Used Dolmar 7900 price

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Some chain auto parts stores (Autozone, for an example, in my part of the country) have free loaner tool programs. Before I bought my own compression tester, I just borrowed one from the store down the street. You put down a deposit, and then get a full refund when you return the tool.

I would not bother trying to build a compression tester unless I considered it a fun challenge, even if the components were free -- not when a new generic model can be had for less than $15 on eBay.
 
that is good to know .....the fella at the home depot did let me use the one from their shop to test the MAKlmar....i mean DOLkita 6421..............
 
and what was the compression? My Stihl290 needs a backup and I don't like to bend over much to cut wood. A 32" bar would allow me to stand up.

Mischa Shashumshkavich said:
that is good to know .....the fella at the home depot did let me use the one from their shop to test the MAKlmar....i mean DOLkita 6421..............
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Highbeam said:
and what was the compression? My Stihl290 needs a backup and I don't like to bend over much to cut wood. A 32" bar would allow me to stand up.
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....well, first let me say that i really have no experience testing chainsaws.....just what brief amount i was able to read that day before i went to HD....one thing i didn't do that i read about afterwards was to hold the trigger while testing.....but after 4 tests/resets i got an average reading of 170-180.....once i get my own tester i will try it again.....have you ever felt the 6421? it isn't the lightest of saws, and i'm not sure how well it would handle a 32'' bar......i'm sure it can handle it,but you'd most likely lose some oomph and speed.....but i've been told that there is an upgrade kit that will bring the saw up to 79cc.....or 84cc ......which i have to look into (since i can order direct,heh,heh)
 
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i was wondering about that muffler too.....trying to recall reading something about the catalytic converter, and it running cooler(?) without, or removing the converter is somehow better for the engine.....
 
I am very happy with the OEM 79cc top end I put on the busted 6401 I picked up last month, though I've only made a handful of cuts with it because my wood stacks are already full and I just can't keep bringing wood home. I just sold my MS460 on eBay, and I don't expect to miss it. To be fair, the 460 had a lot of miles on it whereas the 6401 (now a 7901) is practically new.

From what I've read the stock 6401 can handle longer bars than you'd typically expect of a 64cc saw. I don't think it would be too happy with a 32" bar completely buried in hardwood, but if you're not really using all of that length except to avoid bending over then it might be fine. 32" seems to be the longest that most people use regularly even on the 79cc / 84cc version -- not for lack of power, but because that's about the limit of what the oiler can keep up with.
 
Jon1270 said:
I am very happy with the OEM 79cc top end I put on the busted 6401 I picked up last month, though I've only made a handful of cuts with it because my wood stacks are already full and I just can't keep bringing wood home. I just sold my MS460 on eBay, and I don't expect to miss it. To be fair, the 460 had a lot of miles on it whereas the 6401 (now a 7901) is practically new.

From what I've read the stock 6401 can handle longer bars than you'd typically expect of a 64cc saw. I don't think it would be too happy with a 32" bar completely buried in hardwood, but if you're not really using all of that length except to avoid bending over then it might be fine. 32" seems to be the longest that most people use regularly even on the 79cc / 84cc version -- not for lack of power, but because that's about the limit of what the oiler can keep up with.
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.....that makes sense. with the oiler, .......i'm gonna check to see if i can get that 79cc kit direct( my employer deals in makita) because it would prob. be a good idea to have one on hand.....did you change it out yourself,or bring it to someone? as far as stihl, i'm very happy with the 026 i was lucky to get,it's a smaller saw,but man that thing is nice.....i think once i find the right chain for the 6421(it has safety chain that came when i got it) i will be very happy indeed with those 2 saws.....
 
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You guys suck, now I want a 7900 (old HD saw) with a 32" bar.
 
Mischa Shashumshkavich said:
....did you change it out yourself,or bring it to someone?
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I did it myself, but I've been fixing broken saws as a hobby for a year or so. As such things go this is an easy upgrade, but having a kit of special tools definitely made it easier.
 
Jon1270 said:
I did it myself, but I've been fixing broken saws as a hobby for a year or so. As such things go this is an easy upgrade, but having a kit of special tools definitely made it easier.
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.....if only there were a video tutorial.....then i can see if it is beyond by ability at this time......i'd love to save some money with some DIY, because most small engine repair places around here are charging $80-$100 an hr. just on labor alone....add in the diagnostic fee and cost of parts and it can get steep fast.....
 
Mischa Shashumshkavich said:
.....if only there were a video tutorial.....then i can see if it is beyond by ability at this time......i'd love to save some money with some DIY, because most small engine repair places around here are charging $80-$100 an hr. just on labor alone....add in the diagnostic fee and cost of parts and it can get steep fast.....
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The process isn't complicated, but it is a bit delicate at some points. You have to be careful, for example, not to drop debris into the open crankcase. It's important to get the clips that hold the wrist pin in place positioned correctly, and to avoid scratching the soft aluminum piston. It's also a really good idea to vacuum or pressure-test the engine after assembly to be sure you didn't inadvertently leave an air leak somewhere. I found a small leak when I tested my Makita . A small chunk of sawdust had clung to the decomp valve's washer, preventing a good seal.

Before you risk such an expensive piece of hardware I'd suggest taking apart and putting back together a broken saw that you can pick up for cheap, just to get a feel for the work. The 6401 is built more like an Husqvarna than a Stihl in most respects, so a non-clamshell Husky would be a great choice to practice on.
 
Jon1270 said:
The process isn't complicated, but it is a bit delicate at some points. You have to be careful, for example, not to drop debris into the open crankcase. It's important to get the clips that hold the wrist pin in place positioned correctly, and to avoid scratching the soft aluminum piston. It's also a really good idea to vacuum or pressure-test the engine after assembly to be sure you didn't inadvertently leave an air leak somewhere. I found a small leak when I tested my Makita . A small chunk of sawdust had clung to the decomp valve's washer, preventing a good seal.

Before you risk such an expensive piece of hardware I'd suggest taking apart and putting back together a broken saw that you can pick up for cheap, just to get a feel for the work. The 6401 is built more like an Husqvarna than a Stihl in most respects, so a non-clamshell Husky would be a great choice to practice on.
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that's what i'd like to do, get a saw to learn on.....i do have a small poulan 2150 i have to change the flywheel on ( which i've never done) and replace worn fuel lines(if that 's where the leak is originating) the flywheel looks to have a small piece broken or sheared off right near the center....but since the saw isn't mine,i can't go wild taking it all apart.just to learn on...... but i will keep an eye out for a u/husky w/a non clamshell....that's really what i need is a saw to practice breaking down and putting together.....first i need to get a comp. & vac. tester.........and a tach would be nice too.......and one of those tool kits from bailey's.....and am i slipping into CAD and is it to late for me? i'm already slightly OCD, so will eventually have O.C.D.C.A.D.
 
Or judt practice on the 6401 without installing the new parts. Even the used hd 6401 for 250$ will run and the risk is just 250$.
 
Highbeam said:
Or judt practice on the 6401 without installing the new parts. Even the used hd 6401 for 250$ will run and the risk is just 250$.
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.....perhaps when i am done cutting all the wood for the next winter i will do just that
 
before i purchased the used 6421, i was talking with a guy at a small engine repair shop because he is a Dolmar dealer, i ask him for some quotes and tell him i am looking for prices on a new saw,so he gives me some quotes, i thank him and say i'll be in touch.......a few weeks go by,and he calls me up saying that the saw came in.....but between the time we spoke and the time he called back, i had gotten the call from HD and was able to get the used saw.....now i feel bad about the guy ordering a new saw(even though i didn't actually place an order for it) i have to call him and tell him not to hold it for me
 
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