Vermont Castings Resolute III Issues

[ntomsw]

If I shorten the chain, won't the chain not be able to close when it needs to? Because the door opens all the way up right now.

I think my issues are a combination of wet wood, and a dirty stove. Both of which I hope to remedy in the next few weeks.

 

[begreen]

If I shorten the chain, won't the chain not be able to close when it needs to? Because the door opens all the way up right now.

No need to touch it then.

 

[fbelec]

but if it is closed at 300 degrees stove top temp then it needs to open more.

 

[ntomsw]

but if it is closed at 300 degrees stove top temp then it needs to open more.

How do you open it more? If you open it too high, or shorten the chain too high, then it won't close when it needs to. At least that's what would make sense.

The stove has other issues. The door closing at 300 has nothing to do with the door persay. It's a dirty stove and unseasoned wood issue. At least that's my guess. Once those issues are solved, I'll see how the stove works then.

I still might just go brand new. That way I know the stove is new, and I know where I am starting. Now, I am using a stove that 2 previous owners have used, and most likely didn't even properly take care of it.

So, I am still on the fence about what I will be doing. Right now, I am leaning towards buying brand new. And, actually using seasoned wood. Wood that I cut down so I won't ever be screwed again.

 

[begreen]

Correct. Leave the chain alone if it already opens the air all the way.

Get some store bought kiln dried wood and try the stove with that before cleaning. I think you will have a much better experience. It can be pretty dirty inside before it gets balky. Just be sure to engage the bypass once it has heated up.

 

[Viggyowner]

I think that you need to do what Fbelec suggested. You said in your initial post that you might just get the stove to 400-500 degrees.That is really quite cool. You also say that the thermostat closes fully at that or a lower temperature; well it shouldn't. It isn't really practical to do experiments with the stove running as it is likely to burn you seriously if you mess about round the back where the thermostat is. Therefore you cannot know whether the thing will operate properly when it is very hot.It certainly should not be closeing at 300-400 when the lever is fully open. I strongly suggest that you wait until the stove is cold and then shorten the chain a link or two and then see what happens. Since I have not been round the back of my Vigilant I don't know if this suggestion is practical but could you tie a couple of links together with a metal paperclip as a temporary measure to see if it improves the stove. The thermostat on my stove is quite sensitive:- a change in the position of the little lever of about 40-50 degrees (rotation) changes the stove from a raging inferno to a smoldering cresote generator.This suggests to me that the thermostatic mechanism is quite sensitive and that yours is incorrectly adjusted.
Regards Peter

 

[husky345 vermont resolute]

I really wish they had wood stove classes. I feel like such a failure for not knowing something that seems to be easy for everyone else.

Every stove is different to operate and takes time to perfect

 

[fbelec]

don't feel bad about not knowing. i think the woodstove companies should provide the customer with the first stovetop thermometer. it would help the person running the stove get to know how and what to do and would probably cut down on calls back to the company asking what is wrong with my woodstove and also prevent damaging stove parts on a warranty and out of warranty

 

[begreen]

Our 1979 Resolute came with a great Sandhill thermometer that I still use today, 36 yrs later, and with a shovel and stove tool that I also still use.

 

[ntomsw]

Anyone know what a good value is for this stove? We will be looking to sell it and upgrade to a brand new stove.

Any help on how to figure out what it's worth would be great. Any money towards the new stove is a plus.

Photos of stove in the first few posts.

 

[begreen]

If it is still in good working condition you probably can get $5-600 by waiting until early October to sell. That is more than it sold for new.

 

[ntomsw]

If it is still in good working condition you probably can get $5-600 by waiting until early October to sell. That is more than it sold for new.

Oh that would be great. Someone who wants to clean it out properly and go through it, it would be a great stove I'm sure.

We did use it for the last couple months of winter, and it started working much better and really was a good heater.

But for now, we have decided to just go new.

 

[ntomsw]

How do you find out if your hearth is big enough/good enough for a new stove? We are getting the Jotul F500 Oslo, and I'm curious if it will fit OK.

Or will the stove people be able to tell me?

 

[begreen]

Yes, the stove shop should be able to help here. You could also start a new thread in the main hearth forum about installing an F500. Include full dimensions for the hearth and fireplace opening. Pictures help too so that folks can see what you are seeing and note any potential issues that need to be addressed.

 

[DougA]

I guess I missed this thread when it started. I've got the same stove and there are actually 3 controls. Damper bypass which is the big handle on the left side. The secondary air supply which is the stick that pokes up at the back left and works the heat controlled damper PLUS, there's a small round hole on the bottom left side that has a small swivel cover.

The operation information you have rec'd here is correct. Close the main lever once your fire is running well, which is usually 15 min. The back stick adjustment is normally left, except when you want a hotter fire or one not as hot. The small hole should be open all the time, except when your fire is too hot.

As others have said, I suspect your wood is too wet but I doubt that you need to clean out anything more than you have already. This is a pretty easy design and one of the best stoves made in it's day. I sold mine only because I wanted more heat than it could make. I regularly ran mine at 600 and back decades ago when I had to buy wood, it was a constant battle to create enough heat when the wood was too wet. In the last year, it actually was a problem overheating using very dry wood.

Keep in mind that new stoves will be even more finicky with wet wood than this VC. This forum is full of people who have wood problems that are sure the real culprit is something else.

 

[ntomsw]

Yes, the stove shop should be able to help here. You could also start a new thread in the main hearth forum about installing an F500. Include full dimensions for the hearth and fireplace opening. Pictures help too so that folks can see what you are seeing and note any potential issues that need to be addressed.

I'll do that, thank you!