Woodstock progress hybrid owners I NEED YOUR HELP!!

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Either trade that round vent out for a rectangular or square steel one for the magnetic cover, or I'm thinking I would just lay a pc of tile over top of it when not in use.Would camouflage it well.
 
You could even set it deeper/under the tile, and have a pc of tile that sets down over it, but flush with the surrounding tile.
 
OOOOOOh we love that idea! Thank you! We had not thought about that! Tile is being installed next week! So we will be doing this! Thank you, thank you!
 
It may be true that most stove buyers don't use an OAK but in my experience it tremendously helps in many ways. Worth the effort to put in to the point where I drilled a 5 inch hole through 1/4" steel, then jackhammered rock to get to the outside. The kit from Woodstock screws onto the back with a 5 inch hole facing down. I reduced it to 4 inch to metalflex painted black. I actually went through a season with the progress reducing to a 3 inch. Worked fine, but, I'm pretty experienced with woodstoves and in this situation it was OK but would not be recommended generally. I use white PVC 45 degree or 90 degree sticking out of the house above snow line then silicone screen in there. If you have snow and you come out the sill, you can snorkel up outside the house then 180 back down.
 
We are just putting the pipe into the crawl space which has vents venting all around the house into it. So plenty of fresh air for sure.

So if you have it hooked up to your progress why haven't you posted photos??

So are you saying I'd need to hook up to the stove? Can't I have the vent under stove just vented to hearth?

Woodstock seemed to think that would be completely ok

Please post photos of your fresh air vent on yr stove.
 
Yes I guess you could just have a vent. Makes no sense to me as cold air would come up some of it sucking into the stove. The rest into your house. With a woodstove you are creating a difference of air pressure because of the flue draw. Why not keep your house envelope totally out of the question? But anyway, I will post as soon as I can. They do sell a kit, simple to install and worth it. Let's just say, there are times when frost is on the metalflex. That's how cold the air is coming in from the outside.
 
Can you go straight down into the platform then underneath to the back into the wall?
 
If you by any chance have mice in your crawlspace, you may want to consider adding a metal, s.s. or copper screen inside the vent top. I had mice chew through a plastic basement floor drain cover and I ended up putting a metal gutter spout outlet ball screen down into the drain opening to keep mice out.
 
Rearscreen thank you for posting pix of yr OAK. We'd love to see that!!

Yeah I know but it will look a lot better and it's one of two options the state allows.

No can't go out the wall. It's in the middle of the house. So not outside wall.

That's why we are going to crawl space.

Oregon rarely gets colder than 20 degrees. Normal winter weather is lows in 40s or 30s
 
We are going to return the plastic vent and get the same vent as a metal one.
More durable and mice can't eat through it. Good ideas!!
 
Crawlspace fine as you described with vents. I live in VT. No crawlspace. I live in what's called the snowbelt. Moisture from the great lakes ends up in our yard. And ends up on Stratton, Bromley, Mt Snow ski resorts.....
 
wow makes me shiver reading your post! Stay warm! Yeah we don't get that cold here. We are close to the mountains but it doesn't get that cold here in the great nw where I live. And I figure the gusts would be much less too venting through a crawlspace. Not as gusty as going straight out side of house.
 
I had a PH with an OAK. Do not any longer so can't take pics.

It is unobtrusive. You could shoot straight down with 5" black stove pipe and you'd never see it. The PH is huge and it would be hidden behind it.

If you want to just provide makeup air under the stove, you could. This company sells nice looking cast grills.

(broken link removed)

My bigger concern is your hearth R value. The PH has very specific R values that must be met. Please.. please make sure 100% you meet them. That thing puts out tremendous heat all around it even with the heat shield. Please don't focus on aesthetics and miss the hearth protection. All that info can be found in its manual.
 
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My bigger concern is your hearth R value. The PH has very specific R values that must be met. Please.. please make sure 100% you meet them. That thing puts out tremendous heat all around it even with the heat shield. Please don't focus on aesthetics and miss the hearth protection. All that info can be found in its manual.
Thanks for posting this. Two layers of Durock NexGen will get you to the required R value.
 
I live in what's called the snowbelt
That aint nothing, try living in the rust belt, new car every 5 years...banks love u down here.
 
We are having the cement board put on top of the OSB with tile on top of that. I think that qualifies in what we read there......
 
Don't think we have any 'belts' here.....we just live in green beautiful heaven here in the great NW! =) No place like it! =)
 
We are having the cement board put on top of the OSB with tile on top of that. I think that qualifies in what we read there......
The Progress hearth needs to have an R value of .80. That's 2 layers of 1/2" Durock Nex Gen or 3 layers of 1/2" Hardiboard. The exception would be if the stove has the optional ash lip. Then the hearth requirement drops down to R=.40. In that case one sheet of Durock NexGen is sufficient, or 2 sheets of Hardiboard.
 
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Thank you begreen......we decided against buying the Woodstock Progress Hybrid. Loved it, beautiful stove. But we just decided to buy the Jotul F55 which we also loved. Loved both for different reasons.....but thought we would start with the Jotul and down the road if we want to switch it out and buy another brand (which many people on this forum have done) we will and can do that. =) So many beautiful wood stoves.....
 
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I always wondered how helpful an OAK is, this article caught my attention:
http://www.woodheat.org/the-outdoor-air-myth-exposed.html
I read this out of curiosity. It's clearly written with an agenda. They present no scientific evidence, cite no sources, and present no scientific data. It's laughably ironic, since they claim the OAK proponents have no evidence.

They do bring up some good points, however, about how OAK can be done incorrectly. Don't do it incorrectly. Be mindful of leeward venting of intakes in windy areas.
 
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Looks like he has a pretty impressive technical background on wood heat. This statement was pretty hard hitting:

Despite the fact that it is enshrined in some building codes and its adherents are often vocally forceful, there is no scientific evidence to suggest that outdoor air supplies, either direct to the combustion chamber or indirect supplies to the living space, are reliable and effective remedial measures for combustion spillage from the appliance for which the supply is intended.
 
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Perennial question and discussion. Here is a counterpoint:
(broken link removed to http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hooa3.htm)
(broken link removed to http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hooa.htm)
 
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