Wood stove ?
- Thread starter earnies2
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
I agree with you Begreen, as long as the cat is good! I didn’t see where the stove is located in relation to his stairs, but maybe the doorway is not “enough” for the heat to pass over the cool air?! Maybe if he would install a opening in the header of the door, that might be enough to get it moving. Like in older homes that had that glass louver contraptions (sorry can’t think of the word right now)! Or even a register could be ok.
The cat is the round honey comb looking object towards the top back left corner. Once the cat gets to a certain temp it “lights off” you shut the damper “handle on the right side of the stove” and all the smoke passes through the cat and “eats up” all the smoke to give a clean emissions.
Here are some pictures and a picture of the inside of the stove
Attachments
Caw
Minister of Fire
What kind of sq footage are you trying trying heat? Remember you need to include both the basement and upstairs.
I'm reading the manual and that stove is only rated for 9,000 - 20,000 BTU brand new, which this one clearly isn't, and that isn't a lot of power in the first place. It seems to me the stove is just significantly underpowered for the job, especially considering you have other factors hurting you like the uninsulated basement heat sink, lack of air flow, and the fact that we don't even know if the cat is functional or even installed...or even what a cat is. You have to really dial in a cat stove for it to work right.
Sorry of it sounds like I'm poopoo-ing you, I'm not. Just trying to point out the issues I'm seeing while reading thru the thread. I think even brand spanking new and with the perfect setup that stove is likely inadequate for your needs.
For example, I run a brand new 65,000 BTU stove with an ideal setup to heat 1600 sq ft two story cape with good insulation. I'd say it's an appropriately sized stove for the climate here...and I live an hour away from you!
I'm reading the manual and that stove is only rated for 9,000 - 20,000 BTU brand new, which this one clearly isn't, and that isn't a lot of power in the first place. It seems to me the stove is just significantly underpowered for the job, especially considering you have other factors hurting you like the uninsulated basement heat sink, lack of air flow, and the fact that we don't even know if the cat is functional or even installed...or even what a cat is. You have to really dial in a cat stove for it to work right.
Sorry of it sounds like I'm poopoo-ing you, I'm not. Just trying to point out the issues I'm seeing while reading thru the thread. I think even brand spanking new and with the perfect setup that stove is likely inadequate for your needs.
For example, I run a brand new 65,000 BTU stove with an ideal setup to heat 1600 sq ft two story cape with good insulation. I'd say it's an appropriately sized stove for the climate here...and I live an hour away from you!
What are the chances the bolts will come out? They have probably been in there since new...
Caw
Minister of Fire
Sounds like a good place to start. Like I said, cat stoves need a little more care than a tube stove to run properly. The cat to be in good shape and you need to activate it at the right time etc. You can't just load it up and it works like a tube stove. Let's see what you find in there!
Thanks I just printed it and read it. My next step is to get to the cat? And change the stovepipe. Would it be possible to remove the cat and still use the stove as a conventional stove? Also the manual refers to a draft handle below the ash lip. I belive my stove has two knobs that are mounted to the door are thease the draft controls for my model?
You might be able to reuse the insulation you pull from the basement ceiling and use on the basement walls. Probably two ways you could go - just attach ridgid board or build 2 x walls and stuff them with fiberglass. I built a little 'phony' wall in the kitchen and it wasn't to hard.
Last edited:
You would have to use a “block off” plate for where the cat goes to use as a conventional stove! It would be a big hole up there and nothing to block smoke. If there is no rod underneath the ash lip than yes the knobs on the door are your air control. The nuts should come off fairly easy believe it or not.
Fiberglass in basement walls is a code violation at least around here. You want something that won't get moldy - either rigid foam or spray foam.
I will let you know when I get it apart....thanks for the help I appreciate it
I was reading the nuts are brass so they should come off and no problem if I need to replace them...
Update: I took the stove apart. The cat was filthy and closed i cleaned it out. The nuts came out rather easy I was surprised. All the bricks are in good shape. I replaced all the stove pipe and cleaned out the chimney chase which had verry little in it. The reason the creosote was running down the wall was because the 2 foot pipe that goes into the chimney was rotted on the bottom and the po burned pine im assuming. I haven't fired it up yet. I am also planing on removing the insulation in the floor rafters....I hope I didn't miss anything...I will take some pictures today.
Caw
Minister of Fire
Similar threads
