Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

[DoubleB]

Congrats! That's a pretty good deal.

I'm confused too. Serial No 734 lines up to about June 2014. My guess is you bought the display unit, and they agreed to ship the front firebrick which should arrive in a few weeks.

Either way, it sounds from your history that you will get the Tundra to work just fine even if something down the road needs fixing on your $1100 investment.

And welcome to hearth.com!

 

[crewchief264]

Crewchief, Tundra is hard to pass up at that price. The only question i have is did you have the option of having them order a new one with all the revisions? I believe what is going to save the new ones from cracking is the fact that the front face and heat exchanger are no longer welded together on new models. Also the firebrick they end up sending for the front face is junk. Its soft stuff and gets beat up bad loading and moving the wood around. Cutting an angle iron to cover the edge of the firebrick would be best. Mine were finished by seasons end. The top baffle cracked down the middle on mine and i am going to us that to make the firebricks for the front face this year. The guys on here are first class when it comes to helping someone out so ask away if you have any questions.

Hey builderml, Menards couldn't even order the Tundra on their system when I baught it. They said they would have to contact the vendor. Anyhow I baught it at that price... and the whole time I was thinking.....wouldn't it be nice if they shipped a Tundra 2! So to answer your question. Yes they are ordering one in. And before I sign for it, you better believe it will have the new intake system and fire brick.. Can you post pics of what to look for in the redesigned welding work verse the old? Thanks

 

[brenndatomu]

Yes they are ordering one in.

So how do you already know the serial #?

Can you post pics of what to look for in the redesigned welding work verse the old?

@Digger79 post #1491 on page 60 shows the way they do it on the newest ones (T1). The older ones had some welds in those areas. Basically if the heat exchanger cleanout box is not welded to the front face of what makes up the firebox, then you are good to go (I'm assuming the TIIs will be coming the same way)

But I'm not so sure you aren't better off with a older one, you don't seem like you are gonna be freaked out if it cracks (me either, heck, I bought it that way) and at that point you can turn it in for warranty, and then go weld it up and enjoy your "free" Tundra

 

[crewchief264]

You have it already or they had to order one for you...I'm not sure I follow you? Was it a display model? The display model at out local Menards has been there for 2-3 years. What is the build date?

The unit at menards is a few years old and I don't think that they will sell it. They stated that the Tundra was special order and it would take a couple weeks to come in but they were going to have to talk to the vendor and then get back with me on the details..... Who knows this could really work out well..... Last time I had a "box" store debacle I negotiated 2000 sq feet of hard wood finished flooring for half price........So I am waiting.... And looking forward to someone buying my Hotblast 1500... Its not a bad unit, and the modifications I have made has made it twice as good...... but I think that I can make the Tundra even better! Does that make sense? I am excited about adding some electronics into the firebox set up!

Maybe I'll dial in a few degrees of extra timing at the top end and fatten the fuel curve up and then change the injector pulse width for a sweet two step Ignition start up......... I mean I do have a free flowing exhaust system on this baby!

 

[crewchief264]

Congrats! That's a pretty good deal.

I'm confused too. Serial No 734 lines up to about June 2014. My guess is you bought the display unit, and they agreed to ship the front firebrick which should arrive in a few weeks.

Either way, it sounds from your history that you will get the Tundra to work just fine even if something down the road needs fixing on your $1100 investment.

And welcome to hearth.com!

Didn't buy the display unit.. they are ordering one in. I'll do a thorough inspection of it before taking delivery... any tips are welcome.. I am interested on the new fire box welding situations and also where is the build date and serial number location on the actual unit located? Thanks Guys.....

 

[jb6l6gc]

Didn't buy the display unit.. they are ordering one in. I'll do a thorough inspection of it before taking delivery... any tips are welcome.. I am interested on the new fire box welding situations and also where is the build date and serial number location on the actual unit located? Thanks Guys.....

Build date and serial number can be found on the fan casing on the back. Mine was installed 4monthes ago and I still have yet to break it in. It's been a stupid hot summer!

 

[Builderml]

Can you post pics of what to look for in the redesigned welding work verse the old? Thanks

Here are a couple pictures for you. I took one zoomed in and out so you are clear where to look. You can see the tack welds in the zoomed in picture at the tip of the red arrow is clearly broken. I didn't count exactly how many tack welds they have but i think about 6-8 along that line. To my understanding the newest models no longer have those tack welds allowing the two pieces of metal to move independently thus reducing cracking potential. Now i believe they are using some type of rope packing for that area. I guess you can look at it a couple ways. Take an older unit if it cracks you should get a refund from warranty or wait for the newest model. If you do get a newer model please keep us posted with how your making out with it.

 

[Builderml]

Build date and serial number can be found on the fan casing on the back. Mine was installed 4monthes ago and I still have yet to break it in. It's been a stupid hot summer!

In regards to "breaking in" I strongly advise you to light your first fire outside to burn everything off. Keep that nasty smell out of your house. Keep it going for a couple hours. Doesn't need to be anything crazy just getting it heated up and keeping it that way for some time will really save you a world of stink later. Here is a picture of when i fired mine up outside. Also i had a fair amount of water coming off the stack from drying out the firebricks. The top of the fan box was covered with water.

 

[jb6l6gc]

In regards to "breaking in" I strongly advise you to light your first fire outside to burn everything off. Keep that nasty smell out of your house. Keep it going for a couple hours. Doesn't need to be anything crazy just getting it heated up and keeping it that way for some time will really save you a world of stink later. Here is a picture of when i fired mine up outside. Also i had a fair amount of water coming off the stack from drying out the firebricks. The top of the fan box was covered with water.
View attachment 183466

Too late already installed. Already done a break in before on my upstairs unit when it was installed. Wasn't too bad. I'll just open windows

 

[DoubleB]

Didn't buy the display unit.. they are ordering one in.

Even better, you'll have an updated unit, it just won't be serial number 734 that's all.

 

[3fordasho]

Local Menards has a display unit with a sign stating that it can be purchased. It's the same unit that's been on display since they came to market. Don't think I'd be interested in a early unit unless it was really cheap, there have been too many updates that are necessary.

 

[brenndatomu]

I just noticed that Tundra 1 is showing "discontinued" at all Ohio Menards and that the Drolet site now has a Menards SKU # showing for the Tundra II...SKU 638-1422.
All but one of the Ohio Menards are showing1 unit in stock though...I'm sure it is the dusty ole display unit.

 

[brenndatomu]

Talked to the heating guy at Menards today. He said they are supposed to have Tundra II in stock at their main warehouse in the next few days. I asked if he had pricing info yet, he said $1999, so if you caught one on a 11% sale that would put you back in the range of their regular price of a T1, not too bad IMO

 

[3fordasho]

Menards closing out the Tundra's, $1034 after various rebates. Appears that only early serial number display units are available - though I didn't actually confirm that.

 

[jb6l6gc]

does anyone have any info on wiring in a thermostat? What type of thermostat and how to wire in? I find the price on the actual drolet one to be quite high considering it looks like just a very basic digital thermostat.
I have an existing thermostat for my electric forced air furnace and air conditioner, does it need to interlock with that somehow.
Any helpfull info on this would be appreciated. Starting to cool down this week, I plan to do the break in fires this weekend and finally get the old hotblast outta the basement.

 

[brenndatomu]

does anyone have any info on wiring in a thermostat? What type of thermostat and how to wire in? I find the price on the actual drolet one to be quite high considering it looks like just a very basic digital thermostat.
I have an existing thermostat for my electric forced air furnace and air conditioner, does it need to interlock with that somehow.
Any helpfull info on this would be appreciated. Starting to cool down this week, I plan to do the break in fires this weekend and finally get the old hotblast outta the basement.

Wiring a tstat to a Tundra is pretty easy, 2 wires, just follow the directions that come with the tstat. A basic stat like a FocusPro 5000 will do fine...or a 6000 gets you a programmable one. The 5000 can be had for $20 or less on fleabay...a bit more for the 6000, unless you want a fancy wifi one or something...gotta pay for that!
It doesn't need to hook to your electric furnace/AC at all unless you are tying the the two systems together and the electric heat or AC could kick on while the Tundra is still hot. A simple relay that opens the tstat circuit for the electric heat/AC whenever the Tundra blower is being called to run would solve that issue...and you would want backdraft dampers in the ductwork too...

 

[jb6l6gc]

Ya still working on all that. Used to just use a piece of ply wood in filter slot and make sure the other thermostat was off when I ran the hotblast.

 

[DoubleB]

I'd get comfy running the Tundra without a thermostat first to see how it goes, then worry later about whether you want to add a tstat. SBI blamed the cracking problems on people over-firing their furnace, yet that is exactly what you can get with a thermostat. Further, once I added a temp snap disc to open the damper once down to coals, I find that works much better than a tstat. I spent the time and money and extra hole in the wall to run a new tstat to my Tundra before I ever fired it, and now I wish I hadn't.

Your situation may be different, maybe a tstat is right for you, but it can't hurt to run without one for a few weeks.

 

[3fordasho]

Same here, hooked up a thermostat but never use it. Because of the size of my house (3400 sq ft) the thermostat would hold the damper open for hours on end. Good way to crack the crack the firebox and burn a lot of wood. A furnace like the Tundra burns most efficiently with the damper closed and good secondary action. Instead of the thermostat I (like others) have added additional damper controls that are well documented in this thread.

I'd get comfy running the Tundra without a thermostat first to see how it goes, then worry later about whether you want to add a tstat. SBI blamed the cracking problems on people over-firing their furnace, yet that is exactly what you can get with a thermostat. Further, once I added a temp snap disc to open the damper once down to coals, I find that works much better than a tstat. I spent the time and money and extra hole in the wall to run a new tstat to my Tundra before I ever fired it, and now I wish I hadn't.

Your situation may be different, maybe a tstat is right for you, but it can't hurt to run without one for a few weeks.

 

[Digger79]

does anyone have any info on wiring in a thermostat? What type of thermostat and how to wire in? I find the price on the actual drolet one to be quite high considering it looks like just a very basic digital thermostat.
I have an existing thermostat for my electric forced air furnace and air conditioner, does it need to interlock with that somehow.
Any helpfull info on this would be appreciated. Starting to cool down this week, I plan to do the break in fires this weekend and finally get the old hotblast outta the basement.

Be careful operating with that thermostat alone. Specially if you have the Tundra 1. Be sure you monitor your flu temps and keep them under 7-800 deg F. Many of us on here have found these stove we feel actually operate best with controls over how the fire burns rather than using a heat call device or a thermostat. I think the principle is you get more heat out of your wood thus more heat in the house when burns are controlled and optimal for complete combustion.

 

[Jacksprat]

Be careful operating with that thermostat alone. Specially if you have the Tundra 1. Be sure you monitor your flu temps and keep them under 7-800 deg F. Many of us on here have found these stove we feel actually operate best with controls over how the fire burns rather than using a heat call device or a thermostat. I think the principle is you get more heat out of your wood thus more heat in the house when burns are controlled and optimal for complete combustion.

had my first burn with my new Drolet Tundra and had a couple of observations hard to get flue temps over 300F and wish there was a way to keep the damper about half open rather than off/on Letting it burn today also , that way the furnace and fire bricks should has lost any moisture they had and will get it set up for the upcoming winter (warm here for the next 14 days so dont need the furnace on) thanks

 

[brenndatomu]

hard to get flue temps over 300F

External pipe temp? If so that equals ~600* (F) internal, which is plenty.

 

[maple1]

Uh, yeah, how & with what are you measuring those temps?

 

[Digger79]

Uh, yeah, how & with what are you measuring those temps?

U need an probe 4-5" connected to a thermometer. Most accurate thing i found an is quick an easy is an electricians multimeter that measures temps as well an comes with a probe for such use. Goes up to 1500 deg. Be sure you insulate the plastic on the probe w rock wool to keep it from melting! They do make probes that connect to temp controlers but getting a good one can be an issue. Yes u are likely measuring the surface an 300 is usually 6-800. Anything over 350 external is danger zone internal.

 

[Jacksprat]

U need an probe 4-5" connected to a thermometer. Most accurate thing i found an is quick an easy is an electricians multimeter that measures temps as well an comes with a probe for such use. Goes up to 1500 deg. Be sure you insulate the plastic on the probe w rock wool to keep it from melting! They do make probes that connect to temp controlers but getting a good one can be an issue. Yes u are likely measuring the surface an 300 is usually 6-800. Anything over 350 external is danger zone internal.

the temperature was measured approx 12 inch from the chimney exit of flu pipe is it harder to maintain flue temp with warm outside air used to have a Napoleon 1400 connected to this chimney and with the same gauge it would read 450F and with the Tundra I work hard to get it to 250F