Wood burning insert in NC, is it worth it?

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You both must have plenty of make up air to not have any influence. Good job.
Not really, I mean, the house isn't 100% airtight, but not a drafty shed, either.
My point was that the air going into the return at floor level isn't that warm in the first place, and would lose most of it's heat going through the ducting in the attic.

I don't have an OAK (stove is not on an outside wall and the foundation is concrete), but I certainly notice pressure changes in the house, especially on low-draft days. Such as when the bathroom vent is running. To run the kitchen vent, which is industrial-sized, I certainly have to open a window not to get backdraft into the stove.
 
My view is that if one uses an HVAC ducted fan system, the ducts should be in the insulated envelope as mentioned above, AND it works best if there is no return in the stove room, just a register *blowing* air. The return(s) should be as far away as possible from the stove room. That air pushed into the stove room through the register will push warm air out of the stove room.

That way, if there are pressure differences, at least the stove room would have a higher pressure, and the warmest air does not go through ducts (where it can cool down), but through the living space where it is beneficial.
 
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AND it works best if there is no return in the stove room, just a register *blowing* air. The return(s) should be as far away as possible from the stove room.
Ideally, agreed. My layout is that the return is in a hallway connecting the stove room and the bedroom. So no good way to get warm air into the bedroom, sadly.
 
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Assuming no air loss in the HVAC
As a rule of thumb, I've heard that a loss of 20% through the ducts (seams and such) is considered normal. Which then obviously has to be made up from cracks around the house. Plus the amount the stove uses.