Can you explain the cat and what it does?Yes, as long as the cat is doing its job and still active it is not a bad old stove.
Can you explain the cat and what it does?Yes, as long as the cat is doing its job and still active it is not a bad old stove.
I will try thatWith the stove right next to the stairwell it's hard to understand why a lot of heat is not already heading upstairs.
Tape a piece of toilet paper at the top of the doorway to the basement. It should give a visual indication of airflow. Then hold it down low in the same doorway. It should show a strong return airflow down the stairs.
The cat is the round honey comb looking object towards the top back left corner. Once the cat gets to a certain temp it “lights off” you shut the damper “handle on the right side of the stove” and all the smoke passes through the cat and “eats up” all the smoke to give a clean emissions.Can you explain the cat and what it does?
Here are some pictures and a picture of the inside of the stoveIts not even with the cellar door opean you don't notice any heat coming up the stairs. I will take some pictures of the stove and cellar stairs for you
That stove is rated for much more than 20k btu I have the bigger brother which says it’s rated at 24-28k btu and I would say it’s more like 70k plus! I know the Manuel says that, I don’t know why!What kind of sq footage are you trying trying heat? Remember you need to include both the basement and upstairs.
I'm reading the manual and that stove is only rated for 9,000 - 20,000 BTU brand new, which this one clearly isn't, and that isn't a lot of power in the first place. It seems to me the stove is just significantly underpowered for the job, especially considering you have other factors hurting you like the uninsulated basement heat sink, lack of air flow, and the fact that we don't even know if the cat is functional or even installed...or even what a cat is. You have to really dial in a cat stove for it to work right.
Sorry of it sounds like I'm poopoo-ing you, I'm not. Just trying to point out the issues I'm seeing while reading thru the thread. I think even brand spanking new and with the perfect setup that stove is likely inadequate for your needs.
For example, I run a brand new 65,000 BTU stove with an ideal setup to heat 1600 sq ft two story cape with good insulation. I'd say it's an appropriately sized stove for the climate here...and I live an hour away from you!
I am using this stove to supplement my hot air heat on realy cold days.What kind of sq footage are you trying trying heat? Remember you need to include both the basement and upstairs.
I'm reading the manual and that stove is only rated for 9,000 - 20,000 BTU brand new, which this one clearly isn't, and that isn't a lot of power in the first place. It seems to me the stove is just significantly underpowered for the job, especially considering you have other factors hurting you like the uninsulated basement heat sink, lack of air flow, and the fact that we don't even know if the cat is functional or even installed...or even what a cat is. You have to really dial in a cat stove for it to work right.
Sorry of it sounds like I'm poopoo-ing you, I'm not. Just trying to point out the issues I'm seeing while reading thru the thread. I think even brand spanking new and with the perfect setup that stove is likely inadequate for your needs.
For example, I run a brand new 65,000 BTU stove with an ideal setup to heat 1600 sq ft two story cape with good insulation. I'd say it's an appropriately sized stove for the climate here...and I live an hour away from you!
What are the chances the bolts will come out? They have probably been in there since new...Yes above that big plate is where the cat is. Take those bolts out and drop the plate and pull the cat out.
Does anyone happen to have an operating manual?I am using this stove to supplement my hot air heat on realy cold days.
I just received the install manual. I don't have the operation manual. I also just found out it has a cat. I think it's time to take it apart and change the piping and check the cat.
I am using this stove to supplement my hot air heat on realy cold days.
I just received the install manual. I don't have the operation manual. I also just found out it has a cat. I think it's time to take it apart and change the piping and check the cat.
The manual has both. The operational part follows the installation part.I am using this stove to supplement my hot air heat on realy cold days.
I just received the install manual. I don't have the operation manual. I also just found out it has a cat. I think it's time to take it apart and change the piping and check the cat.
Thanks I just printed it and read it. My next step is to get to the cat? And change the stovepipe. Would it be possible to remove the cat and still use the stove as a conventional stove? Also the manual refers to a draft handle below the ash lip. I belive my stove has two knobs that are mounted to the door are thease the draft controls for my model?The manual has both. The operational part follows the installation part.
I think I would use ridged insulationYou might be able to reuse the insulation you pull from the basement ceiling and use on the basement walls. Probably two ways you could go - just attach rigid board or build 2 x walls and stuff them with fiberglass. I built a little 'phony' wall in the kitchen and it wasn't to hard.
You would have to use a “block off” plate for where the cat goes to use as a conventional stove! It would be a big hole up there and nothing to block smoke. If there is no rod underneath the ash lip than yes the knobs on the door are your air control. The nuts should come off fairly easy believe it or not.Thanks I just printed it and read it. My next step is to get to the cat? And change the stovepipe. Would it be possible to remove the cat and still use the stove as a conventional stove? Also the manual refers to a draft handle below the ash lip. I belive my stove has two knobs that are mounted to the door are thease the draft controls for my model?
You might be able to reuse the insulation you pull from the basement ceiling and use on the basement walls. Probably two ways you could go - just attach ridgid board or build 2 x walls and stuff them with fiberglass. I built a little 'phony' wall in the kitchen and it wasn't to hard.
Fiberglass in basement walls is a code violation at least around here. You want something that won't get moldy - either rigid foam or spray foam.I think I would use ridged insulation
I will let you know when I get it apart....thanks for the help I appreciate itYou would have to use a “block off” plate for where the cat goes to use as a conventional stove! It would be a big hole up there and nothing to block smoke. If there is no rod underneath the ash lip than yes the knobs on the door are your air control. The nuts should come off fairly easy believe it or not.
You would have to use a “block off” plate for where the cat goes to use as a conventional stove! It would be a big hole up there and nothing to block smoke. If there is no rod underneath the ash lip than yes the knobs on the door are your air control. The nuts should come off fairly easy believe it or not.
Isn't hardwood better and hotter?Nothing wrong with burning pine by the way, just make sure it is dry.
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