I was thinking about this one overnight. This stove has a thermostatic damper in the rear of the stove. Burying the back of the stove in the tight space of the kiva may cause it to burn incorrectly, due to overheating of the thermostat.
Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run
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Well I would not say it is “Buried” Aaaand the thing is I am not getting hit burn at all and it definitely is not hot in the inside of kiva. Lots of room there. But…..
If it was running too hot the thermostat would start shutting any damper control?
I am more and more impressed with this little stove and am feeling better about its performance. We go to bed at 9 pm and I stoke it about half way maybe a 3-4” split and a 3-4 inch round and or a 5 inch round and we have a sweet bed of coals in morning and it takes time to get them to ignite new material and flame. I will occasionally use a lighter torch to ignite the smoke for a fresh flame. We are going to have a fireplace place come check it out. Stove is 50% outside of kiva and I can easily hold my hand inside kiva.
![[Hearth.com] Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/303/303917-ad0c1d3df199d1f84da9516821dfabaa.jpg?hash=J3l4vSuO2s "[Hearth.com] Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run")
Yes, the thermostat design generally works best in an open space with room air circulating around the stove. It may be closing the air off prematurely due to heat buildup at the back of the kiva.
Seems it is always shut down considering the constant slow burn and belching smoke
Suggesting that indeed the thermostat is hotter than the stove likes because the stove can not shed its heat very well back there.
A stove only running low is precisely the symptom of a thermostat tucked in a cavity.
A stove only running low is precisely the symptom of a thermostat tucked in a cavity.
OK sooo local fireplace stove people did the math on my roof and the fact that I have two chimneys right next to each other and here are the parts they suggest with PRICES. I understand the Metal insulated wall pipe but the transition pipe and its cost and where is that supposed to go? On top of my chimney? I am getting very confused by the differences in costs and high costs. Anyone care to weigh in?
![[Hearth.com] Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/304/304472-92fad2aaa959547c363d6bdc5c149a98.jpg?hash=ans92CeT85 "[Hearth.com] Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run")
![[Hearth.com] Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/304/304474-265b3357f7244cd619d6c7a89ea2f84f.jpg?hash=MADyOdX7Xt "[Hearth.com] Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run")
![[Hearth.com] Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/304/304475-d0cad6a8dd280160adeef9346efa0c3f.jpg?hash=bdf-Rg1sNS "[Hearth.com] Vermont Casting Aspen C3 - How hot should it run")
IMO If the issue is with the stove thermostat misreading due to being inside of a hot space, then adding more chimney is not the solution. 20ft should be providing a strong enough draft and it's been established that the wood is dry. In this circumstance, I think this is the wrong stove for this location.
What's your altitude? The manual says 16 feet for sea level. I saw you mentioned 20 feet with an elbow. If you're up high and your thermostat is malfunctioning and closing just a bit more than ideal, you could be setting yourself up for issues.
I concur with the other opinions. The thermostat inside the firebox is probably getting hot faster than it should, leading it to shut down too much and smolder the fire.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Try adding a small blower on the floor behind the stove blowing up. I have one like this.
AC Infinity AIRBLAZE T10, Universal Fireplace Blower Fan Kit 10" with Temperature and Speed Controller, for Lennox, Hearth Glo, Majestic, Rotom https://a.co/d/ee4zeyO
Being able to see the temp on its probe and the fire and having 1-10 blower speed setting I bet you can fine tune the air flow so that the thermostat regulates the burn rate better.
Altitude is just under 6000 and like I said it is a double kiva (as in two fireplaces back to back ) with separate chimneys terminating tab roof right next to each other at same height.
What about this estimate and part prices? Seems outrageous to add 36”!? And the differing costs in the plates?
You can get the parts feel free to do it yourself. The company you hire has to pay for overhead and employees. Overhead is surprisingly expensive.
Try extending with cheap single wall connector pipe first to. See if it helps. I really think the issue is the thermostat placement
Plus the 2 plates you posted are not the same thing. One is to go from duraliner to duratech. The other doesn't specify what it goes from but it goes to duraplus
I agree, if you want test out whether a chimney extension will work, get a cheap 3' section of 6", single-wall, warm air duct pipe from Home Depot or your hardware store. Remove the cap and insert it, crimped end down, into the chimney pipe. Do this on a calm day and see how much change it makes.
FWIW, that's a pretty big jump in price for the 6DT-AP anchor plate. Is the 14x17 version required? The older version was a lot less expensive.
www.ruralenergy.com
FWIW, that's a pretty big jump in price for the 6DT-AP anchor plate. Is the 14x17 version required? The older version was a lot less expensive.
DuraVent DT Anchor Plate 6DT-AP
Our Stove Pipe DT Anchor Plate 6" DuraVent 6DT-AP is a double-wall, all-fuel chimney system for use with wood stoves, fireplaces, furnaces, boilers, ranges, water heaters or other appliances fueled by wood, oil, coal, or gas and zero-clearance fireplaces
www.ruralenergy.com
Did I ask about labor or hiring anyone? I know about overhead I have been a working surviving Artist my whole life. I am just trying to find the parts that will work at a reasonable price and I am able to do it myself.
I think my problem lies with both stack height and overheated damper control like you said. My tile chimney liner holding the 6” liner is only about 8”. Is the photo you posted for the transition I am trying to make from clay liner to a insulated 36”. Also I have been told the two chimney stacks right next to each other is a non starter. I am at 5800 ft and chimney is 20ft from stove top to existing chimney top.I agree, if you want test out whether a chimney extension will work, get a cheap 3' section of 6", single-wall, warm air duct pipe from Home Depot or your hardware store. Remove the cap and insert it, crimped end down, into the chimney pipe. Do this on a calm day and see how much change it makes.
FWIW, that's a pretty big jump in price for the 6DT-AP anchor plate. Is the 14x17 version required? The older version was a lot less expensive.
DuraVent DT Anchor Plate 6DT-AP
Our Stove Pipe DT Anchor Plate 6" DuraVent 6DT-AP is a double-wall, all-fuel chimney system for use with wood stoves, fireplaces, furnaces, boilers, ranges, water heaters or other appliances fueled by wood, oil, coal, or gas and zero-clearance fireplaces
So I wish I knew if it is also too big for my 8” tile liner? Does not list total size just pipe size.
As an estimate of how the minimum flue height should be extended, other manufacturers recommend the following.
- add 2 ft for each 90 deg elbow
- add 2 ft for each ft of horizontal run
- add half a ft for each 1000 ft above sea level, starting at 1000 ft
In your case (assuming a 1 ft horizontal run) that would amount to 16 (standard recommended heights) + 2 + 2 + 2.5 = 22.5 ft minimum recommended height.
Yes this is other manufacturers, but draft needed is affected by these parameters independent of what stove is under the chimney.
So, while I do think the thermostat issue is likely (a large part of ) the cause of the trouble, IF you want to test a taller chimney, I would go to 23 ft. Note then that each 5 ft above the roof needs a brace.
- add 2 ft for each 90 deg elbow
- add 2 ft for each ft of horizontal run
- add half a ft for each 1000 ft above sea level, starting at 1000 ft
In your case (assuming a 1 ft horizontal run) that would amount to 16 (standard recommended heights) + 2 + 2 + 2.5 = 22.5 ft minimum recommended height.
Yes this is other manufacturers, but draft needed is affected by these parameters independent of what stove is under the chimney.
So, while I do think the thermostat issue is likely (a large part of ) the cause of the trouble, IF you want to test a taller chimney, I would go to 23 ft. Note then that each 5 ft above the roof needs a brace.
Can one go too high? I have one approximately 40 degree elbow right out of stove directly to my liner.
Yeah I was thinking of a way to do that. First thing when I remove the stove I am going to open the kiva cavity/Cave up to try to give it a little space. Also use a stovetop heat generated fan tht i just got. Tried it out on my old boxstove in my studio and am pretty impressed. Also will use the temp gauges I just received. As for a on stove blower I do not have much room under stove because it had to be installed without legs and only on 2-1/2" bricks for a base. This has been a BeeAtch.
It is a minimum recommended height. Too high is unlikely.
However, a 45 deg elbow adds 1 ft. Zero horizontal run adds of course zero . The 6000 ft elevation adds 2.5 ft.
So recommended is then 16+1+2.5=19.5
(Unsurprisingly exactly (20 ft) what begreen mentioned.)
If you have 20 ft, I think it is likely to be a waste of money to add more. If you do want to try, I would add 2 or 3 ft. Not more than 5 ft.
There is "too much" - it would result in high draft and less controllable fire, more heat.up the flue.
(edit for completeness: as implied above, 5 ft above the minimum (as adjusted for elbows and elevation etc) is not likely to be too high. Nevertheless, "too high" is possible - in that case a key dampler in the flue is a solution. But that is not pertinent in this case.)
However, a 45 deg elbow adds 1 ft. Zero horizontal run adds of course zero . The 6000 ft elevation adds 2.5 ft.
So recommended is then 16+1+2.5=19.5
(Unsurprisingly exactly (20 ft) what begreen mentioned.)
If you have 20 ft, I think it is likely to be a waste of money to add more. If you do want to try, I would add 2 or 3 ft. Not more than 5 ft.
There is "too much" - it would result in high draft and less controllable fire, more heat.up the flue.
(edit for completeness: as implied above, 5 ft above the minimum (as adjusted for elbows and elevation etc) is not likely to be too high. Nevertheless, "too high" is possible - in that case a key dampler in the flue is a solution. But that is not pertinent in this case.)
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This looks cool. So let me understand this correctly. It has to attach to bottom of stove and sucks in cool air and pushes warm air up and over the back of the stove? the description of how it works in the ad is vague? Can it sit freestanding under stove?
My suggestion is get a stove that you control not one that is controlled by a thermostat stuffed back inside a fireplace
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