Overnight burn: second half no fire despite perfect first half - normal?

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Much of my glass will be really dark, but I think that's normal.
Hi Janice, welcome to woodburning with your new stove. I have a catalytic stove but I would never go to 700 degrees stovetop before shutting the air down (even if the cat was already engaged). Perhaps you mean 700 degrees flue temp?

In any case, if your glass is really black at the end of the burn then your moisture content in the wood is still too high and that may be why your dealer told you to run the stove temp up pretty high before shutting it down. Your glass may darken a bit for some of the burn, but most of that should burn off by the end of the burn.
 
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Hi Janice, welcome to woodburning with your new stove. I have a catalytic stove but I would never go to 700 degrees stovetop before shutting the air down (even if the cat was already engaged). Perhaps you mean 700 degrees flue temp?

In any case, if your glass is really black at the end of the burn then your moisture content in the wood is still too high and that may be why your dealer told you to run the stove temp up pretty high before shutting it down. Your glass may darken a bit for some of the burn, but most of that should burn off by the end of the burn.
Hi there - thanks for your message, as I appreciate all assistance.

I had reached out to the manufacturer about having a hard time keeping our flue temp up even when the cat probe shows active and the stovetop temp is high. I asked about where to place thermometers and what temps I should be looking for. This is the exact response: "A stove top gauge should be placed in the middle of the top of the stove, in front of the flue connection. That temperature should not be repeatedly over about 800 degrees. It's operating temperature will vary, but generally speaking, I would say that the top temperature should be reaching to 600-700 degrees before you close the air down for an extended burn... If the catalytic probe temp is in the active range and you are monitoring stove top temperatures to be sure it's reaching 600-700 before shutting the stove down, the pipe temperature will be fine, even if the gauge you're using suggests it's too low."

I don't really feel like I have reason to question that further since it was right from the source.

And sorry I wasn't clear about black glass. It's not that the glass itself is black at the end of a burn. I just meant that once I shut down the air, the window goes almost totally dark so I can't see much Our glass just has minimal black around the edges--been meaning to clean that sometime the stove is cool. (Unfortunately with our string of cold weather that might not happen any time soon.)

If anything, I've been concerned my wood is too dry. I'm not checking on a fresh split, but for some pieces, the moisture meter doesn't even pick up anything. For some, it reads like 7-9% (and the manufacturer said 10-15% is ideal). When I reload on hot coals, the wood takes off immediately and gets blazing hot within like 5 minutes. We're seeking a new delivery of 10-15%, so it will be interesting to see how that affects operation.

Thanks again for reading my situation. I appreciate your input!
 
I didn’t read your post but the title sounds normal to me. I remember couldn’t burning wood that the flame stage would last longer than it did. my experience has been for an overnight per of let’s say eight hours, maybe you get flames for about three or so and then the rest is Kohl’s that eventually burn down load the stove up in the morning. And I know Wood is dry.
 
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I just prefer to be awake while Im burning. Better to be safe than sorry.
 
If you’re not comfortable burning at night. Don’t
 
I have oil heat too. I set it for like 58 at night, then fire time first thing in the morning 5am.....I basically burn 15 hours a day or so, I just use oil at night.
 
I burn 24/7 at home because of the electric heat, but up in the Northwoods once we move I'll probably be a little less dedicated with new tight construction and gas forced air.