I emailed them earlier I'm doubting that they will do a swap arnt the tundras more money
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Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
- Thread starter brenndatomu
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MSRP is about $500 more but they are only about $250 more at Menards...as far as comparing their regular price on the T1 (~$1750) to regular price of a TII ($1999) so if you ordered a TII (Menards not stocking yet) this week, they have their 11% sale on through Saturday night, that would put you at ~$1780 (+ tax)
Alright another question probably a dumb one... But is this price of steel part of the firebox? Meaning should the stove be ran at all with that crack present.
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No its not part of the firebox, as far as I can tell from that close up pic it is part of the HE cleanout box. I wouldn't worry about running it, there are several of us that have run with much worse than that (and in the firebox too) with no problems. Depending on what SBI does for you, after they have completed the claim you could drill a 1/8" hole at the tip of that crack (that will stop it from spreading) and then run it. I bought mine cracked and that's what I have done, it is fine. I plugged the hole with some furnace cement then too just to make sure there could be no air in or out through it.
Ok well that makes my day a little less crappy. Thanx now just curious as to what they will come up with
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jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
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jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
Just figured out why my ducts were overheating on high fire and the fan seemed less than impressive. I guess it should be noted to not use a very restrictive filter in these things. I was running a pretty standard furnace filter. Took it out to see man what a difference. Lower duct temps right away with way more air flow. I'm just gonna throw a bottom of the line filter in as I have filter media on my cold air returns
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
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How are your heat runs tired into the system. I ask because I'm trying to design my hvac
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jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
I have a 12 round takeoff on the return upstream of my primary furnace and have the two 8" into the top of the plenum of the primary furnace with backdraft dampers. I run a piece of plywood in place of my primary furnace filter to stop the air from looping. I need to get a backdraft damper for the return side to eliminate that still. I will take detailed pics and post or if u go to my other thread "this is where I wage war" you can see how my hotblast was hooked up and it's primarily the same.
Sounds pretty straight forward I'll check out the pics thank you.
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jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
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The filter that comes with it works well, it is a cheap fabric filter (looks like a thin/cheap allergen filter) if you use one of those really cheap fiberglass filters I think you'll be disappointed...static pressure goes too low and duct temps drop too far to heat the house...the air has to go through the furnace slow enough top pick up the heat (contact time)
Cheap and easy enough to try though...'cause YMMV...
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
I have a two story house problem is with a good filter it's going too slow and overheating the ducts. It's actually working perfect right now with no filter.
Ducts are nice and warm with excellent airflow! I think everyone's hvac situation is a little different. No two are the same lol
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
I don't understand what your asking. My stove pipe and flue are 6". My ducts are 8" with backdraft dampers if that's what your asking
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
In hindsignt, when I ran my return ducting, I wish I would have ditched the stock 15x20 filter, and used a bigger filter (say, 20x25). The current 15x20 works fine and I get enough airflow, but the bigger filter would have let me use blower speed 1 to get enough airflow, but with less electricity. Especially with a var speed blower slower than speed 1, every bit of reduced filter and duct restriction is reduced electricity and expense. I ran some numbers and figured I could have saved an extra $10-$20 per year with that bigger filter. Won't break the bank, but enough that I would have done it differently.
Happy fall folks,
Question for you. I am sure this has been asked/discused b4. How are you opening the damper for coal stage? I would like to have some type of setup to open damper anytime the stack surface temp falls below 150 degrees. What say you wise wood burners?
Question for you. I am sure this has been asked/discused b4. How are you opening the damper for coal stage? I would like to have some type of setup to open damper anytime the stack surface temp falls below 150 degrees. What say you wise wood burners?
Look back through here for @3fordasho posts, he installed (and I copied) his temp controller setup. It closes the damper whenever the flue temp goes over a programmed setpoint, and then also opens it if temps fall under a programmed setpoint
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I did something similar with a snap disc on the furnace flue collar. I put pictures and a diagram somewhere back in early 2016 I think, not sure what page. We need a table of contents for this thread.
I picked up a Tundra from Menards last weekend. Price was 1407 out the door but they have the stove on clearance and some rebates and with the current 11% rebate you end up getting it for about 950. Cant wait to get this thing hooked up as I have been using an old buck stove 2700 to supplement heat in an open floor plan home.
