Trying to decide on a different wood stove for our yurt

[begreen]

This is earthquake country. If on a platform, bolt the stove to the platform, and platform to the yurt deck. Actually I would bolt the stove, through the hearth protection to the yurt deck regardless. If the earth starts shaking, the last thing you want is a hot stove tap dancing across the floor.

 

[roryamber]

Skmass I like your thinkin! But unfortunately the hole is about 6' off the floor!

From my understanding a lot of heat comes off the run of pipe inside the house. Is that a negligible loss going straight out the back?

 

[vvvv]

Skmass I like your thinkin! But unfortunately the hole is about 6' off the floor!

From my understanding a lot of heat comes off the run of pipe inside the house. Is that a negligible loss going straight out the back?

the heat that comes off the pipe can result in poor draft & creosote deposited within. outdoor chimni is a bad idea in general. dry cedar burns fast & hot, oak doesnt like to dry but the combo might work. i'm kinda worried about your burning savvy so keep asking questions

 

[roryamber]

Skmass I like your thinkin! But unfortunately the hole is about 6' off the floor!

From my understanding a lot of heat comes off the run of pipe inside the house. Is that a negligible loss going straight out the back?

the heat that comes off the pipe can result in poor draft & creosote deposited within. outdoor chimni is a bad idea in general. dry cedar burns fast & hot, oak doesnt like to dry but the combo might work. i'm kinda worried about your burning savvy so keep asking questions

I'm confused by your answer. Do you mean the heat coming off the pipe indoors or outdoors results in poor draft/creosote build-up? (In my post I was referring to the benefit of have a run of pipe indoors so the heat can escape into the room. That's what I had in mind when I designed it.) Isn't that why the class a chimney is heavily insulated so when it's outside it won't get cooled too fast thus killing the draft and causing creosote build-up?

Your worry is not misplaced. My burning saavy is one season of experience with this set-up and a lot of online reading.
I use cedar because we got a lot of it for free, but I understand that it burns fast and hot so it's mostly just for starting. Oak is the most prevalent wood up here, that's why we use it. There is also almond wood available from the valley. Plus pine is cheap, but I've heard to avoid that. We've got a bunch of Doug Fir scrap too to burn, that I'm guessing is another hot fast burn like pine?

I understand draft to some degree: hot/cold, pressure differential. It's just the nuances that get me, the details of how to work the different stoves and knowing what's best for my situation.

 

[roryamber]

BG- I found an offset chart for the 45 degree angle setup on page 11 of this pdf doc.
(broken link removed)
I'm going to see if it will work at all for me.

Here's another question: If I get a stove with a 6" flue do I go immediately into the 8" DVL with an adapter straight off the stove?

 

[begreen]

Truth be told, I would prefer to see the whole system done in 6", it would draft better for a stove with a 6" flue requirement. The 8" pipe is going to slow down the draft a bit. It is within specs, but the short pipe and bends are all working against draft. My feeling is to do the DVL pipe in 6" and then to increase to 8" at the class A adapter. But I would like to hear other opinions on this.

As for wood, I will be burning doug fir almost exclusively this winter. It is good firewood, just be sure it is seasoned, dry wood. Almond is great too. I only use cedar to start fires and when the temps are warmer. Pine is ok to in a modern EPA stove. It will burn up quicker, but it will burn cleanly as long as it is seasoned dry. Damp or partially seasoned wood makes for a cooler fire, less heat and much more creosote. A lot of us will burn softwood in the fall/spring, when you don't need as much heat, and hardwood in the winter. In your case I would save the fir and almond for winter fires. If you don't have your wood already and need to buy it, be sure to get it soon and that it has been split and seasoned for at least a year. Dry wood makes a lot of difference.

Indirectly, That is what blimp was referring too. The more heat that is lost from the flue pipe, the cooler the flue gases will be. Get the pipe cool enough and it will start to condense creosote deposits in the pipe. But I think your run is short enough and with double-wall pipe this really is not an issue. Don't fret about it.

 

[vvvv]

(broken link removed to http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/aboutchimneys.htm)

 

[roryamber]

Thanks Blimp, that was a really helpful link. I can see now that the optimal set-up would be to go straight up the middle of the yurt and out at the pinnacle. That would keep most of the chimney inside. But it'd be really tricky! We already have water leaks as it is. In the very least I'm going to try to do the 45 degree angles and add to my outside chimney.

 

[roryamber]

I inquired about the Federal Airtight and got a call back. I'm going to go look at it later today or tomorrow. Can you please give me some pointers on how to tell if it is functional and in good working order? The CL ad said it has a new catalytic combustor.
Blimp- I did read the link you provided and it talked about a spring-type thermostat on the side door and a bimetallic damper on the back connected to a "flapper", so I will look for those to be working. Anything else anyone could recommend to look for?

BG- I also got a reply on the Napoleon and smaller stove from CL- that seller is getting me model numbers and photos.

 

[roryamber]

I went and looked at it. The grate in the bottom is cracked and the damper that redirects to the catalytic combustor is cracked as well. The sir adjuster on the side door is stuck closed. The glass is really dirty. I don't know. Looks good otherwise, the blower works, but the firebox is sure small!

 

[roryamber]

FYI It's from 1982 and made by Dutchwest India LTS Model FA224CCML made in Taiwan.

 

[begreen]

Pass, you don't need more headaches. Any luck with the Napoleon guy?

 

[roryamber]

No, she said she'd get some pics and model numbers for me today, but none so far!

I found this beautiful stove, so gorgeous, but it's a bit of a drive
(broken link removed to http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/app/1919325093.html)

And this Lopi, which is local, but kinds pricey for used
(broken link removed to http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/for/1919051076.html)

I wrote and asked for model numbers. Do you know if these are worth further pursuing? I really appreciate your input!

 

[begreen]

Yes I saw them. The Lopi seems a bit overpriced, but it is a good stove, so maybe. Ask them for the year, make and model of the Lopi. This information should be on the back label on the stove. Not sure about the Italian stove as a heater. It looks like it would be too dominant for the yurt.

Not knowing the stove history, you might be better off considering the Englander 13NC. It's a good affordable 2 cu ft stove that will get you a 30% tax credit. It's available at www.overstockstoves.com for $710 shipping included. http://www.overstockstoves.com/50epacenowos.html. The only caveat is that it needs good side clearances unless you buy the side shields and it has very stiff hearth requirements. Nothing insurmountable, just takes planning for the installation. But it would start you off fresh with a good stove.

 

[roryamber]

Wow, good price for the NC-13. I am sort of feeling the same way, leaning towards new, plus it could be bought on credit, and I could use the cash for a good supply of wood. Plus a tax credit is bonus! And I like the idea of an efficient stove.
Thanks!

 

[roryamber]

Do you know what the difference is in the models 50-TNC13 and 50-SNC13?

Edit: I think I figured it out- they're the same but marketed under different brand names: Timber Ridge or Summers Heat

 

[begreen]

Yep, you've got it right.

 

[weatherguy]

Sorry for the interruption but Ive always been fascinated by yurts but have a question. Where do you poop?

 

[begreen]

I'm not sure about Amber's setup, but our friend's have the classiest outhouse I have ever seen or used.

 

[roryamber]

No problem, we have an incinolet toilet for the poop. We have quite a nice little bathroom indoors and a bedroom next it, both situated under a loft.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

Thanks Blimp, that was a really helpful link. I can see now that the optimal set-up would be to go straight up the middle of the yurt and out at the pinnacle. That would keep most of the chimney inside. But it'd be really tricky! We already have water leaks as it is. In the very least I'm going to try to do the 45 degree angles and add to my outside chimney.

problem is mounting a ceiling box/support system

typical installs go out side wall, so tee support and pipe can be bolted to two posts, or pt 4x4's sunk into the ground...

 

[roryamber]

You're right, we would have to custom build something custom for it where the dome is now. Better to go through the wall for practical reasons and to keep the ash and soot off the vinyl roof.

BG- The lady got back to me on the stoves. The small one is Sweet Home Stove Works Alpine AFX. The Napoleon is 1000X. I can't find any info on either of them. Here are pics. Don't know prices, I asked but no response as of yet.

 

[begreen]

I haven't heard of a Napoleon 1000x either and know nothing about the Sweet Home except the name. Neither look too exciting when compared to a new 13NC at $500 after the tax credit.

How far is the Reno area? This one showed up a couple days ago, eager to sell, not sure what their bottom line is.

(broken link removed to http://reno.craigslist.org/hsh/1918869347.html)

 

[roryamber]

That's pretty far! Several hours! It's a beautiful drive but don't think I have the time to do that.

 

[tickbitty]

I love it that someone here can post questions about something like a yurt, that sounds so uncommon to me, and get such great informed advice!