2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[bigaar]

While cleaning my Ashford yesterday, I noticed that my cat gasket seemed a bit suspect. There is a lot of gasket hanging out past the top of the cat. It is also very crumbly. I inevitably crumbled some off by cleaning the cat. Finally, the cat did not feel like it was in its hole tight. I was able to relatively lightly push it farther into its socket. Whether that was a smart thing to do, I don't know. I don't seem to have any of the problems that the manual associates with a bad cat. What do you guys think? Can I even buy a gasket without buying a new cat? about how much?

 

[Highbeam]

How about a little "rocket" blower like photographers use on their lenses?View attachment 199289

That little blower would be just fine. The can-of-air that the manufacturers recommend has about 50 psi in it and I'm sure that your squeeze blower will be gentler than that. Might be too gentle.

 

[Highbeam]

While cleaning my Ashford yesterday, I noticed that my cat gasket seemed a bit suspect. There is a lot of gasket hanging out past the top of the cat. It is also very crumbly. I inevitably crumbled some off by cleaning the cat. Finally, the cat did not feel like it was in its hole tight. I was able to relatively lightly push it farther into its socket. Whether that was a smart thing to do, I don't know. I don't seem to have any of the problems that the manual associates with a bad cat. What do you guys think? Can I even buy a gasket without buying a new cat? about how much?



View attachment 199345 View attachment 199346 View attachment 199347

When you or the manufacturer put the gasket on the cat before sliding into the tight hole you are supposed to tape the bajeepers out of the leading edge so that the cat gasket stays on the cat as you shove it into a pretty tight hole. The gasket is 2" wide and the cat is 2" wide. Either during installation or during operation, your gasket has slipped out a bit. The good news is that of the 2" width it looks like only a 0.5" inch or so has made it out. I would run it.

The cat is not tight in the stainless steel can when it's cold. You should be able to wiggle it around a little. The can can walk out of the stove a tiny bit, I too have shoved it back in place when it slips 1/8" or so. That's okay.

You can buy a new gasket. By the foot it's only like 2$ per foot but I don't see the need quite yet. These cats don't live long if you burn for primary heat so you may need to swap it out anyway. Can you make it to 12000 hours? You can order new gasket right from firecats.com, the guys that make BK cats. Actually I don't know if they make the steel cats but the gasket is the same.

If you click on my profile you can search for threads posted by me and one thread in the last year was my removing, cleaning, regasketing and reinstalling a steel cat in my princess. Lots of pictures including how to deal with the gasket.

 

[Aranyic]

It looks like my princess is going to be sitting this year out. Moving sometime around the middle/end of October and the house doesn't have a chimney currently. It's got a hearthstone P61 pellet stove and comes with about 1.5 tons of pellets that I'll use (and buy a couple more tons most likely). Chimney will be on the list for next spring/summer. Looks like the P61 is a solid heater though from reading in the pellet mill a little.

I'd love to go the direction of rangerbait and do a bump out/alcove install with it but I'm starting from a tough negotiating position. She patiently (sort of) let me go through all the pictures and playing it up. Then informed me that there was absolutely no way a hole was going into the side of the house.

 

[kennyp2339]

It looks like my princess is going to be sitting this year out. Moving sometime around the middle/end of October and the house doesn't have a chimney currently. It's got a hearthstone P61 pellet stove and comes with about 1.5 tons of pellets that I'll use (and buy a couple more tons most likely). Chimney will be on the list for next spring/summer. Looks like the P61 is a solid heater though from reading in the pellet mill a little.

I'd love to go the direction of rangerbait and do a bump out/alcove install with it but I'm starting from a tough negotiating position. She patiently (sort of) let me go through all the pictures and playing it up. Then informed me that there was absolutely no way a hole was going into the side of the house.

Reminds me of this one time I had a live in gf (almost married the babe) I talked about putting a hole in living room closet to get better airflow, she left to go shopping, I had a couple millers and proceeded to make the worst hole ever with a sawzal, well I still get to look at that hole and I think "she" is living my about 60 miles away from my current location, FYI an interesting nod of the head, a raised eyebrow and maybe a smile does not give consent, have clear communication.

 

[Highbeam]

It looks like my princess is going to be sitting this year out. Moving sometime around the middle/end of October and the house doesn't have a chimney currently. It's got a hearthstone P61 pellet stove and comes with about 1.5 tons of pellets that I'll use (and buy a couple more tons most likely). Chimney will be on the list for next spring/summer. Looks like the P61 is a solid heater though from reading in the pellet mill a little.

I'd love to go the direction of rangerbait and do a bump out/alcove install with it but I'm starting from a tough negotiating position. She patiently (sort of) let me go through all the pictures and playing it up. Then informed me that there was absolutely no way a hole was going into the side of the house.

The Harman P61a is an excellent pellet stove. It looks like a toilet and is louder than some but it is extremely dependable, efficient, and powerful. It's about the best you can do. It is also very expensive at something crazy like 4000$ new.

 

[Marshy]

Just an update for you all. I've left the BK owners group as I sold my stove. The new owner is a forum member and I'm sure he'll find himself in here before long. When I get my new Froling in service I'll share. I'm taking pics and saving receipts to make a build thread. Right now all my attention is on the install as the nights are getting cooler, fall is in the air. I'll be sure to stop in once in a while and say hi.

 

[begreen]

Just an update for you all. I've left the BK owners group as I sold my stove. The new owner is a forum member and I'm sure he'll find himself in here before long. When I get my new Froling in service I'll share. I'm taking pics and saving receipts to make a build thread. Right now all my attention is on the install as the nights are getting cooler, fall is in the air. I'll be sure to stop in once in a while and say hi.

Thanks for the update. Looks like it's time to change the signature line to the Froling.

 

[BeachBumm]

I feel like I'm trying to buy a used car - blindfolded.
I went to a reputable Blaze King dealer today. Great sales person. Told me & showed me their heat controller (thermostat) explained how you can burn those stoves low & slow with no creosote in your chimney, etc. We even talked insert and was told that the blower is not necessary as it does not blow any of the warm air from around the stove into your room, that all it does is work to circulate warm air from your room and moves it around the room. I explained that we have a large ceiling fan, and was told that there would be no reason to ever turn on the insert's fan.

That Blaze King sounded like the stove for me!

I then called my chimney sweep, who installs stoves and liners as well as cleans every brand out there. First thing he said to me was "to stay away from Blaze Kings!" He explained how they gum up liners because they burn very low & slow. The conversation went on for 5 minutes, but you get the point.

So what's the scoop? Is my guy who works out in the field for the last 20+ years nuts, or was the sales person just trying to sell a stove?

I've purchased a number of whole house furnaces and ductless mini splits in my past and have never run across this kind of ignorance or just plain "selling". I heard tall tails from a dealer in Bellingham yesterday. Very disturbing.

 

[lsucet]

I think they both misinformed you. For what many been saying here for years the worse part is the last 2 to 3 feet and the cap what gets some creosote and gum up cap. Plus it is my experience so far. Everybody that said so here, are right on the money. For me was not a big deal at all like I can go for another season with no worries. But I know that I don't burn 24/7 like most here.
About the insert, always hear that it depends on the fans more than the freestanding models. I know somebody with one will give you better input.

 

[kennyp2339]

I feel like I'm trying to buy a used car - blindfolded.
I went to a reputable Blaze King dealer today. Great sales person. Told me & showed me their heat controller (thermostat) explained how you can burn those stoves low & slow with no creosote in your chimney, etc. We even talked insert and was told that the blower is not necessary as it does not blow any of the warm air from around the stove into your room, that all it does is work to circulate warm air from your room and moves it around the room. I explained that we have a large ceiling fan, and was told that there would be no reason to ever turn on the insert's fan.

That Blaze King sounded like the stove for me!

I then called my chimney sweep, who installs stoves and liners as well as cleans every brand out there. First thing he said to me was "to stay away from Blaze Kings!" He explained how they gum up liners because they burn very low & slow. The conversation went on for 5 minutes, but you get the point.

So what's the scoop? Is my guy who works out in the field for the last 20+ years nuts, or was the sales person just trying to sell a stove?

I've purchased a number of whole house furnaces and ductless mini splits in my past and have never run across this kind of ignorance or just plain "selling". I heard tall tails from a dealer in Bellingham yesterday. Very disturbing.

Wow - I get you, lots questions maybe a few dead end roads.
1st off I'm a BK princess owner starting season 5 with the stove.
From what I gather your either looking for an insert into an existing masonry fire place or perhaps a free standing unit in some type of enclosure (alcove or very large fireplace)
The BK's get there reputation from smoldering dry wood (best @15% moisture content) in the firebox and letting the catalytic converter burn the smoke from the smoldering fire in an upper chamber to create the heat, this is amplified (compared to other stoves on the market) due to cat placement and a thermostat air adjustment. The thermostat is the key to BK, basically you set the t-stat for the desired heat level you want, you may by location need to just have a steady slow burn with no flames in the firebox to heat the joint (think pacific nw, temps in the 40's, damp with a house decently insulated) or you can have the house like mine in the northeast us where we experience weekly temp swings of sometimes 40's then a front moves through and you have single digits for a week. The Bk can be adjusted if the stove is properly sized for the space its heating, you can run her low and slow and have a steady long term heat (20 - 30 hr burn times) or if its really cold you can turn the T-stat up and have the regular 6-8hr burn times like every other stove on the market.
As for the blower option.. That really depends on where your stove is to your layout in the house, the stove is designed to be a convection heated (heats the air) not a radiant heater which primarily heats objects, so if you have a house with a closed floor plan or poor insulation you will want the blower kit, and hopefully you can get a good convective air current throughout your home with use of the blower and your ceiling fans, but that's all dependent on your floor layout and insulation / air sealing on your home and climate (everyone's place is different)
Now to the chimney sweep.... is he a dealer of another brand of stoves? he maybe trying to sway your idea's in a different direction. These Bk's burn very clean, just like any other stove these stoves require dry wood, ideally the recommendation is wood fuel at 15% moisture content, some people can achieve that, me, I can tell you I have wood split that's 3 years stacked that will never get below 18%, I run the stove with no problems of build up, these stoves have to be tested by the us epa and pass certain emissions to be sold. The only real down fall with this brand is that its honestly dependent on the catalytic converter, if the cat breaks down (literally starts to collapse) or starts to run out, the stove function or efficiency takes a huge hit, if you run dry wood and lite the stove in November and shut down in April (figure 5 cords) your cat should last 4 season easily.
Personally you have the ask yourself the question.. Will I be able enough to be responsible enough to cut & split my firewood to have it dry enough to have a positive BK experience (and this should go for any other stove)
Long story short.. the BK line is a solid line, many people that have ran other stoves and made the switch have not regretted there decision, others have stood on the line wanting one, but didn't believe that the stove actually preformed nearly as well as dealers claimed, and then there was the stubborn crowd that refused to accept how well the stove worked when temps were on the warmer side or someone had a great heating envelope and was able to keep the stove low and slow for a whole brutal winter season.

 

[begreen]

Some cat stoves do run a cooler flue temp. If the flue gases get below 250ºF they will start to condense on the cooler sections of pipe as creosote. This can be avoided by keeping the flue temps warmer. It's why BK recommends using double-wall stove pipe into an insulated chimney. There are all sorts of setups that a chimney sweep runs into and all sorts of people burning varying dryness wood. If a cat stove is vented into a bit larger, exterior masonry chimney then it is likely there will be greater buildup than a similar non-cat connected to the same setup. This is not the fault of the stove. Likewise, if the operator burns poorly seasoned wood (which further cools down flue gases), then the flue is going to get gunked up.

If you didn't have a blower on the Lange and were satisfied with the heat output and circulation then it's likely a blower will not be necessary on the new stove either.

 

[Ashful]

As Kennyp's great post already said, you got some misinformation from both parties.

First, your sweep. He's going on what he's seen, probably a few BK owners with gummy chimneys. Then you come here, and see a group of BK owners more enthusiastic about their stoves than perhaps any other brand, and ask yourself, "what gives?"

The issue here is that BK is really pushing the limits, way beyond any other brand, on long burn time capability. Combined wit market-leading efficiency, his gives operators the ability to run at much lower flue temperatures than most brands. Note I said "ability" to run at lower flue temperatures, as the BK gives ultimate flexibility, there's no requirement you run it way down at the bottom of it's range.

In any case, these very low flue temperatures, should you choose to run there, require very dry wood. That's because, as begreen already pointed out, any water vapor in the wood can condense when flue gasses drop too far. Since water that water vapor is typically carrying the nasty exhaust contaminants, this causes the dreaded gummy flue.

If you burn dry wood, this is not typically an issue. I burn two BK's all day every day, from Halloween into April, and have never had an issue with buildup in either of my chimneys. One is twice the height of the other, being approximately 15' and 30' tall. The most I have seen reported, from a few here, is a little gunk at the very top of the chimney, or on the arrester screen at the top of the pipe, where gasses are cooled by the outside air.

The gummy chimneys observed by your sweep likely came from those consistently operating the stove on wood above 18% moisture content, which is very likely (our most common thread on this forum), or those operating the stove at thermostat settings lower than their draft can support. One thing to know is that you can stall a BK, if you turn it down below the range your chimney can support, if you're a very careless and un-observant operator. I don't see this as a problem, for those of us interested enough in clean burning to poke their head into a forum like this, but not everyone fits that demographic.

On the blower, I can't speak for that model, but on my Ashfords they most definitely take the hot air off the stove. There's a convection deck on top, right over the catalytic combustor, and the blowers pull air in thru the bottom of the stove, push it across this super-hot surface above the combustor, and exhaust it out the front of the stove. I have each of my stoves stuffed in a fireplace, and just keeping the blowers on the lowest setting does a great job of moving heat into my room, rather than just heating up the fireplace. I wouldn't be without them, but perhaps the insert is different?

Read up on this forum, and I am sure you will come away with one certainty, BK owners are fierce fanatics of this brand. In fact, that's why I bought two myself, I used to have three Jotuls.

 

[BKVP]

Allow me please. Catalytic technology was introduced into existing wood stoves in the early 1980's in an effort by manufacturers to continue to sell their products into the state of Oregon. The first state to regulate based upon particulates (PM10 at that time)

What is key to take away from second sentence is the "existing wood stoves" part. Regulation drove manufacturers to look for a quick fix. Sorry to report, most stoves experienced tremendous failure rates. Everyone blame someone else, the blame rests squarely on the shoulders of manufacturers, including my employer, of trying to stay in business in Oregon. Sweeps across the country make accurate observations relating to cat failure and every possible symptom associated with the such failures.

Remember the first cars with cats had all sorts of issues, especially since lead based gasoline was in the pump right next to the "new unleaded" gasoline and the nozzles fit the filler holes! The auto industry refined the fuel labeling, cat designs, began using O2 sensors etc., embraced cat technology and here we are today. Cat failures are few and far between. The stove manufacturers, based upon very real, horrible experiences mostly went to thermal destruction rather than chemical. An isolated few continued with cat technology, refined it to what it is today. It can't be all too bad considering the amount of....let's call it short cutting that is happening in the past 3 years to proven designs.

1984 was a long time ago. Much has been learned, improved and interpreted into the technology.

So your sweep is right. Historically, cat stoves were indeed problematic. This past spring I was invited to speak at the NCSG (National Chimney Sweep Guild) annual meeting. What a stern looking crowd....from a cat guys perspective. In reality, a great group of mostly guys (gals were great too) and the questions they asked were very intuitive and thought provoking from my perspective. Throughout the remainder of the annual meeting, over three days, I had the pleasure to shake hands, accept accolades and most importantly address real world concerns. Then, explaining to a listening group of professionals, the advances in cat technology were very well received.

To your installation. Fans are awesome and they are included in all our inserts (not a sales pitch, but point of clarification to our moderators. ) I think you might consider there are different types of inserts, for example those that are flush mount and those that are hearth mounted. The fact is, the more of the steel sitting on the hearth, the more direct heat conveyance you will experience. Flush mounts are definitely more attractive, but in as much, fans are must to get the most heat into the room. The best part, you decide for your needs if you need them or not.

As to the discussion of moisture content, you need consider for every user, the moisture content can vary and stating a precise percentage won't take into account varying burn rates. Owners here and other forums can burn 20% m.c. fuel because they are in colder regions and burn at higher burn rates.

Another extremely highly regarded cat stove manufacturer has conducted in-house testing with same results we have. That is better a little too moist than too dry. When fuel is exceedingly dry, you can encounter some performance issues in any wood stove. Keep in mind, all stoves Certified in the USA for EPA approval use 18-23% moisture content demensional lumber. Many stoves are "tuned" to burn the specific fuels we test with.

I'll stop rambling and let others contribute. One last observation, my office number is 509-522-2730. I arrive at 6:00 a.m. PST every day of the year except the 300 days a year I am on the road. So call anytime, I would be honored to answer any questions you might have.

 

[BeachBumm]

In any case, these very low flue temperatures, should you choose to run there, require very dry wood.

I burn two BK's all day every day, from Halloween into April, and have never had an issue with buildup in either of my chimneys. One is twice the height of the other, being approximately 15' and 30' tall.

On the blower, I can't speak for that model, but on my Ashfords they most definitely take the hot air off the stove. There's a convection deck on top, right over the catalytic combustor, and the blowers pull air in thru the bottom of the stove, push it across this super-hot surface above the combustor, and exhaust it out the front of the stove. I have each of my stoves stuffed in a fireplace, and just keeping the blowers on the lowest setting does a great job of moving heat into my room, rather than just heating up the fireplace.

Good point that the customers serviced by my chimney sweep might not know how to use the BK.

I'm not sure how dry my Maple or Birch is. I typically cut & stack in May or June or and use it the following year in the fall - so 15 - 18 months. It is also on a cliff above the beach, so I get a lot of ongoing wind up here. It is always under cover. I'm burning 2 year dry wood this fall/winter.

I'm "trying" to get my chimney lengthened to 15', but my elbow into my brick & mortar chimney is about 24" not 36". BK says 36". Is that a problem?

We are also looking at cutting the front of the fireplace and setting the new stove back into the 'hole' of the fireplace which if possible would eliminate the elbows and be a pretty straight shot up. I'm not sure how I could insulate the 2 sides and the back wall. Perhaps I could add a course of firebrick. Would that do anything for insulating the fireplace box?

 

[lsucet]

I'm "trying" to get my chimney lengthened to 15', but my elbow into my brick & mortar chimney is about 24" not 36". BK says 36". Is that a problem?

I think the minimum requirement is 2ft but is recommended 3ft. They also recommend 45s over 90s.

 

[lsucet]

With insert I am no sure if the same requirements apply.

 

[begreen]

Beachbumm. There is confusion about your installation. Have you decided on a) a new metal chimney, straight up in the house b) using the existing setup with two 90 turns in the flue system or c) a wood insert in the fireplace with a liner and chimney extension?

 

[BeachBumm]

Beachbumm. There is confusion about your installation. Have you decided on a) a new metal chimney, straight up in the house b) using the existing setup with two 90 turns in the flue system or c) a wood insert in the fireplace with a liner and chimney extension?

The chimney straight up in the house is out.

I would love to use the existing setup with the 2 90's and add a minor addition to the top of the masonry chimney, but from what I can ascertain from all the reading on this board, we would have to go up an additional 8' with masonry (and line it) - which is a daunting task to build and to clean.

So I am looking at the idea of cutting the front section out of the fireplace to "raise" the front opening, and make an alcove to set the new stove back into the alcove so the liner can go pretty much "straight up" the masonry chimney. This would make it so we only have to add 3' or so to the top of the masonry chimney (better than adding 8'!). Makes adding the blocks up there and cleaning from the top much less daunting - although cutting up the front of the fireplace is a messy task.

I am really not sure what I'll find when I open up the front of the fireplace. Years ago I switched to a wood stove, I closed off the damper area of the fireplace by installing a stainless plate in the upper section of the fireplace to to stop drafts. I will remove the stainless plate and see what I find up there. I know the damper is still in place, and hopefully I can remove it and it's frame so cutting out the front is easier. How the smoke shelf is configured is unknown, and the front upper section of the fireplace (that needs to be removed at least 15" - 18" is also unknown.

Have you ever torn into one of these? I'd very much enjoy any tips!

 

[BKVP]

Please post some pictures of your current chimney/hearth and you'll get the best input possible.

 

[kennyp2339]

The chimney straight up in the house is out. I would love to use the existing setup with a minor addition to the masonry chimney (with the addition of a liner) but from what I can ascertain from all the reading on this board, we would have to go up an additional 8' with masonry (and line it) - which is a daunting task to build and to clean.

The idea of cutting the front section out of the fireplace to make an alcove and setting the new stove back into the alcove so the liner can go pretty much "straight up" the masonry chimney would make it so we only have to add 3' or 4' to the top of the masonry chimney. Makes adding the blocks up there and cleaning from the top mush less daunting - although cutting up the front of the fireplace is a messy task.

I am really not sure what I'll find when I open up the front of the fireplace. Years ago I installed a stainless plate in the upper section of the fireplace to to stop drafts, etc. Tomorrow I will remove the stainless plate and see what I find up there. I know the damper is still in place, and hopefully I can remove it and it's frame. How the smoke shelf is configured is unknown, and the front upper section of the fireplace (that needs to be removed at least 15" - 18" is also unknown.

Have you ever torn into one of these? I'd very much enjoy any tips!

You can always install the appropriate insulated liner then a masonry anchor plate on top of the chimney then a couple lengths of class a chimney pipe.
Going strait up is always the best option but in some cases it is not feasible due to labor / cost, you can always block off the bottom of the fireplace (smoke shelf) with a piece of sheet metal (leaving a hole for pipe clean out) and install a new thimble higher on the fireplace to tie the unit into. (be advised that BK recommends at least a 3ft rise from the stove top before any elbows (2) 45deg elbows rather than (1) 90deg elbow. So measuring is a must before doing any work.
Also keep in mind that just because you have a fireplace in an area doesn't necessarily mean that you bound to have wood heat in the spot, it maybe easier / better to install a hearth pad and stove, running new class A chimney pipe with either strait up and out the roof or using a through the wall kit and up the side of the house.

 

[moresnow]

B.Bum Pics, Pics, Pics. Also provide the current opening dimensions and existing hearth configuration/size etc. One positive result from your visit with the local dealer and sweep is this..... You arrived here. If there is a way to install a BK at your place these gents will guide you nicely. My BK experience is nothing short of amazing. Dry wood and exhausting straight up and out has worked perfect here. No muss, no fuss.

Also. The fans made a night and day performance difference for me. Tried blowing floor air across and behind my stove with a box fan while I waited for my factory fans to arrive. It did not work and seemed to confuse the thermo/burn times?

 

[Ashful]

I'm not sure how dry my Maple or Birch is. I typically cut & stack in May or June or and use it the following year in the fall - so 15 - 18 months. It is also on a cliff above the beach, so I get a lot of ongoing wind up here. It is always under cover. I'm burning 2 year dry wood this fall/winter.

Around here, 18 months (2 summers) is plenty for maple or birch. Only a few species, namely oak, take longer than that.

The idea of cutting the front section out of the fireplace to make an alcove and setting the new stove back into the alcove so the liner can go pretty much "straight up" the masonry chimney would make it so we only have to add 3' or 4' to the top of the masonry chimney. Makes adding the blocks up there and cleaning from the top mush less daunting - although cutting up the front of the fireplace is a messy task.

Why not just frame up from the top of the chimney with metal studs and masonry board, then stucco the whole thing? That's been done many times, when installing a class-A chimney inside.

 

[Highbeam]

if you run dry wood and lite the stove in November and shut down in April (figure 5 cords) your cat should last 4 season easily.

Those 6 months add up to 4320 hours. Cat manufacturers rate the cat life at 10,000-12,000 hours so 3 years is all you can expect burning that way. In my experience, that's all you will get.

Operating your appliance with a functional cat that is within its life expectancy means the cat will be working as designed and eating the nasty smoke to make clean heat with minimal flue accumulations or smoke emissions. When you try to use a cat after it has been mostly consumed, you will get some very ugly flue accumulations but also visible smoke emissions and less heat as clues that you need to replace the cat. Shouldn't be a surprise.

I am happy to see some acknowledgment that wood moisture content isn't quite as critical as once thought. Once you're down to 23%, it's fine. Lets try not to make excessively dry wood a barrier to wood burning.

To @BeachBumm , you can buy a reasonably good moisture meter from harbor freight for low money for testing wood. At the ocean beach you will have lots of moisture that may slow the wood drying, lots of wind too so who knows? Just don't burn driftwood.

 

[kennyp2339]

Those 6 months add up to 4320 hours. Cat manufacturers rate the cat life at 10,000-12,000 hours so 3 years is all you can expect burning that way. In my experience, that's all you will get.

Operating your appliance with a functional cat that is within its life expectancy means the cat will be working as designed and eating the nasty smoke to make clean heat with minimal flue accumulations or smoke emissions. When you try to use a cat after it has been mostly consumed, you will get some very ugly flue accumulations but also visible smoke emissions and less heat as clues that you need to replace the cat. Shouldn't be a surprise.

I am happy to see some acknowledgment that wood moisture content isn't quite as critical as once thought. Once you're down to 23%, it's fine. Lets try not to make excessively dry wood a barrier to wood burning.

To @BeachBumm , you can buy a reasonably good moisture meter from harbor freight for low money for testing wood. At the ocean beach you will have lots of moisture that may slow the wood drying, lots of wind too so who knows? Just don't burn driftwood.

LOL - hence why im going into my 5th heating season with a new cat... my math was way off.
A 50lbs load of wood at 20% moisture content equates to 10 lbs of water, or 1.198 gallons of water, @ 15% its .9 gallons and @ 25% its 1 1/2 gallons, food for thought, of course that's moisture that's slowly released rather than water poured on a fire all at once.