Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

[brenndatomu]

On the inside? I only have spot welds on the outside bottom of mine that I can see.

None on the inside.
Huh, mine is welded the whole way except the bottom. What is your build date?

 

[DoubleB]

The blower is a PSC motor

How do you know that? Not doubting you, I just don't know and would like to have the ability to ID a motor.

 

[NateJD]

Build date late August 2014. Serial number in early 1300s. No welds on sides or top of clean out door. Both of yours are very early aren't they?

 

[brenndatomu]

Build date late August 2014. Serial number in early 1300s. No welds on sides or top of clean out door. Both of yours are very early aren't they?

Interesting...looks like you may be OK, with those tack welds broke free on the bottom it should be able to float. You should mark and monitor it under all different temp conditions, see if you can tell how much and when exactly it moves.
Yes, I have a first year model

 

[brenndatomu]

How do you know that? Not doubting you, I just don't know and would like to have the ability to ID a motor.

Well, I'm no motor ID expert, but I have always been of the understanding that most (if not all) of the "cheap" multi speed direct drive blower motors are PSC type

 

[Smoke Signals]

Mine looks like NateJD's, built near the end of September of 14. The far right tack weld is cracked and I see some stress in the paint around the top of the door on the left side.

 

[brenndatomu]

I see some stress in the paint around the top of the door on the left side.

The loading door?
Well, if those without the full weld are still cracking then that may explain why they went to the current design...not enough clearance. The HE box heats up, expands (height/width) and then is "stuck" in the front panel, not free to float

 

[Smoke Signals]

The loading door?

Yes, around the loading door. Cutting the welds as Nate suggested is a thought, would be pretty easy with a Metabo. My concern would be that it would void the warranty and the under writers approval.

 

[brenndatomu]

My concern would be that it would void the warranty and the under writers approval.

Yeah, I wouldn't hack on one that is still warrantied...mine is a warranty "rescue" so I can't really hurt it any. And I guess I should state again (I think I have said this somewhere here before) I realize that I am taking full responsibility for all these mods if anything ever happened. Don't copy me unless your are willing to take the gamble and your own full responsibility.
I should say too that I have met all CTCs, by a mile...and believe it or not, all the wood in my furnace room has been treated with a fire retardant.

 

[Smoke Signals]

...and believe it or not, all the wood in my furnace room has been treated with a fire retardant.

This last bit made me chuckle..... But yes, good call on the disclaimer. These things should not be undertaken lightly.

 

[brenndatomu]

This last bit made me chuckle.....

Hey, I may be a hack, but I'm a cautious hack!

 

[Byron21]

Not sure what I'm not understanding my HE door flanges aren't welded ether....I assumed those flanges were part of the furnace face plate , just bent out of the opening waste steel and they welded the corners.... for some reason I can't see your pictures Brenn

ps... Never mind I just went down and double checked mine they are no formed there is a small gap all the way around not welded ....sorry guys

 

[jb6l6gc]

Just to clarify. I've been watching this thread but I'm sure I've missed a bunch. As someone in the near future who wants to order a tundra or heat max have all the issues been sorted yet or should I still wait longer??? Dying to say goodbye to this hotblast!

 

[brenndatomu]

Sorry guys, when I went to do the bedtime load last night I realized that I am totally full of crap, the top of the loading door is 4" or so below the top of the firebox...so my theory is bologna!
What I was talking about could (would) still cause the cracking at the bottom corners of the HE box though...just not the ones at the top of the loading door...ooops...foot in mouth disease here!

Just to clarify. I've been watching this thread but I'm sure I've missed a bunch. As someone in the near future who wants to order a tundra or heat max have all the issues been sorted yet or should I still wait longer??? Dying to say goodbye to this hotblast!

I'm saying if you get one that was made more recently, then yeah, I bet it will be fine. I really think the design that Digger has will be fine...or you could wait a couple more months and get one of the new Tundra IIs

 

[DoubleB]

have all the issues been sorted yet or should I still wait longer???

Depends on your risk tolerance and how much you want/need to replace the hotblast. I would either get a Caddy or else wait until the Tundra has 2 years good track record. Even recently when SBI assured one of our members the cracking was fixed (front firebrick, etc.), the guy installed it and it cracked shortly thereafter.

 

[brenndatomu]

Even recently when SBI assured one of our members the cracking was fixed (front firebrick, etc.), the guy installed it and it cracked shortly thereafter.

To be fair though...it was run pretty hard...not that it should really matter as long as things didn't get too out of control, and I don't think that they did.
Of the two people that I know of that have run their Tundras really hard...they both had cracks pretty quick...but I don't know what the build date was on 'em, actually, get to thinking about it, the one was an older one

 

[jb6l6gc]

Sorry guys, when I went to do the bedtime load last night I realized that I am totally full of crap, the top of the loading door is 4" or so below the top of the firebox...so my theory is bologna!
What I was talking about could (would) still cause the cracking at the bottom corners of the HE box though...just not the ones at the top of the loading door...ooops...foot in mouth disease here!

I'm saying if you get one that was made more recently, then yeah, I bet it will be fine. I really think the design that Digger has will be fine...or you could wait a couple more months and get one of the new Tundra IIs

Tundra II's? I can wait through the summer but was hoping to have installed for next season.

Depends on your risk tolerance and how much you want/need to replace the hotblast. I would either get a Caddy or else wait until the Tundra has 2 years good track record. Even recently when SBI assured one of our members the cracking was fixed (front firebrick, etc.), the guy installed it and it cracked shortly thereafter.

The caddy is quite a bit more expensive no?

Even though my hotblast is a dirty girl at least she doesn't have a crack problem lol!

 

[brenndatomu]

Tundra II's?

It has been discussed several times here, the latest one is back on page 41.

The caddy is quite a bit more expensive no?

Around double(ish) depending on where you buy it.
You could go with the Heatpro...it was $2k at Menards here last week (sale) chances are that unit would be big enough that it would never be run hard enough to crack, even if they did have a tendency to do that (and I kinda doubt they will)

 

[jb6l6gc]

I have two 8" inputs on my trunk. What's the plenum like on the heat pro. 2k I wish tundra is $2400 here so heat pro would obviously be more. I just dont wanna buy a hunk. Kinda surprised as my fireplace Is made by sbi and I know a few ppl with their other brands of stoves that have no issues. Wonder why they can't seem to get this one right???

 

[jb6l6gc]

My hotblast as much of a pos as it is has been run pretty damn hard and it shows no signs of stopping! Pretty bad when ussc can make a more durable product that's features in my opinion are very inferior!

 

[Builderml]

Guess what guys?! I finally figured out why Tundras crack! They're made wrong! (Well, I guess I should say that SBI fianlly figured it out)
I am serious though, the HE cleanout box shouldn't have been welded to the face of the furnace. When the HE tubes heat up, they get longer...and they are attached in a very solid manner to the back of the firebox...so something has to give. Since they are attached to the front panel of the furnace, they are pushing hard on the top of this big flat panel...and it is welded to the firebox...so the "fulcrum" point (and weak point) is where the two come together...right at the top of the loading door...which is already a weak spot due to the square corners...and that causes a stress riser...and that causes cracks when the HEs expands and contracts a number of times. Carbon steel will crack pretty easy when flexed in the same spot repeatedly.
You might argue that the HE tubes and the firebox are both hot, so both expanded, but, they are not going to expand at the same rate sooo...and the HEs are being cooled by the blower (more so than the firebox I'd say) so there is that expansion/contraction fight going on too.
I figured this out last night after looking at pics of our new member @Digger79 's brand new warranty Tundra. He said the HE box is no longer welded to the front panel and there is rope gasket used to seal up the gap so all the blowers SP doesn't leak out there. There is a sheet metal cover used to trim out over the gap. After seeing his pic I went down and stared at mine for a while, and then the light came on...aha, that's what it is! And this explains why Caddys don't have the problem, due to the slightly different design, the HE box is not attached to the firebox like the Tundras are (were). So if the Heatpros are not welded there I say they will be crack free.
Here are the pics Digger sent me.

Brenn , I beat you to it go back and read post #973 , been away came back and had 2pages on hearth to read.

 

[Builderml]

Depends on your risk tolerance and how much you want/need to replace the hotblast. I would either get a Caddy or else wait until the Tundra has 2 years good track record. Even recently when SBI assured one of our members the cracking was fixed (front firebrick, etc.), the guy installed it and it cracked shortly thereafter.

Double you talking about me?? if you tell me the rev limiters in a car is set at 7000 rpm I'm gonna find it a time or two

To be fair though...it was run pretty hard...not that it should really matter as long as things didn't get too out of control, and I don't think that they did.
Of the two people that I know of that have run their Tundras really hard...they both had cracks pretty quick...but I don't know what the build date was on 'em, actually, get to thinking about it, the one was an older one

Run hard??? Never. OK.maybe once or 5 times

 

[brenndatomu]

Brenn , I beat you to it go back and read post #973 , been away came back and had 2pages on hearth to read.

I was thinking the same thing. The way those two metals meet they want to expand in different directions. I guess the stronger of the two is winning. No issue so far with the top two corners but that's also not welded.

DOH! But look at my post above...#1164...where I fessed up to being wrong
Wondered where you been hiding...go and get a Max and you disappear!

 

[Builderml]

Wondered where you been hiding...go and get a Max and you disappear!

Been busy with work lately. No Max yet gonna be around April. Still have the Tundra going, its really going to get a work out shortly. Calling for -8 here for the weekend.

 

[DoubleB]

Double you talking about me?? if you tell me the rev limiters in a car is set at 7000 rpm I'm gonna find it a time or two

Yea I couldn't remember exactly who and I didn't have time to go back to look. I won't name names, nor stop you from naming yourself.