Really? No chance of that happening here. Even if you clean them completely you no one wants used brick. Especially not at more than the cost of newI sold my bricks (250) for $1.50 each.
Really? No chance of that happening here. Even if you clean them completely you no one wants used brick. Especially not at more than the cost of newI sold my bricks (250) for $1.50 each.
My house is a 1895 Sears Craftsman home. The bricks were made by a long gone mfg in Weston Oregon. A guy in Walla Walla was re doing his house and already had Weston brick facade. I probably could got $3! But heck, away they went....Really? No chance of that happening here. Even if you clean them completely you no one wants used brick. Especially not at more than the cost of new
I sold my bricks (250) for $1.50 each.
If they were cut sandstone those you could easily sell here. We just have so many brick yards that used bricks are pretty much worthless. You can just about always find something that will match.It was a shame to see the sandstone bricks from our local quarry go away but I had high performance wood burning on my mind. Well, also we liked the idea of not having a pile of bricks land on our head!
The old fireplace chimney was unlined and not the safest, especially after the last earthquake. There was an old Majestic insert in there when we bought the house that ate wood like candy. After a season I put in a Quad 1200 pellet insert, which worked quite well, but I didn't like the noise in the living room. Raising the house made removal of the fireplace a priority. Overall, this has added a lot to the value and safety of the house. The fireplace was odd with the chimney on the side to clear the ridgeline and decaying with an alarming couple of take-offs hidden behind just plaster.Does tearing out the fireplace you have now reduce home resale value? Does it matter? Ask these questions too as you move forward.
How big is your house? Using stove for main or zone type heating? There are some nice stoves with rear flues so you wouldn't need to do any demo. Worst case, you may have to remove part of the hearth if you need more height.
Was that a metal box in a masonry chimney like the op has? If so 45 mins is amazingSorry I missed this thread earlier. I work in the medical fields and have been a bit overwhelmed with the plague lately.
I had a healtilator, it was part of the new build at my house in +/- 1980. Rafters and ceiling joists were planned around the "fireplace" so the old chimney was a straight shot. No flash light required, jut stick my head in the burn box, look up, and see out doors.
My local wood stove emporium agreed to remove my old Healtilator as part of the chimney install for free, as long as I did all the demolition between the existing paint on the living room wall and the offending specimen. Took about 45 minutes with an 8# sledge.
For the "chimney install" I paid for, they disassembled the heatilator, and loaded it in my truck, as well as installing the new chimney. After they were done I drove my truck to the dump, pushed the heatilator bits out, and had to fix the drywall in the stove room, then demoilish the old heatilator platform and build a hearth for my incoming stove.
The worst part (for me) was mudding the drywall patches.
Oops. Mine look the OPs in the first picture. I had one layer of stone veneer against plywood on studs around the firebox opening, and drywall on studs above the mantle. Once I was down to studs I had bare naked heatilator in the stud cage.Was that a metal box in a masonry chimney like the op has? If so 45 mins is amazing
No big deal.Oops. Mine look the OPs in the first picture. I had one layer of stone veneer against plywood on studs around the firebox opening, and drywall on studs above the mantle. Once I was down to studs I had bare naked heatilator in the stud cage.
I did miss the cinderblock in post #32 is partial demo of the orginal pictured in post one.
The design of that stove raises some serious red flags for me. No one has ever tried running a cat with no bypass before. It may end up working out but I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig.Ok, so we've decided to not to do the demo, and are just going to go with a freestanding.
The shops we're talking to are both highly recommending the Jotul F500 V3 Oslo. The Hearthstones aren't quite utilitarian enough for us, as we heat as much as we can on wood. Thoughts? Just read some mixed stuff about the new cat setup on it. But it sounds more durable, being steel, than the ceramic ones at least?
The design of that stove raises some serious red flags for me. No one has ever tried running a cat with no bypass before. It may end up working out but I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig.
Yes it also can lead to clogging warping etc. Reports I have gotten from some in the industry that I trust have not been good so far.Interesting. I had to read up on that some, but essentially, it could potentially makes it hard to get it started and hot since you can't open it up? Is there anything you could recommend similar to that? We're not partial to a catalytic or non cat or any specific brands. Although I suppose we might slightly prefer catalytic due to longer burn times.
Yes it also can lead to clogging warping etc. Reports I have gotten from some in the industry that I trust have not been good so far.
Like I said in the long run it may turn out fine. But it is to new to knowWoof. Thanks for the insight... we're reconsidering
Have you looked at the Woodstock Soapstone company's website? They have a great and proven reputation. If you like the style, I wonder if an Ideal Steel would suit your needs.
Have you looked at the Woodstock Soapstone company's website? They have a great and proven reputation. If you like the style, I wonder if an Ideal Steel would suit your needs.
Have you looked at the Woodstock Soapstone company's website? They have a great and proven reputation. If you like the style, I wonder if an Ideal Steel would suit your needs.
Yes it also can lead to clogging warping etc. Reports I have gotten from some in the industry that I trust have not been good so far.
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