I have a few questions that I hope you folks won't mind addressing.
First, Izzyq, I am wondering if the comments made here by so many have been helpful to you? Have you made a decision? This week, as temps have fallen in Pennsylvania, I have had the opportunity to burn wood in the "Manny," as Woody Stover calls it. I've been thinking about posting a short video of the Manny in action. You and others might find that helpful. I'm thinking of focusing on the re-burn and what smoke there is out the chimney. When I first wrote to you, I explained what I think are some pros/cons about the Manny. I can add another con: too much smoke escapes out of the front door when opened for reloading. The manual states, "When opening the front door to reload or rearrange logs, it is advisable to open the door just a crack, pause for a moment then open the door completely....In addition, reloading on a bed of hot, red coals reduces smoking time..." I have found that the operative word in all of this is the word, "reduces." Yes, following this method "reduces smoking time," but it doesn't eliminate the smoking time. I don't want to see any smoke escape. I haven't been able to open the door without smoke escaping into my living room. That rarely happened with that old steel construction Haughs stove I inherited from my grandparents. I can say that I don't see that problem when I open the side door. Guess which one I try not to use
Second, Brother Bart, you say, "an iron stove will need to be a rebuilt around ten years, burned correctly." What do the words "burned correctly" mean? I guess this ultimately gets back to that issue of over-firing. No where can I find what that actually means. The nebulous sentence in the manual that reads, "Over-firing means the stove is operating at temperatures above normal temperatures," is about as helpful as is your sentence. I can't ask the writers of the Manchester manual to explain what "normal temperatures" are, but I can ask what you mean by "burned correctly." Please explain.
Third, D8Chumley, you say in reference to the placement of a thermometer, "The manual suggested no more than a foot" (from the top of the stove?) Where, what page does it say that? I can't find any reference to where to place a thermometer. Perhaps you can help. Where are you measuring the temperature of the stove?
Fourth, PYRO, alias Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar, thanks for supplying those pictures of the top of the Manchester. I could place a thermometer there on the top of the stove under the convective top, but at this point that wouldn't be easy. How'd you get that convective top off? And perhaps you can help me figure out how to get that back plate off too. (not that I want to remove it permanently, but when it comes to moving this 515 pound beast, I could remove those pieces in addition to the 50 lbs of soapstone lining to lighten up the load. Izzyq might like to know how to do this too, especially if she is moving it herself. This brings me to my last question. Have you taken the Manchester apart? Perhaps you would have a very clear idea of how this stove is constructed. I still want to know what I am up against in terms of the short-term and long-term maintenance of this stove. Changing the three door gaskets is one thing: resealing all the many internal joints is another. The manual only mentions replacing the door gaskets, but says nothing about the internal joints that apparently will also need to be reconstructed at some point during its lifetime (10-15-20-more yrs?) of service.
Thanks in advance for your assistance with these questions.
I purchased the manchester wood stove and have nothing with problems. I bought the stove in Oct of 2013 and it broke in November of 2013. I called for a warranty repair in Dec 2013 and and still waiting for repair in Feb of 2014. There is a problem with the metal plate on the side loading door that causes it to warp out of shape. In addition to that the hinge assembly also is faulty as the door falls off and chips that enamel finish. In my opinion, hearthstone is not a reputable company to purchase from since they do not service their products and rely solely on the dealers to fix them. I am still waiting for a fix and have filed a small claims suit to replace the stove since the dealer tapped the body and used the wrong thread insert on the stove. Now the lower dorr does not seal at all. In short, having to wait three months to get your stove fixed under warranty is not what you want to deal with. Also, my stove was missing parts from the factory as the technician pointed out to me.OK went and saw the Hearthstone Heritage and Manchester-WOW! Beautiful stoves. Nothing like the old VC my parents had when we grew up.
I really liked both (although they have a different look and feel to them) but we are leaning towards the Manchester. I know they are only on the market about a year but I was hoping someone here had some real life experience burning one. Just looking for any thoughts or problems (or raves! LOL)
Sounds like loctite may be needed here?One thing I did notice recently as I was cleaning out the firebox and sweeping some ash...the aforementioned bolt on the door side, the nut was really loose. I actually think that I might have loosened it with the brush. Anyhow, tighted it back up and didn't think much of it. Just thought that I might need to check those more often.
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Curiousity here since I'm researching stoves for my next house . . . can you put a small slab of soap stone on top or inside of a woodstove that isn't soapstone and let that heat up during a burn to later radiate that heat? When I was in my Sister's house (may she RIP), they used to just put logs in and I never saw a thermometer . . . guess I have a lot to learn and your thoughts on the soapstone slab would be appreciated.
I think some of the issues are directly related to the person building the stove. I have a hearthstone shelburne. I just replaced the ceramic baffles and had to remove the top to do it. One of the 4 bolts was cross threaded when it was originally installed. It snapped when I tried to remove it. I had to drill and retap with the next larger size bolt to get it back together. The casting had a slight flaw(small protrusion)and and you could tell it would have been impossible to put the bolt in straight. It took me less than a minute with a hand file to file it so the bolt could go in straight. I am a little disappointed the original assembler put the bolt in crooked and called it good enough instead of taking 60 seconds to file the metal to get it to go in straight.
Besides the build issues, it's a great stove. I am very happy with it. It heats well and looks good.
Sorry to say, I'd have a hard time recommending one too. I've been waiting over 6 months now for a lower air inlet, and the Hearthstone won't even return my emails. The dealer I ordered the part through says Hearthstone claims they shipped it but can't show delivery.If they don't step up, I'd have a hard time recommending the stove to a buddy of mine who's been thinking about putting one in.
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