Damn. Will it at least last me a year? Money saved on oil will at least be worth it.
Total Creosote Blockage After 1-2 Fires
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claydogg84
Minister of Fire
Should this be a concern of mine as well? I bought whatever the best liner was available from chimney liner depot. I believe it was advertised as double wall?
Yeah. It might last a long time. The outer layer is just like a 316ti single wall liner. I just didn't want the thing clogging up those puckers with creosote and wrecking draft and was getting close to the age that I wouldn't be able to work up on the roof installing liners anymore so I just went ahead and got it over with.
I'm wondering if a thread about liner reviews from different suppliers or manufacturers should be started? Might be 10 years in the making but could prove to be valuable to a lot of people down the road.
It is not a fault of the specific manufacturer. It is a fault in that type of liner. I prefer heavy wall or mid weight liners but would go with regular light wall any day over that double wall stuff. As long as you are buying from a reputable manufacturer it just comes down to liner type.
Ok. So for all future searches on what kind of flexible liner to buy, HEAVY WALL IS THE BEST! I didn't add the mid weight because the ones I researched either say heavy wall, or whatever their commercial name is for their lighter weight liner, which could be the crap that I bought, or the medium weight you're suggesting. And the only way to know, I assume, is if you've bought and installed a few of each. I hope this just helps others in the future. If I have any problems with mine I'll be sure to post them here.
The key if you want it is "two ply smooth wall". That is the crap. Me and bholler have been posting about that for a long time.
Another irritating thing about that stuff is that nobody tells you that the right way to install it is with the bonded edges down.
Another irritating thing about that stuff is that nobody tells you that the right way to install it is with the bonded edges down.
Actually there were arrows painted up and down the liner delineating which end was up. Is it possible they instructed me to install it upside down?
Looks like it is installed correctly to me if that shot is from the top down. Don't worry about it. Just inspect it when you do cleanings. If nothing gets worse, don't worry about it.
no the loose edge should be down otherwise anything running down the liner would get directed between the layers.
not if they are laying flat like they are supposed to. The loose edges go down. Just like with rigid liner stove pipe and heavy wall the seam always points down on the inside.
Ya that shot is from the bottom. Those loose edges are actually sitting inside the top of the t section. I've tried pushing them back in but as metal bends, it stretches so it won't be perfect. Is it worth pulling out and sawing that bit off? Or will it hold up since it's inside the t?
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
Well besides the fact that once that inner layer is not longer in place you only have half of the intended thickness. That flap hanging out creates an area of turbulence which creates a hot spot putting extra stress on the area that is already damaged. And if you have a chimney fire that spot really traps heat and is likely to burn through. As well once the liner is puckered a little bit it gets worse quickly due to cleanings
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
Would there be reason to think that the flap would increase the chance of chimney fire?
Not really. The turbulence could increase the creosote buildup in that area slightly but i doubt it would be enough to make any real difference.
Just an update on the total creosote blockage. Since replacing the liner, the T body and adding a piece of rigid SS liner with a cap below the T body terminating in my basement clean out, I've not experienced any creosote build up. I slowly replaced everything back to the original set up, starting with 6" double wall pipe with only one 90 elbow and a gradual 8" oval to 6" round (which left the stove facing sideways), and one by one put back the original 8" single wall with two 90's and the ubrupt 8" round to 6". Still no noticeable build and ridiculous draft. Burned through a 1/2 cord steadily and swept it, yielding about a 1/3 cup or less of fine powder.
So can we conclude this total blockage was a direct result of cold air coming up from the open T body? Perhaps worsened but not directly caused by slightly subpar wood at 23-25% moisture, less than optimal stovetop temps, and bad burning technique trying to get an overnight smolder?
So can we conclude this total blockage was a direct result of cold air coming up from the open T body? Perhaps worsened but not directly caused by slightly subpar wood at 23-25% moisture, less than optimal stovetop temps, and bad burning technique trying to get an overnight smolder?
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
In the absence of a chimney fire, would this "hot spot" burn through during normal stove operation?
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
would you figure this would likely take a good number of years to occur under normal operation? Thanks for your responses, by the way.
There are way to many variables for me to give any sort of estimate on the time frame
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