I would just get a flat roof flashing kit and be done with it why do anything else? If they wanted to do a lower profile flashing just flip the bracket over so it extends down into the chimney then you have a flat top
Wood insert (and problems) came with the house
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So with that plan it looks like this would be my supply list. Am I missing anything major?
![[Hearth.com] Wood insert (and problems) came with the house](/talk/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft487%2Fstavenj%2F1E31CE8B-E0C9-438D-ADFA-3D5553C99F0C_zpslwti0lpj.jpg&hash=cd0d0cc20735c8f4e61ee911656f4ccd "[Hearth.com] Wood insert (and problems) came with the house")
Looks about right but you wont need that roof bracket just the roof support and i don't see a wall bracket to stabilize the bottom
That looks like a double-wall stove adapter and pipe. For this short run I would use single-wall DuraBlack pipe and a 14" telescoping piece + stove adapter if needed.
You might also want to compare piping prices. Here's a site to try:
http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/Chimney-Pipe-Venting-Pipe/Wood-All-Fuel-Piping/6-inch-c154/
You might also want to compare piping prices. Here's a site to try:
http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/Chimney-Pipe-Venting-Pipe/Wood-All-Fuel-Piping/6-inch-c154/
I agree with begreen on that point there are no clearance issues and not a long run so no need for double wall
Thanks - it looks like they also have better prices and a broader selection. I found a less expensive bracket ( (broken link removed to http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/M-G-DuraVent-6-and-8-DuraTech-Adjustable-Re-Support-Bracket-6DT-RES-p33630.html) ) that is rated to hold 20 feet of pipe, and was described in the duratech literature as being used for chimneys without a Tee. I think I'd be more comfortable with this bracket anchored to studs instead of the roof support on masonry - that way I'm not dependent on the integrity of the top of my "chimney". Less expensive too. So I think that this would be my shopping list. Does this plan sound OK? It looks a lot better to me than the ~3.5-4k bids I'm getting...
![[Hearth.com] Wood insert (and problems) came with the house](/talk/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi1062.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ft487%2Fstavenj%2F1DD2E1E9-9F25-4760-AE49-4E7B284658F3_zpsirb2nklj.jpg&hash=2c0f1293cf2c8de3af45f26dde9cde3b "[Hearth.com] Wood insert (and problems) came with the house")
That should work if you have somewhere good to mount it. That material price is allot lower but it isnt in yet that will not be an easy install at all. If i where doing it i am sure my price would be in line with what you were quoted
Sure - I don't mean to begrudge them their labor - it will be hard work. But if I'm looking at it correctly, the install will be difficult because of man-hours it will take to fit everything correctly in the tight space; with the straight run and two points of contact it doesn't seem particularly hard from a technical standpoint. I just don't want to pay someone for something that three reasonably competent friends and I could do ourselves.
And i am not saying you shouldn't do it or cant do it but it will be a pain in the ass for sure lol
With the telescoping pipe plus stove adapter, this gives me ~16-24 inches of durablack above the stove and out of the damper/hearth area (before I connect to the duratech). There are no combustibles anywhere near this, so clearance is not a problem.
Can I install a sheet metal/roxul damper seal lower than the durablack/duratech connection point? The hearth opening ends at 10 inches above the stove, so ideally I'd put a damper seal just above there, right? But the durablack continues on for 6-14 inches above that point. Is it OK to have durablack above the damper seal and surrounded by roxul? It feels wrong to "bury" it...
If it's not OK, I could raise the damper seal to the durablack/duratech connection point, but it seems like this would trap heat in the chimney area above the stove instead of move it into the room. Or I could try to cut down the telescoping pipe, but it seems like this piece is tapered, and cutting off part of the slip end would weaken my seal.
OK, the stove manual install pic showed it with the block off plate on the stovepipe below the transition. But that seemed weird to me. Too bad - I think I could save a lot of heat if I could block it lower...
(broken image removed)
I am assuming that in that diagram that is rigid liner because it is against code to run stove pipe up into the chimney like that
OK, I installed it today with some friends. Good draft, no leaks, nice fire. However, the outside of the duratech (the double wall class A) seems too hot. I have 3 inches of clearance to combustibles, so I'm not too worried - it's just hotter than I expected. I had initially put a piece of roxul insullation between the chimney pipe and the combustible - touching both the duratech and the plywood. But now I'm wondering whether that was preventing the pipe from cooling, so I pulled it all out except for above the damper seal. Do you think that this was my problem?
an hour after pulling the roxul away the duratech is cooler, but still hot. Before I couldn't hold my finger on it for more than a second, now I can put my hand on for 5 seconds before pulling away. Is this something to worry about? Maybe there's still too much Roxul above my damper seal to let the pipe above it cool? Or is it OK for the duratech to run hot if I maintain the clearance to combustibles?
Our chimney pipe can be very warm to the touch when flue temps are hot and the stove has been going for awhile, liked after a reload ignites. I haven't measured the temp but you would only put your hand on it for a second or two. Keep insulation away from the pipe except at the damper seal and it should be ok as long as the proper clearance is maintained from any and all combustibles.
Ok, thanks. It scared me yesterday, but then today I started wondering whether it was better if the insulation made chimney pipe burn hot - since it might burn cleaner...
No, that is not worth experimenting with. I think it would also void the pipe warranty. For a clean chimney, burn fully seasoned wood and don't let the fire smolder. Run the stove correctly on dry wood and you may not get more than a cup full of powder from cleaning after a season of burning.
If you're going to do it right, you may want to consider the largest insert or freestanding stove that will fit in there, new liner is a must, and make sure the liner size is matched to the stove outlet size.
The insert you have is going to put some heat out, but a larger one will do a much better job for your size space.
These are not like the old days, where you threw in wood and let it burn like hell. The research and effort taken to burn these stoves properly is not very overwhelming, and in time, you will know exactly how to burn in whichever stove you choose.
The positive side, you have plenty of room to run a new liner up that old chimney. If it were me, I would definitely make sure the liner is insulated and a block off plate is installed in the old damper area of the old fireplace.
Some new stone veneer on the face would look great!
If you go with that insert or any other, get the blower for it. Between the block off plate & the blower you will notice the difference right away. A good bit of heated air is going up that old chimney cavity as is, and that is heat that could be going into the house.
The insert you have is going to put some heat out, but a larger one will do a much better job for your size space.
These are not like the old days, where you threw in wood and let it burn like hell. The research and effort taken to burn these stoves properly is not very overwhelming, and in time, you will know exactly how to burn in whichever stove you choose.
The positive side, you have plenty of room to run a new liner up that old chimney. If it were me, I would definitely make sure the liner is insulated and a block off plate is installed in the old damper area of the old fireplace.
Some new stone veneer on the face would look great!
If you go with that insert or any other, get the blower for it. Between the block off plate & the blower you will notice the difference right away. A good bit of heated air is going up that old chimney cavity as is, and that is heat that could be going into the house.
Can you put a flue thermometer in the stretch behind the stove before it transitions to the class A? Maybe you are letting the air open a bit too much which means you lose quite a bit of heat up the chimney? On the other hand, I have seen people here reporting temps of 200 F for the outside of double wall. That would be hot enough for me to not touch it.
Yesterday I let the stove burn with air wide open. The pipe was warm, but not nearly as hot as on saturday. So I think that the insulation was my problem. The temps are in the 60s here for the next few days so I'll let the stove rest, but next weekend when it's cold again I'll test the pipe temp on startup.
On another note - I don't have a lot of play with my stove damper. When I close it all the way it seals and the fire shuts down. But there doesn't seem to be a lot of difference between 5% open and 100% open - I'm getting a pretty roaring fire either way. Could it be that my draft is so strong that it's sucking a ton of air through that crack? Any remedies to this, or should I just be happy that I've got good draft?
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