Creosote question Blaze King

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I do the same.
ANd I thought I was the only one going back and forth with the bypass sometimes if it doesn't light off immediately...
Interesting info. I find there is a lot of conflicting info sometimes regarding BK operations. I know every house is different but in regards to closing the bypass while it is in the inactive zone I thought that was taboo. lol
 
Interesting info. I find there is a lot of conflicting info sometimes regarding BK operations. I know every house is different but in regards to closing the bypass while it is in the inactive zone I thought that was taboo. lol
Running on an inactive cat is taboo. But the cat probe is a poor indicator of current cat temperature or activity in a quickly-changing environment. They're plenty good enough for steady state, but when the temperature is rising 100F per minute, the probe just can't keep up.

We are not running on an inactive cat, it's just the gauge hasn't caught up with our momentary reality. :)
 
I do the same.
ANd I thought I was the only one going back and forth with the bypass sometimes if it doesn't light off immediately...
Me, too. Although I usually don't go back and forth, if the fire is well established, it'll get hot enough to light off eventually.
I don't dial down immediately, though, to give it a chance to catch up.
 
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I remember reading on another forum that tendency toward rutting was almost directly related to tire diameter, with only a very minor dependency on tire width.
It's the ratio of the (axle) weight over the tire area that's on the ground, so both diameter and width, although that is influenced quite a bit by tire pressure. But I found that my front tires leave around the same depth in ruts as the rears do, just narrower.
I tried to keep the machine as light as possible without compromising stability. I think machine weight only really counts when you're running ground-engaging implements like a plow. That's why I don't have liquid in the tires, either, but a ballast box on the hitch (can't really see it in the picture) whenever I use the loader. I can't say for sure, but it's probably around 7-800 lbs.
 
It's the ratio of the (axle) weight over the tire area that's on the ground, so both diameter and width, although that is influenced quite a bit by tire pressure.
Yep, basic high-school physics, and that would be the case if tires were built like balloons. But based on multiple sources I've read, diameter is much more dominant than width, due to the fact that sidewalls are inherently stiff with reinforcement. Unfortunately, because we never really run the same pressure on front vs. rear, it's hard to really validate the logic here.

But I found that my front tires leave around the same depth in ruts as the rears do, just narrower.
I guess it might depend on tractor configuration, if you can actually get enough weight off the fronts to make that happen, but I've personally never seen that on any of the half-dozen tractors I've owned.

There's a reason most tractors run 2x to 3x more pressure in the front tires versus the rears, due to smaller size there's substantially more contact pressure on the fronts, especially on any machine with a front-end loader. My current machine runs something like 12-18 psi on the filled 41" rears, but 35 psi or more on the little 27" fronts.
 
I agree with Ashful and Stoveliker. I have a K-type EGT probe hooked to a digital display in my princess. I find that when I have an established fire on a cold start, I could close the bypass at around 350* and the cat light off. My display has a 1hz refresh rate and the temp rises at 5 to 10* per second until it's in the 800s.

Also on the other end of things, I rarely see cat temps over 1200* even on a brand new cat. So the pics you see of the stock thermometers rolled around at like 7 o'clock which makes it seem like 1800* has to be inaccurate. Hottest I've gotten was while doing an hour long burn out on high and it topped around 1450*.
 
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