2012-2013 Blaze King Performance Thread(everything BK)

[HotCoals]

Get your dollar bill out on a cold stove and check. I replace the gasket every couple of years just to make sure. The door latch on mine broke when I tried to ajust it.

That was not my question..I was just wondering IF your door seal was bad ,which way is it hard on the cat..but thanks anyways.

 

[Highbeam]

I adjusted my door a couple of weeks ago and didn't notice anything inadequate with the hardware. Are you guys busting the actual rod? Even after adjustment, the door latch only takes a light effort to fully seat. The only thing I worried about during the adjustment was whether the threads in the stove would be seized, galled, or damaged by the adjustment.

Is the rope gasket easy to replace?

 

[weatherguy]

I adjusted mine after the first year, unfortunately I didnt double check it last year and wrecked my cat, I put a new cat in and adjusted the door, its adjusted all the way so next step is a new gasket, Ill probably buy it now and if we get a warm spell Ill install it then.
The BK guy did say the worst thing for the cat is a leaky door and hes right, thats what did mine in.

 

[daleeper]

The BK guy did say the worst thing for the cat is a leaky door and hes right, thats what did mine in.

What is it about the leaky door that ruins the cat? Overfiring or something else?

 

[HotCoals]

What is it about the leaky door that ruins the cat? Overfiring or something else?

He didn't really say..but I think more along the lines of cool air hitting the really hot cat.
I'm sure over firing is right up there though.

 

[jtb51b]

I understood that the problem was the cold air being leaking directly into the cat, not an overfire situation. I am in the refractory industry, and I can tell you that thermal shock is hell on ceramics. I have seen millions of dollars lost due to cold air on hot refractory.. I will be ordering my new CAT on monday, I sure hope it makes a big difference..

Jason

 

[regalflyer]

High folks, long time off the forum - but I have been following the BK one now because I own one -
I need to order a new Cat because I broke my old one when I removed it for inspection and cleaning this year. It was the first attempt at removal, and it was very hard to get out. My mistake was prying at the bottom middle of the stainless band. I cracked several sections of the ceramic cells and they just shake out of the case.

My question is - should I try to find a stainless version, or should I re-order the Condar ceramic version? Which is easier to remove/replace for cleaning service?

 

[Todd]

High folks, long time off the forum - but I have been following the BK one now because I own one -
I need to order a new Cat because I broke my old one when I removed it for inspection and cleaning this year. It was the first attempt at removal, and it was very hard to get out. My mistake was prying at the bottom middle of the stainless band. I cracked several sections of the ceramic cells and they just shake out of the case.

My question is - should I try to find a stainless version, or should I re-order the Condar ceramic version? Which is easier to remove/replace for cleaning service?

Personally I'd stick with ceramic. I have had discussions with a couple manufactures and although the steel cats resist thermal shock and light off a little quicker the ceramic cats burn a little hotter for longer. Get a Firecat from Applied ceramic, they are $100 cheaper than Condar.

Also, I don't think there is any need to remove the cat for cleaning unless it's plugged up really bad with creosote from burning wet wood. You should be able to just remove the guard and either brush,vacuume or blow the fly ash out with a low pressure air can.

 

[regalflyer]

Thanks Todd,
Ordered the Firecat - on sale as well good deal made in USA -

I think the old one was warped from accidentally running with the door open for 15 minutes before I realized it on one reload -

 

[Lanningjw]

High folks, long time off the forum - but I have been following the BK one now because I own one -
I need to order a new Cat because I broke my old one when I removed it for inspection and cleaning this year. It was the first attempt at removal, and it was very hard to get out. My mistake was prying at the bottom middle of the stainless band. I cracked several sections of the ceramic cells and they just shake out of the case.

My question is - should I try to find a stainless version, or should I re-order the Condar ceramic version? Which is easier to remove/replace for cleaning service?

From your experience, what the best way to remove the cat?

 

[Highbeam]

I just installed 70 ceiling joists in my barn. 14 feet off the ground with joist hangers on trusses 12 feet apart. Anyway, I have lots of short cut offs of dry 2x6 hem/fir, whatever tree that is. What is the deal with burning lumber? I recall someone saying that clean lumber is fine in a cat stove but I know it is trouble in a non-cat due to the runaway nature of them. Pack it tight? Mix in a few pieces here and there? I'm not interested in risking the health of my stove, just want to utilize the fuel source if it is safe.

 

[jeff_t]

I think there is always the unknown of what chemicals it might have on it, even if it isn't pressure treated. Not saying I haven't burned a bit.

 

[Wet1]

I've burned plenty of non-PT wood (2" x X") in my stove, no issues at all. I've never packed it with just the scraps, just threw several pieces in at a time... probably 1/2 loaded with scrapes is the most I've done and the thermostat/stove had no issues with keeping it under control. Honestly I'm sure you could load it all the way up if you so desired, I've just always used the scraps to fill in the odd voids of a load or to burn a quick fire to take the chill off. Wish I had a lot more of them!

 

[Beetle-Kill]

1x and 2x cut-offs can be packed as tight as you want. I've filled mine to the gills a number of times and enjoyed 24 hr.+ burns from those loads.
just no PT, painted, or stained pieces.

 

[regalflyer]

From your experience, what the best way to remove the cat?

Remove the fire screen, and then gently pry each side of the converter by the edges built into the can. Just use slow, even, alternating operations until it loosens up -
Mine had warped a bit from operating it with the door open accidently - it was clean and I did not need to remove it. I have been burning very dry wood, and other than a light vacuum I would not touch it unless you can see many plugged cells -

 

[ohlongarm]

Remove the fire screen, and then gently pry each side of the converter by the edges built into the can. Just use slow, even, alternating operations until it loosens up -
Mine had warped a bit from operating it with the door open accidently - it was clean and I did not need to remove it. I have been burning very dry wood, and other than a light vacuum I would not touch it unless you can see many plugged cells -

Question about stovetop temps,last night went down to 20,so I loaded the King for the first time with a full load red oak about 8 years old seasoned,stove in 2 hours hit 850* and the cat was at 1400 and got so red balls of fire were twirling around in the honeycombs,my air was at 2.5 no pinging or anything but crankin cut the air back to about 1.75 and she settled in about 750* and the cat at 1300 went 3 hours like that and dropped only slightly,went to bed left window open 16 feet from stove house at 8am 72 it's 11am now just a little bit of powdery ash left stovetop 300 cat about 400,will reload at 4pm was that scenario okay,as far as the high temps generated by the cat and fuel..

 

[Highbeam]

I have also seen the flames at the face of the cat when the fire is making visible smoke but no flame on the logs. Plasma flames maybe, I don't know, but they looked weird and the cat was fully up to temp.

Stove top temps of 850. Wouldn't that cause a glow somewhere? Did you have the room lights on? Did you observe any glowing parts? I would not run a plate steel stove over 800 since that is what many plate steel stove manufacturers identify as their redline.

 

[BrowningBAR]

I have also seen the flames at the face of the cat when the fire is making visible smoke but no flame on the logs. Plasma flames maybe, I don't know, but they looked weird and the cat was fully up to temp.

Stove top temps of 850. Wouldn't that cause a glow somewhere? Did you have the room lights on? Did you observe any glowing parts? I would not run a plate steel stove over 800 since that is what many plate steel stove manufacturers identify as their redline.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/has-anyone-had-this-happen.100399/#post-1285880

Not recommending this, but I can say by accident I've seen my stove (as read by my IR thermometer) head a few ticks over 900 before. Since we were there already, and I'm the curious type, I shut every possible light down and also blocked the glass as best I could looking for anything glowing.

No glowing to be found.

pen

 

[Highbeam]

So I was finally able to load a huge load of firewood into the BK, only because the stove was cool enough to keep it's smoke in while I placed the splits and cleaned the glass. Only 11 splits but it's a full load.

Oh and what the heck, the pug approves.

 

[jtb51b]

I load like that all the time, unless its just going to be too warm. Seems mine used to run better loaded full. I ordered my new cat friday, it shipped today so I hope to be back in business as soon as I get back from out west. Wish me luck!

Jason

 

[rdust]

So I was finally able to load a huge load of firewood into the BK, only because the stove was cool enough to keep it's smoke in while I placed the splits and cleaned the glass. Only 11 splits but it's a full load.

Oh and what the heck, the pug approves.

What type of outdoor temps are you seeing now? Once our temps get into the lower 40's I don't have to deal with smoke spillage. Did you ever add another section of pipe, with the warmer temps you guys have I think it would really benefit you. Would it be difficult to add another section and remove it during the off season if you don't like the look of it?

In your short time use have you been happy with the stove?

 

[Todd]

Earlier in the season I was getting some smoke spilage as well but now that it has gotten colder it's not a problem, even shoveling ash out is working better as most of the fly ash gets sucked back in from the draft.

Kind a funny now that it's a little colder I'm not packing the stove full anymore and just loading enough to burn a 12 hour load at #2. If I load this thing up full and burn at 2 it will go for 16+. I also haven't had to clean the glass at all for the last 3 weeks. It stays nice and clean except the extreme edges.

The Keystone is getting lonely but it has to get colder before I want to burn two stoves.

 

[Highbeam]

What type of outdoor temps are you seeing now? Once our temps get into the lower 40's I don't have to deal with smoke spillage. Did you ever add another section of pipe, with the warmer temps you guys have I think it would really benefit you. Would it be difficult to add another section and remove it during the off season if you don't like the look of it?

In your short time use have you been happy with the stove?

Our conditions now are raw and wet. Temps from 35-45 and mostly dark while raining which is pretty much the standard deal until May. The 24 hour burn cycle is still sufficient for a cool home but the women are complaining that it is "only" 71 in the stove room before reload. I have pushed up the stat to 1.75 for the burn which seems to give more heat sooner in the cycle but I still have the same amount of coals after 24 hours to reload and cleanER glass. Might consider 2-12 hour cycles with smaller loads soon.

My wood is very well seasoned if not too old and a lower btu hardwood. I have run into a few wet spots where the rain has made it to the stacks since I only top cover the stack. Every once in awhile a wetter split makes it into the fire and the end bubbles during the burn. Is this a problem?

I will not be adding more pipe. I exceed the minimum and and more stack would require a roof brace. The only improvement that I plan to make to my flue is to replace the damper section with a straight through appliance adapter. That might be enough of an improvement to suck ashes better. It's not just the open damper in the flue but also the holes in the flue where the operating rod enter. Each of these are reductions in draft strength to a device that is already sensitive. I have found that throwing a couple sheets of newspaper into the firebox before reloading establishes a better draft for less smoke at reload.

After just over half of a cord burned, I am thrilled with this stove. It has exceeded my expectations for performance and the looks are even growing on me. The big difference that the family notices is the steady temperature, we only swing about 5 degrees in 24 hours where the non-cat created swings more than twice as big.

We've been able to travel, thanksgiving dinner, parties, etc. and return home the next day to a still burning stove and warm home. That's been a big improvement over non-cat craziness.

What am I going to do with all this wood?

 

[claybe]

I just found this thread and can't wait to read all the way through when I have some time....in the mean time can any of you answer the following:

I am almost ready to pull the trigger on a Blaze King Princess Insert. I have a Ranch style home with a walk out basement. I have a fireplace in the basement and on the main level. My question is: If I put this in the basement (approx. 1000 sq ft), will it heat the main level well enough that I don't have to use my other heat source, or should I put it on the main level (approx. 2000 sq ft.) and we would stay out of the basement for the winter months? There is an open staircase that goes down stairs that does not have a door if that helps.

Thanks....can't wait to "join the club!"

 

[jtb51b]

I just found this thread and can't wait to read all the way through when I have some time....in the mean time can any of you answer the following:

I am almost ready to pull the trigger on a Blaze King Princess Insert. I have a Ranch style home with a walk out basement. I have a fireplace in the basement and on the main level. My question is: If I put this in the basement (approx. 1000 sq ft), will it heat the main level well enough that I don't have to use my other heat source, or should I put it on the main level (approx. 2000 sq ft.) and we would stay out of the basement for the winter months? There is an open staircase that goes down stairs that does not have a door if that helps.

Thanks....can't wait to "join the club!"

I heat my home in a warmer climate from the basement. It is very possible, but you have a couple things working against you: The size of your home (1000 +2000) is a bit much for a princess to heat without running her pretty warm all the time, which will cause the 1000' basement to be a good bit hotter than upstairs. The other issue is using an insert vs a free standing unit. The insert will not do as well a job in this particular setting as a free standing unit would with all that extra exposed steel to add to the convective heating. Once you join the "club" you will be a very happy wood burner as these stoves are very, very efficient. Who knows, you might end up with 2 inserts by the end of this! You could really dial it back and have long long burn times that way!

Jason