You all have heard it before 'outside is the only place for my chimney'

[MedicineMan4040]

Hoytman you 0.02 is worth a lot.
I want the stove. She says ok to that corner placement inside the basement, attached a pic of the basement. Picture taken from the area right where you walk in the basement door.
I wanted the pipe inside the house for the majority of its run. After showing her stoves work better that way she finaly said ok to the stove
flue pipe going straight up all the way to the sky.
Exposed pipe, well she likes the looks of black pipe. Like our Aspen here at the current house.
But if you say go through the basement wall and then up through the deck and the upper eave then that's what we'll plan for.
Also attaching a rough floor plan of our new house.
There is no way in heck she'll let me put in near the stairs in the basement

And some good news (kinda), I asked real estate agent about insulation in the basement. Owners report the walls are insulated...but with what and how much I won't know until I do an exploratory drill.

 

[begreen]

The floorplan and stove location help a lot. The chase needs to provide at least 2" clearance to the class A chimney pipe passing through it. Figure 8" diameter for chimney pipe so the minimum ID of the chase will be 12" plus the framing, so maybe 14" x 14" in the living room corner, but that depends on floor joist clearance too. To somewhat hide the chase, a cabinet or display cupboard could be built alongside of it. In the 2nd floor bedroom, would that put it in the kneewall behind the existing wall? If so, no chase is needed there.

 

[Hoytman]

Hey don’t put this on me. LOL! It’s your installation and you and your wife have to live with it. I’m just throwing out suggestions, same as others have offered .😂

My intention isn’t to tell you what to do, but to mention different scenarios to help make an informed decision.

Inside the home chimney is always best for draft, but also a worry of roof leaking too. Ask @Bholler…Class A up the side of the house may not be that different as far as draft is concerned and would allow cleaning of chimney through a bottom clean out “T” or from stove, and could be less physical labor and cost. All things to consider.

There are pro’s and cons to each. Ask @bholler to help you work through these. He will help you make a better informed decision.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

"Class A up the side of the house may not be that different as far as draft is concerned" That is
incredibly important, and the cleaning at a T close to ground is also very very important.
And if we go the outside route I believe we can 'chase' it all the way up to the roof line.

No sir Hoytman, not putting it on you, and very appreciative of all the back-n-forth. I learn each time.

BGreen, good to know it will most likely be behind the kneewall if we go that route.

Next I'm going to ask you two which stove you'd pick given the choice of Jotul F55 or Osburn Matrix. Both
pass the wife's 'eye' exam. I lean to the Matrix simply because it is higher and I can sit on my woodstove bench
and tend the stove easier. I have dealers of both Jotul and Osburn within an hour of the new house. Pacific Energy
seems like the way to go but there are thousands of miles from me. I did consider for a while the Hearthstones, especially
the Green Mountain 60, but after hours of reading I figured the vagaries of it would (puff of smoke in the face) would
mean the wife never builds a fire.

 

[begreen]

They are two very different looks but both will work. Osburn makes good stoves. The Jotul has a 20% larger firebox. From a practical standpoint, my preference is toward stoves that load N/S and I like the softening of the heat by a cast iron jacket. If one wants the stove to be higher, the hearth could be built with log storage underneath.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

Bgreen, thanks as always.
I just went over the above posts with the wife.
She ultimately said 'do whatever you want, you're going to do that anyway.'
Then she asked, IF we go the outside wall route can the pipe be black from where it exits the block wall up to the roof line and
then be silver.
I told her I would ask.
My question about the pipe. if we go the through the block wall and up route, is can it also be insulated double wall so someone standing there won't get burned by touching it.
I looked at Duravent, maybe I didn't look (google) enough, but I didn't see black double wall insulated for outside use?

OK that's enough questions for the day.

Forgot, if you know of a link I can show her of black exterior class A pipe please share.

 

[begreen]

I'm getting the distinct impression that she really wants it to be exterior. It's good to strike a compromise. Happy wife = happy life.
All class A chimney pipe must be insulated to HT2000 spec. Some companies make black chimney pipe in addition their stainless or galvanized line of chimney pipe.
The pipe will project from the wall at least 10". What is the distance from the building to the rail of the deck area where the penetration is proposed?

 

[Jay106n]

I didn’t read the entire thread, I’m sure someone already mentioned it, but make sure that chimney top is higher than your roof peak

 

[MedicineMan4040]

Bgreen, the rail of the deck? The rail that keeps you from falling off the deck is quite a ways from the wall where the chimney pipe will run up.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

another view of the deck run

 

[MedicineMan4040]

Making progress.
I've found and made contact with a pro wood stove intaller/one who has installed many wood stoves and Duravent/Silkirk chimneys AND who works in my area.
He's coming to my house on Dec. 15th for eyes on and measuring.
The wife and I've decided on the woodstove---the Osburn Matrix , UNLESS this latest discovery changes that, and here is the discovery-
VA-WPT0630 - 6" Ventis Class-A All Fuel Chimney, 30 Degree Wall Pass-Thru, Non-Insulated

Ventis 6'' Class-A 30 Degree Wall Pass-Thru

Ventis 6 inch Class-A Solid Fuel Chimney 30 Degree Wall Pass-Thru

www.stove-parts.net

Are any of you familiar with this?
How do you think this would work with the Osburn Matrix, in the basement (8 foot ceiling), passing through concrete/cinder block wall
and then up.
When I first saw this 30 degree passthrough I thought (with my current grade school knowledge on all of this) that 30 degrees is better than 45 degrees (and both are way better than 90 degree turns).

On the outside I would hate to loose my T-pipe for ease of cleaning. I would be nice if there was a Duravent Class A component that allowed (maybe there is one but I can't find it) the Class A pipe running through this 30 degree wall pass through to connect to the Class A that will run to the sky above the clean out in the T-pipe.

Here's more info on it-

30 Degree Thru Wall Chimneys - Chimney 101

A 30 degree through the wall installation is one where the stove pipe elbows out through a wall at 30 degrees, and includes a wall thimble to minimize heat transfer.

chimney101.com

Your thoughts as always appreciated.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

Don't know if you guys remember me but an Osburn Matrix wood stove has been ordered
along with $3700 worth of things like 6UT48, DSP6:TL, etc.etc.
I met up with THE wood stove installer in my area...evidently the only one in a 75 mile radius
that serves my semi-remote area. He came to the house, looked at all three floors and said no
reason I can't have a wood stove. He asked about the flue route and I told him after weeks working
on the wife that we were to keep the chimney/flue inside the house until it exits the attic. He liked that
and also liked our choice of stoves, saying he'd installed many Osburns. I asked how many wood stoves he'd installed
and he told me well over a hundred....reassuring
When we get the installation rolling (should be 2-3 weeks before the parts/stove start trickling in, I'll post up pics.
Also you might recall the basement location WAS carpeted. I removed the carpet and pad, found 'wonderful' lineoleum
that had been glued to a concrete slab 50 years ago haha! It was fun (not) but a Wagner steamer and a long handled scraper
made it tolerable. Now in its place is a newly installed porcelain wood look tile floor.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

A giant step. Stove has arrived. Seemed like months ago I was posting about this and we hadn't even acquire the house yet...delivered by semi-truck when I told Osburn to tell the trucking firm NO semi's. They offloaded the
Matrix into the back of my little pickup for the run up the driveway. There is sat until my brother came by today. We backed the pickup
to a bank, used my Mule SX to pull it off. Then we slid it down the bank onto dowell/rollers, PVC tubes I grabbed a Lowes. Then we rolled it to the door, strapped dollies high on the crate and low, slowly turned it onto the dollies in the door frame. Minutes later took the crate off
and stood it up. Discovered 2 cracked all the way through firebricks....hoping Lowes has the correct size (are firebricks a standard size?).
Anyway she's roughly in position. Now I wait for all the Class A pipe to arrive, the flashing, etc. and the woodstove install man.

 

[Hoytman]

If Lowes doesn’t have them any farm store should, standard size most likely.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

Favor everyone.
Since the wife as agreed to let me go up through the house with the chimney flue she's been looking for the chase might look like as it goes through the living room. So far we can only find one image googling and it is here at Hearth.com, here's the thread (Bumblebee posted the pic) https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/second-floor-chimney-enclosure-in-bedroom.173575/
Surely there are other pictures out there somewhere to give us ideas of what to 'clad' the chase with. We like metal versus sheet rock.
Attached some metal work we did in the living room of our other house. Mentioning this because we've done a lot of metal work and framing for it would be easy.

 

[Max W]

Buying a house and moving are big stressors. It looks like there there are other things the family is dealing with as well. Have you thought about holding off on installing your stove? Maybe gettting settled into your home and enjoying that together first. That may help to reach the best decisions on where the chimney goes or maybe even a rethink on where you want the stove. When it comes to chimney placement, of course an interior chimney has real benefits but if it comes to it lots of people run their stoves effectively with an outside chimney. Listening and finding win/win will go a long way. What about first constructing a place to dry and store wood?

 

[MedicineMan4040]

Buying a house and moving are big stressors. It looks like there there are other things the family is dealing with as well. Have you thought about holding off on installing your stove? Maybe gettting settled into your home and enjoying that together first. That may help to reach the best decisions on where the chimney goes or maybe even a rethink on where you want the stove. When it comes to chimney placement, of course an interior chimney has real benefits but if it comes to it lots of people run their stoves effectively with an outside chimney. Listening and finding win/win will go a long way. What about first constructing a place to dry and store wood?

Max thanks for your thoughts. Understood/living it, the stress of moving and living in two homes. Much much discussion on an inside flue run or outside. The wife is good with the inside run now after the wood stove installer came and verified everything I'd told her. Dry wood storage at the other house is good and will be here in time. Storing in mass here will take some time though but we have a plan for that too. Our problem in the big picture has been getting contractors to do various things. I'd guess that is a universal problem everywhere but eventually we do get things done (like tiling the floor in the basement for the woodstove.
Now about holding off on the actual installation. No. The only installer who has credentials for this type of thing is booked. I had to wait 3 months just to get him for the appraisal. Now I'm on the schedule for the install and only the weather (or a sudden heart attack) would stop that.

 

[Max W]

Glad to hear it. Looking good. Oh, and skip the heart attack.

 

[bigealta]

Did the install happen? scrap that i see the other post.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

Bigealta, next Tuesday is the day.
Today I spoke with the woodstove store and all the flu pieces are ready for the
installer to pick up.

I just posted a question in a new thread wondering about condensation where the flashing goes
around the pipe that immediately exits the roof. Selkirk says nothing withing two inches.....my flu
exits conditioned warm moist space directly to the cold brutal world. Next week we'll be 1-5F in the
mornings. So I ancitipate condensation where the only thing separating warm moist from super cold is
thin flashing metal.

I wonder if I'm the only one who has puzzled over this? I'm just hoping the installing has dealt with it before.

 

[begreen]

Our setup is somewhat similar. The chimney passes through the kneewall space and up out the roof with a flashing cone above. It has no insulation and condensation has not been an issue but this is with DuraVent chimney and we are in a different climate.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

Do you think Durvent is so different than Selkirk? Matters not, just curious. The stove store I bought all the pipe
from has sold Selkirk for decades.
Climate.....well maybe similar is some ways. Spring/summer/early fall we are frought with humidity. In winter it
can get amazingly dry.
Back to my install. The knee wall is right beside my wife's office and a door access panel is there, so opening up the door
and looking at the flue pipe exiting the roof from 2 feet away I'll be easily able to look for condensation. Maybe I'm just
being paranoid about it. Time will tell. First things first.....

 

[begreen]

Last I recall, Selkirk had ventilation slots around the top of their flashing cone.

 

[MedicineMan4040]

And those ventilation slots help prevent condensation?
And I guess they let all my hard earned how escape too

 

[webby3650]

And those ventilation slots help prevent condensation?
And I guess they let all my hard earned how escape too

We don’t use their flashing for a few reasons. On the steep roof flashing, the base is only 10” wide, in order to maintain clearances you have a 1” gap around it. Looks bad. They are also more prone to leaks from blown in rain from the vents. The dura vent flashing is still ventilated, and has a larger storm collar. It’s a much better flashing.