2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[Shayne]

New Princess 2016 owner coming from a Cartier 2 for the last 18 years. Picked it up Wednesday and it has been running since Wednesday night. Burning sugar maple from our land and the princess has been running like a dear so far. We have got some 18 to 24 hour burns so far and there is no smoke, wild. We like how we can fill it and forget it, now it is almost like you are forgetting to do something, since there is no more tinkering with the stove to get the right heat.

First post to thank all here, reading has answered most my questions. Reads like a good place if I have some in the future.

Regards

 

[rwhite]

The metal tab under head of screw is not OEM. Perhaps to hold up fan cord? Check bypass retainers, gaskets and visually inspect combustor.

Pedestal is correct to Princess Classic. No legs cannot be added later. Unless you remove welded on base and fabricate method to attach legs.

Thanks to everyone for the inspection tips. Stove was actually an 06 model. Seller bought the home in 08 and realized his wife's asthma couldn't handle it so he only burned it one winter. Basically it's in kike new condition with exception of 1 cracked fire brick. it was installed in a manufactured home so that was a grounding terminal and it does have the side shields and oak kit. Got 6' of galvanized exterior ht chimney with cap and collars, and about a 6' piece of telescoping double wall with ceiling support for the interior. It's Simpson duravent pipe. Also got the corner hearth. Pricing out the chimney and hearth I basically got the stove for $200. So all in all a good day.

 

[BKVP]

Thanks to everyone for the inspection tips. Stove was actually an 06 model. Seller bought the home in 08 and realized his wife's asthma couldn't handle it so he only burned it one winter. Basically it's in kike new condition with exception of 1 cracked fire brick. it was installed in a manufactured home so that was a grounding terminal and it does have the side shields and oak kit. Got 6' of galvanized exterior ht chimney with cap and collars, and about a 6' piece of telescoping double wall with ceiling support for the interior. It's Simpson duravent pipe. Also got the corner hearth. Pricing out the chimney and hearth I basically got the stove for $200. So all in all a good day.

What a great buy. You can probably sell the whole package for $1800 and go fishing for a week in Alaska! Wait until summer....it's a little cold for halibut right now

 

[Myke]

Really, really wanted to try out our new Blaze King Sirocco 30.1 and I was not alone.



Was finally able to give it a whirl. Some particulars:

Wood: Doug Fir
Seasoned : 2+ years
Moisture content: 14-19 percent as measured by cheapo ebay meter outside in under 70 degree weather.
Split size: 3" to 6"
Stacked: Front to back (north south)
Outside temperature: 42-52 degrees F.

Special notes:
Original post with some other particulars: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/new-guy-with-new-bk-stove.155235/#post-2086289

The cure burn was quite smokey, even thought I had a chimney leak but it was just the paint curing and grease burning off. Yes, there is grease on the bypass mechanism. I stuck my hand in there before the pipe was installed and got a gob on my hand.

I recommend the outside air kit "oak". Did not have one on our previous Vermont Casting Resolute Acclaim (26 years of use) and it always felt like we were slightly suffocating in the house even with some windows slightly cracked. We do not have this with the Blaze King and the "oak".

I do not use kindling, with the seasoned wood it does not seem to need it. I use the Super Cedar Firestarters, broken into 4 pieces of which I use 1 or 2 pieces placed within the stack.

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So far, I have been able to keep it in the Catalytic Combuster Active zone for 20+ hours. However, the top is still warm running just over 100 degrees F well after it is out of the active zone. Temp is measured with cheap infrared digital thermometer. All in all, very nice stove that I load once, get it going, set the thermostat, and enjoy the warm goodness for a long time. What's not to like?

 

[BKVP]

I think I see a picture for Pet Prizes 2017!

 

[kf6hap]

Has anybody brought the control knob to the front? I am looking for a 1/4" right angle 2:1 reduction drive with very low or zero backlash to do this. The reduction drive would give a more vernier action to the knob and take it out of a dark hot corner.

 

[Highbeam]

Has anybody brought the control knob to the front? I am looking for a 1/4" right angle 2:1 reduction drive with very low or zero backlash to do this. The reduction drive would give a more vernier action to the knob and take it out of a dark hot corner.

When you have markings on that dial and care about such things, it becomes very apparent that a very small change in thermostat dial position makes a huge difference. Like, move it a ch clockwise and you lose hours of burntime.

 

[rwhite]

A few questions on the princess;
What are thoughts on princess side shields. I won't have a clearance issue so should I leave on or remove?
Should the stove top probe be loose or cemented in? It just sits in the hole now and can be pulled out.
Does the oak inlet need to be blocked if I'm not planning on using it?

 

[webby3650]

The probe should be loose, it just sits there. There's no reason to do anything with the oak, the air intake is in the same location wether you use the oak or not. It's just an adaptor.

 

[rwhite]

The probe should be loose, it just sits there. There's no reason to do anything with the oak, the air intake is in the same location wether you use the oak or not. It's just an adaptor.

Thanks! Any idea with the side heat shields ?

 

[BKVP]

Thanks! Any idea with the side heat shields ?

Sell them for $200 and the stove was FREE!!

 

[BKVP]

You won't need them, then remove them...feel the heat...

 

[Rickb]

Has anybody brought the control knob to the front? I am looking for a 1/4" right angle 2:1 reduction drive with very low or zero backlash to do this. The reduction drive would give a more vernier action to the knob and take it out of a dark hot corner.

I have not seen it but if you come up with something I would buy 1. Mine is tucked into a fake fireplace and my only gripe is the air control knob...


You could use 2 of these to hold the new long 1/4 stock.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12333

Just cant seem to find a micro right angle gear.

Maybe 2 gears like these:
https://www.servocity.com/250-bore-bevel-gears

Just need to make a small metal 90 that the would hold the gears?

Edit: It looks like that website has everything you would need. I just ordered a bunch of stuff I will let you know if it works.

 

[kf6hap]

I see Home depot has a drill reduction drive but is 1:1.

 

[Niko]

I just wanna say thank you to BLAZE KING. My family has owmed a small Greek restaurant for over 31 years and They took care of me like I take care of my customers.

 

[Ashful]

Has anybody brought the control knob to the front? I am looking for a 1/4" right angle 2:1 reduction drive with very low or zero backlash to do this. The reduction drive would give a more vernier action to the knob and take it out of a dark hot corner.

Time to start surfing the Accurate Bearing catalog:

(broken link removed to http://www.accuratebearing.com/what.php)

Check worm and bevel gear sets. There may even be zero-backlash assemblies in there, but it's been a few years (like 20) since I checked. I used to do that stuff for a living.

 

[Highbeam]

Time to start surfing the Accurate Bearing catalog:

(broken link removed to http://www.accuratebearing.com/what.php)

Check worm and bevel gear sets. There may even be zero-backlash assemblies in there, but it's been a few years (like 20) since I checked. I used to do that stuff for a living.

Why not just replace the small dial and label with a lever that is a foot long and a 12" diameter label? That would give you significantly better resolution and move the controls toward the front. You could even label the side of the label disc like a throttle lever on a big boat.

The lever would have to be light weight so as not to self adjust but it could also be counterweighted.

 

[kennyp2339]

Throttle T handle..that would be something

 

[Woody Stover]

bypass gasket retainer.

Since I have cast iron/soapstone stoves, the bypass gaskets I've seen just lie in a channel and get cemented like other gaskets on the stoves.
Is the BK bypass gasket retainer the piece that appears in these pics to be welded to the inside top of the firebox, around the bypass opening?
Also, how is the bypass door held in place? I see a couple pieces of round stock welded to the front edge of the door, but can't see what those might seat into? Have any better pics been posted here by members?
I'd like to get to a BK dealer at some point, to get a closer look, but the closest one to me is several hours away. I'd have even more difficulty trying to assess the Woodstock steel stoves; I doubt that I could find an owner nearby that is going to let me waltz into their home and take their stove apart so I can look at it. My only other option is to go half way across the country to an open house at the plant...

 

[webby3650]

Since I have cast iron/soapstone stoves, the bypass gaskets I've seen just lie in a channel and get cemented like other gaskets on the stoves.
Is the BK bypass gasket retainer the piece that appears in these pics to be welded to the inside top of the firebox, around the bypass opening?
Also, how is the bypass door held in place? I see a couple pieces of round stock welded to the front edge of the door, but can't see what those might seat into? Have any better pics been posted here by members?
I'd like to get to a BK dealer at some point, to get a closer look, but the closest one to me is several hours away. I'd have even more difficulty trying to assess the Woodstock steel stoves; I doubt that I could find an owner nearby that is going to let me waltz into their home and take their stove apart so I can look at it. My only other option is to go half way across the country to an open house at the plant...

View attachment 189070

There are 2 stainless steel bypass door retainers that mount in the cat housing. These retainers go in before the cat, they simply keep the ears on the bypass plate from being able to lift up. It's surprisingly simple.

 

[Highbeam]

There are 2 stainless steel bypass door retainers that mount in the cat housing. These retainers go in before the cat, they simply keep the ears on the bypass plate from being able to lift up. It's surprisingly simple.

And the bypass gasket retainers, as @Woody Stover correctly assumed, are four little steel things welded to the roof of the firebox around the rectangular bypass opening to hold the gasket. They are thin and in a pretty harsh location so have been known to melt. These retainers are the weak link of the BK IMO. Not easily replaced when melted.

 

[lsucet]

You won't need them, then remove them...feel the heat...

is there a benefit removing the side shields? Mine came with them cause i got the ULTRA but i do not have clearance problem neither.
What is the recommendation?

 

[webby3650]

They can't really be removed on the ultra, they are standard issue. It's an optional add on with the other models. If
You notice, the right side shield also acts as a support/guide for your air control rod. And you'll have some unfinished looking welds and weld splatter under there. It wouldn't look terrible, it's possible but it might look a little off.

 

[lsucet]

oh ok thanks i appreciate the answer. then they will stay on.

 

[webby3650]

oh ok thanks i appreciate the answer. then they will stay on.

You aren't really gaining much in my opinion, it's not like the heat will be lost up the flue. It's still released, just more in a conductive manner rather than radiant.