What Is In Your Stove Right Now?

[thewoodlands]

We had a low of 0.4 this morning, the basement temp started out at 73 with the temps up here 64 & 65. We ran the furnace this morning while I was burning down coals.

The first load today was four splits of beech with three splits of maple.

 

[all night moe]

Low of 5* with a real of -11. GF did the breakfast serving duty this morning. Then a small follow up load not long after. She let me sleep in
I just added 5 splits of mixed hardwoods and "tricked'' the furnace. I disrupt power to the blower and watch the fan limit switch. I let the temps climb. When my desired point is reached I flip the switch back on. This sends a steady stream of hot breath down the ducts, chasing the cold air out and sending heat in the rooms. Runs for about 5-10mins this way with air intake open. Gives the 1st floor a nice warm up.

 

[Dieselhead]

Single digits this morning with wind chills right below 0. Wife kept the stove going for a while yesterday I was surprised! No overnight load though. Came home and sifted some ash out and was surprised I still had good coals to get a fire going with no help. Loaded up with ash, oak and cherry this morning.

Do you clean your glass daily or is the air wash that good on the drolet that it keeps it looking new?

Low of 5* with a real of -11. GF did the breakfast serving duty this morning. Then a small follow up load not long after. She let me sleep in
I just added 5 splits of mixed hardwoods and "tricked'' the furnace. I disrupt power to the blower and watch the fan limit switch. I let the temps climb. When my desired point is reached I flip the switch back on. This sends a steady stream of hot breath down the ducts, chasing the cold air out and sending heat in the rooms. Runs for about 5-10mins this way with air intake open. Gives the 1st floor a nice warm up.

Hopefully no crane jobs today? 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

[MRD1985]

Do you clean your glass daily or is the air wash that good on the drolet that it keeps it looking new?



Hopefully no crane jobs today? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Definitely not daily. About every 3-4 days just a quick wipe, the glass only gets a very slightly haze to it. Never any actual build up.

 

[all night moe]

-24f this morning. A bit chilly. When it’s this cold the boiler will chew through the better part of an IBC tote of mixed wood. It’s heating close to 10k square feet so I’m quite okay with it. Threw in a full load of ash and around 200lbs of coal at 9pm and it was ready to load again at 6am

Wow that's not bad at all. Good thing for the coal
That wood have been an ungodly amount of wood without it.
I've read a lot of hate for Crown Royals over the years. Some love them. Yours is doing superb.

 

[all night moe]

Wife kept the stove going for a while yesterday I was surprised!

Glad to hear she's warming up. Good for you brother!

 

[all night moe]

Hopefully no crane jobs today? 🤷🏻‍♂️

I'm craning my coffee to my mouth one handed. Does that count? LOL
Seriously, no work since that last job I posted about in the work done thread. We, and many other services don't bother trying in this weather. Raises hell with the hydraulics.....and us LOL. Not to mention, chipping frozen wood is hell on the drum and knives.

 

[MRD1985]

Glad to hear she's warming up. Good for you brother!

Thank you my friend! I think she’s slowly appreciating the warmth (though I do still get an occasional complaint it’s too hot some times but not nearly as often as I used to. I can tell too now because when the stove isn’t on thermostats are set to 68-69 vs the 64-66 they used to be). And the cost savings. I used 72% less natural last month than the year prior. And I think she’s seeing that when the bills come out of the account, though she’s never mentioned it. She still wants all the bedrooms closed when I go to bed after loading the stove at night, so the boiler will still run to keep 1 zone warm. But it runs significantly less. Maybe one day when the kids are older she’ll agree to open bedroom doors at night. I’ll take what I can get though!

 

[stoveliker]

speaking of coal, 13 this morning. The home is 68.
Last night's tetris load of oak and locust is now burning like coal, 12 hrs in:

 

[all night moe]

speaking of coal, 13 this morning. The home is 68.
Last night's tetris load of oak and locust is now burning like coal, 12 hrs in:View attachment 335554

Ahh yea This is what makes me want a BK. As stated in my 4 stove thread, I think not though. A PE will fit my want and application better.

Love that performance you just displayed.

 

[jblnut]

Wow that's not bad at all. Good thing for the coal!!

That would have been an ungodly amount of wood without it.

I've read a lot of hate for Crown Royals over the years. Some love them. Yours is doing superb.

I have a few neighbors with other brands of stoves, a couple other multipass stoves but mostly Central Boilers from current to 25yrs old. I’ve loaded some other stoves for guys when they’re on vacation and this Crown stove definitely behaves differently than the other stoves I’ve seen/used. It seems like the hotter it is the happier it is. I scrape the multipass area daily and make sure to manage my ash and coals so they stay over the grates. Loading E/W seems to get the best bang for buck when you need to fill it full otherwise loose tossing seems to be more wood thrifty.

I’ve thought about going straight coal but I have so dang much wood to chew through that it’d be silly to do so. I bet I have close to 100 cord sitting in logs on the property to chew through. The coal is great to extend burn times at night. It’ll heat up 450gal of water from 170-180f in around 12 minutes with the coal in it. It takes roughly 15 minutes without it.

 

[Wildflush]

I'm craning my coffee to my mouth one handed. Does that count? LOL
Seriously, no work since that last job I posted about in the work done thread. We, and many other services don't bother trying in this weather. Raises hell with the hydraulics.....and us LOL. Not to mention, chipping frozen wood is hell on the drum and knives.

What State are to you in?

 

[all night moe]

What State are to you in?

Your east neighbor. NY.

 

[stoveliker]

Some oak knots onna split of pine on the remaining coals. Not enough for the rest of this 20 F max day, but I have more

 

[NickW]

3 chunks of shoulder season wood just went in with the coals shoved to the sides.

Another long ramble...

I am doing some experiments with partially blocking the secondary air inlet (being discussed in another current thread...again). Went back and read some old threads on the same stove (NC30). Anyone have any theories on the difference in heat transfer to the stove versus going up the flue by not using the damper much/at all or effective burn times? I've noticed that the same continuous flue temperature has a higher stt on a full hardwood load damped down versus a partial load damper more open.

I think I mostly understand the physics of it. Partially blocking the secondary intake changes the percentages of where the air comes from which then will change the necessary damper setting. Is the assumption that the more closed the damper is the more heat is transferred to the stove instead of going up the flue? Or does the draft speed just change to accommodate the volume?

I would love to not have to spend 1 1/2-2 hours babysitting the overnight load until I can open the damper up to my overnight settings, however getting the longest burn time possible while staying clean trumps it. Being able to start a load at 9 and get to bed by 10 would be great! Right now if I start a load at 9 it's probably 11 or later before I get to bed. If I start earlier the load doesn't last long enough. I have gotten to the point where on the overnight load I stop adjusting the air at the overnight setting and control the stove with just the damper until it calms down.

In a nutshell...my thought is to control secondary air to get to my overnight settings sooner, still have good burn times and heat transfer, and burn clean. Maybe I am worrying to much about not using the damper... I ran for a couple of years without one at all. Maybe I can get to the point where I can get right to the overnight setting and not have to go further closed?

Argh! Brain overload!

 

[burning VC]

in the nw NC foothills.....
Grampa Bear had midnight snack of a STUFFIING
of White Oak, Red Oak, White Pine, Maple and piles of red hot coals..

9F when i checked this AM outside....felt a little 'less warm' as i made the morning brew in the kitchen...

Stove was burned down, 224F STT.

It had not hit me just how cold it was reloading with yellow pine and white oak to bring up STT, then Red Oak i just loaded a moment ago at 15F.

Took the IR gun to kitchen....50.2F......ok...wait. huh ? NO!

Just went to adjust draft and noticed a paw written sign,
"Please, Feed the Bears"....

and everything was frozen, in the woods but not the nearby river...

 

[Todd]

3 chunks of shoulder season wood just went in with the coals shoved to the sides.

Another long ramble...

I am doing some experiments with partially blocking the secondary air inlet (being discussed in another current thread...again). Went back and read some old threads on the same stove (NC30). Anyone have any theories on the difference in heat transfer to the stove versus going up the flue by not using the damper much/at all or effective burn times? I've noticed that the same continuous flue temperature has a higher stt on a full hardwood load damped down versus a partial load damper more open.

I think I mostly understand the physics of it. Partially blocking the secondary intake changes the percentages of where the air comes from which then will change the necessary damper setting. Is the assumption that the more closed the damper is the more heat is transferred to the stove instead of going up the flue? Or does the draft speed just change to accommodate the volume?

I would love to not have to spend 1 1/2-2 hours babysitting the overnight load until I can open the damper up to my overnight settings, however getting the longest burn time possible while staying clean trumps it. Being able to start a load at 9 and get to bed by 10 would be great! Right now if I start a load at 9 it's probably 11 or later before I get to bed. If I start earlier the load doesn't last long enough. I have gotten to the point where on the overnight load I stop adjusting the air at the overnight setting and control the stove with just the damper until it calms down.

In a nutshell...my thought is to control secondary air to get to my overnight settings sooner, still have good burn times and heat transfer, and burn clean. Maybe I am worrying to much about not using the damper... I ran for a couple of years without one at all. Maybe I can get to the point where I can get right to the overnight setting and not have to go further closed?

Argh! Brain overload!

Are you monitoring flue temps? I can tell you for sure when I cut off my secondary air the flue temps did drop and I settled at about 25-30% closing off the secondary. I don’t have a pipe damper and have thought about getting one especially for these cold snaps but I need to burn hotter anyways so I haven’t gotten one. On a normal winters day my flue temps run 400-600 internal temps with the air fully shut on a full load.

 

[MRD1985]

250-275 STT wasn’t cutting it on a day like today, even though it says it’s 69-70 in main rooms. 65 in the bedrooms. Loaded up lots of oak.

Nice crusing load this time. Around 650-675 STT.

 

[NickW]

Are you monitoring flue temps? I can tell you for sure when I cut off my secondary air the flue temps did drop and I settled at about 25-30% closing off the secondary. I don’t have a pipe damper and have thought about getting one especially for these cold snaps but I need to burn hotter anyways so I haven’t gotten one. On a normal winters day my flue temps run 400-600 internal temps with the air fully shut on a full load.

Yes. My typical cruising temperature is around 715 flue and a little over 550 stt, air 1/4 open, damper 1/4 open. Any more shut down than this and I will have mostly charcoal and dirty glass in the morning instead of clean glass and coals. For the first 1 1/2-2 hours (sometimes longer) I keep the air at 1/4 open but the damper only about 10% open to keep it under control. With the cold lately I've been running hotter which the stove really seems to like, but it's shortening effective burn time.

I'm going to experiment a bit with partially blocking the secondary air with the goals of not having to shut down farther than my overnight settings (at least not for long), still burning clean, and keeping decent effective burn time.

The small shoulder season load I did earlier seemed to go good. Will try a bigger shoulder season load shortly. Considering getting a manometer...

 

[Wildflush]

Your east neighbor. NY.

Got it for some reason thought Midwest. 👍

 

[Wildflush]

House 72. Reloading oak and maple and closer to 350-400 STT on reloads. Targeting 600-650 STT. Glad I got that ice melt down after doing the driveway and steps yesterday.

One of my clients in MN said they are all home today. Shut schools down with the extreme temps 😳

 

[Todd]

Yes. My typical cruising temperature is around 715 flue and a little over 550 stt, air 1/4 open, damper 1/4 open. Any more shut down than this and I will have mostly charcoal and dirty glass in the morning instead of clean glass and coals. For the first 1 1/2-2 hours (sometimes longer) I keep the air at 1/4 open but the damper only about 10% open to keep it under control. With the cold lately I've been running hotter which the stove really seems to like, but it's shortening effective burn time.

I'm going to experiment a bit with partially blocking the secondary air with the goals of not having to shut down farther than my overnight settings (at least not for long), still burning clean, and keeping decent effective burn time.

The small shoulder season load I did earlier seemed to go good. Will try a bigger shoulder season load shortly. Considering getting a manometer...

I think those temps should be reversed. Higher stove temp than flue temps are more efficient. Maybe start a new thread on this subject, sounds like you may be chasing your tail.

 

[Gearhead660]

3 chunks of shoulder season wood just went in with the coals shoved to the sides.

Another long ramble...

I am doing some experiments with partially blocking the secondary air inlet (being discussed in another current thread...again). Went back and read some old threads on the same stove (NC30). Anyone have any theories on the difference in heat transfer to the stove versus going up the flue by not using the damper much/at all or effective burn times? I've noticed that the same continuous flue temperature has a higher stt on a full hardwood load damped down versus a partial load damper more open.

I think I mostly understand the physics of it. Partially blocking the secondary intake changes the percentages of where the air comes from which then will change the necessary damper setting. Is the assumption that the more closed the damper is the more heat is transferred to the stove instead of going up the flue? Or does the draft speed just change to accommodate the volume?

I would love to not have to spend 1 1/2-2 hours babysitting the overnight load until I can open the damper up to my overnight settings, however getting the longest burn time possible while staying clean trumps it. Being able to start a load at 9 and get to bed by 10 would be great! Right now if I start a load at 9 it's probably 11 or later before I get to bed. If I start earlier the load doesn't last long enough. I have gotten to the point where on the overnight load I stop adjusting the air at the overnight setting and control the stove with just the damper until it calms down.

In a nutshell...my thought is to control secondary air to get to my overnight settings sooner, still have good burn times and heat transfer, and burn clean. Maybe I am worrying to much about not using the damper... I ran for a couple of years without one at all. Maybe I can get to the point where I can get right to the overnight setting and not have to go further closed?

Argh! Brain overload!

I believe slowing the draft does allow more heat to transfer to the stove/room. Before adding a damper, I was never able to get the stove temp close to my flue temp. Now, I can easily get the stove temp at or above the flue temp.

 

[thewoodlands]

I've been burning down coals since the morning load coaled up, the basement stayed 75 with the temps up here 69 & 70. I took the ashes out, they went in the empty garbage can with the top on it.

The second load is all maple, some not the greatest so hopefully burning down the coals will/should be quicker.

 

[NickW]

I think those temps should be reversed. Higher stove temp than flue temps are more efficient. Maybe start a new thread on this subject, sounds like you may be chasing your tail.

I believe slowing the draft does allow more heat to transfer to the stove/room. Before adding a damper, I was never able to get the stove temp close to my flue temp. Now, I can easily get the stove temp at or above the flue temp.

I wish! After adding the damper it got better, but still is usually 150 degrees different flue over stt (with the blower running on high). Flue at 10% open air 1/4 open with a full hardwood load I'm over 800 flue and 620-650 stt.

There's several people here that are regular posters who have the NC30. Any of you guys able to run stt equal to or higher than flue?

In the name of science I am going to see if I can get this to happen with the damper closed as far as I can, the air open, and keep it running (with the magnet off the secondary air that I just put on...) It's still -5 out and I'm not going outside, so I might as well do some playing with it.

I should remind everyone about my flue situation too. 24' total flue height, 4' horizontal run 42" above the stove. It seems like I fight weak draft until it's HOT, then it gets really strong when it's hot, then lose it badly as it cools. I did a bunch of experimenting when I first installed the damper and I think it was @Gearhead660 who at one point suggested to try shutting the damper before the air control, which was better than shutting air down first.