Anyone ever try loading this stove instead of Norht-South or East-West, but UP-DOWN? Or any other stove for that matter?
I have a bunch of very short (12") but chunky (good size) maple splits, and after loading the other night, I placed one standing up right inside the door since that side of the stove was empty basically. Next morning, all the wood was burned down to a coal bed, except that one piece standing up, was only about 1/4 burned, and still burning nicely. Got me thinking, what if you load the entire stove with short splits standing up? You sure could get alot of wood in there, and I would think it would burn very slowly.... ?
Don't know. Maybe if you started from a cool stove, and could safely work closely in the stove, you could tightly pack short (say 8 inch) large diameter pieces (ie: cut 16-18 inch relatively square splits in half), light it up and see what happens. I'd personally try this during a cold spell with a good draft. You might get a slow long fire at low air, or you might get an amazing burn.
By chance, for the first time ever in a Woodstock stove (Fireview or PH), I loaded a large split teepee fashion against a large split lying on the bottom of the stove only this morning. It took a surprising time to really ignite (piece it was against had been loaded alone, was burning well; had bypass open and air 1/2 open for new piece while waiting for new piece to be charred.). While watching it, I though about the caution, even stamped into the door, to not elevate the wood off the floor of the stove by any method, so opened the door and used the poker to edge the split flat. Then added another split (now room for a third) and have been off to the races for several hours now.
I have often put an 8-12 inch split, or more commonly round, (or more than one) in the space near the door, when it is cold out, to more fully cover the bottom of the stove. Load it up and down or on its side, depending on how it fits in the stove best, and most safely (since I take into consideration that I don't want anything rolling out the door if/when I open it). Often, these pieces near the door are in pretty good shape near the end of the burn, and I will occassioanlly open the door, push the wood near the door to the front of the stove, mess up the coals a bit, close the door and open the air a bit, for a few more hours of good burn. Did this with the Fireview too. So, although aware that the wood loaded N/S near the door, or on end near the door, burned more slowly, always attributed it to the wood being a bit further away from the main oxygen path, never to it being loaded on end. Sort of still think that is the reason, since it doesn't seem to make a difference whether I load the wood on side or end.
However, have never tried loading the entire stove on end. You could probably get a lot more wood in, if you cut it to ideal dimensions, because of the small door. I'd aim to get the wood in as tightly as possible. I think you might get a humongous fire and a huge amount of heat....but wouldn't be surprised if it was easily controllable for a long low burn. I'd just be prepared for whatever eventuality.
And, to be safe, I might run the idea by Woodstock first. They likely have input. They would likely run the experiment for you in a safe controlled setting, as they have published on their website that they will try things we ask them to try....Maybe better safe than sorry.
Will be interesting to see if you have come up with a new idea and an interesting and viable different way to burn....
to talk about the result (note all the IFs), then I'll post the results.
