2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

[Ashful]

Than what, a Firelight 12?

Definitely, but even that old Firelight gets better burn times than most new stoves owned by our forum members. So, add PE, Quad, VC, Harman, and as many others as you'd like to that statement.

 

[kennyp2339]

I will not risk getting a non oem part. Hecklers seems to be the bk part. I'll try my bk dealer first if he can handle shipping it.

I got the order in today, it's def a high density gasket, but it's not solid white, the outside had a charcoal jacket, solid white internally

 

[webby3650]

I think webby3650 has done that but I don't believe he's a golfer.

What exactly have I done?

 

[blueguy]

I got the order in today, it's def a high density gasket, but it's not solid white, the outside had a charcoal jacket, solid white internally

The OEM door gasket isn't high density and is charcoal with a white interior. Are you sure you got high density gasket? The OEM high density gasket is more a silvery colour throughout the entire cross section and is used for the bypass.

 

[kennyp2339]

I just remember seeing the door gasket as a white one, I might have been BK star struck though as most new stove owners are at first. I was just assuming the door gasket was high density, I've herd other members here reference it as that, I might have comprehended that wrong though, sorry for the misleading info.
I also got a mobile home hook up (kind of a waste since all I needed was the little plate that attaches to the stove) I hooked that all up, the fire seems like it always has been, the oak pipe is freezing cold though, so its working.
The convection deck seems legit, I'm not talking fireworks here but the air coming from the blower seems more focused and warmer.

 

[Woody Stover]

What exactly have I done?

Post #1441 and #1442, "Then he showed me how well his BK Ashford....burned wet wood."

 

[webby3650]

Post #1441 and #1442, "Then he showed me how well his BK Ashford....burned wet wood."

I don't typically burn "wet" wood, but I've been in a pich on occasion. These stoves are much more tollerable of under seasoned wood than many others I've ran. I really doubt I'm the only one that's found myself in this situation.

 

[Ashful]

These stoves are much more tollerable of under seasoned wood than many others I've ran. I really doubt I'm the only one that's found myself in this situation.

I agree this seems to be true of cat stoves in general, but this is exactly the opposite of the claims I read from most others on this forum. Bottom line, a cat can keep secondary burn going at a much lower temperature, so why would they not be more tolerant of maintaining secondary burn with poorly seasoned wood? The answer may be in ceramic cat durability, but SteelCats have overcome the issue of steam impingement.

 

[Ashful]

Attention Princess burners: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/advice-ideal-steel-or-blaze-king-princess.152006/

 

[Dairyman]

I agree this seems to be true of cat stoves in general, but this is exactly the opposite of the claims I read from most others on this forum. Bottom line, a cat can keep secondary burn going at a much lower temperature, so why would they not be more tolerant of maintaining secondary burn with poorly seasoned wood? The answer may be in ceramic cat durability, but SteelCats have overcome the issue of steam impingement.

I've never used one but all of that makes perfect sense. Having a bypass to get the fire going has to help as well.

 

[jetsam]

I agree this seems to be true of cat stoves in general, but this is exactly the opposite of the claims I read from most others on this forum. Bottom line, a cat can keep secondary burn going at a much lower temperature, so why would they not be more tolerant of maintaining secondary burn with poorly seasoned wood? The answer may be in ceramic cat durability, but SteelCats have overcome the issue of steam impingement.

I bought a new house in September and started out with no wood laid in. I have brought in about 3 cords of assorted deadwood so far (plus however much I've burned). The stuff I feed my Princess insert runs 25-40%+ MC. I don't get 20 hour burn times, but it heats the whole house and runs long enough for overnights and going to work. Creosote buildup was enough that I got a few cups out of the liner after shoulder season, and almost plugged the vent cap once. (I started checking it every week after that!)

I'd rather have dry wood, but if you don't, it's not the end of the world- just check your flue and cap every week or two, sweep as needed, and don't expect the same performance the fancy people with dry wood get.

If my cat cracks into pieces due to this abuse (it looks perfect so far though)-, I will buy a new steelcat and laugh all the way to the bank- I saved enough on my first oil delivery to buy two or three of 'em.

 

[kennyp2339]

The parts I ordered came in Thursday, here are some pics, I added a OAK and convection deck, I was nervous about adding the oak due to the fact of having to punch a 4" hole into the foundation, but it wasn't that bad, I did a 4" hole on the outside for a dryer vent, cut the vent pipe down and added a 4" to 3" reducer and elbow and did a 3 1/2" hole on the inside, I took a can of spray foam and filled the cavity up, sealing everything good. The I ran about 6 1/2ft of solid 3" pipe straight down to some 3" metal flex pipe (comes with the oak kit) and (2) 90's attached to the oak plate on the stove, this took me about an hour to do and was real easy.
The convection deck was even easier, clean the top of the stove, take the smoke pipe off, lay plate on, reconnect the smoke pipe. I like the convection deck, it seems to really focus the air coming out of the blower over the top of the stove, the heat just oozes out when the blower is running low.

 

[Lanningjw]

On my princess answered I remove the block off plate and decided not to run it I want the heat going up the pipe all the way in the chimney and keeping it warm I think that's a better idea with this type of stove

 

[kennyp2339]

The one thing I noticed with the added oak is that my t-stat setting have changed, to get a full low burn I'm now setting it just below 1.5, before I was right at setting 2.0. 2.0 now gives me flames in the fire box, this is pretty interesting / cool, temps are suppose to take a dive on Sunday so we'll see how the added accessories heat the place

 

[BKVP]

The parts I ordered came in Thursday, here are some pics, I added a OAK and convection deck, I was nervous about adding the oak due to the fact of having to punch a 4" hole into the foundation, but it wasn't that bad, I did a 4" hole on the outside for a dryer vent, cut the vent pipe down and added a 4" to 3" reducer and elbow and did a 3 1/2" hole on the inside, I took a can of spray foam and filled the cavity up, sealing everything good. The I ran about 6 1/2ft of solid 3" pipe straight down to some 3" metal flex pipe (comes with the oak kit) and (2) 90's attached to the oak plate on the stove, this took me about an hour to do and was real easy.
The convection deck was even easier, clean the top of the stove, take the smoke pipe off, lay plate on, reconnect the smoke pipe. I like the convection deck, it seems to really focus the air coming out of the blower over the top of the stove, the heat just oozes out when the blower is running low.

View attachment 172143 View attachment 172146

STOP!! Do not burn your stove as you have this installed!! Fresh air can not be run higher than the bottom of the firebox!! Doing so can reverse draft in a perfect storm.

Chris

 

[rdust]

STOP!! Do not burn your stove as you have this installed!! Fresh air can not be run higher than the bottom of the firebox!! Doing so can reverse draft in a perfect storm.

Chris

Looks like basement install, not sure how you overcome that.

 

[BKVP]

If it's not a daylight you cannot use one. If it is daylight, you run it along the floor to the outside wall and cover the air inlet with a box, chase etc..

 

[Rossco]

90% of all installs here require an OAK above the firebox. My permit actually requires an Outside air connection.

So, do you recommend I disconnect the OAK at the stove and leave it resting near by?

 

[webby3650]

90% of all installs here require an OAK above the firebox. My permit actually requires an Outside air connection.

So, do you recommend I disconnect the OAK at the stove and leave it resting near by?

I very rarely run into an install that would require the OAK to be above the firebox. 90%? Maybe 10% around here.

 

[Rossco]

I very rarely run into an install that would require the OAK to be above the firebox. 90%? Maybe 10% around here.

Yeah for sure but my stove is buried 5' underground in the basement.

 

[kennyp2339]

got the memo thanks... I owe you a beer next time your in New Jersey or near here

 

[Highbeam]

STOP!! Do not burn your stove as you have this installed!! Fresh air can not be run higher than the bottom of the firebox!! Doing so can reverse draft in a perfect storm.

Chris

Is that in the manual? The draft could reverse with no oak and dump the smoke into the house. Might be better to send it up the oak to daylight.

 

[Rossco]

Is that in the manual? The draft could reverse with no oak and dump the smoke into the house. Might be better to send it up the oak to daylight.

100% agree.

I also have separate outside air feeds in the basement to facilitate pressure balance. One is directed to the back of the heater. Fans create negative pressure pulling air in. Positive pressure in the home. Looking at the water level in the toilet is a good indicator of + vs - pressure.

 

[kennyp2339]

My current draft is great but I'm not going to take any chances,
I think the reasoning behind air draw above the stove to a below grade setup is the same with some people that have a stack effect problem. The last thing I want to do is get co in the house or worse vent combusted air through a oak that is next to my fancy vinyl siding and lite the place up.

 

[Fireflies]

Cold house with new Blaze King Sirocco 20! Help! We have a new install of the Sirocco 20 with double wall 6" pipe rising" 20 to 2- 45 degrees and then 16" to wall. Then through the wall to exterior 6" diameter double wall stainless steel chimney approx. 18' with cap with spark arrestor. We are burning mostly red oak with tested moisture 12-14% (tested with an inexpensive 2 prong meter). House is 1344 sq feet though we don't expect super warm upstairs so technically less than 700 square feet. Previously we had for 10 years a cat Dutchwest 2640. So, based on original dealer install, we had oozing creosote and heavy creosote build up on the window. The dealer worked with BK to diagnose issues and so we upgraded to the double wall inside pipe. This seems to have helped with the creosote though we haven't re-checked the exterior chimney. We also learned from BK that the temp gauge should probably be no lower than 2:30 if 6 o'clock would be fully open (high). So now we do still have a fair bit of creosote in the window corners that doesn't burn off but it is better and BK states this is normal though we are still a little doubtful based on our experience with the Dutchwest and how creosote burns off when running properly. When the temps have been in the mid 20's to low 30's we haven't been able to get the house temp above 65. We do like the fact of the long burn time though still see no reason why our house shouldn't be a tad warmer (or A LOT warmer based on other forum posts). Is it possible that the heat is going up the chimney? Any ideas?