I don’t see no difference, the heat is not going to the other side of the basement. What am I doing wrong here ? I can it be an air circulation thing ? I have a small fan blowing cross the stove, the stove is hot. Can the heat be sucked out the stove and out through the chimney? I’m tried of this stuff I tried everything and nothing works. I turn down the air control so most of the heat can stay in my house. And it seems like something is wrong. Please help me the amount of wood that I’m going thru is crazy this stove never got my house up to 70
Do I need a key damper?
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I thought the objective was to heat upstairs. Is the basement wide open or are there partitions in between the stove area and the other side?
Hot air by it's nature is going to convect upward. If the hot air is convecting upstairs, none is going to make it to the opposite side of the basement.
Hot air by it's nature is going to convect upward. If the hot air is convecting upstairs, none is going to make it to the opposite side of the basement.
The stairs is in front of the stove. The heat goes up stairs. I was trying to move the hot air that’s around the stove, outward. So are you saying the heat will work its way over there by itself. With out using fans ? I know heat is going up stairs back the cold air is coming down the stairs and my floor vents. I think the draft is sucking most of the heat out the stove, so I started to close the damper, so that doesn’t happen
I know when I heat my house it’s not immediate. The downstairs heats quicker than the upstairs which is to be expected. How about trying to have a fan in the corner of the basement blowing toward the stove?
I tried that. That seems too help, but what I’m thinking now is that the draft is sucking out the heat, or I need to close my air control more. I leave it just lil bit open
If you have a flue probe you know whether you push too much heat up the chimney.
Heat convection up the stairs is not ideal. Cold air coming down created turbulence mixing the warm air going up.
I have a ducted fan that sucks air from my living room floor and deposits it on the basement floor. The stove burns, hot air rises to the ceiling and gets pushed up the stairs by the colder air being deposited on the floor.
I can keep my upstairs at 69-70 when it's 5 F outside with 50 mph winds.
Basement is 825 sq ft, upstairs 1200 sq ft (and the 550 sw ft above that is around 60-65 depending on the solar help).
Heat convection up the stairs is not ideal. Cold air coming down created turbulence mixing the warm air going up.
I have a ducted fan that sucks air from my living room floor and deposits it on the basement floor. The stove burns, hot air rises to the ceiling and gets pushed up the stairs by the colder air being deposited on the floor.
I can keep my upstairs at 69-70 when it's 5 F outside with 50 mph winds.
Basement is 825 sq ft, upstairs 1200 sq ft (and the 550 sw ft above that is around 60-65 depending on the solar help).
Along with the above… try blowing cold air on the floor (using a floor fan on low) from one side of the basement to the stove. Blowing heat off the top of the stove is like pi$$ing into the wind. Heat wants to rise rather than be blown horizontal. This heat exchange won’t always happen instantly, so give it several hours.
Why do I feel like we’re being trolled?
I do believe there are some people that shouldn’t have a stove in their home.
Yes I mentioned this to him above. I feel like some of this was already mentioned in a previous thread.
I’m not trolling Anyone, I been having this same issues for two years. And it’s tiring. And where should I put this other fan at. On the outside of the basement ? Upstairs some where ?
I know it was mentioned, but but I insulate my basement I don’t it will get better. like I said in the beginning, when the outdoor temperatures are in the let’s say 27 and 30° it does wonderful but for some reason when it’s cold cold outside it doesn’t.
You apparently have a stove pipe damper, but no thermometer on the stove pipe. You need thermometers on the hottest spot of your stove and one thermometer on or in your stove pipe depending on which type of stove pipe you have, single or double wall. Those are tools you should already own having bought a stove.
What is it with people trying to run a stove and not knowing how much of their heat they’re loosing? That’s why there are oil pressure gauges, volt meter, fuel gauge, temperature gauge, speedometer, and tachometer on your vehicle…so you know how things are running rather than guessing.
I said the opposite. No heat is going to go to the other end of the basement because it's all going upstairs. You are continually confusing the movement of air with stove operation. They are not the same thing.
Top of stairs…
You do realize the hottest air in the house is at the ceiling of the top floor of your home. That air cycles and falls to the floor as it cools…cold air lays on the floor. Help it move downstairs…put the fan at top of doorway (a couple feet back from the door opening) on low blowing down the steps and leave it on while you home, 24/7 if possible, and be patient.
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Despite what some say, adjusting a stove pipe damper closed some and opening the stove air controls will increase stove temperature and room temperature.
Already mentioned. Reread the posts. This is a large house IIRC. Or, if the stove is now heating upstairs well, then accept it as mission accomplished.
Unfortunately, the sprawling multiple threads on this topic have folks chasing their tails.
There are a zillion threads on "moving the heat". Search for them.
This would be for heating upstairs, which it sounds like has already been accomplished. The NEW complaint is that now he wants the basement to be evenly heated.
There are a zillion threads on "moving the heat". Search for them.
You still need a magnetic thermometer or probe thermometer in addition to the IR gun. What happens when the batteries die? You guessed it…back to guessing again. If the magnetic thermometer seems off then calibrate it by:
-removing it from pipe and letting cool to room temperature
-Slightly and gently move dial backwards just a little.
-replace on stove pipe
-allow to come to temperature and check with IR gun
-repeat above steps until magnet and IR gun are close.
They just need to be close is all. Whether magnet is off by 50-100 degrees is no big deal, just remember. It’s for reference anyway. However, the magnet can be calibrated to closely match IR gun. Just depends how prices you are or want to be.
Skin temperature on single wall pipe is about half of internal pipe temperature.
By all reports the stove is now running well. This advice may be well intentioned but it is redundant and not an issue.
If you have ceiling fans use them on low to help circulate air….blowing down. Give it some time.
Make one change at a time and then give it an hour or three. That’s the only way to isolate what works and what doesn’t.
However, if one direction of your ceiling fan on the top floor doesn’t help, then for gosh sakes don’t be afraid to try reversing the ceiling fan to pull air upward. You never know what will work.
For now, ceiling fans on low blowing down, floor fan on low near door at top of stairs blowing to basement, another floor fan at furthest end of basement blowing towards stove….floor fans always blow cool air towards the stove.
I already know what the new complaint is…and air circulation is the only way to do both to try to even out temperatures on both floors…key word “try”…and it will help “some” and that’s about it.
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