Wood stove ?

[earnies2]

I have a wood stove in my basement. My basement is nice and hot my living room isn't. I have insulation in the floor rafters in the basement and I also have the cellar door open.
My question is should I remove the lnsulination in the floor rafters?
Should I cut in a register in the living room floor? And maby one in the front hallway to send heat to the 2nd floor? Any advice is appreciated

 

[bholler]

I have a wood stove in my basement. My basement is nice and hot my living room isn't. I have insulation in the floor rafters in the basement and I also have the cellar door open.
My question is should I remove the lnsulination in the floor rafters?
Should I cut in a register in the living room floor? And maby one in the front hallway to send heat to the 2nd floor? Any advice is appreciated

Yes insulation between your heat source and the area to be heated is not a great idea

 

[earnies2]

Yes insulation between your heat source and the area to be heated is not a great idea

Thats what I was thinking. What about cutting in some registers in the floor so the heat can rise into the room?

 

[Prof]

I'd hold off on the cutting holes--usually against code and possibly unnecessary. I have a stove in my basement and plenty of heat makes it up stairs--I don't even keep the basement door open all that often. I'd definitely remove the insulation though. Are your basement walls insulated? If not, this can be a huge heat sink.

 

[earnies2]

I'd hold off on the cutting holes--usually against code and possibly unnecessary. I have a stove in my basement and plenty of heat makes it up stairs--I don't even keep the basement door open all that often. I'd definitely remove the insulation though. Are your basement walls insulated? If not, this can be a huge heat sink.

No basement walls are not insulated and they would be a huge job to do... lots of attached shelving and cabinets....

 

[GENECOP]

i saved this video, this guy seems to have maximized his system.

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[bholler]

No basement walls are not insulated and they would be a huge job to do... lots of attached shelving and cabinets....

There is something wrong with your setup or operation for sure. The creosote stains running down the wall should never be there. And you should never need to smear the joints with sealer.


With uninsulated walls you are wasting about 1/3 of your heat through the walls

 

[MMH]

i saved this video, this guy seems to have maximized his system.

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That’s actually a pretty good video nice find

 

[earnies2]

There is something wrong with your setup or operation for sure. The creosote stains running down the wall should never be there. And you should never need to smear the joints with sealer.


With uninsulated walls you are wasting about 1/3 of your heat through the walls

I'm not sure if the stains are from the previous owner the furnace cement was on the pipes and crumbling so I replaced it. I had the chimney checked and was told its clean and in good shape .
Should I pull the piping out and change it. There is a realy good draft.

 

[earnies2]

That’s actually a pretty good video nice find

That was a good video and nice stove.

 

[marty319]

I'm not sure if the stains are from the previous owner the furnace cement was on the pipes and crumbling so I replaced it. I had the chimney checked and was told its clean and in good shape .
Should I pull the piping out and change it. There is a realy good draft.

By the looks of that stove I would dump it as well.you need to insulate the basement walls.

 

[jetsam]

If you want to heat with wood and don't want to insulate the basement floor and walls, you pretty much need to move the stove upstairs.

Right now you have a poor stove which is also severely handicapped by cement heatsink soaking up most of its output.

Like bholler said, you also have some venting problems. If you end up in the unhappy situation of having creosote running down your flue, it's supposed to run back down into the stove.

(Also, an uncovered metal pail full of coals is a CO hazard indoors!)

I wouldn't invest a nickel in that setup. Pick an upstairs spot and put in a new stove. Maybe you can even find a spot that uses the old flue.

 

[bholler]

I disagree with those who say don't heat from the basement I really prefer it myself. But you need to insulate the walls if you want to be successful.

 

[Prof]

i saved this video, this guy seems to have maximized his system.

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Interesting video. When he talked about grates in the stove, I got curios and looked it up. As I suspected it is actually a coal stove. I once heated a old coal-company house with an ancient coal furnace. It put out a ton of heat, but it ate wood at a crazy rate. I supplemented with coal on cold days, but I could easily put 6 cords through it. Without coal there was no way to get an overnight burn. Generally speaking coal setups burn wood way too fast.

 

[bholler]

Interesting video. When he talked about grates in the stove, I got curios and looked it up. As I suspected it is actually a coal stove. I once heated a old coal-company house with an ancient coal furnace. It put out a ton of heat, but it ate wood at a crazy rate. I supplemented with coal on cold days, but I could easily put 6 cords through it. Without coal there was no way to get an overnight burn. Generally speaking coal setups burn wood way too fast.

It is just a redesigned coal stove. They are well built but poorly designed stoves. We work on many here

 

[earnies2]

By the looks of that stove I would dump it as well.you need to insulate the basement walls.

Whats wrong with the stove? I will seriously look into insulating the walls.

 

[earnies2]

If you want to heat with wood and don't want to insulate the basement floor and walls, you pretty much need to move the stove upstairs.

Right now you have a poor stove which is also severely handicapped by cement heatsink soaking up most of its output.

Like bholler said, you also have some venting problems. If you end up in the unhappy situation of having creosote running down your flue, it's supposed to run back down into the stove.

(Also, an uncovered metal pail full of coals is a CO hazard indoors!)

I wouldn't invest a nickel in that setup. Pick an upstairs spot and put in a new stove. Maybe you can even find a spot that uses the old flue.

I have gas hot air heat and want to supplement with the wood stove.
There is no room to move the stove upstairs small cape.
I belive the creosote is from the previous owner. I had the chimney checked and they said it was in great shape and clean. I probably should remove the pipe and change them. The chimney has a good draft as it is.
The ash and coals were cold when I removed them from the stove. I will get a metal ash can and put it outside the bulkhead thanks for your advice.

 

[earnies2]

I disagree with those who say don't heat from the basement I really prefer it myself. But you need to insulate the walls if you want to be successful.

I will seriously look at insulating the walls. What do you sujest i should use...

 

[bholler]

I will seriously look at insulating the walls. What do you sujest i should use...

That depends on many variables. Mainly the amount of moisture you have in the basement

 

[earnies2]

That depends on many variables. Mainly the ammout of moisture you have in the basement

The basement is fairly dry. In the 5 years I have been here we got water in the sump twice.

 

[kennyp2339]

Basement heater myself, (raised ranch style house, about 1600 sq ft of heating area) So about code and holes going into the upstairs floors, if you have another central heating / water heating device that uses either gas or oil you need to have some sort of isolation from them, usually a wall with a door to access serviceable equipment, in smaller homes, usually these appliances are located in the basement and the basement is sealed off from the rest of the house via door at top of the stairs; this is not requires for a fireplace, woodstove, pellet stove or any other type of solid fuel heater.
My setup is a cold air return that was boxed into the wall opposite from my stairs going into the basement since the stairs entrance is opposite from the best flow, I also cut a floor register in line with the empty ceiling chase above the wood stove, I installed a register boot (6" round) with a 6" round in-line duct fan that move approx 120cfm of air. Between the uninsulated floors, a path for the cold air to return to the basement and the ducted fan my upstairs living space stays between 68 on the coldest of cold (single digits) and will like yesterday raise up to 76deg when the outside temp is in the mid 30's. For warmer weather I just keep the stove on a low setting, dont use the stove blower or register blower.
The duct fan is a newer addition, my basement was getting way to warm for my liking (upper 80's) the fan pulls that heat and dumps it upstairs into the kitchen / dinning room area, it has helped a lot for my smaller space.

 

[marty319]

And your wood is way too close to that stove

 

[earnies2]

And your wood is way too close to that stove

I placed it there because that stack got wet. Its dry now and I moved it away

 

[earnies2]

Basement heater myself, (raised ranch style house, about 1600 sq ft of heating area) So about code and holes going into the upstairs floors, if you have another central heating / water heating device that uses either gas or oil you need to have some sort of isolation from them, usually a wall with a door to access serviceable equipment, in smaller homes, usually these appliances are located in the basement and the basement is sealed off from the rest of the house via door at top of the stairs; this is not requires for a fireplace, woodstove, pellet stove or any other type of solid fuel heater.
My setup is a cold air return that was boxed into the wall opposite from my stairs going into the basement since the stairs entrance is opposite from the best flow, I also cut a floor register in line with the empty ceiling chase above the wood stove, I installed a register boot (6" round) with a 6" round in-line duct fan that move approx 120cfm of air. Between the uninsulated floors, a path for the cold air to return to the basement and the ducted fan my upstairs living space stays between 68 on the coldest of cold (single digits) and will like yesterday raise up to 76deg when the outside temp is in the mid 30's. For warmer weather I just keep the stove on a low setting, dont use the stove blower or register blower.
The duct fan is a newer addition, my basement was getting way to warm for my liking (upper 80's) the fan pulls that heat and dumps it upstairs into the kitchen / dinning room area, it has helped a lot for my smaller space.

If I put in a cold air return and cut in a register when my hot air heat kicks in will they fight each other?
Thanks for your reply. I'm just a little frustrated that we have a wood stove and when its running the basement gets nice and warm or even hot but the living room thats rite onto of the wood stove is not getting any of that heat. That to me is not rite.....

 

[marty319]

That's good cause a stove like that will not have the greatest clearance to combustibles