Burn in Jotul 450
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Cityevader, A well sealed metal block off at some point in your future would be highly advisable. The rock wool should definitely do the trick in the interim, and many installers I have spoken with claim that this is how they do it on their installs. In my install I have a layer above my galvanized steel block off plate.The plate is tap conned with hi-temp silicone around the perimeter of the brick. You should see a very dramatic increase in heat output from your stove based on what I have been able to get out of mine. From a cold start 63 degrees house temperature and outside temperature in the teens, takes no more that twenty minutes to have the stove at good operating temperature. I easily can heat my lower level rec-room to the high 70's and the upstairs 1700 sf to the high 60's low 70's.I can very easily get good heat for 8 hours without stuffing the fire box and have plenty of coals to restart the fire. The fan is always still running in the morning also. Thanks to following Brents fire starting tips and the block off plate this stove is a delight to use.
JJEGLBS: I had to pull it all the way out. I bought a motorcycle lift for my Harley RK and probably used it more for insert shuffling, than the bike work so far. Also my stove is a super tight install, with the offset adapter. I welded support brackets to hang the adapter and flue exactly in position, and then removed the insert, fabricated the block off and installed it. That jack sure is a big help and I move the insert in and out by myself with the fire bricks in. Cheers, Happy Newyear!
Some member here suggest using sheet metal to cover the hearth and help with positioning. I used two strips of sheet metal to make it easier to slide mine into position without scratching the brick. I was able to slide it in and out to get accurate measurments, when done pick the front up a little and slide out. This will only work if your firebox and hearth are flush, as in a most masonry fireplaces.
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