2015/2016 VC Owners thread

[redhat]

Congrats!

You should pick up a stove top, flue and cat thermometers/probes before you run the stove. These three will tell you what goes on in the whole firebox system.

VC provides a cat probe with the 2040, so he won't have to buy that.

 

[Excavator]

you cut the plug off and attach the one they provide. This thing has helped me tremendously!

Thanks. My condar digital was funky and finally quit all together. Can't wait for AT100 to arrive and try out

 

[Reckless]

Thanks. My condar digital was funky and finally quit all together. Can't wait for AT100 to arrive and try out

Let me know if you need help setting it up

 

[MWelch2583]

May be a maintenance nightmare but damn it's pretty and warm

 

[X-trema]

Hi Guys,

I have replaced the Intrepid 1302 with an Intrepid 1990. I rebuilt it completely. The secondary air probe, refractory, troath hood and catalyst have been replaced. The problem I now have is that after reloading I let the temperature raise to 500F on stove top and then engage the catalyst. The temperature of the catalyst rages to 1000F. At that point i start to close the air control. but the catalyst continues to rise to 1500+.
When the fire burns normal. And then I close the air controller the fire does not go out. This may be due to the epa holes?
Is there something i'm doing wrong or is there a large air leak?

Thanks in advance

Xander

 

[Dobish]

So we got it installed, and ran it last night, and it only filled my house full of smoke once! I have another 4' piece of chimney pipe coming, and and additional support brace to bring it up to 20'. I am a bit concerned as there will be a lot of chimney on the outside of the house.

The install went pretty easy, and it was nice to have the basement warmer than 53º last night!

 

[begreen]

Looks great! Brace the chimney once for every 5 ft above the roof where the pipe exits. Follow the brace directions for angle and spread of the legs.

 

[Dobish]

Here is a shot of the chimney where it currently stands. I will probably end up bracing to the top roof with the extended chimney.

 

[droppinloads]

really nice. I have a similar chimney setup

 

[jharkin]

Well, we have liftoff. I'm off work for the week and the temp today was not forecast to break out of the 30's so the mrs. suggest I light 'er up.

Here we are about an hour into the burn once I got her cruising on the cat... 400 griddle/1300 cat temp.




Later it rose to 1550, wood must be veeeeeery dry. Outside temp made it up to 41 and the sun is strong so of course now its 75F in here which is on the warm side for my blood

Meanwhile I'm working on my honey do's for the week, just finished snaking a new electrical circuit and cable run so we could move the bedroom TV into a built in cabinet next to the fireplace.

 

[Excavator]

Let me know if you need help setting it up

Thanks Reckless, I received the AT100 and got it setup no problem. I did have to fuss with the menu a few times but now it is working and I like the AT100 much better than the Condar. I like the setup for alarms and love the display on all time.

 

[Reckless]

Thanks Reckless, I received the AT100 and got it setup no problem. I did have to fuss with the menu a few times but now it is working and I like the AT100 much better than the Condar. I like the setup for alarms and love the display on all time.

What did you set them for? I did 1050 and 1550 I believe.

 

[Excavator]

What did you set them for? I did 1050 and 1550 I believe.

900 and 1600 for now. I really like this thing

 

[Diabel]

When I did my rebuild of the 2550 I also purchased on Amazon a k type probe and a digital thermometer. Can't remember how much the probe was but the thermometer was $4.00. I figured I will give it a try!

Well, after two weeks of use it started to act funny i.e. it will reach 1400* then it goes to -200* and counts back up to 0.....
That is what $4.00 gets you from China!!

Now I want to get the AT100 reader plus a probe from them, in case the Chinse one is fried as well.
On Auber site they only offer 6" probes for this application. Do I get one and cut it 2"?
Thanks

 

[Excavator]

When I did my rebuild of the 2550 I also purchased on Amazon a k type probe and a digital thermometer. Can't remember how much the probe was but the thermometer was $4.00. I figured I will give it a try!

Well, after two weeks of use it started to act funny i.e. it will reach 1400* then it goes to -200* and counts back up to 0.....
That is what $4.00 gets you from China!!

Now I want to get the AT100 reader plus a probe from them, in case the Chinse one is fried as well.
On Auber site they only offer 6" probes for this application. Do I get one and cut it 2"?
Thanks

I used the 4 inch from the condor like reckless did

 

[Diabel]

I used the 4 inch from the condor like reckless did

Thank you.
I just looked it up, and it looks like you can not cut these probes. The probe that I currently have installed is apparently good for 2000*F. Next time the stove is cold I will pull it out and see.
I will order the at100 tomorrow.

 

[elmoleaf]

Hi Guys,

I have replaced the Intrepid 1302 with an Intrepid 1990. I rebuilt it completely. The secondary air probe, refractory, troath hood and catalyst have been replaced. The problem I now have is that after reloading I let the temperature raise to 500F on stove top and then engage the catalyst. The temperature of the catalyst rages to 1000F. At that point i start to close the air control. but the catalyst continues to rise to 1500+.
When the fire burns normal. And then I close the air controller the fire does not go out. This may be due to the epa holes?
Is there something i'm doing wrong or is there a large air leak?

Thanks in advance

Xander

hi...i only go by stove top temp towards rear of griddle, so cant comment if your cat temp is normal. You wrote about rebuild...you took it down to the individual castings, recemented each together and rebolted etc the tie rods? You could have leaks between primary castings or at door glass? Keep in mind there is also a secondary air flap with probe hidden in back... check to ensure not stuck open.

 

[Excavator]

In regards to using the Auber AT100 I have noticed that it responds almost instantly showing temps change when I back down air. My condar never responded like this and might have had a bad one from start. I feel like I have much better control of stove now and it responds to my air control much better.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Hello everyone. I have been reading this forum since last year. Tons of information on here so thanks to all the diehards who help all the new guys get there stoves in order. My question is is it normal for the encore to pull air through the secondary opening when in bypass mode? I have an encore 2250 which I believe is the same stove as the 2550. This will be more than likely be the first of many questions so any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Reckless]

Hello everyone. I have been reading this forum since last year. Tons of information on here so thanks to all the diehards who help all the new guys get there stoves in order. My question is is it normal for the encore to pull air through the secondary opening when in bypass mode? I have an encore 2250 which I believe is the same stove as the 2550. This will be more than likely be the first of many questions so any advice is greatly appreciated.

The secondary is hooked to a bimetallic coil and helps aid in cat light off. If it is in bypass the coil will never heat up thus never closing the airway. Prior to this year I had my opening stuffed with aluminum foil and the linkage unhooked.

 

[X-trema]

hi...i only go by stove top temp towards rear of griddle, so cant comment if your cat temp is normal. You wrote about rebuild...you took it down to the individual castings, recemented each together and rebolted etc the tie rods? You could have leaks between primary castings or at door glass? Keep in mind there is also a secondary air flap with probe hidden in back... check to ensure not stuck open.

Yes I recemented all the castings and renewed the tie rods. The secondary air flap in the back is working, it opens and closes smoothly.
I'm gonna check the seams, and check at what temperature the secondary air flap is completely closed. Maybe because I have it replaced it has to be adjusted.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

The secondary is hooked to a bimetallic coil and helps aid in cat light off. If it is in bypass the coil will never heat up thus never closing the airway. Prior to this year I had my opening stuffed with aluminum foil and the linkage unhooked.

So I am assuming this is why the fire will burn in the back of the firebox when I start to shut down the primary.

 

[Reckless]

So I am assuming this is why the fire will burn in the back of the firebox when I start to shut down the primary.

Why are you shutting down the primary in bypass? The only point of bypass for many of us is to get the flue gasses hot enough for cat light off. With the cat engaged and the secondary set between 2-4 o'clock it should be completely closed by 1050-1100 cat temp.

 

[Reckless]

Yes I recemented all the castings and renewed the tie rods. The secondary air flap in the back is working, it opens and closes smoothly.
I'm gonna check the seams, and check at what temperature the secondary air flap is completely closed. Maybe because I have it replaced it has to be adjusted.

I think I have a small leak somewhere in the bottom of the stove after a complete rebuild. My solution was to leave the ash pan completely filled and leave a good base of ash in the bottom of the firebox.... Leak fixed lol

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Why are you shutting down the primary in bypass? The only point of bypass for many of us is to get the flue gasses hot enough for cat light off. With the cat engaged and the secondary set between 2-4 o'clock it should be completely closed by 1050-1100 cat temp.

I don't run my stove 24/7. So when I start with a a cold stove I often try and keep the GT temps from hitting 700 while I am also trying to produce some good coals before I close the damper. However your question got me thinking. I was was starting fires by getting some kindling burning then adding a couple larger pieces then adding a couple larger pieces and so on. Last night I did the burn down method (large pieces on bottom kindling on top) and great success. Was running in cat mode in less than an hour. I also got rid of the Condar and hooked up the AT100. What a world of difference. Condar is robbing people.