Do I need a key damper?

[Itslay90]

If you have ceiling fans use them on low to help circulate air….blowing down. Give it some time.

Make one change at a time and then give it an hour or three. That’s the only way to isolate what works and what doesn’t.

However, if one direction of your ceiling fan on the top floor doesn’t help, then for gosh sakes don’t be afraid to try reversing the ceiling fan to pull air upward. You never know what will work.

For now, ceiling fans on low blowing down, floor fan on low near door at top of stairs blowing to basement, another floor fan at furthest end of basement blowing towards stove….floor fans always blow cool air towards the stove.

Thank you. I will try everything and get back to y’all next week

 

[Hoytman]

By the way…you need to be taking notes because if your memory is getting like mine, I’d forget what change I made. Go ahead and write down the things you did prior, like adding the pipe damper and insulating the basement, where you placed fans, etc. Make yourself a checklist of sorts, things done, things to do. Organize it into a chart…even do it all on computer if you’re that type. That’ll help organize it all.

Make notes on time of year, record inside and outside temperatures, sun, high winds as well. Stove running temperatures those days and pipe temps also.

Don’t forget to occasionally have your chimney inspected to monitor for creosote, install/change batteries in smoke and CO alarms.

 

[Itslay90]

By the way…you need to be taking notes because if your memory is getting like mine, I’d forget what change I made. Go ahead and write down the things you did prior, like adding the pipe damper and insulating the basement, where you placed fans, etc. Make yourself a checklist of sorts, things done, things to do. Organize it into a chart…even do it all on computer if you’re that type. That’ll help organize it all.

Make notes on time of year, record inside and outside temperatures, sun, high winds as well. Stove running temperatures those days and pipe temps also.

Don’t forget to occasionally have your chimney inspected to monitor for creosote, install/change batteries in smoke and CO alarms.

Thank you, I really appreciate that will do

 

[stoveliker]

One key aspect is to give it a few hours before you see a (half degree) change upstairs.
This will need to be a slow and steady approach., but if you keep the basement warm, over time, if you're consistent, it'll work.

When I start my stove in a cold basement, it'll take 3-4 hrs to see a slight change upstairs. (With the forced airflow I described earlier.)
The nice thing is that when my stove goes cold, the heat reservoir in the basement will keep heating my home often for 10-12 hrs (noting that the stove goes cold when it's around 40-45 outside, so I don't need a lot of heat then to keep the upstairs warm).

 

[weee123]

Despite what some say, adjusting a stove pipe damper closed some and opening the stove air controls will increase stove temperature and room temperature.

This is how I use my key damper. I get everything up to temp, and then based off my manometer get draft into spec and then open up the air on the stove some more

 

[stoveliker]

By all reports the stove is now running well. This advice may be well intentioned but it is redundant and not an issue.

I think the point by hoytman is that the question of needing a key damper can only be answered by a flue probe....

In any case it's hard to keep track of the data here..

 

[Itslay90]

One key aspect is to give it a few hours before you see a (half degree) change upstairs.
This will need to be a slow and steady approach., but if you keep the basement warm, over time, if you're consistent, it'll work.

When I start my stove in a cold basement, it'll take 3-4 hrs to see a slight change upstairs. (With the forces airflow I described earlier.)
The nice thing is that when my drive goes cold, the heat reservoir in the basement will keep heating my home often for 19-12 hrs (noting that the stove goes cold when it's around 40-45 outside, so I don't need a lot of heat then to keep the upstairs warm).

I think

One key aspect is to give it a few hours before you see a (half degree) change upstairs.
This will need to be a slow and steady approach., but if you keep the basement warm, over time, if you're consistent, it'll work.

When I start my stove in a cold basement, it'll take 3-4 hrs to see a slight change upstairs. (With the forces airflow I described earlier.)
The nice thing is that when my drive goes cold, the heat reservoir in the basement will keep heating my home often for 19-12 hrs (noting that the stove goes cold when it's around 40-45 outside, so I don't need a lot of heat then to keep the upstairs warm).

yeah. I think that’s the problem, I’m rushing it and not giving it time. I think I’m just used to the timberline and the
Quickness of heat that I got, but this one needs to heat up everything before it can start heating my house

 

[begreen]

I think the point by hoytman is that the question of needing a key damper can only be answered by a flue probe....

In any case it's hard to keep track of the data here..

IIRC the stove pipe is single wall. Reading with the IR thermometer was progress and probably adequate. Earlier on it was reported that PE suggested the key damper so it seems like the question was answered. You are right about keeping track of the data. This has been going on for quite a while with fragments scattered over many threads.

 

[Hoytman]

I think the point by hoytman is that the question of needing a key damper can only be answered by a flue probe....

In any case it's hard to keep track of the data here..

If I may make a slight modification to that….

The question of “using” a key damper can only be answered by a flue probe (or magnet thermometer) and better yet…a flue probe, or magnet thermometer, AND a manometer. Guessing is over then. Then you’ll know what your draft is, and know what your pipe temperature is.

You will then have infinite control over your stove, it’s temperature and your draft.

 

[stoveliker]

If I may make a slight modification to that….

The question of “using” a key damper can only be answered by a flue probe (or magnet thermometer) and better yet…a flue probe, or magnet thermometer, AND a manometer. Guessing is over then. Then you’ll know what your draft is, and know what your pipe temperature is.

You will then have infinite control over your stove, it’s temperature and your draft.

You are absolutely correct.

 

[Hoytman]

IIRC the stove pipe is single wall. Reading with the IR thermometer was progress and probably adequate. Earlier on it was reported that PE suggested the key damper so it seems like the question was answered. You are right about keeping track of the data. This has been going on for quite a while with fragments scattered over many threads.

You’ve said “many threads” a few times in this thread…(implying the person had posted info across different threads)…but I’ve only seen it mentioned in this thread. I haven’t seen any additional threads by him. My apology of some of the info was/has been covered by others.

That’s why it’s important not to intervene too much closing threads to quickly…as happens here a little more often than I feel necessary. They’ll run their course long as things remain respectful and civil.

I see on many forums where people aren’t necessarily all that tech savvy (like me) and they need help, and create multiple unnecessary threads. They don’t know what they don’t know, and usually they’re in panic mode needing real help. Not everyone coming here is young or knowledgeable about using forums. Yes, I questioned us being trolled, but then again I like to get straight to the point. Usually, enough probing reveals the truth. Pays for me to be patient with people, and I am. I like to help people and see them be successful at whatever I can be of assistance with when and if I can be.

 

[begreen]

Do a search. This saga has been going on for a while with the same questions asked and answered in several different threads. It seemed like the stove issues were finally solved last spring, but in Sept. the inquiries started again. At times it feels like a whack-a-mole.

 

[Hoytman]

Do a search. This saga has been going on for a while with the same questions asked and answered in several different threads. It seemed like the stove issues were finally solved last spring, but in Sept. the inquiries started again. At times it feels like a whack-a-mole.

😂

 

[begreen]

The stove from what we are told, is running well now. The tangent about heat on the other side of the basement is not related to a key damper in the stove pipe which is the thread topic. In a nutshell, if your stove isn't capable of maintaining a comfortable room temperature while operating in the cruise zone, you need a larger stove, a second stove, or a better-insulated house.

 

[ctreitzell]

What is it with people trying to run a stove and not knowing how much of their heat they’re loosing? That’s why there are oil pressure gauges, volt meter, fuel gauge, temperature gauge, speedometer, and tachometer on your vehicle…so you know how things are running rather than guessing.

I don't have any of the thermometers you speak of on the stove or flue
it's probably a good idea...
I have thermometers on the walls in the rooms of the house

I am learning a bit on this thread, tho

 

[Itslay90]

Do a search. This saga has been going on for a while with the same questions asked and answered in several different threads. It seemed like the stove issues were finally solved last spring, but in Sept. the inquiries started again. At times it feels like a whack-a-mole.

It wasn’t even the spring, it was in the fall, y’all told me to insulate the basement and I did. All y’all do is complain on here. I’m just trying to figure out this stove. It’s really annoying !! I don’t care how many times I write a post it’s a problem.

 

[Itslay90]

The stove from what we are told, is running well now. The tangent about heat on the other side of the basement is not related to a key damper in the stove pipe which is the thread topic. In a nutshell, if your stove isn't capable of maintaining a comfortable room temperature while operating in the cruise zone, you need a larger stove, a second stove, or a better-insulated house.

If I would’ve knew these stoves are garbage I would’ve just stayed with my timberline. You have to have a new built for these things to work. Everyone can’t be like you ! Everyone is on here to learn. Not to get pic on. I wrote you multiple times and asked you stuff, and you never want to respond to me, so what you want me to do ? So when I write a post, then you want to answer smh. It’s bullshit

 

[begreen]

My friend, I have answered PMs and many a posting, even when no one else did. I encouraged you to post publically so that others can benefit. I have probably spent more time on your posts than any other person. And yet it goes on.

Sorry if this hasn't been the solution. The new stove is not poop but the expectations may be. Sell the stove and put the old Timberline back in service if that does a better job. I'm done here.

 

[begreen]

It wasn’t even the spring, it was in the fall, y’all told me to insulate the basement and I did. All y’all do is complain on here. I’m just trying to figure out this stove. It’s really annoying !! I don’t care how many times I write a post it’s a problem.

I was in error, it goes back to Dec. 2022 with the overfiring of the stove.

I have a Pacific energy summit le

I had this stove for a year, and it only gets my house to 65 degrees stove is in the basement, and I can’t get this thing to circulate the heat, I tried fans, I tried the blower nothing works, seems like all the heat is going to the ceiling, i added pictures of my this is my set up. Maybe...

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