2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
Question on extended roof support brackets for chimney height over 4-5 feet. My house is fairly small, and the chimney rises out of the roof within about 2' of the ridgeline of a simple gable roof. The support brackets are advertised as having a 60 degree spread,

Great. Thanks.
When I installed mine I just eyeballed the bottom support brackets, I think there around 8 feet apart end to end supporting 6.5ft of chimney on the roof side. Its as solid as a rock.
 
Question on extended roof support brackets for chimney height over 4-5 feet. My house is fairly small, and the chimney rises out of the roof within about 2' of the ridgeline of a simple gable roof. The support brackets are advertised as having a 60 degree spread,
Does it meet the requirements of the 10-3-2 rule?
[Hearth.com] 2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)
The legs should be at approx. a 45º angle to the pipe with a 60º spread between the legs.
 
Does it meet the requirements of the 10-3-2 rule?
View attachment 202109
The legs should be at approx. a 45º angle to the pipe with a 60º spread between the legs.

My original question kind of got scrambled before I posted...

Yes, it does meet the 10-3-2 rule, barely but it meets it. The chimney extends a little more than 3 vertical feet above the roof surface (not counting cap) is about 2.5 horizontal feet away from ridge, and extends a little over 2 feet above ridge line.

I will be installing at 2 foot section of chimney pipe, which will give me a total run of 15' with the top of the chimney pipe extending about 5 vertical feet above roof surface (should still be possible to clean chimney without trying to prop a ladder on ridgeline of house...). In order to keep the angle support braces about 45 degrees from vertical, as well as keep the mounting bracket on the roof surface several inches below the ridge line, the highest that I could mount the support collar (to which the support extensions attach) around the chimney would be about 2 feet or a little less.

If I keep the support collar at 2' above roof (or less) in order to maintain a 45 degree angle on the support brackets, that would leave 3 feet of chimney pipe extending above support collar. With the support collar that low, it seems like it is hardly worth the effort, but I suppose it would be better than nothing.

If this is intelligible, what do you think?
 
Don't forget, you can sweep a chimney from the bottom so make your stack as high as you want!

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
 
  • Like
Reactions: coutufr
Don't forget, you can sweep a chimney from the bottom so make your stack as high as you want!

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Ha ha ha... No, that ain't gonna happen!

I'll just raise the support collar a bit until there is 30" chimney above and 30" below. The angle won't be 45 degrees, but close enough.
 
Well, it's going down to 37 tonight. The newly boiled cat has already earned The Scruffy Brown Dog Seal Of Approval!

View attachment 202125
sure beats the baseboards banging and clanging, I ran my first load (still going) through the new cat as well. I forgot how great a new cat is.
 
sure beats the baseboards banging and clanging, I ran my first load (still going) through the new cat as well. I forgot how great a new cat is.
Same here, new cat this year, major improvement.
 
I LOVE new cats! I've heard folks referring to them as overactive. I wish mine would just stay overactive then.
 
Like these pictures?
 

Attachments

  • [Hearth.com] 2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)
    CE1754CC-69CB-4B3C-BB1F-E00F636AF18C.webp
    35 KB · Views: 267
  • [Hearth.com] 2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)
    C54EBB3A-63D6-4201-B007-449DA152CA89.webp
    50.3 KB · Views: 271
My original question kind of got scrambled before I posted...

Yes, it does meet the 10-3-2 rule, barely but it meets it. The chimney extends a little more than 3 vertical feet above the roof surface (not counting cap) is about 2.5 horizontal feet away from ridge, and extends a little over 2 feet above ridge line.

I will be installing at 2 foot section of chimney pipe, which will give me a total run of 15' with the top of the chimney pipe extending about 5 vertical feet above roof surface (should still be possible to clean chimney without trying to prop a ladder on ridgeline of house...). In order to keep the angle support braces about 45 degrees from vertical, as well as keep the mounting bracket on the roof surface several inches below the ridge line, the highest that I could mount the support collar (to which the support extensions attach) around the chimney would be about 2 feet or a little less.

If I keep the support collar at 2' above roof (or less) in order to maintain a 45 degree angle on the support brackets, that would leave 3 feet of chimney pipe extending above support collar. With the support collar that low, it seems like it is hardly worth the effort, but I suppose it would be better than nothing.

If this is intelligible, what do you think?

I think a support brace even if it's only a couple feet above the roofline can be very valuable since (most of the time) the roof doesn't support the chimney. The chimney is actually supported way down in the ceiling support box and there is just an oversized hole in the sheathing where the chimney passes through.

On these support brackets, do you need to hit a rafter with the bolts or do you just screw it to the sheathing?

Don't forget, you can always spin off a section of class A above the roof line. Meaning even if you can't reach the cap you can take off that top chunk of chimney to clean it and then spin it back on. They are not bolted or glued together.

Myself, I clean bottom up but the chimney cap can get a little nasty.
 
I have on mine, support box, a bracket under the flashing plus the brace to the roof. it is rock solid. I have almost 19' with almost 12' including the cap exposed. The second install, I am almost done with it and that one goes thru two story. Thru the ceiling with support box and a bracket on first floor and i just need to go thru the roof of the second story to finish the install. planning on doing it the following weekend. will put another bracket under the flashing also but no need to brace it.
 
My original question kind of got scrambled before I posted...

Yes, it does meet the 10-3-2 rule, barely but it meets it. The chimney extends a little more than 3 vertical feet above the roof surface (not counting cap) is about 2.5 horizontal feet away from ridge, and extends a little over 2 feet above ridge line.

I will be installing at 2 foot section of chimney pipe, which will give me a total run of 15' with the top of the chimney pipe extending about 5 vertical feet above roof surface (should still be possible to clean chimney without trying to prop a ladder on ridgeline of house...). In order to keep the angle support braces about 45 degrees from vertical, as well as keep the mounting bracket on the roof surface several inches below the ridge line, the highest that I could mount the support collar (to which the support extensions attach) around the chimney would be about 2 feet or a little less.

If I keep the support collar at 2' above roof (or less) in order to maintain a 45 degree angle on the support brackets, that would leave 3 feet of chimney pipe extending above support collar. With the support collar that low, it seems like it is hardly worth the effort, but I suppose it would be better than nothing.

If this is intelligible, what do you think?
I see the dilemma. It may take a compromise. If you place the brace pads just below the ridgeline what angle would the braces be at to reach the 5' level on the chimney. And at the 4' level?
 
I LOVE new cats! I've heard folks referring to them as overactive. I wish mine would just stay overactive then.
Kinda like an overactive heat pump?
 
  • Like
Reactions: tarzan
I see the dilemma. It may take a compromise. If you place the brace pads just below the ridgeline what angle would the braces be at to reach the 5' level on the chimney. And at the 4' level?

I think I would just make sure that less than 5' is above the support clamp. Seems like he can do that even if the braces are at a 45 above horizontal.
 
Not sure if I should ask here or start a new thread. I have read a lot about the bad smell from some of the BK's when run on low but I'm not sure if there is a consensus on the fix. I have an Ashford 30, 16' of chimney and unfortunately 2 45's. There seems to be a good draft but I have had a bit of smoke on hot reloads. Absolutely no smoke when it's just a coal bed. Stove itself seems to be working well. No problem with air control or getting long burn times. Which brings me to the smell. Only time I get it is when I dial it right down for a long burn. Only seems to smell right by the cat probe. Nothing on the sides or around the door. Dollar bill test is perfect all around. Not sure if I should lift the telescoping section and put some type of sealant in there or should I start by trying another section of chimney? I think I have read that both have worked. Any other ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Not sure if I should ask here or start a new thread. I have read a lot about the bad smell from some of the BK's when run on low but I'm not sure if there is a consensus on the fix. I have an Ashford 30, 16' of chimney and unfortunately 2 45's. There seems to be a good draft but I have had a bit of smoke on hot reloads. Absolutely no smoke when it's just a coal bed. Stove itself seems to be working well. No problem with air control or getting long burn times. Which brings me to the smell. Only time I get it is when I dial it right down for a long burn. Only seems to smell right by the cat probe. Nothing on the sides or around the door. Dollar bill test is perfect all around. Not sure if I should lift the telescoping section and put some type of sealant in there or should I start by trying another section of chimney? I think I have read that both have worked. Any other ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Try turning it down in reasonable increments rather than all at once.
 
  • Like
Reactions: coutufr
I started off by turning it down a third for about 20-30 mins then another third, No luck. I've also tried it in quarters. Still get the smell in the lower settings.
 
If I'm standing beside the stove and the thermo is a clock 2:30-3 isn't a very strong smell at all but anything lower it starts to get more pronounced. Unfortunately that's where the stove needs to run this time of year to prevent over heating the house.
 
I’m no expert, but it sounds like draft to me. If you’re getting smoke on reloads, your draft isn’t good enough. I get similar behavior when the flue needs to be cleaned. If I start getting smoke on reloads, I know it’s time to sweep.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not sure if I should ask here or start a new thread. I have read a lot about the bad smell from some of the BK's when run on low but I'm not sure if there is a consensus on the fix. I have an Ashford 30, 16' of chimney and unfortunately 2 45's. There seems to be a good draft but I have had a bit of smoke on hot reloads. Absolutely no smoke when it's just a coal bed. Stove itself seems to be working well. No problem with air control or getting long burn times. Which brings me to the smell. Only time I get it is when I dial it right down for a long burn. Only seems to smell right by the cat probe. Nothing on the sides or around the door. Dollar bill test is perfect all around. Not sure if I should lift the telescoping section and put some type of sealant in there or should I start by trying another section of chimney? I think I have read that both have worked. Any other ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Absolutely keep it here. BK owners have a lot of interest in this, and finding a fix for those having it.
 
Putting sealant on the pipe is just masking the problem. I'm also thinking its a draft issue? what kind of house do you have (new, old, tight, drafty) where is the stove in the house? basement, main, main floor? Can you add another length of chimney? what kind of wood are you burning? moisture content. what kind of chimney cap do you have? are there tree near by, or are you at a bottom of a hill? Whats your definition of a long burn? has your stove ever stalled out when dialed real low?
 
It's a roughly 1400sq ft bungalow built in the 80's. All new windows, 2 doors still to be changed. Fairly tight. Seems to hold the heat fairly well. Stove is on main floor in the living room. Wood is mostly maple, ash, cherry and ironwood. Next years wood was cut and split in the spring and i moved this years into the garage to try to help the drying. Mostly between 20 and 25 right now. I have some that is reading close to 30 that I'm holding off on. No real large trees close to the house. There's about 20 acres of rolling fields around the house. I would have to hire someone to add a length of chimney. I'm pretty scared of heights these days hence the reason I had it installed for us.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.