Wood insert (and problems) came with the house

[stamello]

I'm thinking the englander 30 (non-cat), so maybe this would work

Does anyone know if this method of cleanout would work with the englander 30? The chimney guy wants to put a Tee in the chimney run for the cleanout, then smash a hole in the existing chase so that the chimney can be cleaned from the outside. But if I can just run class A all the way down down into the stove and clean it inside the stove, then I wouldn't need this, right? When I mentioned this idea, he was concerned about chimney support, but it looks like we could still use the "duravent stainless Tee support" to support the chimney - but without installing the Tee. Is this correct?
If this is just as simple as running the class a pipe through the chase and supporting with the Tee support and stabilizing with the wall straps, then I'm thinking of doing it myself - since I know the chimney better than anyone now. Is this a bad idea?

 

[begreen]

I'm not keen on that idea. Chimney pipe is not designed to connect to a stove.

 

[stamello]

I'm not keen on that idea. Chimney pipe is not designed to connect to a stove.

So could we do the above, and then the last foot or so run an adapter to stovepipe?

 

[begreen]

For servicing and ease of installation I'd prefer to have the connector pipe telescoping. Not sure if they make it in less than 12-18". I still haven't visualized how this will work out though, especially the chimney support. Where would the bracket be mounted? It would help if you could post some pictures and a sketch if necessary.

 

[velvetfoot]

DVL is the stovepipe for Duravent, no. I believe that's what I have. It's made for it..

 

[stamello]

For servicing and ease of installation I'd prefer to have the connector pipe telescoping. Not sure if they make it in less than 12-18". I still haven't visualized how this will work out though, especially the chimney support. Where would the bracket be mounted? It would help if you could post some pictures and a sketch if necessary.

Here's a few pics that may help illustrate:

1. After stripping everything combustible off, below is my hearth. It's the original house chimney, and is brick with proper clearances for the first 10 feet. Above that is the second story add on chimney that has combustibles in it.
There aren't combustibles below the hearth - someone stacked concrete block and poured concrete down there prior to the previous install.

2. Below is my chimney from the outside. It's got stone over everything, so you can't see that it's actually the brick chimney with a 1980s cinder block chimney stacked on top. You can also see that it's about 5 feet too short.

3. Below is the type of hearth install I'd like: an englander 30 inside of my current hearth opening with the pipe coming straight down into the top of it.

4. Below is a quick sketch of a potential install. Don't read into the wavy lines - they're more representative of my drawing skills than the actual chimney . This is looking at it from the side. The dark shaded part is the existing brick portion of the chimney that has proper clearance to combustibles. The non-shaded part is the existing "chimney" that does not have clearance, and thus (according to previous comments) is essentially a chimney chase. Could a potential install be:
- class A duravent the whole way with an extension on top
- The "Tee support" supporting the chimney would be connected to the inside of of the chimney to the existing brick (which is in good shape). I can access this area prior to stove install via the hearth.
- No cleanout: cleanout would need to be in the stove
- wall straps at 8 and sixteen feet to studs. I can access this area via a hole in the upstairs wall that is already there from demolition for proper clearance.

5. Below is a picture looking up my chimney from the bottom. Not much can be seen, but you can see that it is brick

6. Here's what the upper portion of my chimney looks like now that we've removed all of the clay tile that was resting against the particle board, and smashed out some of the brick in order to gain proper clearance from the upstairs wall:

 

[begreen]

Sketch didn't come through. Hopefully your fireplace cavity is much larger for more room to hook up than in BrotherBart's installation. My concern is that you are not going to find a plumb aligned wall to mount the pipe support onto. Often at the top of the fireplace things are sloped.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

that looks like that "BB Brown" 30 up in northern Va

 

[stamello]

Sketch didn't come through. Hopefully your fireplace cavity is much larger for more room to hook up than in BrotherBart's installation. My concern is that you are not going to find a plumb aligned wall to mount the pipe support onto. Often at the top of the fireplace things are sloped.

My fireplace cavity is not much larger. Besides install, is there a downside to that?
I could also mount the pipe support to the studs in the top of the "chimney" which are perfectly plumb. That would mean that about 10 feet of the pipe would be hanging below the pipe support (but with a wall strap to the brick. Would this be OK?

 

[bholler]

Why not just run an insulted liner in the section that is all masonry and class a above that it would be allot cheaper and easier in my opinion. Try posting the pics again though i am having trouble following your description with out them

 

[stamello]

Why not just run an insulted liner in the section that is all masonry and class a above that it would be allot cheaper and easier in my opinion. Try posting the pics again though i am having trouble following your description with out them

I'll try to upload via a different method on my office computer tomorrow.
Regarding the class A plus liner suggestion: I assumed that because the chimney was compromised in the upper portion that I couldn't put a liner in the lower portion because the heat could travel up. But I guess I could put a block off plate in or something? Is this standard?

 

[bholler]

Regarding the class A plus liner suggestion: I assumed that because the chimney was compromised in the upper portion that I couldn't put a liner in the lower portion because the heat could travel up. But I guess I could put a block off plate in or something? Is this standard?

with out seeing the chimney i cant say for sure it sounds very odd for sure

 

[stamello]

with out seeing the chimney i cant say for sure it sounds very odd for sure

I updated my post above - hopefully the images can be seen now.

 

[begreen]

I updated my post above - hopefully the images can be seen now.

Yep. I see them now. I'd brace the chimney class A at the top and at the bottom and no tee support.

 

[stamello]

Yep. I see them now. I'd brace the chimney class A at the top and at the bottom and no tee support.

When you say "brace", do you mean with a wall strap (http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimn...ts/6-inch-DuraPlus-Stainless-Steel-Wall-Strap )? Or some other method?

 

[begreen]

Yes. Though you could use the tee bracket if you can install it so that it is perpendicular to the chimney pipe. That might take shimming. Put a level on the inside where you think it might go and see whether that area is truly vertical.

 

[stamello]

Yes. Though you could use the tee bracket if you can install it so that it is perpendicular to the chimney pipe. That might take shimming. Put a level on the inside where you think it might go and see whether that area is truly vertical.

The wall braces sound fine to me and much easier and cheaper. I just didn't know that they could be used as vertical support. Thanks!

 

[begreen]

It is not their purpose. The tee bracket would definitely be more secure and a better support. If used maybe drill clearance holes and screw a couple #10 anchor screws per brace strap? Better yet call DuraVent tech support and ask what they think.

 

[bholler]

I disagree with begreen i would hang it from the top with a roof support bracket and the use a wall support at the bottom to stabilize it. Wall supports are not meant to do anything but stabilize the chimney

 

[begreen]

I like that idea.

 

[stamello]

I disagree with begreen i would hang it from the top with a roof support bracket and the use a wall support at the bottom to stabilize it. Wall supports are not meant to do anything but stabilize the chimney

So if I did this, essentially I'd be doing the install in the top left corner of the image below, but with all 6" duratech until the last foot. But my roof bracket would be connected to the masonry at the top of the chimney instead of to wooden joists. Does this look OK?
(broken image removed)

 

[bholler]

Yeah that was my thought

 

[begreen]

I think this is bracket bholler is thinking about. Though I am wondering about how to cap and flash the chimney top with it in place and I am not sure the flanges would span the flue opening.

 

[bholler]

Though I am wondering about how to cap and flash the chimney top with it in place and I am not sure the flanges would span the flue opening.

The roof flashing will sit right over it that bracket is made to work with their flashing and the cap would be like any other class a cap. And yeah you might need to add some steel to span the opening but that is no big deal

 

[begreen]

Not sure if this is going to get a roof cap. This is a chimney.