Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

[3fordasho]

70-75 may have been a bit much...68 ish at most. Will have to see how much they are willing to deal on the Tundra. Otherwise i have an old wood furnace i will fix up and run.

FYI -I have a new Tundra from a Menards closeout. PM if interested, I'll only ask what I got into it which might be cheaper than your used unit. Now that I've installed a boiler I don't think I'll ever have a use for it. Pretty sure I have the updated front firebrick kit for it too from Drolet. I'm near Mankato, MN.

 

[trx250r87]

@Gearhead660 check your private messages.

Eric

 

[Gearhead660]

FYI -I have a new Tundra from a Menards closeout. PM if interested, I'll only ask what I got into it which might be cheaper than your used unit. Now that I've installed a boiler I don't think I'll ever have a use for it. Pretty sure I have the updated front firebrick kit for it too from Drolet. I'm near Mankato, MN.

The seller was asking $800. Looks like you are about 4 hrs from me.

 

[3fordasho]

The seller was asking $800. Looks like you are about 4 hrs from me.

I'd let it go for $600 but you'd have to come get it. It's still on the pallet and I can load with the tractor or skid steer.

 

[trx250r87]

I'd let it go for $600 but you'd have to come get it. It's still on the pallet and I can load with the tractor or skid steer.

That's a great price! Someone should jump in this!

 

[brenndatomu]

I have a new Tundra from a Menards closeout.

This is a T1?

 

[3fordasho]

This is a T1?

correct

 

[Gearhead660]

I'd let it go for $600 but you'd have to come get it. It's still on the pallet and I can load with the tractor or skid steer.

I would kick myself for passing up on this, but just checked and you're 5 hrs from me...don't have the time for a long day trip current. If I do get an open day, I will PM you to see if you still have it.

 

[brenndatomu]

I would kick myself for passing up on this, but just checked and you're 5 hrs from me...don't have the time for a long day trip current. If I do get an open day, I will PM you to see if you still have it.

Meh, I drove 8 hours for my VF100...
That's when I also met @DoubleB and his lovely family...proper hosts they are!

 

[3fordasho]

I would kick myself for passing up on this, but just checked and you're 5 hrs from me...don't have the time for a long day trip current. If I do get an open day, I will PM you to see if you still have it.

No problem, I'm not actively trying to sell it.

 

[Gearhead660]

No problem, I'm not actively trying to sell it.

If you got the room, its nice to sit on things you may use later...I seem to have that problem anyways.

 

[3fordasho]

The air lnlet damper motor failed on my shop Tundra. I was wondering why it was taking so long to to heat up and why the glass was turning black. I'd blame it on my controls causing it to actuate more often but it has many less hours than the one in the house and that one's still working. Oh well, it's about to be replaced with a boiler set up in the next few days anyway.

 

[trx250r87]

The air lnlet damper motor failed on my shop Tundra. I was wondering why it was taking so long to to heat up and why the glass was turning black. I'd blame it on my controls causing it to actuate more often but it has many less hours than the one in the house and that one's still working. Oh well, it's about to be replaced with a boiler set up in the next few days anyway.

I had one fail within the 1st year of owning the furnace. SBI replaced it under warranty and was good ever since. If I recall correctly, they are rather pricy!

Eric

 

[3fordasho]

I had one fail within the 1st year of owning the furnace. SBI replaced it under warranty and was good ever since. If I recall correctly, they are rather pricy!

Eric

Looks like about $140. I have not pulled the cover, maybe the rod just got disconnected.

 

[3fordasho]

The damper motor in my Tundra is a Honeywell M847A1031 which has been replaced by:
M847A1080 - Honeywell M847A1080 - 24V 2 Position Damper Actuator w/ Chain Linkage (supplyhouse.com)
About $50 cheaper from Supplyhouse.com

 

[Gbawol42]

Little secondary burn porn.

So much happier this year with the heatmax ii. My stove never got this hot last year with the only 1 year seasoned wood. This year the 2 year seasoned wood is night and day easier and hotter to burn. Not only that but I'm getting almost 2 hours more in between reloads.

This is about 1.5 hours into the burn. Plenum temp is around 145 degree and still rising.

 

[FixedGearFlyer]

Little secondary burn porn.

So much happier this year with the heatmax ii. My stove never got this hot last year with the only 1 year seasoned wood. This year the 2 year seasoned wood is night and day easier and hotter to burn. Not only that but I'm getting almost 2 hours more in between reloads.

This is about 1.5 hours into the burn. Plenum temp is around 145 degree and still rising.

View attachment 268625

Mmmm. So good.

Have you put the temp controller mod on your HeatMax? (Sorry if I missed that somewhere in the annals of this thread!)

 

[Gbawol42]

Mmmm. So good.

Have you put the temp controller mod on your HeatMax? (Sorry if I missed that somewhere in the annals of this thread!)

Oh yeah, temp controll and a timer. Pretty much load and go. The way it should be.

Still tweaking here and there but for the most part the fire part is dialed in. Just messing with thoughts of installing an OAK and somehow connecting to my return vents. Right now I just have the intake for the blower sucking from the ceiling, which is nice but I still feel there is too much heat in the basement. I have a awkward setup in my basement where the stairs are and no easy way to run a line to my current return.

 

[TDD11]

The air lnlet damper motor failed on my shop Tundra. I was wondering why it was taking so long to to heat up and why the glass was turning black. I'd blame it on my controls causing it to actuate more often but it has many less hours than the one in the house and that one's still working. Oh well, it's about to be replaced with a boiler set up in the next few days anyway.

Funny you post that. I need to take a multimeter and confirm my damper motor also died. I noticed the glass turning black also - but admittedly, I thought it was from my wife loading the stove and not setting the timer like I taught her.
Noticed when time for reloading though, that the damper is still closed on a cool stove. Checked before bed last night and the rod is connected. Thought I'd poke around with a meter before order a damper motor.

The damper motor in my Tundra is a Honeywell M847A1031 which has been replaced by:
M847A1080 - Honeywell M847A1080 - 24V 2 Position Damper Actuator w/ Chain Linkage (supplyhouse.com)
About $50 cheaper from Supplyhouse.com

Thanks for this link!

 

[TDD11]

One more update. I have had frustrations with smoke spillage. I had setup A in the diagram - so effectively I had 3 90° elbows in the system. I have a clean 26' liner, so that was not the problem.
I bought an adjustable elbow connector for my chimney liner, to replace the tee snout connection. , and opened up the block wall where my chimney is, so that I could run a pipe at 45° to the bottom of the chimney liner.
The setup drafts awesome now, and no more smoke spillage! I can rake ashes, shovel ashes out of the stove, etc, and not have spillage into the room. I do need to add a barometric damper now - as I have too much draft when flue temps are over 200°F.

 

[trx250r87]

One more update. I have had frustrations with smoke spillage. I had setup A in the diagram - so effectively I had 3 90° elbows in the system. I have a clean 26' liner, so that was not the problem.
I bought an adjustable elbow connector for my chimney liner, to replace the tee snout connection. , and opened up the block wall where my chimney is, so that I could run a pipe at 45° to the bottom of the chimney liner.
The setup drafts awesome now, and no more smoke spillage! I can rake ashes, shovel ashes out of the stove, etc, and not have spillage into the room. I do need to add a barometric damper now - as I have too much draft when flue temps are over 200°F.View attachment 268959

When my motor died on my T1 I think it still made noise but would not open the front damper door. It was either too weak to turn or something was stripped out internally.

Eric

 

[3fordasho]

Funny you post that. I need to take a multimeter and confirm my damper motor also died. I noticed the glass turning black also - but admittedly, I thought it was from my wife loading the stove and not setting the timer like I taught her.
Noticed when time for reloading though, that the damper is still closed on a cool stove. Checked before bed last night and the rod is connected. Thought I'd poke around with a meter before order a damper motor.

Thanks for this link!

So I took the damper motor out of my house Tundra and swapped into my shop tundra. Last time it was fired it worked but after the swap it was sticky and would not shut all the way. I was able to get it to work by spraying some light lube on the gears in the damper motor.
I know it's a brand name (Honeywell) but it seems a little weak and marginal for this application. Opening the damper is powered but close is all spring so it doesn't take much for it to bind up.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

I had setup A in the diagram - so effectively I had 3 90° elbows in the system. I have a clean 26' liner, so that was not the problem.
I bought an adjustable elbow connector for my chimney liner, to replace the tee snout connection. , and opened up the block wall where my chimney is, so that I could run a pipe at 45° to the bottom of the chimney liner.

I have a similar setup, with a tee snout connection and a 32' liner. I have 2 adjustable elbows between the unit and the wall which equals 1 90°.

What did you buy for the adjustable elbow and straight pipe to pass through the wall?

 

[TDD11]

So I took the damper motor out of my house Tundra and swapped into my shop tundra. Last time it was fired it worked but after the swap it was sticky and would not shut all the way. I was able to get it to work by spraying some light lube on the gears in the damper motor.
I know it's a brand name (Honeywell) but it seems a little weak and marginal for this application. Opening the damper is powered but close is all spring so it doesn't take much for it to bind up.

Do you think the gears should be lubed annually? I have not pulled the damper motor - but the replacement is supposed to arrive today and I will open up the old one up.

I have a similar setup, with a tee snout connection and a 32' liner. I have 2 adjustable elbows between the unit and the wall which equals 1 90°.

What did you buy for the adjustable elbow and straight pipe to pass through the wall?

I had 2 adjustable elbows , but they were probably 80-85° each.

I had bought my liner from Rockford Chimney, and they offer this adjustable elbow.

Chimney Liner Elbows: Adjustable Stainless Steel Liner Elbow for Offset - Rockford Chimney

Chimney liner elbows: Adjustable, stainless steel elbows for flexible chimney liners. Quick connect band clamp for easy installation. Free Shipping.

www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

I also bought their telescoping pipe for the diagonal run.

Telescoping Single Wall Stove Pipe - Black Wood Stove Pipe - Rockford Chimney

Telescoping single wall stove pipe adjusts height of single wall black stove pipe. Small telescoping size adjusts 18 to 30 inch & Large size adjusts 38 to 70 inch.

www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

Word of warning - the black telescoping pipe will not work with the Vogelzang Barometric Damper - hence why I don't have a damper installed yet.

 

[brenndatomu]

the black telescoping pipe will not work with the Vogelzang Barometric Damper

That VZ baro isn't worth the box it comes in!
Get a Field baro...only $5 more from SH...

6-RC - Field Controls 6-RC - 6" Draft Regulator for Wood, Oil, or Coal

Field Controls 6-RC - 6" Draft Regulator for Wood, Oil, or Coal - The Field RC is furnished as standard equipment on many leading brands of oil or coal-fired heating equipment. It is calibrated to allow for easy adjustment to the furnace or boiler manufacturer?s specifications. Designed for...

www.supplyhouse.com