle. It's either nothing or full throttle.

I think you are burning "cleaner" because it is burning so hot. It's MUCH easier to get cleaner burns when you run things wide open.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Side question.. how exact plumb does the baro have to be?

 

[brenndatomu]

Side question.. how exact plumb does the baro have to be?

Perfect. Plumb too...although the side to side level is probably more important.
I came up with a nifty little tool to level them. A short piece of 2x4 with 3" or 4" legs attached to each side (legs to be EXACTLY the same length) the same width as the pivot pins on the baro door. The legs set on the pins and allow a level to be used...

 

[JRHAWK9]

Side question.. how exact plumb does the baro have to be?

dead nuts level both horizontally and vertically.

 

[brenndatomu]

And just to be clear...the baro itself needs to be level...but the tee will follow the stove pipe angle, you rotate the baro in the tee to get level, then clamp it down.

 

[maple1]

If it is a tiny bit out of level, that might be able to be compensated for in the weight adjustment. Depending which way it is out of level. You do want the flapper to close itself tightly when there is no draft pulling it shut though - so you don't want it out of level that way. Which I guess maybe technically wouldn't be levelness, rather plumbness. Hard to explain exactly. And you don't want it to hang up or catch in its motion - which out of level could also cause. Some dampers worse than others.

 

[brenndatomu]

If it is a tiny bit out of level, that might be able to be compensated for in the weight adjustment. Depending which way it is out of level. You do want the flapper to close itself tightly when there is no draft pulling it shut though - so you don't want it out of level that way. Which I guess maybe technically wouldn't be levelness, rather plumbness. Hard to explain exactly. And you don't want it to hang up or catch in its motion - which out of level could also cause. Some dampers worse than others.

I don't think there is a better baro out there than a Fields...and I've had problems with mine sticking when it was initially installed by eye instead of using a level...no problems after leveling though. (and it wasn't that far off)

 

[maple1]

Ya that post was a bit risky - even with 'tiny' and 'might' in there. Sometimes those words get overlooked by some readers. I guess my point was if one is already installed and is a TINY bit out of level, you MIGHT be able to get it to work properly with some adjustment, rather than taking things all apart again & reinstalling. Although depending how it is out of whack, might not be a big deal anyway.

 

[brenndatomu]

rather than taking things all apart again & reinstalling.

No need to disassemble...just loosen the clamp and rotate as needed...or if the tee needs to be moved to adjust the plumb, just pull the 6 screws out (should be 3 in each side) rotate as needed, re-install the screws in a slightly different spot since the holes no longer line up.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

The crimped end goes into the non stove side right?

 

[brenndatomu]

The crimped end goes into the non stove side right?

No, the male end always goes toward the stove...that way if creosote runs down the inside of the pipe, it stays on the inside rather than running out the joint and causing a fire outside the pipe!

 

[brenndatomu]

Here's an idea...put the tee in, install the baro and try it...if you don't like it then you can always cover it with some heavy duty aluminum foil (I have done this in warmer weather when I didn't want the baro to open) or you can remove the baro and put a cap on the tee.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

No, the male end always goes toward the stove...that way if creosote runs down the inside of the pipe, it stays on the inside rather than running out the joint and causing a fire outside the pipe!

I must have something wrong as the t-snout appears to be the same diameter as the female end of the baro tee. The rest of my piping is from Woodland Direct is is the premium pipe without a crimped end.

 

[brenndatomu]

I must have something wrong as the t-snout appears to be the same diameter as the female end of the baro tee. The rest of my piping is from Woodland Direct is is the premium pipe without a crimped end.

Hmm, not familiar with that brand, can't say I've ran into that. Did you get this kit?
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-C...=dsa&msclkid=8c95)8aa03a011320224735a4fdeafd9
If so I'd maybe try to use the pipe adapter piece as a band clamp around the baro and the tee...or you could cut a 6" wide strip of sheet metal, x 24" long (or so) (maybe some left over ductwork metal?)
Or you could always cut into the pipe and install it the way the kit instructions say to...although I like the tee install better...seems more "quality" to me, plus it gives you the option of capping it off like I mentioned above.
Also, you could get a double male stove pipe adapter...can't remember what they are called exactly...crimped male on both ends, about 6" long...adapt it to your tee that way.
EDIT: Drawband would work too...basically what you would be doing with the strip of 6x24 sheet metal

 

[maple1]

No need to disassemble...just loosen the clamp and rotate as needed...or if the tee needs to be moved to adjust the plumb, just pull the 6 screws out (should be 3 in each side) rotate as needed, re-install the screws in a slightly different spot since the holes no longer line up.

Yes, you have a point there also.

 

[brenndatomu]

Does your tee have two "female" connections, the one on the side and on one end?

 

[maple1]

Thinking a pic may help here - I can't quite figure out post 90.

 

[brenndatomu]

Also, you could get a double male stove pipe adapter...can't remember what they are called exactly...crimped male on both ends, about 6" long...adapt it to your tee that way.

Guess its just called a male to male adapter...https://www.efireplacestore.com/cpf-73695.html

 

[brenndatomu]

3-2-1...

 

[Mrpelletburner]

The other day I had cut the excess pipe and added an inner sleeve. But the T for the baro still does not quite fit. Will have to look at it later.

 

[brenndatomu]

The other day I had cut the excess pipe and added an inner sleeve. But the T for the baro still does not quite fit. Will have to look at it later.

View attachment 233646

Why not install the tee in the 4' section of stove pipe?

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Why not install the tee in the 4' section of stove pipe?

That section is telescoping stove pipe and to allow the stove pipe to be removed, that straight run can be collapsed ~3". Also, because of how that section is angled, it might be a pain to relevel each time the pipe is removed.

Honestly, it is always a pain to remove the stove pipe as I have 2 adjustable 45-degree angles. Anyone that works with aligning up ductwork does not get paid enough.

I will have to post a photo later to better illustrate.

 

[maple1]

I know every setup is a bit different, but will you be needing to take your stack down? Much? I haven't had mine apart since I put my boiler in 6 years ago. Except to replace a rusty T. If I need to, I can slip a shop vac hose inside my pipe thru the baro flap and vacuum each way from that. I have a T on the back of my boiler I can also pop a cover off to clean ash out if needed.