To All the Hearth Nerds....

[mellow]

Maybe a picture would help, you have done the middle picture correct?

 

[mellow]

Ahh now I see, it was so dark it looked like the surround above. Is that galvanized pipe?

 

[ambull01]

Ahh now I see, it was so dark it looked like the surround above. Is that galvanized pipe?

Yep, the middle pic. Not sure if it's galvanized pipe. I'll have to check when I get home tonight.

 

[ambull01]

Ahh now I see, it was so dark it looked like the surround above. Is that galvanized pipe?

You know what, I think it is galvanized. It's dull grey in color. Just great, father in-law is trying to kill me evidently.

 

[mellow]

Pretty sure it is, also see that begreen mentioned it as well, that is a no go for wood burning exhaust.

Cleaning that setup is going to be a royal pain in the arse, if there is anyway to get a top to bottom 6" stainless steel liner down that chimney (insulated prefered) then I would do it.

I would call a local stove dealer and see if they can get you a piece long enough of stainless to do that direct connect properly at a minimum.

I have had good success with Bylers up in Dover, not sure how close they are to you.

 

[ambull01]

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/galvanized-stove-pipe-dangers-88702.html

Check out that link.

 

[mellow]

Not to rain on your parade even more but I would also double check the clearance to combustibles to that mantle and make sure you are ok.

 

[ambull01]

Pretty sure it is, also see that begreen mentioned it as well, that is a no go for wood burning exhaust.

Cleaning that setup is going to be a royal pain in the arse, if there is anyway to get a top to bottom 6" stainless steel liner down that chimney (insulated prefered) then I would do it.

I would call a local stove dealer and see if they can get you a piece long enough of stainless to do that direct connect properly at a minimum.

I have had good success with Bylers up in Dover, not sure how close they are to you.

Yeah I was thinking cleaning the chimney would be a freaking major under taking.

I'm in Centreville, so not that far, probably 40 min.

 

[ambull01]

Not to rain on your parade even more but I would also double check the clearance to combustibles to that mantle and make sure you are ok.

Will do. Thanks for all the advice sir. Even though my jubilation has significantly dropped with the prospect of not burning wood this year I can handle a little slap of reality much better than burning my house down

 

[mellow]

I would check out pages 14-16 of the manual of that stove. They are specific for a reason when they say stainless steel for the liner, and that wood mantle looks to be closer than the required 10" clearance to the sides.

(broken link removed to http://www.century-heating.com/upload/documents/manuels/45399A_07-07-2014.pdf)

Just looking out for your best interests, we want people to burn safe.

 

[ambull01]

I would check out pages 14-16 of the manual of that stove. They are specific for a reason when they say stainless steel for the liner, and that wood mantle looks to be closer than the required 10" clearance to the sides.

(broken link removed to http://www.century-heating.com/upload/documents/manuels/45399A_07-07-2014.pdf)

Just looking out for your best interests, we want people to burn safe.

I'm going to take measurements tonight.

Seems to be some conflicting info about using galvanized pipe. I think I'll get some SS pipe just to be safe.

 

[mellow]

Insurance company is going to go by that user manual if anything happens. Btw you have called them and let them know you have added an insert and need to add that to the policy right?

 

[begreen]

Bite the bullet, get the chimney cleaned first, then install a proper 6" stainless steel liner up to the chimney top. You will find the stove operates better and will be much easier to clean. But most importantly it will be safer as well. Yes, it's another cost, but this is a one time investment in safety and performance that will pay back many times over the years. Note, there is no conflict about what type of metal to use. Stainless steel is required.

The mantel may need some heat shielding if it doesn't meet clearances. That is possible with a bit of sheetmetal painted black attached to inner perimeter of the fireplace opening so that it projects about an inch past the mantel trim.

 

[ambull01]

Insurance company is going to go by that user manual if anything happens. Btw you have called them and let them know you have added an insert and need to add that to the policy right?

I told my agent. Jeez, I have some major work to do. I should just sell this damn thing and go back to electric heat lol. I'll use the firewood for outside fires.

 

[Jags]

I told my agent. Jeez, I have some major work to do. I should just sell this damn thing and go back to electric heat lol. I'll use the firewood for outside fires.

Easy soldier. We can get you through this.
You are better than half way there, just a few things to correct. Get rid of the galvanized pipe. Get a liner in that chimney (after a proper sweeping) and check your clearances. Even if the clearances to the mantle are a bit shy, there are easy ways to remedy that (heat shield).

 

[ambull01]

Bite the bullet, get the chimney cleaned first, then install a proper 6" stainless steel liner up to the chimney top. You will find the stove operates better and will be much easier to clean. But most importantly it will be safer as well. Yes, it's another cost, but this is a one time investment in safety and performance that will pay back many times over the years. Note, there is no conflict about what type of metal to use. Stainless steel is required.

The mantel may need some heat shielding if it doesn't meet clearances. That is possible with a bit of sheetmetal painted black attached to inner perimeter of the fireplace opening so that it projects about an inch past the mantel trim.

True, sounds like good advice. I can be a little hard headed at times but the issues with this installation is kind of frightening. I'll wait until next year to burn after a SS liner, liner insulation, one piece block off plate, hearth extension, clearance requirement fix, etc. Gives me some time to do things the right way and stock up on wood. Should be dry by next winter so I'll have a nice supply.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like a plan. We want you safe, warm and happy.

 

[ambull01]

Easy soldier. We can get you through this.
You are better than half way there, just a few things to correct. Get rid of the galvanized pipe. Get a liner in that chimney (after a proper sweeping) and check your clearances. Even if the clearances to the mantle are a bit shy, there are easy ways to remedy that (heat shield).

Aye aye sir!
Just had the chimney swept. One thing though, think that sweep was a total rip off. Charged me $150 and didn't even go on the roof. I'll research heat shields.

 

[ambull01]

Sounds like a plan. We want you safe, warm and happy.

Yes, I want to have a warm and fuzzy for a long time. Thank you everyone for ripping me a new one. Needed that hefty dose of reality to fix this Frankensteinish installation.

 

[Jags]

You didn't invent any of these issues. We have seen them before. Our main concern is a safe install for you and yours along with a little friendly banter if warranted (and sometimes even when its not ). You'll get there. Stick around and follow the collective wisdom of the likes of BG, BroB, Mellow and a host of others.
I'm just here to poke a stick at people when they start to nod off.

 

[ambull01]

You didn't invent any of these issues. We have seen them before. Our main concern is a safe install for you and yours along with a little friendly banter if warranted (and sometimes even when its not ). You'll get there. Stick around and follow the collective wisdom of the likes of BG, BroB and the many others.
I'm just here to poke a stick at people when they start to nod off.

I can imagine. Don't know how you guys still manage to show patience with myself and my fellow newbs.

Looking over the manual again and read "do not exceed 840 degrees." That seems extremely high right? I've read a lot about stove top temps in the 600s as the point to shoot for. Considering this is an insert that was designed to put out most of the heat through the front, how in the name of all that is holy can the top get up to 840!?

 

[begreen]

Some folks do some dangerous things. Dump a load of construction scraps and pallet wood on a hot bed of coals and you will see a serious conflagration.

 

[Jags]

That seems extremely high right?

Yes - I would think that most would consider that on the high side of acceptable. My stove has only hit that mark a small handful of times.

 

[mellow]

With a good draft and dry wood you would be surprised how hot it can get, just remember all that heat created by the secondary burn, most old stoves that would go up the chimney and not be reburned.

Be on the lookout on easternshore and delaware craigslist, I have seen 6" stainless steel flex show up a couple times from people pulling out inserts to install a pellet stove.

Just like this one in baltimore: (broken link removed to http://baltimore.craigslist.org/for/4749626594.html)

 

[ambull01]

Some folks do some dangerous things. Dump a load of construction scraps and pallet wood on a hot bed of coals and you will see a serious conflagration.

Well I was actually thinking about burning pallets, mostly for kindling but possibly as log substitutes as well. Good thing you all killed my dreams.