Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

[Gearhead660]

My new Heatmax2 arrived last night at 930! Didn't expect it so soon. I've got it unpacked and examined. I hooked up some chimney pipe so I can fire it up outside tommorrow. Not sure if I'll View attachment 258926View attachment 258926View attachment 258927View attachment 258928View attachment 258929be able to sleep tonight!!
Question: how far open should the damper door be when the switch is on? It looks like it would only be open half way. I took things apart and there doesn't seem to be anything binding anywhere. The position of the damper control rod did not match the manual, so i adjusted it. This didnt change the length of travel however. If I adjust it so it opens farther, then it will not close fully. (Pics below.)
Also: does anyone know what the +/- buttons are for on the back of the control box?
Edit: apologies for the mixed up post! My phone does not cooperate......

That looks like that same amount my T2 damper opens, just need to make sure it closes all the way. The + is to see the actual plenum temp. The - appears to go through the setting, tried to figure it out, may be a way to adjust them. If someone knows, please share!

 

[brenndatomu]

The temp controller I'm looking at comes with a k-type sensor. Will this work?

I used a K type.

Is this thread meant only for first generation Tundra\heatmax? I can start another thread with my questions on installing,etc........

It has kinda morphed into both...but maybe it is time to do a T2 thread on its own...if nothing else maybe to document all the mods and how they are applied to the T2...you can place a link to your new thread here if you decide to do it.

 

[andym]

I go with the k type then.

I'll keep posting here for now. Most questions will mean the same answers whether the furnace is a 1 or 2. This thread has been a great help to me, so I'd like to keep it going.

I burned off some of the stink today. The wood I grabbed was not fully seasoned and with the outside temp being 60+ I didn't have real good draft. I left the damper open the whole time and never hit the high limit. The longest the circ fan stayed on was maybe an hour. Surface temp near heat exchanger door hit 400 once. I only burned a big armload all together. Moved it into the garage now so I can begin disassembly for the trip downstairs.

 

[andym]

Finally got the furnace down the basement stairs yesterday. I removed nearly everything that could be removed. (Partly just out of curiosity) What was left could not have weighed more than 325 lbs. I could easily manhandle it off the pallet onto rollers singlehanded. The only thing I needed a helper for really was to get it started down the 2x4 runners I screwed fast to the steps. I pictured it sliding gently down, but failed to notice the downturned lower lip on the front of the unit as well as all the screws poking down. I sort of had to duck-walk it down the 2x4s. From there I used 2 1,000 lb mover dollies. Whole process including reassembly was about 3 hrs.

I don't know why they put that loop on top. At first glance it appears like a nifty way to hoist the whole unit. Closer inspection reveals that only the 2 smaller pipes are actually welded to the firebox. The center one is floating at the back. You couldn't pay me to lift my fully assembled heatmax2 in this way. I can't help but think that someone will try it tho.....

Bottom shot of center tube.

 

[brenndatomu]

I don't know why they put that loop on top. At first glance it appears like a nifty way to hoist the whole unit. Closer inspection reveals that only the 2 smaller pipes are actually welded to the firebox. The center one is floating at the back. You couldn't pay me to lift my fully assembled heatmax2 in this way. I can't help but think that someone will try it tho.....

I agree...I wouldn't pick from that loop either. That not being welded at the back there is one of the changes they've made from the original T1 design...they had all 3 of the HX tubes welded up tight on both ends on the T1's...things couldn't float as the firebox/HX tubes expand/contracted...oops, that's cost them some money!
Nice work on the elevation change there...I see you had the "big hoss" hooked up there for a bit

 

[Gbawol42]

Finally got the furnace down the basement stairs yesterday. I removed nearly everything that could be removed. (Partly just out of curiosity) What was left could not have weighed more than 325 lbs. I could easily manhandle it off the pallet onto rollers singlehanded. The only thing I needed a helper for really was to get it started down the 2x4 runners I screwed fast to the steps. I pictured it sliding gently down, but failed to notice the downturned lower lip on the front of the unit as well as all the screws poking down. I sort of had to duck-walk it down the 2x4s. From there I used 2 1,000 lb mover dollies. Whole process including reassembly was about 3 hrs.
View attachment 259262View attachment 259263View attachment 259264View attachment 259265View attachment 259266
I don't know why they put that loop on top. At first glance it appears like a nifty way to hoist the whole unit. Closer inspection reveals that only the 2 smaller pipes are actually welded to the firebox. The center one is floating at the back. You couldn't pay me to lift my fully assembled heatmax2 in this way. I can't help but think that someone will try it tho.....
View attachment 259267
Bottom shot of center tube.

I wont lie, I lifted my heatmax out of the back of my truck using that loop and a come a long attached to my garage rafter. Lifted it pallet and all, looking back I guess I was lucky. If that loop wasn't for lifting I wonder what it is really for? The stove was perfectly balanced lifting from there as well.

 

[brenndatomu]

Closer inspection reveals that only the 2 smaller pipes are actually welded to the firebox. The center one is floating at the back.

Can you get some close up pics of all around the HX cleanout door...where it comes through the front of the furnace there?
I remember hearing that the box is no longer welded to front panel like it used to be...it is allowed to float there too.

 

[andym]

Can you get some close up pics of all around the HX cleanout door...where it comes through the front of the furnace there?
I remember hearing that the box is no longer welded to front panel like it used to be...it is allowed to float there too.

I have it reassembled now so pics won't show much. You are correct about it not being welded. There is a rope gasket on the inside of the air jacket.

 

[andym]

I wont lie, I lifted my heatmax out of the back of my truck using that loop and a come a long attached to my garage rafter. Lifted it pallet and all, looking back I guess I was lucky. If that loop wasn't for lifting I wonder what it is really for? The stove was perfectly balanced lifting from there as well.

When fully assembled the sheet metal on the front and back would probably keep the heat exchanger from moving too much. The owners manual says nothing one way or the other which is strange. Glad it worked for you!

 

[sloeffle]

I wont lie, I lifted my heatmax out of the back of my truck using that loop and a come a long attached to my garage rafter. Lifted it pallet and all, looking back I guess I was lucky. If that loop wasn't for lifting I wonder what it is really for? The stove was perfectly balanced lifting from there as well.

Same here. I moved my Caddy with an engine hoist around my basement using the loop up top also.

 

[brenndatomu]

I have it reassembled now so pics won't show much.

Doesn't matter...on the outside, around the box is what I was after. Thanks!

 

[laynes69]

The loop is how they are transported around the factory. Mine isn't welded either and I had no issues with a tractor and boom down the outside basement steps.

 

[Gbawol42]

The loop is how they are transported around the factory. Mine isn't welded either and I had no issues with a tractor and boom down the outside basement steps.

Phew! Honestly if that loop wasn't for lifting they really should not have it there.

 

[andym]

Doesn't matter...on the outside, around the box is what I was after. Thanks!

The front of the firebox ends at the bottom of the hx clean out. There is a separate thinner plate that covers the rest (2nd pic).

 

[brenndatomu]

View attachment 259319View attachment 259320
The front of the firebox ends at the bottom of the hx clean out. There is a separate thinner plate that covers the rest (2nd pic).

Perfect, exactly what I was trying to see. Yup, quite a few little changes from the T1.

 

[Pwilli1989]

I have had this stove for 4 years and have heated my 1500sq/ft split level home with it 100% (NE Ohio). I have been pretty pleased with the unit, it does a good job heating the 1966 home for the most part, I do have some complaints but I think i would have the similar issues with any wood stove. It really likes DRYYYY wood, if you're trying to burn wood that is even a little green/ wet it is a creosote making machine with very little heat output. It does have a hard time keeping the house warm when the temp gets down into the single digits but that's probably more of an insulation issue rather than the stove itself. Anyway, the reason I am here is to give kudos to the company for what they did for me this winter. A couple of months ago, in the middle of the winter, I noticed a couple of cracks around the firebox which of course made me nervous. I took some pics and called the company. They are French Canadian so there is a little bit of a language barrier depending on who you talk to. Being that the firebox has a 5 year warrantee they were able to cover its repair/replacement. Glad this didnt happen next winter, I would have been out of luck. The first thing they did was have an engineer look at the cracks and they deemed it safe to burn while we figured out the details on how to get it fixed. After a few days, they offered me two options, pay them $400 for them to ship me a new firebox or have a mobile welder come out and weld it up. (they included schematics on the weld job that needed done and also schematics on how to do the swap out myself) I called around to some weld shops and almost no one was interested in the job. I told the parent company SBI this and they said they would call around themselves, of course they found out the same thing I did, no one wanted to do it. They finally caved in and sent me the new firebox free of charge, i just had to do the install myself. Took me and another guy maybe an hour and 6 beers to do the job and i have a brand new firebox in my basement. Now I have a cracked firebox in my garage, not sure if i should sell it or scrap it or save for parts. All in all it i am very pleased that it was covered under warrantee and I feel much safer burning in it. Hope this helps someone else out! -Pat

 

[3fordasho]

All original Tundra/Heatmax will do this eventually, sooner if run hard and later if retrofitted with some of the aftermarket controls detailed earlier in this very thread. I have two, one installed in 2015 to heat my 3400sqft house. I fitted temp controller almost right away and it was crack free for the first four years and finally developed some hairline cracks that you have to shine a bright light on to see. I assume they will get worse over time but as some have found they really don't effect performance or safety of the unit. (in my and some others opinion) The cracks will not let smoke out into your living space if your chimney draft is in spec, only a little more combustion air in which the unit needs a little more anyway in most cases. (maybe not if you've got an over drafting chimney)
My second unit is installed in a shop and not run as much but is run a bit harder, so far no cracks on that unit yet. This cracking issue is the reason there is a "Tundra II" - they redesigned how the firebox / heat exchanger is welded to allow the necessary expansion and contraction. Overall the Tundra is a pretty good wood furnace and is better than anything the box stores offer now. Only thing better is the Caddy Line by the same parent company and of course the Cadillac- Kuuma Vaporfire 100/200

I have had this stove for 4 years and have heated my 1500sq/ft split level home with it 100% (NE Ohio). I have been pretty pleased with the unit, it does a good job heating the 1966 home for the most part, I do have some complaints but I think i would have the similar issues with any wood stove. It really likes DRYYYY wood, if you're trying to burn wood that is even a little green/ wet it is a creosote making machine with very little heat output. It does have a hard time keeping the house warm when the temp gets down into the single digits but that's probably more of an insulation issue rather than the stove itself. Anyway, the reason I am here is to give kudos to the company for what they did for me this winter. A couple of months ago, in the middle of the winter, I noticed a couple of cracks around the firebox which of course made me nervous. I took some pics and called the company. They are French Canadian so there is a little bit of a language barrier depending on who you talk to. Being that the firebox has a 5 year warrantee they were able to cover its repair/replacement. Glad this didnt happen next winter, I would have been out of luck. The first thing they did was have an engineer look at the cracks and they deemed it safe to burn while we figured out the details on how to get it fixed. After a few days, they offered me two options, pay them $400 for them to ship me a new firebox or have a mobile welder come out and weld it up. (they included schematics on the weld job that needed done and also schematics on how to do the swap out myself) I called around to some weld shops and almost no one was interested in the job. I told the parent company SBI this and they said they would call around themselves, of course they found out the same thing I did, no one wanted to do it. They finally caved in and sent me the new firebox free of charge, i just had to do the install myself. Took me and another guy maybe an hour and 6 beers to do the job and i have a brand new firebox in my basement. Now I have a cracked firebox in my garage, not sure if i should sell it or scrap it or save for parts. All in all it i am very pleased that it was covered under warrantee and I feel much safer burning in it. Hope this helps someone else out! -Pat

 

[Gearhead660]

Looking to get feedback from all that have a Tundra in their shop/garage. I have a 30 x 30 shop with 10' ceilings. Converted old machine shed, has insulation but not airtight by any means. Saw a used Tundra at a fair price. Wondering if it would keep it warm or if I should stick with the plan of using an older wood furnace.

 

[trx250r87]

Looking to get feedback from all that have a Tundra in their shop/garage. I have a 30 x 30 shop with 10' ceilings. Converted old machine shed, has insulation but not airtight by any means. Saw a used Tundra at a fair price. Wondering if it would keep it warm or if I should stick with the plan of using an older wood furnace.

I can't give feedback about heating a garage/shop but I do heat a 1700+ square foot ranch with cathedral ceilings plus basement in Northern WI with a Tundra. What temperature are you expecting to keep it at?

Eric

 

[JRHAWK9]

Looking to get feedback from all that have a Tundra in their shop/garage. I have a 30 x 30 shop with 10' ceilings. Converted old machine shed, has insulation but not airtight by any means. Saw a used Tundra at a fair price. Wondering if it would keep it warm or if I should stick with the plan of using an older wood furnace.

IMO, you'd be better off with something which is capable of more raw BTU output. You'd probably be heating the shop from an un-heated cold state and would want it heated up in short order. This is going to take some serious BTU's to overcome the cold air temp inside the shop and all the thermal mass you'd have to heat up PLUS whatever heat loss the building has. A newer furnace may be able to keep it heated (once heated), but it may not be capable of heating it up from an unheated state to a heated state in short order.

 

[Gearhead660]

I can't give feedback about heating a garage/shop but I do heat a 1700+ square foot ranch with cathedral ceilings plus basement in Northern WI with a Tundra. What temperature are you expecting to keep it at?

Eric

currently keep it around 60 with propane heater. would love to have it 70-75.

 

[Gearhead660]

IMO, you'd be better off with something which is capable of more raw BTU output. You'd probably be heating the shop from an un-heated cold state and would want it heated up in short order. This is going to take some serious BTU's to overcome the cold air temp inside the shop and all the thermal mass you'd have to heat up PLUS whatever heat loss the building has. A newer furnace may be able to keep it heated (once heated), but it may not be capable of heating it up from an unheated state to a heated state in short order.

Depends how much time I get to work out there, but would have frequent warm ups from a cold state. Could use propane heater to help bring up temp on cold starts. I was thinking same issue for the Tundra but wanted to get real user inputs.

 

[brenndatomu]

Depends how much time I get to work out there, but would have frequent warm ups from a cold state. Could use propane heater to help bring up temp on cold starts. I was thinking same issue for the Tundra but wanted to get real user inputs.

If you use the pro-pain to boost the temp up from ambient then a Tundra might do fine for you...but without help it will take way too long IMO

 

[3fordasho]

If you use the pro-pain to boost the temp up from ambient then a Tundra might do fine for you...but without help it will take way too long IMO

This. I have a Tundra in a 39x60' quonset style building - much higher than 10' at the peak. Spray foamed wood structure but leaky foundation, un-insulated concrete floor. I keep it just above freezing with propane heat when not in there. The Tundra would take forever to bring temps up so I run the 120k propane unit heater about 15 mn and then the wood pretty much can maintain. I always have 5-10% left in my 125 gallon propane tank at the end of the heating season. (one fill per season). I don't shoot for 70-75f though, usually 65F or so.

 

[Gearhead660]

This. I have a Tundra in a 39x60' quonset style building - much higher than 10' at the peak. Spray foamed wood structure but leaky foundation, un-insulated concrete floor. I keep it just above freezing with propane heat when not in there. The Tundra would take forever to bring temps up so I run the 120k propane unit heater about 15 mn and then the wood pretty much can maintain. I always have 5-10% left in my 125 gallon propane tank at the end of the heating season. (one fill per season). I don't shoot for 70-75f though, usually 65F or so.

70-75 may have been a bit much...68 ish at most. Will have to see how much they are willing to deal on the Tundra. Otherwise i have an old wood furnace i will fix up and run.