Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
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maple1
Minister of Fire
So that's a magnetic guage? I've got one on my pipe, beside my probe thermometer. Mine might even be an Imperial too. They should not be relied on.
Does a Napoleon 1400 have a good sized heat exchanger like the Tundra?
Tundra does tend to run lower exhaust temps unlike many of the smoke dragons that Tundras are replacing...that's a good thing...a sign of efficiency
NO SMALL EXCHANGER AND SMALLER FAN have had it for 20 years I think it worked as good last year as it did the first year but as we get older our bodies like 72 more than 68 heated 1800 sq ft raised ranch style home with a finished basement real well until the temp got below -25F then it was time to turn on the electric furnace.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Just for some reference, I lit my boiler around noon & just came back from putting some more wood in. The Imperial guage said 100c, and the probe right beside it said 200c. That's 210f vs 390f. That was with a recovering fire. Very fuzzy memory makes me think mid burn would be more like 150c/300f vs 250c/480f.
I would hate to think what my flu temp really was if the Imperial said 450f.
I would hate to think what my flu temp really was if the Imperial said 450f.
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
hey guys break in burns on my unit are going well! However I have one question, on my first couple burns I seem to be getting a bit of condensation dripping from one of the joints in my brand new excel double wall chimney pipe. They were installed by a pro and are all going in the right direction, first thing i checked. Only seems to happen when shes cruising for a while and the secondaries are going. At first I thought this was maybe due to all the moisture in the firebrick, but now im starting to wonder. Should I be running this thing on high and letting the high limit close her down? Any help appreciated.
I had the same situation on my first burn thought either high water content in wood or a fair amount of moisture in the fire brick liner???
maple1
Minister of Fire
When asking about or comparing chimney/flue/pipe temps, you would also need to take into consideration exactly with what, how & where they are being measured. Just comparing two numbers is an apples/oranges exercise.
Also curious though what others are seeing for temps - along with the what/how/where of them.
Course that could have been posted already in this thread, and it would be pretty hard to find - this is quite the thread.
Also curious though what others are seeing for temps - along with the what/how/where of them.
Course that could have been posted already in this thread, and it would be pretty hard to find - this is quite the thread.
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
not sure i dont have a flue thermometer just a magnetic one I have on the heat exchanger door. it was reading just over 300f.
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
Hey Menards has the Tundra even cheaper right now..... And they just price matched me on the one I ordered and gave me 74.99 in in store
Until you've had a few long good fires in it don't worry about the moisture. During my first few fires i had a fair amount of moisture coming out the stack.(dripping)
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
10-4 I thought so as the second fire it seemed like allot less so hopefully the trend continues
Ok, Drolett experts: I need some advice and information. I took the bite on the Meanrds "Sale" knowing that they are only clearing old stock to make way for the new $1999.00 Tundra II. The store told me in Sept they would order one in. Well its now October and its not ordered. and now discontinued........ so I am getting some good old run around from the store... Good news is I am paid up and rebate is sent in.....That said I wanted to make sure I got a Tundra I (old model) with the new firebrick, the air inlet mod plate, and the new constructed front face plate. (someone stated they changed how they welded the front of the box together?) Correct me if I am wrong on any of this. Needless to say my local Menards has a Tundra S/N 7XX something it has the secondary air inlet mod but no firebrick for the front..I would like any advice possible. I am possibly taking a tracking a Tundra I and want to minimize my cracking issues.. (although I can and will weld the heck out of this thing if it does crack) I am not scared of cutting a hole through the front of my furnace and welding a tube into it hence my sold Hotblast 1500 with secondary burn.... I appreciate any advice. Thanks Anyhow Menards can order the new Tundra II for $1999.00..... I am hoping as a dissatisfied customer if this whole Tundra I thing doesn't work out.. maybe the Tundra II for Tundra I price will.... Not holding onto that happening!! LOL
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
If I could have gotten a Tundra for <$1000, I wouldn't have cared what kind they actually send me, as long as it comes soon.
If you receive a Tundra 1, then either they'll send you firebrick for the front, or worst case cut some firebrick (I have a post on one of these pages with dimensions for firebrick, maybe around Aug 2015).
Then, I'd add overtemp control that shuts the damper if things get too hot. That's been described a lot in these pages. In one version, people have inserted a temp probe into the flue and used a controller to cut out the damper. In another version, I used a snap disc on the flue for the same purpose.
Between the firebrick and overtemp control, I would hope your chances of cracking are much less. I have no way of knowing for sure, but even if you get cracking, then you could possibly get your money back, and enjoy your welding project. (FWIW, I haven't welded my cracks, and they didn't grow in my second winter with the firebrick and overtemp control.)
If you receive a Tundra 1, then either they'll send you firebrick for the front, or worst case cut some firebrick (I have a post on one of these pages with dimensions for firebrick, maybe around Aug 2015).
Then, I'd add overtemp control that shuts the damper if things get too hot. That's been described a lot in these pages. In one version, people have inserted a temp probe into the flue and used a controller to cut out the damper. In another version, I used a snap disc on the flue for the same purpose.
Between the firebrick and overtemp control, I would hope your chances of cracking are much less. I have no way of knowing for sure, but even if you get cracking, then you could possibly get your money back, and enjoy your welding project. (FWIW, I haven't welded my cracks, and they didn't grow in my second winter with the firebrick and overtemp control.)
If they can't get order another one then it sounds like that one is gonna be your machine. Wouldn't bother me any at that price. Like @DoubleB said, crack is no big deal, it just relieves the stress!
And yes, Drolet will send you any updates it needs for free.Mine was cracked when I got it, and it took a while but the crack did grow a bit until I drilled the root of the crack...hasn't moved since even with no welding. I initially planned on welding it but then decided to test how well just drilling it would work, just so I could report this for anyone else that has no access to a welder. I just drilled it and then worked some furnace cement into the crack and the hole, so far so good.
Like you said, no need to fear welding a crack on a steel stove, as long as the metal hasn't been burnt into a crisp, then it can be cut, welded, reworked many times using proper techniques.
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So heres the update on buying the now discontinued Tundra I. Drolet is no longer making the Tundra I and it cannot be ordered. However the Tundra II can be ordered and Menards has it $1999.00. That said they offered to sell me a Tundra II for 10% off. However the $300 rebate would not apply. So I passed on the Tundra II and took the Tundra I (it was $1099.00 out the door.) Of course you have the $300.00 rebate to use in store. I am looking forward to putting the electronics on this and getting some fires going.... tested my, maple, elm, Chinese elm, white oak, and ash wood and its all seasoned to about 11-14% moisture (some has seasoned for 2 years and the Chinese elm was just split last weekend but was dead fall...) Looks like its gonna be good winter. I hope no-one around here notices how cheap you can get the Tundra I.... otherwise I'll never sell my Hotblast!
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
Good morning all, New here obviously. If been reading thru this thread and I must say you all seem to have these things figured out. I have the heatmax purchased in 2014.it heats well but it's quite a headache..or,i havnt figured out everything you all have. I know these are picky about wood but most everything I burn is dead elm or ash that has been dead for awhile. I also think I noticed that not one of you run just the grates on the blower box. Is their a specific reason none of you do? I am installing a cold air return this year.....or what I can afford of one anyhow. But just curious as to everyone else's reasoning. Hope everyone enjoys their day sorry for such a long first post but I'll probably ask a lot more questions as my only advice on my install was looking at it and thinking yeah that should work.
