So many inserts... only one existing fireplace.

[NateH]

I like the Enviro a lot. Also really starting to fall for the Pacific Energy Alderlea T5 Classic. I feel it has a good BTU output and the classic antique white stove would look great sitting in my black fireplace. I wish I knew how many cubic feet the interior capacity was with this unit... not seeing it on the site.

On another note... how difficult is it to bust out brick? The previous owner closed off the fireplace. Also, do you guys know where and what kind of stone/brick to put down for a base? I don't think I want to go with hearth slab. Something a little different hopefully.

 

[Grisu]

I like the Enviro a lot. Also really starting to fall for the Pacific Energy Alderlea T5 Classic. I feel it has a good BTU output and the classic antique white stove would look great sitting in my black fireplace. I wish I knew how many cubic feet the interior capacity was with this unit... not seeing it on the site.

The same firebox as the PE Super; ~2 cu ft. I heat 1300 sqft of an average insulated house up here in VT with the insert. The T5 may be just enough for your home but going a bit bigger would not be a bad idea unless you don't mind to eventually supplement some heat when it gets really cold.

 

[Ashful]

Removing brick is very easy, if there's nothing backing it up. For the hearth extension, you can buy brick to match what you have (might involve re-claim), or use brick tile (which is what I did):

 

[Dave A.]

Me? I've never been a fan of the cosmetics of the protruding insert. I understand why some folks buy the flush inserts...

Sure, just about everyone likes the looks of the flush front inserts. The problem with them is not just that they don't protrude and allow more radiant heat, it's also that they're limited in depth by the fireplaces they're made to fit so there are few in the 3 cf and larger range and none (that I know of) which can take 16" splits in a NS configuration. There was one a few years ago, the FPX Elite 33 (two door) by Travis which was about 22" deep with a 2.9 cf firebox, but it was discontinued and replaced with something much shallower (and wider so it ends up being over 3 cf but does not allow NS loading).

I suspect that two door Elite 33 was discontinued for "marketing reasons" -- too few fireplaces with a depth that could handle it. Was kind of disappointed when I went looking for my Summit, had recalled that Elite 33 which I always liked the looks of. Even so, knowing what I know now, I think the Summit and others that protrude are better options for a large insert.

Then there's always the option of putting the freestander IN the fireplace, if the box is big enough.

"Big enough" that's the catch, especially for fireplaces with lower lintels. Then only the freestanders which can be used without legs will work. And those seem to be limited to the freestanding/inserts, like the Bucks, some from Travis's, Appalachian, and a few others.

 

[kingquad]

With 1500 sq ft., I'd go with the Enviro over the T5. You'll be happy with the extra firepower in the middle of winter. Personally, my burn times were better than what the Super/T5 users are posting here too.

Have you looked at the Hampton i300? Same firebox as the Regency i2400. Proven design. Built like a tank.

 

[NateH]

Kingquad, I love the Hampton i300... nice looking insert, projects into the room, and looks like it would keep me nice and toasty during the cold winter months. You mentioned the T5 not having quite the firepower that the Hampton or Enviro has... but others are in favor of the freestanding stoves, telling me I'll get more heat from them. Then another guy (I think Browningbar) told me the Jotul is a great heater with a good dose of overkill. But the Jotul 550 is pretty much flush, so is the 550 the exception or are some inserts also great heaters?

I guess an important question to ask is, what are the burn times on some of these inserts/stoves I'm looking into? As opposed to just having the largest viewing area with a nice classic look...

1) Jotul 550 and some of the Jotul freestanders 2) Alderlea T5 and or T6 3) Hampton i300 4) Harman 300i, although the downdraft system has me skeptical. I guess any others that you guys think I should get.

Honestly I wish I could trial run all of them and go with the best damn heater!

 

[begreen]

There is no Alderlea T6 insert. Are you now considering freestanding stoves? If yes, will you be putting in a new chimney? If not, that will restrict the list to those that fit on the hearth and are rear vented unless the intent is to poke a hole above for a top-vented flue stove.

 

[NateH]

I was under the impression that most freestanders would work if I tucked it into the hearth... I could be wrong but it looked like some of the pics in the gallery on this site have a similar setup. But, yeah, feel free to educate me if I'm mistaken. Or maybe a bit naive

 

[BrotherBart]

Most free standing stoves won't fit into a fireplace. I have one in mine but it is a tight fit. And inserts have the blower on the front so you can clean the crud out of it. With a free standing stove the blower is buried in the back and you have to remove the stove to even just vacuum it out. Mine is dead back there and will stay dead back there.

 

[Grisu]

I was under the impression that most freestanders would work if I tucked it into the hearth... I could be wrong but it looked like some of the pics in the gallery on this site have a similar setup. But, yeah, feel free to educate me if I'm mistaken. Or maybe a bit naive

It all depends how big is your fireplace (especially height) and your hearth. Some stoves have a rear-venting option (e. g. Jotul, Woodstock) so you could run the pipe under the lintel and then up the chimney. But even then I think you need about 28" height in your fireplace opening. Check the manuals.

 

[begreen]

More like 30" or more for a lot of stoves.

Stick with the plan man. The Hampton or the Enviro insert should make for a happy wife and some good heat.

 

[Grisu]

I remembered the 28" from the Jotul Oslo but just found out it can be even less:
"The Jøtul F 500 has a rear exit flue collar height of 28 1/4” (718 mm) when installed with standard legs. Substitution of Short Legs will lower the height to 26” (660 mm)."

To the OP: A freestander can be cheaper (no surround, no necessarily a blower) and will perform better during a power outage. The WAF may not be as high and usually the hearth will need to be extended to get the required clearances. The selection is also pretty limited unless your fireplace is really big that you are able to slide a top-vent stove fully in there.

 

[Ashful]

Most free standing stoves won't fit into a fireplace.

Let me fix that sentence for you, Bart. All of the words are there, but you got the order wrong.

"A free standing stove won't fit into most fireplaces."

I really like Nick Mystic's rig. If I had a smaller fireplace, that's the direction I'd be going.

 

[robertmcw]

I have using an Olympic Insert for 4 years and I have a 1200 sq. ft. house and it works just fine. I think the better practice is to get the stove to fit the hole and get the biggest one that will fit. You can make smaller fires. If I needed a backup power, I would just get a Harbor Freight two cycle $100.00 on sale unit and keep it in the garage until needed.


Robert

 

[kingquad]

NateH,

What are your fireplace dimensions?

 

[NateH]

Hey guys,

dimensions:

width: 26" and narrows down to 17"
Height: 25"
Depth: 12" (this is what worries me)

My plan is to remove brick all around giving me new dimensions of 34" width, 32" height, and 26" depth... if that can all be done.

 

[NateH]

Not exactly an ideal situation and I've never done this before, so I have some doubts, but... I need to do it to fit anything in there.

 

[NateH]

Hope this works. Hard to see because the fireplace is black

 

[begreen]

That is a super shallow and small fireplace. You are not going to fit an insert in there.

Are you sure you can remove the brick? It can't be removed arbitrarily. There is structure and heat blocking that needs to be honored.

There should be a lintel that is supporting the front face. It may show as a metal angle lip under the front face brick. Do you see one at the 25" height?

 

[begreen]

I'm wondering if you would be better off with a full hearth extension and setting a top venting stove in front of this fireplace. This would require going up 2-3 ft and then tapping into the chimney above the damper. The liner would come down to a tee at this thimble hole and connect to the stove there. The bottom of the tee could be extended to below the damper and capped to make cleaning easier. Otherwise that low opening is going to be a challenge to find a rear-vent stove with a flue that low.


Can you show a shot from further back showing the full wall, mantel and any other nearby woodwork?

 

[NateH]

 

[NateH]

Maybe I'm just stupid... but I measured outside and then inside and am coming up with more than 30" of space, and from the inside, the chimney is only 12" deep. I was under the impression that it was closed off at some point. Perhaps, I'm wrong about that, and then it changes everything and all of my plans.. and if you look up at the lintel it is mortared over partially along with the old damper...

 

[Dave A.]

Looks like it was never a fireplace for wood burning, just coal, unless it was closed in at some point. Age of the house would be a clue. But chimney size should be a concern, that needs to be determined.

 

[NateH]

House was built in 1942.

I'm getting frustrated. I stubbornly thought this would be a straight fix, but now am thinking it's not going to happen... and doubting things. How stupid am I for not figuring this was a coal fireplace...

 

[begreen]

Agreed this looks like a coal fireplace, right down to the coal black color. Nice looking house there Nate. How old is it?

I would get a mason in. A pro can raise the lintel for you. That would provide clearance for a freestanding, rear-exit stove. Most rear exit stoves are going to need 25-27" clearance for the connector to the flue outlet so you are not that far off. But the larger the stove the higher the flue outlet generally. There are some exceptions and I'm starting to think that a Woodstove Progress Hybrid should be considered for here. With the short leg kit and no ash pan the top of the flue outlet is just 25.75".