Sounds like wet wood to me or possibly weak draft but i would rule out wood before doing anything else. Try the blocks and see how they workWell, maybe i'm expecting the wrong thing, I do know any changes I make take awhile, so change only one thing and wait.
The only way I have to check temps is with a magnetic temp gauge. However, i'm not sure it's working correctly. I had it on the connector pipe, about 18" above the stove.
Running smoothly I suppose is wood inside, with some amount of steady flame coming off it. I'm guessing about half or more of the area? More than just getting going, but not necessarily the whole stove just packed with active flames. Is this correct?
When I say I add a good sized piece and it stops running smoothly, I put in a large piece, or two, and of course the fire will die down if I have active flames, but they either come back a little, or don't come back at all. Changing the air has no effect. Cracking open the door will bring it back, but no matter how hot the stove feels, or how much heat is rolling off it, closing the door will kill it back down. It will go all the way until it just glows red around the edges, and slowly turns to ash, and very little heat coming off the stove. If I put in smaller pieces, this will happen, but cracking open the door will bring it back, and after long enough, I can fully close it.
This is loading onto actively burning pieces, to load on coals, I need about a 2" deep, bright red bed to get anything going, and often will have to crack the door open for awhile.
Single vs double wall flue pipe
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Sounds like wet wood to me or possibly weak draft but i would rule out wood before doing anything else. Try the blocks and see how they work
Actually it’s not the getting lit part I struggle with, it’s the not overfire part and adjustments as such. I can put two pieces of wood in a cleaned box and get that thing roaring to over 750 on the top of the stove. One time I got the top to 950! Of course I’ve learned a lot since then, but my situation is more about keeping a steady 400-600 without messing with it too much.
My wood is 3 years old though. I’ve burnt through most of my 16-18 inch pieces, so I’ve been laying one long piece diagonal and up on one in to fit, with another crossed over it. I can’t wait until next year with all 16 inch logs and full loads.
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You may need to cut back air sooner before reaching such high temps . Next time stove is cool double check all gaskets use a dollar bill and check the entire perimeter of door ( bill should have good resistance in all areas , if it slides too easily replace gaskets sometimes they harden prematurely)
Not fully seasoned wood will burn exactly as you’ve described , igniting with no problem but than encounters moisture deeper into the split , large pieces cause more of an issue
That’s a good test, thanks. It’s a “new” stove, although it was a floor model, so I’m game to test anything with it.
My first fail was not knowing it was supposed to have a baffle board and blanket hahaha Oops [emoji51]
My second mistake was not closing the latch all the way.
I’m not sure my third mistake yet.
I have since learned to tame the fire down earlier. My overfire was on my 2nd or 3rd fire. Oh, I’ve also learned the top down thing, which works! I’ve also learned North/South works well too, but much of my wood was cut too long. It was free wood though...
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OK, then, i'll try the blocks. I guess you get some coals, and then load them?
One, two, or three?
The stove is an Englander nc-13, it has a 1.8cuft firebox, iirc. It is an epa stove.
Might be a few days, we got this warm/cold/warm/cold thing going.
So, it i'm guessing it wouldn't hurt to split some of the larger pieces down further.
One, two, or three?
The stove is an Englander nc-13, it has a 1.8cuft firebox, iirc. It is an epa stove.
Might be a few days, we got this warm/cold/warm/cold thing going.
So, it i'm guessing it wouldn't hurt to split some of the larger pieces down further.
The compressed logs I’ve used say only 3 at 1 time , read your packaging it will tell you ( I did try 4 once ) I won’t do that again
I'll look. Maybe i'll start with 2. It's easier to add more than take one away.
So, I picked up an ir laser thermometer and moisture meter.
Been warmer lately, and was out of town a few days, so no fire for awhile. Gonna be somewhat cooler overnight these next few days. Going to try the few bio bricks I have.
Just on a whim, I went out and stuck the moisture meter into the end of a piece out by the back door. It's on the porch, under a roof. But, the wind blows a considerable amount of the time, and it rains either every day, or every few days the last couple months, and it will blow onto this wood.
I checked it on the vertical end, the end that catches the wind. It rained yesterday, into the night.
20%.
The opposite end of the same piece, little wind, no rain except what might run down from off the top.
19%.
Checked a piece that's been in the house next to the stove for 2-3 weeks. Close enough to get warm, not hot. Stove has run probably 2, maybe 3 evenings. Came from the same lot as the outside piece.
End away from stove, 7%, pretty much anywhere I stick it.
End near the stove, it depends. Out near the edges, 0, sometimes around 6%, depends on how deep I can get the points. At the center, 7%, as long as I get the points into the wood at all.
I went out to where there's more stacked out in the wind, but positioned to get pretty much no rain. Both ends of a random piece show 18%.
Went in the shed, little wind, no rain, both ends of a random piece show 16%.
I've had this wood about 1 1/2 months now.
On a whim, I did the same test to one of the several yr old pieces on the porch, gets wind, but will get wind blown rain also. It showed 16%. This is the stuff that lights right up, and burns readily. I usually start with a few of these, then transition to the newer stuff once the stove is hot.
I stuck it in one of the bio bricks, 3 different places, all 0. I figure that tells me the meter works.
Been warmer lately, and was out of town a few days, so no fire for awhile. Gonna be somewhat cooler overnight these next few days. Going to try the few bio bricks I have.
Just on a whim, I went out and stuck the moisture meter into the end of a piece out by the back door. It's on the porch, under a roof. But, the wind blows a considerable amount of the time, and it rains either every day, or every few days the last couple months, and it will blow onto this wood.
I checked it on the vertical end, the end that catches the wind. It rained yesterday, into the night.
20%.
The opposite end of the same piece, little wind, no rain except what might run down from off the top.
19%.
Checked a piece that's been in the house next to the stove for 2-3 weeks. Close enough to get warm, not hot. Stove has run probably 2, maybe 3 evenings. Came from the same lot as the outside piece.
End away from stove, 7%, pretty much anywhere I stick it.
End near the stove, it depends. Out near the edges, 0, sometimes around 6%, depends on how deep I can get the points. At the center, 7%, as long as I get the points into the wood at all.
I went out to where there's more stacked out in the wind, but positioned to get pretty much no rain. Both ends of a random piece show 18%.
Went in the shed, little wind, no rain, both ends of a random piece show 16%.
I've had this wood about 1 1/2 months now.
On a whim, I did the same test to one of the several yr old pieces on the porch, gets wind, but will get wind blown rain also. It showed 16%. This is the stuff that lights right up, and burns readily. I usually start with a few of these, then transition to the newer stuff once the stove is hot.
I stuck it in one of the bio bricks, 3 different places, all 0. I figure that tells me the meter works.
maple1
Minister of Fire
In order to get somewhat accurate readings, you need to split the wood & measure on the freshly split surface.
At room temp. So if it's stuff that is outdoors now, you'd bring it in, let it warm up a couple days, then split & measure.
At room temp. So if it's stuff that is outdoors now, you'd bring it in, let it warm up a couple days, then split & measure.
What kind of wood - Pine? 6-7% that is super dry 16-18% that's a good range , but as was stated need to test room temp in the internal middle of a split for a truer reading. Nc13 and NC30 really like fuel in the 15-18% range- become heat monsters. but you do need to cut back the air some as soon as the secondaries start or a bit before
OK.
Well, I decided to try and split a couple pieces, to get an internal reading. Not really equipped for it, but got a piece from inside, and from the porch. It's cold, so I guess that one shouldn't be counted.
The inside piece meters at anywhere from 30-35%, checked at several spots from both sides.
Well, I decided to try and split a couple pieces, to get an internal reading. Not really equipped for it, but got a piece from inside, and from the porch. It's cold, so I guess that one shouldn't be counted.
The inside piece meters at anywhere from 30-35%, checked at several spots from both sides.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Sounds like it's really wet.
Also another thing about meters, I think I have read, is that they lose accuracy as the readings are higher. Yours are pretty high, so it could even be higher.
I reckon i'll just skip the whole flue qustion until the wood problem is solved. Done enough troubleshooting to know you fix the obvious first.
I've asked around, the place I got this wood is pretty much it. They didn't have any seasoned, said they rarely do. There is a sign out in front of one place, says seasoned, I think seasoned oak. However, everyone around here that has said anything considers seasoned 1yr. It wasn't until I came here that I heard anything saying 1 1/2 to 2yrs, or more. Considering how much rain normally falls yearly, and how humid the summers are, and what i've read here, I don't see how anything less than 2yrs would be well seasoned, unless it was split down pretty small. What I got, from almost the only local source, probably 1/4 or more of it won't even go in the stove.
I split again several days worth, using what's been in the house several weeks, and put it back inside.i have one of those kindling cracker things you put a piece in and hit it with a hammer. Most won't go in it, I cut the top ring off. Not the most efficient way, but it's what I have right now. Our season is mostly over, but sometimes some late cold shows up, we'll see.
It's been a learning winter, for sure. At least I have a plan now. As soon as I can, i'll get wood storage set up for at least a winter, and fill it up. Before next winter, i'll get bio bricks enough for a winter. Then, next year, i'll expand the wood storage to include a second winter, and fill that. That way, the wet wood gotten this year gets 2yrs to season. Refill that the following yr, burn the next pile. I'll always be burning 2yr seasoned. Ideally, i'll get a 3rd winter's worth put up, and be burning 3yr seasoned, or even 4yrs. If a winter gets especially bad, or something else happens, i'll have a buffer.
I might at some point work to make wood the primary heat, the electric secondary. After a couple yrs, i'll have a database of electric and wood costs, and then make a choice.
I do greatly appreciate the help i've gotten here.
I've asked around, the place I got this wood is pretty much it. They didn't have any seasoned, said they rarely do. There is a sign out in front of one place, says seasoned, I think seasoned oak. However, everyone around here that has said anything considers seasoned 1yr. It wasn't until I came here that I heard anything saying 1 1/2 to 2yrs, or more. Considering how much rain normally falls yearly, and how humid the summers are, and what i've read here, I don't see how anything less than 2yrs would be well seasoned, unless it was split down pretty small. What I got, from almost the only local source, probably 1/4 or more of it won't even go in the stove.
I split again several days worth, using what's been in the house several weeks, and put it back inside.i have one of those kindling cracker things you put a piece in and hit it with a hammer. Most won't go in it, I cut the top ring off. Not the most efficient way, but it's what I have right now. Our season is mostly over, but sometimes some late cold shows up, we'll see.
It's been a learning winter, for sure. At least I have a plan now. As soon as I can, i'll get wood storage set up for at least a winter, and fill it up. Before next winter, i'll get bio bricks enough for a winter. Then, next year, i'll expand the wood storage to include a second winter, and fill that. That way, the wet wood gotten this year gets 2yrs to season. Refill that the following yr, burn the next pile. I'll always be burning 2yr seasoned. Ideally, i'll get a 3rd winter's worth put up, and be burning 3yr seasoned, or even 4yrs. If a winter gets especially bad, or something else happens, i'll have a buffer.
I might at some point work to make wood the primary heat, the electric secondary. After a couple yrs, i'll have a database of electric and wood costs, and then make a choice.
I do greatly appreciate the help i've gotten here.
maple1
Minister of Fire
I'm pretty sure that most all wood sellers, if they say anything about their wood being seasoned, count seasoning as starting from when the tree was dropped.
When in reality it really doesn't start seasoning until the wood is cut and split. Which most who do any volume don't do until just before they deliver, since they conveyor it off the splitter right to their delivery truck - and there could be a year or more between when the tree was dropped, and when it eventually got split.
(There might be exceptions, but that's how sellers I know around here do things. Which would be fine if buyers knew this and had the ability & space to get & stay a couple years ahead on CSS wood on hand....)
When in reality it really doesn't start seasoning until the wood is cut and split. Which most who do any volume don't do until just before they deliver, since they conveyor it off the splitter right to their delivery truck - and there could be a year or more between when the tree was dropped, and when it eventually got split.
(There might be exceptions, but that's how sellers I know around here do things. Which would be fine if buyers knew this and had the ability & space to get & stay a couple years ahead on CSS wood on hand....)
Well, splitting the wet wood down again made a world of difference. I got a good burn going, even with the air almost closed. It's burning steadily, but not blazing the wood to ash nearly in an instant. Before, I had to keep the air up high to keep it burning.
With the ir thermometer, I got flue temps in the mid 300s, and stove top temps in the low 500s. Air is almost closed. I can add a couple pieces and not do any changes, whereas before, i'd have to only add one piece at a time, and open the air up to get it going.
With the ir thermometer, I got flue temps in the mid 300s, and stove top temps in the low 500s. Air is almost closed. I can add a couple pieces and not do any changes, whereas before, i'd have to only add one piece at a time, and open the air up to get it going.
You’ll have a much easier time next year now that you know a out and can test for moisture , re splitting will always help wood dry faster or burn when you are in a jam As for purchasing wood you can count on it not being ready to burn .
The smaller splits burned better, and I got the same heat with less wood burned. I was also able to turn the air way down, so I wasn't feeding it every hour or so.
Got heat almost through the night, still had enough coals to throw a couple pieces in, they lit in about 5 min, let them get going good, tossed in another, went to bed.
I'll be out splitting down more of it, that's for sure.
Got heat almost through the night, still had enough coals to throw a couple pieces in, they lit in about 5 min, let them get going good, tossed in another, went to bed.
I'll be out splitting down more of it, that's for sure.
Seasoned Oak
Minister of Fire
I just built a new masonry flue lined chimney but if i had to do it over i think i would have went with a stainless double wall insulated. Probably about the same cost wise but it takes awhile to warm up a few ton of masonry. Especially in shoulder season when draft is weak. Plus single wall pipe radiates a ton of heat,my (SW) pipe is 450 -500 (surface temp) out the top of the stove and between 100 and 150 where it goes into the masonry chimney. Thats a lot of heat shed in 6 feet of pipe, probably too much.
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That is Oak...very wet oak...keep a very close eye on your chimney and keep it cleaned!
Will do. This winter has been pretty mild, actually, and, it's mostly over.
Is it better to have the chimney professionally cleaned, or diy?
Is one of those cleaner logs a good idea?
Is it better to have the chimney professionally cleaned, or diy?
Is one of those cleaner logs a good idea?
If you know how to clean the chimney properly and how to service the stove you can certainly do it yourself. If not pay someone. And no need for chemical cleaners.
Well, I don't know now, but i've learned plenty over the years, another thing is not a problem.
Suggestions on where to learn this?
I guess YouTube, but I already know there are both knowledgeable people, and idiots on there.
Suggestions on where to learn this?
I guess YouTube, but I already know there are both knowledgeable people, and idiots on there.
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