2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 2 (Everything BK)

[chazcarr]

May be you are using your best and dry firewood stored for the worst weather that makes the difference?

No, doug fir at around 19% MC. It is really strange. I am wondering if ice in the chimney is narrowing my flue and therefore decreasing my draft. Best I can think of at the moment.

 

[Ashful]

How do you get such different burn times on the same setting? I understand that draft has more of an impact in the colder weather, but I’ve never experienced such a spread on my stove? Do other people get such different times?

Some people, incorrectly in my opinion, use the requirements of their house in their figuring of burn time. To me, burn time in a BK is active cat time, and burning two of them for 3.5 years, I’ve not noticed any dependency between outside weather and burn time, for a given thermostat setting.

If you use, “I need to load it every xx hours to keep my house warm”, or “I turn it up when it gets cold,” then of course weather effects your burn time, but that’s a different conversation.

One thing I can imagine is that if one runs an OAK, the variation in outdoor temperature would affect the the temperature of the thermostat, accordingly. In this scenario, a colder OAK supply would cause the thermostat to open the air more for the same t’stat setting, and this decrease burn time for a given knob position. It seems feasible, but I have no experience with OAKs on BKs.

 

[darktower007]

I learned the importance of dry wood. I went to the store and bought those Uber expensive packs of wood. Packed the Ashford 25 n/s as full as I could. From a cold stove I had an active cat in 20 min, and it was hot as hell on full blast in there!

Last night I packed the Ashford the same way with my normal soso oak MC was 21% externally non split Mc taken...It took several attempts to light it and once going fully.. it took the cat 1.5 hours to get up to temp. The wood externally must be moist, as it’s tarped and sometimes that tarp stays sometimes it doesn’t. After 4 hours it was going, but BTU out put was not that great.

So woods age and it’s MC is, as I’ve always heard, the key to a top performing wood heater. Now I really understand the moisture relationship.[emoji3]




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[lsucet]

One thing I can imagine is that if one runs an OAK, the variation in outdoor temperature would affect the the temperature of the thermostat, accordingly. In this scenario, a colder OAK supply would cause the thermostat to open the air more for the same t’stat setting, and this decrease burn time for a given knob position. It seems feasible, but I have no experience with OAKs on BKs.

That is my experience with OAK installed on one of the stoves. Now, at same settings when warmer outside due to less draft = longer burn. Same setting when colder outside draft increase and pull more air thru the firebox, it can get you hotter firebox plus faster wood usage, including if the thermostat stays closed, the preset/minimum amount of air set by factory ( what we call riding the hole ) allows more air in/thru due to higher draft. My theory BTW.

 

[Highbeam]

Some people, incorrectly in my opinion, use the requirements of their house in their figuring of burn time. To me, burn time in a BK is active cat time,

If you use, “I need to load it every xx hours to keep my house warm”, or “I turn it up when it gets cold,” then of course weather effects your burn time, but that’s a different conversation.

The noncat fanatics have to come up with some way to determine burn time and often they get really creative. I agree with what you wrote for BKs. It's like weird cordwood measurements like Ricks and Bush cords. You can use whatever you want for burntime definition but if you choose something non-standard you need to specify every time or else you will mislead somebody. I also think some folks intentionally mislead about burntimes this way in an effort to make some sort of point.

I keep my stat set on the "N" 95% of the time. It's either enough heat on average or the output tracks the outside temperature somehow. It just works. I also find the stat really sensitive, if you hit the big O (he he he) just one letter over then it gets much warmer. Of course fans also really change things.

 

[MissMac]

I learned the importance of dry wood. I went to the store and bought those Uber expensive packs of wood. Packed the Ashford 25 n/s as full as I could. From a cold stove I had an active cat in 20 min, and it was hot as hell on full blast in there!

Last night I packed the Ashford the same way with my normal soso oak MC was 21% externally non split Mc taken...It took several attempts to light it and once going fully.. it took the cat 1.5 hours to get up to temp. The wood externally must be moist, as it’s tarped and sometimes that tarp stays sometimes it doesn’t. After 4 hours it was going, but BTU out put was not that great.

So woods age and it’s MC is, as I’ve always heard, the key to a top performing wood heater. Now I really understand the moisture relationship.[emoji3]




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if your oak is showing MC on the outside of a log unsplit at 21%, i guarantee that it's wetter than that. do you have any drier wood to burn this winter? i'd save that stuff for another year.

 

[Ashful]

if you hit the big O (he he he) just one letter over then it gets much warmer.

I aim to hit the big O every time, with mixed success.

 

[darktower007]

if your oak is showing MC on the outside of a log unsplit at 21%, i guarantee that it's wetter than that. do you have any drier wood to burn this winter? i'd save that stuff for another year.

It’s some of the driest I have. My wood stock is poor due to I’ve bought some or split some. Most wood available I no where near ready.


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[MissMac]

Another question for you fellas. A while back i asked about an airflow diagram for my stove, and BKVP sent me a link to a great video that answered my question. Left over/follow up question: sometimes the flames in my firebox really seam like they’re being drawn to the back of the fire box, like into the upper corners. Is there any logical explanation for this? And no, i don’t mean up through cracks betweent the gasket and bypass plate. Like right to the far back of the stove, around where the air wash tubes connect to the back of the box. Anybody else experience this? Can someone explain the dynamics inside the stove box as to why this happens?

 

[Highbeam]

I aim to hit the big O every time, with mixed success.

See how much you swoosh guys are missing?

 

[Woody Stover]

Cold air should have increased that draft a bit...I have gotten nothing but really hot and long burn times. Best I have gotten so far. The average outside temp was around 33, and for the last 2 days it is around 5. This seems counter intuitive to me. Is there any reason the stove is acting so much better in the colder weather?

Stating the obvious, but I guess you needed more draft?

 

[Ashful]

Another question for you fellas. A while back i asked about an airflow diagram for my stove, and BKVP sent me a link to a great video that answered my question. Left over/follow up question: sometimes the flames in my firebox really seam like they’re being drawn to the back of the fire box, like into the upper corners. Is there any logical explanation for this? And no, i don’t mean up through cracks betweent the gasket and bypass plate. Like right to the far back of the stove, around where the air wash tubes connect to the back of the box. Anybody else experience this? Can someone explain the dynamics inside the stove box as to why this happens?

Personally, I’ve never noticed this, and can’t think of any reason for it. Interested to hear from others.

 

[Woody Stover]

long burn times..

Not sure why you would be getting longer times, though..

 

[Woody Stover]

flames in my firebox really seam like they’re being drawn to the back of the fire box, like into the upper corners. Is there any logical explanation for this?

Same is happening in my BIL's Fireview. Flame going back, instead of to the sides and forward toward where the cat intake is. I think it needs a bypass door gasket.

 

[webby3650]

The noncat fanatics have to come up with some way to determine burn time and often they get really creative. I agree with what you wrote for BKs. It's like weird cordwood measurements like Ricks and Bush cords. You can use whatever you want for burntime definition but if you choose something non-standard you need to specify every time or else you will mislead somebody. I also think some folks intentionally mislead about burntimes this way in an effort to make some sort of point.

I keep my stat set on the "N" 95% of the time. It's either enough heat on average or the output tracks the outside temperature somehow. It just works. I also find the stat really sensitive, if you hit the big O (he he he) just one letter over then it gets much warmer. Of course fans also really change things.

I’ve already went through 4 Bush Ricks so far. My house is warm but do you think I’m going through too much wood? I add wood when my feet get cold every 8 hours. Is my stove workin good?

 

[jatoxico]

The noncat fanatics have to come up with some way to determine burn time and often they get really creative. I agree with what you wrote for BKs. It's like weird cordwood measurements like Ricks and Bush cords.

I’ve already went through 4 Bush Ricks so far. My house is warm but do you think I’m going through too much wood? I add wood when my feet get cold every 8 hours. Is my stove workin good?

Nonsense...I've only gone through 2 Bush Ricks and a Waddle.

 

[jetsam]

See how much you swoosh guys are missing?

Still thy tongue, blasphemer, lest ye revive The Thread That Shall Not Be Mentioned!

 

[MissMac]

Personally, I’ve never noticed this, and can’t think of any reason for it. Interested to hear from others.

I notice it primarily when i throw 3-4 splits in for a quick hot burn after work in the evenings. So, not a lot of wood in the box, and sometimes it really seems like the flames are drawn to the very back, by the air intake tubes where they hit the fire box. I almost wondered if it could be because of the air wash coming down in the front making some sort of circular air path from the front to the back.

 

[Highbeam]

I notice it primarily when i throw 3-4 splits in for a quick hot burn after work in the evenings. So, not a lot of wood in the box, and sometimes it really seems like the flames are drawn to the very back, by the air intake tubes where they hit the fire box. I almost wondered if it could be because of the air wash coming down in the front making some sort of circular air path from the front to the back.

If you sit there with a flashlight during the burn you can witness some very consistent and weird air pattern in the firebox. It works best to watch during a long cruise so no flame in the box but enough smoke to see the pattern. The obvious driver is the relatively cold air shooting down the glass and then into the bottom of the fire.

All for fun, doubt you have any kind of leaks.

 

[MissMac]

If you sit there with a flashlight during the burn you can witness some very consistent and weird air pattern in the firebox. It works best to watch during a long cruise so no flame in the box but enough smoke to see the pattern. The obvious driver is the relatively cold air shooting down the glass and then into the bottom of the fire.

All for fun, doubt you have any kind of leaks.

Yes, I do a lot of 'gapping out' at my firebox. Some of my friends make fun of me for how excited i am to talk about wood burning, the wood shed etc., but it's becoming a hobby for sure. And you're likely right that there is no leak back there, but it is something that i've wondered about, including if it's a relevant factor in my ongoing creo smell issue which i've come to accept. More than anything, it's just an observation that I wanted to understand better, and was curious if anyone else ever saw something similar.

 

[lsucet]

Yes, I do a lot of 'gapping out' at my firebox. Some of my friends make fun of me for how excited i am to talk about wood burning, the wood shed etc., but it's becoming a hobby for sure. And you're likely right that there is no leak back there, but it is something that i've wondered about, including if it's a relevant factor in my ongoing creo smell issue which i've come to accept. More than anything, it's just an observation that I wanted to understand better, and was curious if anyone else ever saw something similar.

Remember, the way you load has a big impact too. If there is gap between the logs air travel all the way back with an easy path. Try to load it tight and it will burn different. Also rake the coals to the front helps. But gaps between cause what you described.

 

[vwmike]

Yes, I do a lot of 'gapping out' at my firebox. Some of my friends make fun of me for how excited i am to talk about wood burning, the wood shed etc., but it's becoming a hobby for sure. And you're likely right that there is no leak back there, but it is something that i've wondered about, including if it's a relevant factor in my ongoing creo smell issue which i've come to accept. More than anything, it's just an observation that I wanted to understand better, and was curious if anyone else ever saw something similar.

Me too! The funniest is my dad who's burned wood for 30+ years in a big smoke dragon. He's still off the mindset of throw wood in and open air for hot house, close air all the way when house is warm. No thermometers, very little seasoning, big brick chimney, lots of creosote.

 

[jetsam]

Me too! The funniest is my dad who's burned wood for 30+ years in a big smoke dragon. He's still off the mindset of throw wood in and open air for hot house, close air all the way when house is warm. No thermometers, very little seasoning, big brick chimney, lots of creosote.

Tell him that the guys who have tried it both ways say that he should give his back a break and get a real stove! (Although it is harder on your back the first year, but easier after you get a couple years ahead on dry wood.)

 

[sprawlnstall]

Should be a good test for the princess. Brought in my 5 year seasoned Oak and planning for a hot cleanout tonight so I can pack the stove. Hoping for 8 hour reloads but may have to fire up the pellet stove if “the old girl” can’t keep up.

 

[bholler]

Some people, incorrectly in my opinion, use the requirements of their house in their figuring of burn time. To me, burn time in a BK is active cat time, and burning two of them for 3.5 years, I’ve not noticed any dependency between outside weather and burn time, for a given thermostat setting.

If you use, “I need to load it every xx hours to keep my house warm”, or “I turn it up when it gets cold,” then of course weather effects your burn time, but that’s a different conversation.

One thing I can imagine is that if one runs an OAK, the variation in outdoor temperature would affect the the temperature of the thermostat, accordingly. In this scenario, a colder OAK supply would cause the thermostat to open the air more for the same t’stat setting, and this decrease burn time for a given knob position. It seems feasible, but I have no experience with OAKs on BKs.

But who cares how long you can burn if it doesn't heat your house. To me your definition of burn time is just a maximum burn time which to me is completely useless. I care about heating my house not where the needle is on the cat probe.