spliting big maple rounds that are rock hard

[rawlins02]

The blow of your swing imparts much more impact if your round is on a solid base. Use the heaviest round you can find (that's not too tall) to split upon. Make sure it's not on soft ground (like springy ground or organic soils). Hard gravel is good. This is especially important on old, hard rounds. They would have split a whole lot easier if they hadn't sat around and hardened up so much.

And yes, sharpen that maul.

I'd like to set them on top of one another. Moving many of the pieces is difficult. They're too heavy. I'm going to sharpen the maul and wedges.

 

[rawlins02]

There is no way I'd try quartering those things without making a relief cut first. I'd roll them on their side, and then saw at a 45 degree angle at whatever depth I think will let them break open. Then I use the cut on the end to hold one of several wedges. If I guessed right, I hear a crack after 3-4 hits. Since I have lots of wedges, if it cracks, I like to take a second and third wedge and put them side by side leaving the first wedge in place. Hit 2 and 3 to drive evenly, retrieve #1, and the thing breaks open.

I understand you don't enjoy the saw, but a relief cut would seem to be the safest possible cut. Can't get pinched, nothing is coming in half unexpectedly. Might be an opportunity to warm up to it. But never lose the healthy respect you have for it.

Here's one on its side. Are you saying make a chainsaw cut shown by the red line? Then lay it flat and put the wedge into that cut to start breaking it open?

 

[30WCF]

Slice it like a pie


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[Soundchasm]

Here's one on its side. Are you saying make a chainsaw cut shown by the red line? Then lay it flat and put the wedge into that cut to start breaking it open?

View attachment 200070

I cut an angle cut from the end down the side. This lets me put really big stuff in my 5-ton electric splitter. If you put your saw facing the end to cut, if your saw has teeth at the start of the blade, you let the teeth bite into the end and the saw isn't going anywhere. I also start them with the saw over the middle of the split (on its side) and the teeth can bite there, too. Just depends on what's easiest. I found a photo that shows what I call a relief cut.

Then stand it on end

It always works. Obviously, some cuts need to be bigger than others. As a 165 lb 59 year old, I've concluded that if it's hard work, I'm doing it wrong.

 

[Soundchasm]

Here's three wedges just for the heck of it.

 

[Soundchasm]

I just finished with one of the larger rounds, about 3' in diameter. Took nearly a half hour to get it to stove-ready splits. Challenges were:

- using the chainsaw for a starter slot did not work. Chainsaw blade just moved around resulting in a shallow wide mark, not a narrow "slot".

Hey, I may be reading this wrong, but are you saying the chain was wandering, as if it weren't tight enough to the bar, or are you saying the chain/bar was just jumping and traveling around and wouldn't really bite? The former is not good, and maybe the latter could be a dull chain.

Rectifying a dull/loose chain was a bit of "inexperience" I'm glad to have behind me. The fastest way to evaluate a chain when you don't have a benchmark is the size of the chips you're throwing. Cutting the end off a log should throw healthy chips. Fine dust is a dull chain. Find a reference for correct chain tension.

I can see a little bouncy-bounce when starting a cut, but it should have settled right in for the cut. A properly working saw will certainly give you more confidence when it performs as you expect.

 

[rawlins02]

Hey, I may be reading this wrong, but are you saying the chain was wandering, as if it weren't tight enough to the bar, or are you saying the chain/bar was just jumping and traveling around and wouldn't really bite? The former is not good, and maybe the latter could be a dull chain.

Rectifying a dull/loose chain was a bit of "inexperience" I'm glad to have behind me. The fastest way to evaluate a chain when you don't have a benchmark is the size of the chips you're throwing. Cutting the end off a log should throw healthy chips. Fine dust is a dull chain. Find a reference for correct chain tension.

I can see a little bouncy-bounce when starting a cut, but it should have settled right in for the cut. A properly working saw will certainly give you more confidence when it performs as you expect.

Chain was just sharpened at a nearby shop. These logs are super hard.

I'm sure I'll figure something out, between the chainsaw, relief cuts, three sharp wedges, and a newly sharpened maul. And just maybe I'll finish the job before winter!

 

[Soundchasm]

Chain was just sharpened at a nearby shop. These logs are super hard.

I'm sure I'll figure something out, between the chainsaw, relief cuts, three sharp wedges, and a newly sharpened maul. And just maybe I'll finish the job before winter!

Cool. Hey, one other thing the forum hipped me up to was to keep an eye on the *top* of the wedge. I have some pretty ancient wedges and the tops blossom/mushroom out after years of wailing on them. It turns out the mushroomy bits become very effective shrapnel that penetrate clothing and skin.

My point is that I got one of those 2" grinding wheels for a drill and it took FOREVER to grind off the cracks and get 4-5 wedges looking even halfway decent. So that's a job best undertaken before it's necessary!

 

[excessads]

[QUOTE=" I'm sure I'll figure something out, between the chainsaw, relief cuts, three sharp wedges, and a newly sharpened maul. And just maybe I'll finish the job before winter![/QUOTE]

Seeing you have quite a bit of rounds, may not be able to wedge/split them all at once, how about grabbing some unwanted pallets to elevate and tarp as many as possible, for now, and wedge/split at your leisure? Rounds I found last year were elevated and tarped for about a year, aside from some minor rain exposure, they are holding up well, and I m almost done with splitting a little at a time.

I don't have a chainsaw, but do have a pair of chaps to protect myself from the Fiskar.

As for wedge, pleasantly surprised how well this works:. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Estwing-5-lb-Sure-Split-Wedge-E5/100351738

I start from the edge of the round like many suggested and whack with a dedicated sledge hammer. I have splitted 20+ inches green soggy maple with the set up and works really well. I use the x27 to create a notch and the wedge goes in perfectly.

In addition, for wedge with a square top, I found out aligning the body and face and strike the wedge as a diamond shape minimize chances of wedge projectile, it always go sideways instead of flying back to you.

Finally I am in my late 40s, even though I work out about 6+hours per week, can't get away w backache/soreness after a good day or splitting, doing planks is the only thing that helps speedy recovery.

My two cents.

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[Jutt77]

Do you have a buddy with a splitter that you could borrow from? Maybe someone on this site (or other similar sites) that is close by with one could exchange for tasty beverages or something? I loan mine out quite often so I thought I'd ask the obvious.

 

[rawlins02]

Made another attempt at splitting the maple rounds. They are like rocks. I bought a 4 lb Stanley hammer to use to drive in wedges. I simply can not penetrate most parts of most rounds with either type of wedge. I also bought a Fiskars X27. After a few mighty swings I was able to split up one round. The X27 is certainly more effective than the Rockforge maul. But it's unlikely that I can effectively split these rounds with the Fiskars and wedges. I don't know anyone with a splitter. I assume I'd have to sharpen the chain several times if I were to use the saw. Before I go that route I'd like to consider what would happen if I can get these rounds off the ground and covered with a tarp for the winter. Let them sit for another 8-10 months. Shouldn't maple reach a point where it's dried some and becomes easier to split, but not rotten or having lost any of its heating potential? They've been sitting in place for about 15 months.

 

[jatoxico]

I had some maple as hard as you describe. Many times even the Fiskar's as sharp as it is would bounce off without any making noticeable mark. You can use the Fiskar's to strike the side instead of the face to get better penetration. Between the saw and hand tools just takes persistence.

 

[rawlins02]

I had some maple as hard as you describe. Many times even the Fiskar's as sharp as it is would bounce off without any making noticeable mark. You can use the Fiskar's to strike the side instead of the face to get better penetration. Between the saw and hand tools just takes persistence.

Yes I did try the side on a few. Agree on the persistence. As suggested, I'm going to try making initial cuts with the saw into which I'll drive a wedge. I just bought another traditional wedge, so have 2 of those and one star shaped. I'd really don't want to use the saw entirely to noodle them down. And I prefer to get then split up before it starts snowing. But may opt to cover them up.

 

[zig]

Before I got a splitter, I used an old single bit ax to take slices off the outside to start it then switched to a long tapered wedge. You can split any big rounds that way except elm. My Dad would leave stuff like that until Jan. when they were frozen through and popped apart easier. Big stuff like those are hard to pass up but a lot of work.

 

[Jags]

4 pound hammer? You are bringing a knife to a gunfight. You need to be upwards of 8-10 pounds for the sledge/wedge to be effective on that tuff stuff.

 

[Zack R]

Sounds like you are getting a lot of good advice and feedback on this challenge. If it was me personally I'd noodle those rounds into quarters and then split the quarters into smaller pieces with the Fiskars X27 that you mentioned.

If the ground is soft you will be wasting your time trying to split them in place since the energy will be dissipated (as @WoodyIsGoody mentioned). If the rounds are too heavy you'll be killing yourself trying to lift them up onto another round in attempt to split them in place.

If I were nearby I'd noodle them for you in trade for case of beer (or for some of the wood). Your Husqvarna 445 will get the job done but the key is to come from the side of the log with the bark instead of the top. Set the round on its side, brace it with two other rounds if needed and cut downward. Let the saw do the work and angle the back of the saw upward a bit as you go to help expel the chips.

Avoid getting into a situation where you are wearing yourself down just to get these split. Take advantage of the tools and knowledge at your disposal to make it easier. When I'm splitting wood and encounter a really tough one I cast it aside instead of wasting my energy just to get one round apart. Once I have a pile of these aside I noodle them up and call it good.

 

[Destructor]

My brother has a Monster Mall, it is very heavy with a welded steel handle. I occasionally used it. Almost nothing escaped the Monster Mall except maybe a very big round with a huge knot. I don’t know if they still make it but it’s something you don’t want to use all the time. We’d split the really big ones then go back to the regular mall. I almost forgot all about it because I haven’t borrowed it in years.

 

[rawlins02]

4 pound hammer? You are bringing a knife to a gunfight. You need to be upwards of 8-10 pounds for the sledge/wedge to be effective on that tuff stuff.

I'll probably go back to using the back side of the Rockforge maul. But it's so heavy that I typically brace the end of handle under my armpit. Hard to get a good firm strike like that. The wedges just don't penetrate this maple.

 

[rawlins02]

If the ground is soft you will be wasting your time trying to split them in place since the energy will be dissipated (as @WoodyIsGoody mentioned). If the rounds are too heavy you'll be killing yourself trying to lift them up onto another round in attempt to split them in place.

Exactly. I've been killing myself to haul one round up onto another one. My next attempt will be to noodle a few down to where the X27 can finish the job. And I'll be in no hurry. Do a few each week. I'm 53 yo and don't want to get hurt. And too much wood processing gets my hands aching and makes it hard to play guitar!

 

[Zack R]

Exactly. I've been killing myself to haul one round up onto another one. My next attempt will be to noodle a few down to where the X27 can finish the job. And I'll be in no hurry. Do a few each week. I'm 53 yo and don't want to get hurt. And too much wood processing gets my hands aching and makes it hard to play guitar!

One approach you could take is to offer someone half the wood if they split and stack it for you. There's a guy I know locally who offered me half of his log pile if I cut them into rounds, its a win win since he doesn't have the time and we both need the wood.

These tough heavy rounds might end up being more than you want to bite off at the moment. You'll be kicking yourself if you get injured trying to muscle them around or have to beat them into submission with a heavy maul.

 

[Jags]

Ever consider a rental vert/horizontal machine for a day? This might be one of those times that it makes sense.

 

[Woodfarmer1]

I think you’ve spent too much time on here and not enough time swinging the maul. They certainly do not look anywheres near 3 or 4’ wide. Start near the edge and work your way around the rounds.
They will also be easier to split when frozen so I wouldn’t leave them till next spring.

 

[saewoody]

If I were nearby I'd noodle them for you in trade for case of beer (or for some of the wood). Your Husqvarna 445 will get the job done but the key is to come from the side of the log with the bark instead of the top. Set the round on its side, brace it with two other rounds if needed and cut downward. Let the saw do the work and angle the back of the saw upward a bit as you go to help expel the chips.

Best explanation/description of noodling I have ever read. Very clear!



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[gzecc]

If you know an athletic 200lb 25 year old guy, Have him over to split those for you. You need brute force, There's nothing easy about it.

 

[WiscWoody]

Black Friday is coming up, that’s when I bought my 22 ton splitter for $600 and I got 12 months 0% financing for it on their store card. If your going to doing more splitting in the coming years it sure is nice to have around.